Afterward, slowly make your way back to Paris, where you’ll spend your afternoon in Le Marais, located in the 3rd arrondissement. This old-school Parisian neighborhood has evolved over centuries, once making its name as the city’s main Jewish neighborhood and later as a hotbed of LGBT life.
Prime for strolling, Le Marais is also home to some of Paris’s best, yet underrated, museums. Visit the recently-reopened Musée Picasso, located in the stunning 17th-century Hôtel Salé, to see a collection of more than 5,000 works from the acclaimed Spanish artist. The beautiful building is also home to a room with custom-designed furniture by Diego Giacometti.
Next, go even further off the beaten track at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature. This private museum is small and doesn’t take much time to visit, but that’s precisely why it’s great. You won’t find hordes of selfie-stick-waving tourists here; instead, you’ll discover two incredibly well-preserved mansions filled to the brim with oil paintings, tapestries, and lifelike taxidermy, all dedicated to hunting and nature.
Have dinner at Chez La Vieille, an old-school bistro that was taken over by American chef Daniel Rose in 2016. The French fare here—think rabbit kidneys on toast and earthy veal blanquette—is served alongside a thoughtful natural wine list, also procured by an American, sommelier Aaron Ayscough.
It’s your last night, which means it’s time for a drink. Parisian cocktail culture has become something to be proud of in recent years and you’re heading to one of the original purveyors of the genre. You might blush when you say the name, but as soon as you have your first taste of a hand-crafted mai tai or painkiller at Dirty Dick, a brothel-turned-tiki bar in the South Pigalle, all will be forgotten.