7 Heritage Monuments. 5 States. 1 Challenge

The first day we visited the Ellora caves. The caves were a beautiful sight and instantly take you back in time. With our tickets we started off to see a few of 32 caves that our predecessors from various beliefs have left behind for us. The first cave we visited was a Buddhist chaitya with Buddha in a teaching pose and a backdrop of stupa. After the chaitya we visited another cave that was a vihar or the dwelling area for the Buddhist monks. The austerity of these is quite shocking. Each small chamber is furnished with a stone bed complete with a stone pillow. Everything felt to be a size smaller than required; well I don’t know they might not have been tall. Day two of Aurangabad, I was excited to visit the Ajanta caves. The first cave we visited (cave1) is the one which houses all the paintings that we know from Ajanta. Dimly lit and crowded the cave is still a sight to behold. After a few more caves which depicted jataka kathas and beautiful scenes along with birth of Buddha and Buddha meeting his wife and son we were left to our own means. We came across a cave which was perhaps just started by the artists. As an architect it always fascinates us to just see the perseverance and dedication people have put into various monuments and heritage sites you find across India. It was evident how they went about excavating with narrow corridors cut in and large mass of rock with starting of a vihara chamber. This was perhaps the most interesting cave we came across.

These are an example of rock cut architecture which many would relate to the Ellora caves of Aurangabad. The monuments are scattered around in the city. you can either hire an auto-rickshaw or walk as we did. You should start with Arjuna’s penance as it is called. It is a park like comples with many viharas which would catch your attention. It also houses Krishna’s butter ball the precariously balanced rock. The toilets here were really clean and it is the right place if you need to freshen up. We couldn’t find any other place in our km or so long walk to reach the complex. We took newspaper pics and started for the five rathas.

Already on a visit to my home town of Jaipur I thought the time is right to sneak in a visit to Jantar Mantar. We bought our Rs 40/- ticket each, which both of us thought was a bit too much. As we entered there was a beautiful sight of mathematical precision and exemplary engineering awaiting. These instrument most of which we could not even understand have been here for around 150-200 years are a beautiful sight to behold, especially for someone who likes neat lines. Extremely humbled we went on to see the marvellous sight of the shadow moving on the virat samrat yantra or the bigger sun dial. The movement of shadow was quite perceivable in a few minutes. It must’ve made reading time fun.

It was thirty minutes in the rickety bus before I saw the first glimpse of a temple; it was the Jain temple of Pattadakal which stands separate from the others. We scrambled to the front of the bus and were told to get down after a few minutes. I have to admit even though I love all things history and am an architect I had no clue what this town (village?) has when I saw it on Gounesco list. This tiny point on the map has one of the most beautiful temple complexes of India. The complex carries a lot of relevance for temple architecture being the first place where beehive shikhara was used (Nagar style). Along with some major temples like Virupaksha Temple, Sangameshvara Temple and Galganatha temple there are numerous shrines which house varying sized of shiva-ling. Each of these are complimented by an idol of nandi lord shiva’s steed at the same scale. What was interesting was there were few shrines which had a lion instead of nandi. Old Kannada inscription in various styles were something which will attract you to inspect the rock panel at Sangameshwara temple closely. The inscription is quite crisp, we couldn’t read it as we know nothing about Kannada. Few of the temples are still used for worship and aarti was going on as we arrived. It was a bit odd to think that you had to buy a ticket to see the lord. Huge black nandi statue with worshippers around will definitely grab your attention that is the Viruprakhsa temple. Kailasha temple at Ellora was built on its model. I am still in awe of the Kailasha temple and it was exciting to see the model on which it was based.

People would recommend that you at least spend a week when you visit Hampi. If not a week three days are in order to see the city which probably has more monuments than you can count on your fingers. We all know how much time we can squeeze out of office and not many people would like to accompany you to visit heritage sites. If we had three days we'd better head to beach right? The good news is you can visit the city in one day and not loose out on its heritage and charm. With all our heritage visits crammed into two day weekends in a month we didn't have much time. A not to be missed place here is the Courtesan Street. Spread over half a kilometer this 50 meter wide street leads to the Achyutraya temple. A beautiful temple in its own might the street with its pavilions on both sides present a beautiful picture. Though the bazaar next to Krishna temple reminds you of some history movie which brings all things old to life; this one fills you with imagery of your own. If you walk along the street you will definitely feel that the quiet holds a vibrant street in its belly. Something which maybe miraculously comes to life in nights. The street is said to have had shops selling all things glittery. There is no mention of the ladies who must have given the street its famous name of sulai bazaar . Wouldn't it be really nice if we could experience the vibrant street with all its opulence.

Most of these sites are quite well known and were a part of our coursework in college. The one which wasn't and excited me the most is the caves of Bhimbetika. These caves are a site of prehistoric settlement and will definitely take you back in time. Most of the world heritage sites in MP are well developed and look like they are being taken care of. This one in particular is some 40 Km from Bhopal and if you think its easy to get to the site think again. We took a bus to Obaidullahgunj which was quite quick and got us there in under an hour. Then we waited, waited some more and finally hitched a paid ride on a school auto which cost us 10 bucks each. It said Bhimbetika and we thought we are there. It was a mistake. The road to Bhimbetika is actually a hike to the hill top. Yes the hill you see rising before you. Carry a lot of water and if someone offers a lift take it. Swallow your pride don't think about the 100/- he is charging just take it. Yes we did not. Th path in itself is really confusing, you want every hairpin turn to be the last but it isn't unless you see a desolate hut. All of this is after you have already bought the ticket and expect the caves to be a few steps ahead.

The fairer sex has been celebrated in all civilizations of the past. Indian heritage presents them in all their glory and beauty. Khajuraho known for its erotic sculptures and suggestive facades relies heavily on various faces of a woman. The women of Khajuraho take care about how they dress and are seen wearing angavastram and light flimsy drapes. This would make sense to you once you experience hot climate this region experiences. If you thought they care about their clothes and jewellery's you would love to see how much they cared about makeup. There are many sculptures that show them applying kohl to their eyes and looking in the mirror while putting sindoor. The sculptors recognized woman's power of progeny and destruction.