This was our anniversary trip so we were very excited about it. Lots of planning and preparation had gone into it. We had booked an early morning flight from New Delhi to Bagdogra, Siliguri, West Bengal. This is the cheaper way to travel to Bhutan as the direct flights are expensive.
Our flight arrived at Bagdogra at 10.30 am. Our pre-booked cab arrived 10 minutes later and we were on our way to Phuentsholing, Bhutan the border town.
The drive through tea estates and north Bengal greenery was beautiful. For a long stretch the river Teesta flowed down along and we also passed the Teesta Barrage also that is a local tourist spot. And then we also stopped at a small highway dhaba or eatery for lunch. Initially we were little confused but then my Bengali heart leaped with joy yo realise that I am in Bengal so it has to be rice and fish. That's what we had. It was so delicious, coupled with potato and spinach fry, dal, potato and cauliflower dry veggie.
Finally we reached the border town of India, Jaigaon at around 1.30. The driver asked us to buy masks as per Bhutan's rule for then growing scare on COVID19. Our temperatures were tested before entering the country, flights details checked and cleared. The first view of the country is just like any city with one exception, most of the women are dressed in their traditional attire of Kira.
We reached our hotel in 5 mins and after another 10 minutes of checking in procedure, in our room.
The long drive had left us exhausted so we decided to order tea, the beverage that keeps India alive. I always carry dry food in form of biscuits, cookies, fruit cake and stuff with me. Helps in avoiding unrequired expenses.
And then we slept for three hours.
By the time we woke up, it was dark and we were hungry. So we stepped out to explore Phuentsholing. The small town is very cute with neatly lined buildings, all designed in the traditional style. Trees covering both the sides of the road and believe it or not, no honking. Cars or taxis or bikers will drive at the allowed speed and will stop if a pedestrian appears. It is a different story that the pedestrians are all well behaved and strictly follow the rule of crossing the road only on a Zebra crossings, and use the footpath. We visited the small private temple of Zangtopelri. After spending some time there we visited The Urban Kitchen for dinner. We had Bhutanese style veg Thukpa and pork.
Yeah it's Sunday!
We woke up late, had late lunch at our Hotel's restaurant. Our driver came to pick us up for visit to two nearby Monastery.
First we visited Karbandi Monastery. The complex is beautiful with vibrant garden and from there you can get a bird's eye view of Phuentsholing. The complex has 8 stupas or chortens built by the monks thousands of years ago. They have been rebuilt in 1960s by the Royal Mother.
Our next stop was Palden Tashi Chholing Sheera, a monastic school for Buddhist monks and nuns. It was beautifully made with huge parks and the Himalayas forming a panoramic backdrop.
We thought of visiting an ATM and this is the most difficult task. Please guys, carry enough cash or make bank transfer to your hotels. As apart from very fancy places no one accepts cards.
We walked our way out to the Indian town to look for ATMs. Oh god, they stay close on Sundays. Life is different in small towns. We walked back to Phuentsholing little worried as we were not sure whether the remaining cash will be enough. We had around 15k but then Bhutan is not cheap either. There is no concept for street food or mobile van. If you are hungry, you have to visit a cafe or restaurant.
Then we went to Kizom Cafe, a popular pizza and coffee shop. Had a pizza and ahot cup of cappuchinno.
We thought about having dinner around 9, biggest mistake. Never delay your dinner so alte in Bhutan. They start closing shop or kitchen by then. Which is why we did not get any dinner anywhere.
Monday morning brought us the rush to visit the Immigration office for permit to visit Thimphu and Paro. Till now, being an Indin one did not require a visa to visit Bhutan but this permit for everywhere except Phuentsholing. We were shocked to see a sea of humanity waiting for us at the governme toffice. But thank God that we had decided on to get an agent forcab and permit service. We did not had to stand in the serpentine queue for hours and could have our food, complete check out process and again visit the indian side to withdraw while our assigned driver, Zahir got the formalities done. of course we did got our biometrics done at the office where our personal travel details were asked but still Zahir being a regular one at this task, we were not hassled so much.
We started for thimphu around 3.
All hell broke loose after half an hour. It rained like mad with a severe hail storm that was scary. It lasted for over an hour. The narrow mountaineous roads seemed dangerous becoming slippery due to water and ice. And then the sky cleared and the rainbow appeared. We reached our hotel around 8, had informed them earlier itself for dinner. After a yummy dinner of Jasha Mari (chicken in Bhutanese style), potato in cheese and rice, we crashed. Literally.
The next day we left for Punakha.
And our first stop on the way was the divine Dochula Pass. Surrounded by dense fog, the group of 108 chortens is a sight to behold. The stone stairs were slippery and the temperature at -1 but the spirit was high. From there it was straight to Punakha Dzong. The most beautiful fortress in Bhutan, it is built at the juncture of Mo Chu and Po Chu river. But what swept us off our feet was the 180 mts long Punakha Suspension Bridge. It was swaying in the breeze embraced by the colourful prayer flags on both sides with the river flowing under the bridge. We went across and then returned, the experience was overwhelming and inspiring. The bridge is one of the oldest and longest in the country. What's more, the day we were visiting Punakha, the locals and the monks were celebrating Punakha Tshechu Festival that honours Guru Rimpoche, the patron saint of Bhutan. And then it was a drive to our last destination in Bhutan, Paro.
The homestay we had booked in Paro was in the outskirt, so technically we entered the city, almost crossed it and then reached the place. It looked very disappoining as it was almost 8, very dark and no street light. The house was a 200 year olf property, run by a pair of cheerful siblings. Finally when shown to our room, most of our disappointment melted. A beautifully hand painted room awaited us. At Rimphu Heritage, dont forget to taste the homemade Rum punch. We had rice, chicken and a spinach dal, all in Bhutanese style for dinner. It is a constant surprise to me that everywhere the traditional style of construction was way superior to us. The wood and mud made house was so warm and we could walk around in light sweater only when the temperature is zero.
Good morning Thimphu.
It was a glorious sunny day. With a hearty breakfast, we left for local sightseeing. Our first stop was National Memorial Chorten in the heart of the city dedicated to the memory of the third monarch of Bhutan, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. A beautiful white stupa is the centrepoint of the complex.
Next we visited the Buddha Dordenma Statue. Its huuuuuuuuge. gilded gold, it also houses hundred other avatars of Buddha.
Folk Heritage museum was our next stop. it takes one through the olden lifestyle of people in Bhutan. From their handicrafts to food, clothing, stable for domestic animals, everything has been beautifully showcased. My husband spent most of the time asking fellow Indian (read Gujarati tourists) not to touch the artefacts as per the rules. The Gujju snickered in her mother tongue, very distatsteful indeed. We had lovely lunch at the restaurant of the museum. It was rush hour so the staff was little snooty but then very rarely one finds people who are always friendly. we paid extra for butetr tea.
The handicrafts market is a small street market good for souvenier shopping. Our last destination for the day was the grand Thimphu Dzong. It is the administrative office of the king as well as the religious centre. While it is a huge complex and the structure is a specimen of traditional Bhutanese architecture, you can just enter the main compound and one single temple, everything else is not open for the public. But the main temple is serene and majestic both at the same time. Had dinner at the vegan cafe, first experience for us, not bad.
After a heavy breakfast on the sunny terrace, we left to explore Paro.
And a drive through the snow filled roads, icy wind and really treacherous curves, we reached Chele La Paas, the highest motorable point in Bhutan at 3988 mts. While the sun was bright and shining down with all its might, the wind was trying to thrown us away. I slipped, almost fell on the snow and somehow got back into the warmth of the car. :)
From there we went to Paro town to check out the local market, eat and generally wander. In the late afternoon, we visited the National Museum. It gives a detailed history of the Kingdom's five monarch, the diverse climate, flora and fauna, culture, festivals and more. Huge photographs, LED panels, installations and certain specimens have been put up for display and understanding of the visitors.
Later in the evening we did some shopping and reached the homestay for diiner. The next day, it was to be Tiger's Nest.
After another hearty breakfast, we were ready for the Taktsang Palphug Monastery popularly known as Tiger's Nest. Built in 1692, it is one of the most sacred sites for the Buddhists. Its a trek of around 2 hours one way and one cannot enter the templex complex with mobile phones, watches and camera. So we reached the ticket counter and lo and behold, we were denied because a suspected case of Corona scare had gone for the trek so no more people would be allowed to go! whatttt! We waited for some more time but luck didnt smile on us. And within a short time, the news got spread and all tourists were asked to leave the country Paro. My husband suggested that we leave for Phuentsholing that day itself as we anyway have to be there next morning, our flight back home was in the evening.
So we packed our things and bid farewell to our gracious hosts who had planned a feast for us that night but, perhaps,it has to wait till our next trip to Bhutan. We have to go back for Tiger's Nest. Our driver helped us in booking a hotel at Phuentsholing for our last night in Bhutan. It took us almost 5 hours to reach the town. We spent the last evening in Bhutan, looking around, appreciating the calmness of the country, simple lifestyle and how close they keep their monarch. Every home, office, shop, hotel, wherever you go, you will find a photograph of the king or the royal family.
Our driver, Zahir, was an exceptional guy. He was younger than us but was immensely experienced. He knew we were extremely disappointed with yesterday so he offered us to show us either the river bank of North Bengal forests or try and get us a glimpse of the elephant. Of course, we chose the latter. The first place we reached, all the elephants were out for safaris. So we could not see any of them. Another heartbreak! But it only motivated Zahir to take us to another part of the forest which is famous for the majestic Tuskers. As the car was speeding through the forest, it suddenly screeched to a halt. I was about to scold Zahir when I saw almost 200 mtrs away, the glorious animal standing besides some bushes and enjoying a feast of fresh leaves. It kicked the forest authorities signboard and continued to enjoy its food.
Behind us almost 15 vehicles had stopped. And waited. We were exulted and could not thank Zahir enough for this once-in-a-lifetime experience.
From there it was lunch again and then straight airport.
Bhutan was memorable, mesmerizing and magical.