Just after our barbecue, the Amadeo I came to perhaps the trickiest maneuver in the fjords: the English Narrow, an S-curve that requires precise navigation. The passengers shuffled to the ship’s mirador de proa (prow lookout) en masse, braving the winds to witness this delicate bit of captaining. Just before the turn, I looked up to the bridge and met eyes with the Captain. He raised his brows at me as if saying, “Look what I can do,” and proceeded to execute the maneuver with ease. We were left to admire the scenery as a thick fog rolled in. Our ship’s horn blasted four times to warn the cargo ship a few kilometers to our rear that the fog would be obscuring their sight at the English Narrow. In the afternoon, we passed the Capitán Leonidas shipwreck, a picturesque but sobering reminder of how deceptively shallow these channels can be. My initial wish was to get a closer look, but I quickly realized that would be a poor idea. As the day drew to a close, the ship’s hostess passed around motion sickness pills. I took one just in case. That night we were sailing through open waters, and the ship did dip and swoon as unobstructed Pacific winds combed across our route.
Indianapolis City Market
Right in the heart of downtown is the City Market with dozens of booths selling everything from Greek to Italian to Mexican to Indian food. It was nice to see traditional vendors that have probably been there for decades right alongside hip juice bars and vegetarian restaurants, all with equally long lines. Once a week there's a farmers' market here, and each neighborhood throughout the city also has its own farmer's market, too
comfort food. MILKTHOOTH a new brunch place that just opened up just a few weeks ago. I was overjoyed when I saw they had pourover coffee brewed using either a Chemex or Hario V60. The dutch baby cornmeal pancake was also a treat topped with sweet berries and tangy creme fraiche, and the pork belly covered in sorghum syrup was out of this world.
E 38th St
The International Marketplace was one of the quirkiest things that we discovered about Indy, and it's one of the things that made us realize we could in fact live here. This neighborhood is a stretch of road several miles long, just outside the city center, that's lined with strip malls. Why is that exciting, you ask? It's exciting because after the economic downturn several years ago, many of the strip mall businesses went out of business and left. What has filled these empty buildings? International restaurants and grocery stores! As we drove down 38th St., we saw things like an abandoned Bob Evans building and an abandoned Lone Star building, now turned into really great ethnic restaurants. In any other city, you would probably steer clear of an Asian restaurant in an old Bob Evans building. That just sounds like a recipe for disaster. But in Indianapolis, they have made it work- these restaurants are actually some of the city's star chefs' favorites! There are not only restaurants in this neighborhood, but grocery stores, too. We walked into a huge Mexican grocery store that used to be a hardware store and my jaw dropped. Having just recently been to Mexico, it was awesome to see aisles and aisles of any ingredient you could ever want for making authentic Mexican food. We learned that there is also a large international grocery store in what used to be a Super Kmart. How cool! Independent, Chef-Driven Restaurants Duck breast at Cerulean Of course, what would a city revival be without some great new restaurants? The farm-to-table movement is in full force here, and menu after menu listed all of the local farms from which the ingredients came. These restaurants exude cool with re-purposed buildings and furniture, but most importantly, the food is downright good.