A landscape that makes you feel intimidated by the shear size, magnanimity of its overwhelming presence.A jaw dropping experience like none other. Many of you wold have read multiple accounts of travel to Ladhak in summers but here I will share with you my experience of doing the same biking, hiking and riding in the harsh winters.
The Ladakh Range is regarded as a southern extension of Karakoram Range, which runs for 230 miles (370 km) from the confluence of the Indus and Shyok rivers in Baltistan to the Tibetan border of Ladakh in the southeast.
With the help of this post I will try sharing my experience of ladakh in winters.
It all started trip started on 20th March 2021 with boarding Delhi-Leh flight. It was my second trip to the territory but first of its kind in below freezing temperatures of Ladhakh. As always the mountain ranges, that the flight crosses to reach to the barren beauty, are spellbinding, but in winters the landscaped vistas are singing a different story. Covered with snow till your eyes can see the flight offered us astounding views of landscapes buried in snow. Glaciers shining bright reflecting the sun and rivers of snow seemingly passing through the valleys. This was a view like none other. Unlike the experience of flying over the same mountains in summers which was the case in my previous trip here.
After swirling through the valley and flying lower than the mountains, you land at Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport ( Leh Airport ) early morning.
Surrounded by lofty mountains its worlds 23rd highest commercial airport at 3256m above sea level.The airport is named after 19th Kushok Bakula Rinpoche, an Indian statesman and monk, whose Spituk Monastery is in direct vicinity to the airfield.
A day of acclimatisation goes a long way. That's DAY-1 in Ladhak. REST-REST-REST and Catch up your breath. No exertion is advised on your first day.
With temperatures dropping below -9 degree centigrate, it was imperative to find a centrally heated hotel. We found a beautiful boutique stay, walking distance from Leh market. Lakrook Boutique Stay is one of the few centrally heated hotels operational in winters in the city. Additionally, the rooms as well as washrooms (a make or break for many) were spic and span.
DAY-1 : Acclimatise
SIT-CHILL-RELAX! Its critical for the rest of your trip to be smooth that you relax on your first day out there. No exertion activities or long journeys should be a part of your fist day. Although I have seen many not worrying too much about it but when traveling in a group in a location like Ladakh, one person falling sick can derail the trip, so being safe is what I would advice.
On our first day we rode to Leh Palace.
An ancient structure, perched atop Tsemo Hill in the Himalayas, Leh Palace stands as a mute testimony to the changing times. Built in early 16th century by King Sengge Namgyal, a nine-storey structure, built mostly out of soil, rocks and wood, standing tall in a region of intense seismic activity overlooking the Leh city, is no ordinary feat.
We then head to Shanti Stupa, a Buddhist white-domed stupa on a hilltop in Chanspa, Leh district, built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura. The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama.
A serene spot admits the valley.
After a short detour to Leh Market for food we headed back to our rooms to rest up and get ready for a long day ahead of us tomorrow.
DAY-2 : Leh-Nubra via Khardunla Pass
Being a bike enthusiast we booked two Royal Enfield Himalayan and were advised to have a camper standby for the terrain where snow would make it impossible to ride and an Innova for when our bikes would be resting on the camper. So our caravan was set and we were all padded and ready to roll.
Distance between Leh to Nubra is about 160km via Khardungla Pass- Second Highest motor-able road in the world at an altitude of 17,892 feet , but was the highest when we did it. Now the highest motor-able road is Umling La Pass, located in eastern Ladakh at an altitude of 19,300 feet above sea level.
One of the most beautiful landscape you would ever see and to top of it off, in winters, they light up, brimming with snow.
Riding through Sand Dunes of Nubra valley, Cold Desert of Ladakh, you see double humped camels, a unique attraction of the location.
Next up is Hundar, which is the destination we had been heading to. In the lap of the valley surrounded by high rocky mountains lies this small village. Its full of camp sites and hotels and guest houses. However electricity is a challenge. Only few hotels provide electricity at night and in the month of march, when we rode about 130Kms on various terrains in negative temperatures, compromising with heating was not an option.
After looking through mutilple camp sites and hotels we find this gorgeous place at the beginning of the village, Stone Hedge. It has a boutique stay with spacious rooms and were adding camp site to the property. A beautiful stream flows through and beneath the hotel giving it a rare natural experience.
DAY-3: Nubra to Tyakshi
Meandering through the beautiful landscapes of Shyok Valley, zipping on our Himalayan bikes, it felt like each view was out of a painting. Riding along the sparkling blue water of shyok river we travel for about 90kms criss crossing small villages. We cross Turtuk and reach the last border village next only to Pakistan border. This ride was like none other.
Crossing bridges built on Shyok river, fighting strong cold bitting winds, I was thankful to BRO for building class A roads that made the ride in the valley a lot less tiring. A short day trip to the border brings out the patriot in you.
Next Up, FROZEN RIVER PARADISE
DAY- 4 : NUBRA TO PANGONG SO
Finally we reach to the D Day. One of the big reasons for us to punish ourselves, soldering through the weather and terrain.
A 6 hour journey of 270Kms is an adventure that binds you to that place forever. Unlike foreign locations where frozen lakes are a neighbourhood thing, in India one has to travel through treacherous terrains and challenging weather, in order to reach to about 14000 feet, to find one.
You would find camp sights to stay there but its only operational in summers. As it was winters for us so we had to keep moving after a short run on the ice.
A bucket list event, "check" , once in a lifetime experience, I feel proud to share.
"Success makes any journey worth taking. This was one of them. I urge you guys to push the normal and experience the unknown."
And then we head back to Leh city, another 6 hour journey, after passing the second highest motor able road, now the third, Changla Pass.
DAY-5 : Tourist attractions around Leh
After visiting a few other sites in and around leh city which can be covered in a day trip like
The Shey Monastery,
Magnetic Hill, where the optical illusion make the vehicle look to move up the slope.
Sangam point(where Indus and Zanskar river meet)
I can add 100's of images and have so much to say, but the true nature and might of the landscape can only be experienced and not read.
Ladhak trip would change your perspective of how we see mountains. It would change you as a person.
It took us seven days to cover the whole trip with ease and I recommend to take the same duration in planning.
Things to Note :
1. Majority of hotels are closed during winters so pick your stay carefully and always go with internal heating.
2. Make sure you have all the permits while leaving leh city for any other destination. You can visit the link below to get all the details of the restricted areas and inner line permits required to move around in ladhak. It also gives you details how to obtain them.
https://www.leh-ladakh-taxi-booking.com/practical-info/inner-line-permit-for-ladakh
3. Make sure your vehicles are in good condition as there is nothing to help you repair. Once broken it can only be towed.
4. Carry -15 degree weather jackets and multiple layers of warm clothes while riding in winters and certainly carry extra under layers, socks , warmers , etc. Falling sick can disrupt the trip.
5. Markets are closed ( some restaurants would be open though )during this season so don't leave anything to be bought there. Pack everything you need before you leave your hometown.
6. Most Importantly , Be extremely careful and cautious while riding in Ladhak. Don't speed and take risk as it would be hours before you can get any medical attention.
Leave the rest to universe, it will guide you further to have your own personal account and share with many others who get inspired by your journey.