For breakfast, Ringchen served Khambir, the traditional bread of Ladakh and locally produced apricot jam along with honey, cheese spread and tea. The morning rays seemed to make peace with the frigid hours of the night. Having worked as a tourist guide before, Dorjee was the most resourceful host we could ask for. He gave us a map of the region, providing an overview of the places to visit and how to get there. Shey Palace, Thikse Monastery, Hemis Monastery, Stok Palace and Spituk Monastery were on our list. When we were about to leave, Azal noticed that the front tires of the Thar were balding out towards the edges. A visit to the service station was in order. On the way to Shey Palace, we dropped in at the Mahindra Service Center in Leh. Since it was a good three to four hour job, we decided to come back in the evening before the garage closed. Going ahead in search of Shey Palace, we came across a magnificent Buddhist institution of which we hadn't heard before - Karma Dupgyud Choeling Monastery. We decided to take a peek inside.