My tryst with Naples and the various other places I was fortunate enough to visit, was like a festival. It was akin to a celebration of all the senses that us mortals possess. You see a perfect blend of art and history, of stunningly gorgeous locals and colourful food - saffron, crimson, amber, green, black and ivory interspersed with sharp noses and blue eyes. You hear voices that are so distant, so alien, yet so familiar- from the clinking of glasses and cutlery to the many conversations that you cannot help but eavesdrop on. The aroma of tomatoes, garlic, lemon, parsley, oregano, cheese, wine, coffee and chocolate is irresistible on so many levels that it is impossible to put into words. And when you taste them, you are transported to your own idea of a heaven, a utopian fantasy- the creaminess, the sourness, the sweetness and the crunchiness creating a perfect balance. And when you touch the stone walls that once held a bustling populace, that once gave shelter to people who laughed, wept, loved and lived, nothing can stop that strange haunting feeling from taking over your system. Capri made me want to get used to all the luxuries that life can afford and Pompeii made me realize the impermanence of the same. Vesuvius was an exemplification of how nature still has the upper hand and Naples was a party that never seemed to end.
Top Tip: When in Naples, you should not mind waiting in line to get a table at this crowded pizzeria called 'Gino Sorbillo' (Via Dei Tribunali). This place announces your name over a microphone in order to let you know that you can come in and it only has 20 different kinds of pizza on the menu along with one dessert and their house wine. The servers expect you to order quickly (with their Pizza Marinaras being bestsellers) and no tips are expected. It is like an Udipi joint, only Italian and is totally worth your time and money.
I must add that my four day tryst also helped me strengthen my sixth sense which probably is the most important because wherever you go, whatever you do, the pickpockets will be right there watching you.
Naples is like a maze- a maze of cobbled streets peppered here and there with churches, restaurants, wine bars and tiny supermarkets. From never ending piazzas to the narrowest of alleyways coupled with art, history and a thriving food scene, this city has so much character to it that it could easily give Paris a run for its money. The locals are young, beautiful and full of energy and the pride they take in their cuisine is unparalleled, and rightly so. This probably could account for the numerous Pizza Marinaras and Pizza Margheritas one could easily gulp down without any sense of guilt whatsoever. Their Centro Storico is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is extremely difficult to keep track of the museums one can see because there are so many. Yet, you never get tired and neither do the pickpockets circling most of the city, so watch out! Getting there:
You could take an InterCity/Regionale train from Rome and the ride is a little over an hour. Booking in advance on the Trenitalia website is a good idea. InterCity trains are faster and (Around 25 Euros one way) will give you reserved seats unlike their Regionale counterparts (11 Euros one way). For Regionale trains, make sure to validate your ticket on the several validation machines at the station just before you board the train. Must See:
Make sure you see Giuseppe Sanmartino's Veiled Christ (Cristo Velato) at the Cappella Sansevero near Dante. The marble veil over Christ is so intricate, so realistic that you almost want to lift it and fold it like an actual cloth. The wonderfully preserved human arterial systems on the lower floor are also worth seeing, although a little too macabre. Entry to the Chapel is 7 Euros per person and photography is absolutely prohibited.
The only active and severely destructive volcano in Europe, Mount Vesuvius stands tall at 1281 metres. Having erupted several times and destroying the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum on one occasion, Vesuvius could well pour its wrath yet again on the thousands of people living around its crater. Walking 900 metres up to the apex could be long and strenuous and the winds could aggravate your troubles, so do go prepared with jackets, bottles of water and walking shoes. Additionally, go only if you are really interested in looking at the crater as there is nothing exceptionally special about the destination, the prices are a little too high and the guides meet you for a minute and give you lesser information than brochures available at tourist offices. You can however expect great views of the bay of Naples from the top. If that wasn't enough of a redeeming factor, I still have fragments of Mount Vesuvius inside my shoes. Getting there: Circumvesuviana trains run from the Naples Central Station to Pompei Scavi-Villa Dei Misteri and the ride is around 40 minutes. You might not get a seat in the train so beware of pickpockets. You have to shell out around 6 Euros for a two way journey and it is a good idea to start a little early in the afternoon.
Tickets for Vesuvius are available at the Pompei Scavi train station itself and come for around 20 Euros, inclusive of everything. Buses run every 40 minutes right outside the station and take you to the entrance of the Vesuvius National park where you are transferred into a 4WD style bus which drops you 900 metres below the crater and you are given 90 minutes to complete the trek. Expect a super bumpy but thrilling ride. The last ride is at 4 pm for most of the year, so do keep track of your time.
"And the walls kept tumbling down on the city that we love
Grey clouds roll over the hills bringing darkness from above
But if you close your eyes, does it almost feel like nothing changed at all?"
-Pompeii, Bastille These words by the British band 'Bastille' accurately describe what must have gone through the minds of those dying while buried under several layers of lapilli as Mount Vesuvius erupted on the 24th of August, AD 79, leaving a ghost town of what once used to be a thriving settlement. The ruins of the city, replete with its temples, forums, public baths, markets, theatres and even brothels for that matter are captivating. Taking a guided tour from the station itself is a great idea because the audio guides that are available at the ticketing counter for around 7 Euros aren't of much help owing to the fact that the numbers on the map do not correspond with the numbers on the ruins. Avoiding this ambiguity is imperative because there is a lot of walking involved anyway. Keep yourself hydrated. Getting there: Pompeii and Vesuvius share the same train station with Pompeii being right across. Circumvesuviana trains run from the Naples Central Station to Pompei Scavi-Villa Dei Misteri and the ride is around 40 minutes. You might not get a seat in the train so beware of pickpockets. You have to shell out around 6 Euros for a two way journey and it is a good idea to start a little early in the afternoon. Tickets for Pompeii are available at the entrance 'Porta Marina' which is next to the station and come for 11 Euros for an adult. If you are visiting during the summer, the closing time is 7:30pm and 5:00pm for winters. It is advisable to see Vesuvius and Pompeii together by spending the first half of the day exploring Vesuvius and devoting the second half to Pompeii.
When one thinks of Capri, images of pristine white structures standing over an expanse of royal blue water come to mind immediately. And then of course, there are the massively popular Capri pants that we just can't seem to get enough of, no matter how much of a fashion faux pas they happen to be. The town and its lesser known sister 'Anacapri' illustrate luxury in ways like no other. Dotted with cafes that are absolutely nonchalant about the severely overpriced fare they serve and a plethora of designer boutiques, this beauty might burn a hole in your pocket, but it certainly is worth your time. Walk around the Piazza Umberto (I) to make the most of this Mediterranean experience. Most people like me take day trips to Capri from Naples. But there is no dearth of accommodation, albeit expensive, on the island majorly owing to the fact that it caters to VIPs from around the world. Make sure you go home with a lot of pictures and a bottle of 'Limoncello', a delectable Italian liqueur which is produced on the island. Getting there: There are ferries that run from Molo Beverollo port or the Porta Di Massa in Naples and get you to the island in an hour. Tickets come for around 19 Euros per trip and you can buy them from the counter at the port itself. A funicular (cable railway) which is opposite the Marina Grande, the main port of the island of Capri will take you to the town for approximately 2 Euros for a round trip. Must See: The Grotta Azzurra (The Blue Grotto) is a picturesque sea cave and one of the most popular attractions to be seen from Capri. Boat tours are available from the Marina Grande for around 20 Euros and the best time to visit is in the afternoon. However, if luck decides to desert you and the sea is rough, the Grotto is closed.
