Kashmir Kaleidoscope: A Summer Odyssey

2nd June 2023

Our visit to Kashmir was filled with great anticipation. However, upon reaching Jammu, we were immediately faced with the absence of mobile signals. In addition, we found that there was no efficient public transport that connected Jammu and Srinagar. The bus schedules and availability were unknown to us. We arranged for a taxi to transport us, and one of us bought a new SIM card to ensure connectivity while in Kashmir.

Our uphill journey commenced right from the city of Jammu itself. The roads we traversed were highly susceptible to landslides, and we witnessed a few areas where such incidents had occurred, causing temporary road closures for clearance. The road infrastructure was undergoing construction, with numerous new tunnels being built. The entire journey lasted approximately 6 to 7 hours. As we passed through Banihal, a town along the way, it felt like a gateway to Kashmir. A nearby tunnel seemed to separate Jammu and Kashmir, and on the other side, everything was noticeably different—the climate, the landscape, the flora and fauna, and even the people. It was at this point that we caught our first glimpse of the magnificent snow-capped mountains of the Great Himalayan Range.

As we reached the city of Srinagar, we were warmly greeted by the majestic Chinar trees. The magnificent Chinar trees hold a significant place in the rich tapestry of Kashmiri culture. Revered by the locals, these trees embody heritage, beauty, and tranquillity, serving as a cherished symbol. When autumn arrives, the Chinar's enchanting allure reaches its peak as its leaves transform into vibrant hues of red and gold. Historical records indicate that the Mughals, during their reign over the Indian subcontinent, introduced the Chinar to Kashmir. Captivated by its splendour, the Mughal emperors adorned the region with these majestic trees, gracing their gardens and important landmarks. Recognizing their cultural and environmental importance, the preservation and protection of Chinar trees have become paramount for the government and environmental organizations in Kashmir. To safeguard these magnificent specimens, numerous initiatives have been implemented, such as planting new saplings, raising awareness about their significance, and enforcing stringent regulations to prevent unauthorized felling.

The city, upon our arrival, appeared to be relatively peaceful and not overly crowded. One of the highly anticipated aspects of our visit to Kashmir was the tantalizing cuisine it had to offer. Known as a paradise for meat lovers, we eagerly indulged in our first meal at Linz Cafe. The Kashmiri Pulav we savoured was absolutely delightful, showcasing the unique and exquisite flavours that the region is renowned for.

The floating market in Dal Lake is a well-known attraction, but unfortunately, we missed the opportunity to experience it as it was closed by the time we arrived, or perhaps we were a bit late. Nevertheless, early in the morning, Dal Lake exuded a calm tranquillity. To explore the lake, we embarked on a shikara—a traditional wooden boat. As we glided along the calm waters, we were approached by various street vendors in their own shikaras, offering a range of enticing items such as Kashmiri Kahwa (a traditional tea), ornamental trinkets, and beautiful flowers. While we couldn't witness the bustling floating market we had anticipated, we caught a glimpse of the area where it typically takes place, adding to the allure of our Dal Lake experience.

Gulmarg had always held a special place on my bucket list, and the road leading through the enchanting woods heightened my excitement. However, upon arrival, I couldn't help but feel disappointed initially. The large crowds and the tourist guides flocking around each group of visitors gave me a negative impression. It was disheartening to witness the overwhelming presence of tourists. However, we soon realized that this influx of tourists marked the revival of Kashmir's tourism industry after a hiatus of three to four years. It dawned on us that the past few years had been a challenging period for the locals who relied on tourism for their livelihoods, ever since 2019.

From the base point where we parked our vehicle, we could already behold the majestic sight of the ice-capped mountains. Horse rides were available as an option to reach the summit, but considering our budget constraints and the upcoming trekking adventure in the following days, we decided to undertake the journey on foot. The trail was approximately 8 kilometres long, and the rates for horse rides exceeded our planned expenses. Additionally, we mentally prepared ourselves for the upcoming trekking experience. The path was muddy due to heavy rainfall in the past weeks. We managed to cover about three-fourths of the distance on foot. However, as rain started pouring down, and the daylight hours began to wane, we realized we wouldn't be able to complete the entire trail. Reluctantly, we retraced our steps and returned to our vehicle. Nevertheless, the allure of the cable cars and the pristine snow-covered mountains beckoned us. We held onto the hope of exploring snowy landscapes and indulging in playful activities in the days to come.

The desire to traverse the renowned National Highway 1, celebrated as one of the most scenic routes in the country, was a long-standing wish of mine. The opportunity finally presented itself during a brief journey to Sonmarg, and to my surprise, the allure of the route surpassed even the destination itself.

The path to Sonmarg, winding along the banks of the Indus River, was a visual feast. Glaciers, almost within arm's reach, cascaded down the mountains, offering a breathtaking spectacle. After a hearty breakfast at the resort, we set out with the aim of reaching a frozen mountain, eager to relish the snow that eluded us the previous day. However, the objective proved elusive, and our journey only took us to a tranquil meadow frequented by shepherds.

The much-anticipated day for our trekking adventure had finally dawned, and an early start was crucial. Our destination was Lidderwat in the Ananthnag district of Jammu & Kashmir, a junction where the Tarsar Marsar trek commences. Nestled in the Aru region, Lidderwat boasts alpine meadows crisscrossed by the Lidder River. Originating from the Kolhoi Glacier near Sonmarg, the Lidder River shapes the captivating Lidder Valley. Equipped with essential supplies sourced from Pahalgam and Ananthnag, we embarked on our journey to the trek's base.

Upon arrival, a gentle drizzle accompanied us, setting a serene atmosphere. Undeterred, we geared up for the trek, commencing with a challenging ascent through a muddy trail. The initial session proved demanding, with local sounds serving as bear warnings adding an extra layer of intensity. Undeterred, we pressed on.

As we progressed, the rain subsided, allowing us to shed our raincoats. A brief respite and we resumed our trek. Entering a valley embraced by towering mountains, painted in a mesmerizing blend of white, milky hues, and lush greenery, we traversed woods, meadows, and river crossings. Finally, we reached our designated camping site.

According to the locals, Kashmir's true beauty lies mostly unexplored, with numerous lakes accessible only to intrepid trekkers. Many still remain undiscovered. Kashmir, it seems, is boundless.

Camps were set up, and an evening meal was prepared. As night descended, so did the temperature, marking one of the coldest nights I had ever experienced. Yet, the sight above was indescribable. The night sky was filled with stars, more than I had ever seen, as though all the constellations had gathered. It was like countless grains of sand scattered across. While the trek wasn't overly challenging, our collective novice status presented some hurdles. Nevertheless, the journey proved to be a lifetime experience, highlighted by the unique and invigorating glacier bath.

The unforgettable journey was coming to an end, but my excitement was already building for the next day's plan—a trip from Srinagar to Leh, Ladakh, and this time, on a government transport bus. The thought of traversing one of the most iconic routes in the world, surrounded by rugged mountains and stark landscapes, made my heart race with anticipation. It was going to be a journey unlike any other, a chance to witness the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas up close and to experience the raw, unfiltered charm of Ladakh. I could hardly wait for the adventure to begin!