On the 4th day After I'd visited the ruin civilization of Dholavira, I decided to not stop to any hotel rather to keep riding towards Jaisalmer. I moved back to Rapar and started riding on NH-27 that goes towards Udaipur. The highway goes from the midst of the Wild Ass sanctuary, the only home left to the wild asses in the world. I was not lucky to see any one of them. But I was desperate to enter the land of golden soil so I didn't care about those donkeys. From Santalpur I left the highway and took left turn towards Sanchore. This was a state highway and in the worst condition. To add to the misfortune, it started raining heavily. This road is merely 20 km away from India-Pakistan border. Moreover, it was the night of 'no moon'. This was going to be the most horrible night of this trip. I don't remember how many times my tires were jumped into and out of the those potholes. I had fear of getting flat tires. For 40 kms I even didn't find any shop open or any fuel station. Only trucks were there on the road.
Anyhow I reached Tharad on NH-68. Then I took a great relief but was unaware that that was just the beginning of the cruelty of the night. I found a dhaba and had dinner at 9 pm. I took rest for half an hour and was in two moods whether to go ahead or wait till morning as it was still raining and I was completely unaware of the road ahead. But then the thoughts of not wasting time which I was already short of, won over the fear of the cruel night. I started riding on the NH-68 which goes upto Jaisalmer through Barmer. I crossed the inter-state border of Gujrat and Rajasthan just befor Sanchore. I entered into the third state of this trip. I was extremely excited. But this excitement could not last longer. It started raining heavily again. The visibility reduced to less than 50 meters. The road condition was getting worse after every kilometer I crossed. The size of potholes I never imagined. Even now these were filled with rain water to add to my crisis. I didn't find any vehicle before 10 minutes. Every 10 minutes I would cross a truck. I would smile that I am not alone but that smile wouldn't persist longer because the same truck while crossing used to throw the heaviest gust of water on me and my motorcycle. What could I do, nothing? I would taste the water pushed into my mouth without consent and smile again with another thought! This game happened with me till 3 o'clock in the morning. Now I was completely wet and tired. I had been driving for last 4 hours in such calamitous conditions. I even couldn't find a single shop for tea. Then 30 kms before Barmer, I found a tea shop. I stopped my motorcycle and rushed to the shop. There was no light in that shop except the light of the oven he was using to prepare tea. I asked for a cup of tea. After that he also slept and again I was alone in that terrific situation. But I was too tired and wet to go ahead. So I lied on a khaat and slept in no time. In that jungle, there were only two of us. And I wasn't afraid of anyone even if I had mobiles , wallet and motorcyle and I was alone. This is the beauty of travelling alone. There comes a point when you stop getting afraid of such things. There were mosquitos and insects because of rain. I wore gloves , hide my face with bandana and slept. That was possibly the best and most satisfactory sleep I had during that trip. Then I woke up around 5 am by the horns of trucks. By that time it stopped raining. I was proud of myself that I had passed the most horrible night of the trip. Then I started riding towards Barmer in no time. The last night had taught me a lot. When I was driving alone in the rain and dark, I thought about many things happening in my life. Sometimes I would think about the lives we live in cities and at the next moment I would think about the wilderness of human mind. I thought about everyone I know. I would think that no one knows where I was and how I was. Only I could know the implicit excitement of this fear. I was driving , driving and driving in the dark. Sometimes I would start thinking about the metaphysical ideas of abstraction of life. But now I had passed the thrilling night. I was riding again on the same highway. The road condition was the same till Barmer. I reached Barmer at 7 am. Then I moved ahead towards Jaisalmer as I had only that day to visit Jaisalmer. After Barmer I could witness the color change of soil from white to yellow. The Barmer-Jaisalmer highway goes parallel with the India-pakistan border. So I could see a lot of military activities in this route. I booked a hotel in Jaisalmer fort area on the way. I reached Jaisalmer at 11 am. I checked in within 15 minutes and slept in no time.
I woke up at 2 am. I had lunch and stepped towards the Jaisalmer fort. In the sunlight I could witness the beauty of the Jaisalmer city. This was the first time I was visiting any of the fort city of Rajasthan. I was mesmerized seeing the golden hue everywhere in the city. Every single house in the city is made of yellow sandstones. Every house, every hotel, every shop looked like a royal place. With the yellow background, every shop has clothes, toys, jewellery in the most vibrant color. Everything was so vibrant and colorful that you can not imagine a city lies within the thar desert tracing geologies dating back to 180 million years ago.