Gasping for Air, Intentional Small Steps, Take it Slow - Ladakh

Tripoto
3rd Aug 2019
Photo of Gasping for Air, Intentional Small Steps, Take it Slow - Ladakh by Samarjit Ghosh
Day 1

Journey started when we were returning from our Kerala trip in June last year. Before boarding the flight at Kerala Airport, I told my friend that I want to go to Ladakh next year.  So, we started our planning well in advance and finalized our trip for August 2019.

Direct flights are available from Mumbai to Leh. If you are travelling to Leh by air during August, then do not miss the amazing sunrise over the clouds and the view of the world's greatest snow-capped peaks of the Himalayan mountain chain from your plane window.

Landed early morning at Leh Airport. It was very cold and drizzling when I arrived. I met with my friend at the airport. We checked into the Hotel Grand Yasmin. 

Leh is situated at an altitude ranging from 10000 to 11000 feets above sea level therefore it is recommended to have complete rest on the day of arrival if flying directly to Leh. It is high enough to acclimatize yourself to the rarefied air at high altitudes.

Day 2

Local sightseeing:

Shey Palace : After breakfast we visited the monasteries of Shey. The Ancient Palace and Shrine of Shey is located 15 km to the east of Leh City. The Palace is perched on a hillock overlooking the Shey village. It was also known as the ancient capital of Ladakh. The five storied building on a L-shaped plan built in traditional method using stones, sun dried mud bricks and wool of Poplars and willow trees.

Rancho School: Druk Padma Korpa School known as Rancho School which became famous after Aamir Khan’s movie Three Idiots in 2009. A Rancho’s wall was built in the school which became a picture spot for tourists.     

In the afternoon, we visited Thikse Monastery which is located on the top of a hill in Thikse approximately 19 km east of Leh. One of the largest and most impressive Gompas (Ling). There are several temples in this Gompa containing images, stupas and exquisite wall paintings. Ticket allows entry to main prayer hall, mahakala temple, paldenlamo temple, maitreya temple, tara temple, gold & silver stupa temple.

Stok Gompa of Ladakh is situated at approximately 15 km to the South of the Leh. It dates to the 14th century and was founded by Lama Lhawang Lotus. While visiting the Stok Monastery you can also enjoy the new 71 feet high seated Gautama Buddha Statue. During our visit, the monastery was closed for yearly maintenance activity. 

Day 3

Leh to Nubra Valley

After breakfast, we checked out from our hotel and drove towards Khardung La mountain pass. It is one of the highest motorable mountain passes in the world at an altitude of 17982 feet. A small café with tea, coffee and snacks facilities are available on top. 

After spending about an hour, we started our journey towards Nubra Valley. Road towards Nubra Valley was maintained but there are several places where you will find the roads are washed out due to ice melt stream and falling rocks. On the way, we crossed Diskit and Hunder Village. In Hunder, we saw a few double humped, hairy and bactrian camels. You can enjoy the camel ride at 11000 feet altitude. We spend our night at Nubra Escape Camp.

Day 4

Nubra Valley to Pangong

It was a chilly morning; our alarm clock was beaten on their head and we get up late in the morning. After a quick breakfast we left the camp and drove towards Diskit Monastery. It is the oldest and largest Buddhist Monastery in Nubra Valley. A 32-meter long Maitreya Buddha Statue was contracted near the Monastery. We left the monastery around 10 am and drove towards Pangong Lake.

The road towards Pangong Lake was not in good shape. In several places, the roads were washed out by streams caused by melting ice or damaged due to falling rocks. If you are traveling from Nubra Valley to Pangong, it is advisable to leave early because you must cross the Shayok river to reach Pangong. During afternoon, the water levels increase significantly denying motorable access. One has to wait till the level drops allowing safe access.

In the evening, we reached Pangong Lake the long, narrow, enchanted lake. There is a narrow ramp-like formation of land that runs into the lake which is a favorite among tourists and photographers. The highest saltwater lake in the world is shared by two countries India & China. The surface elevation is around 14000 feet. We spend our night at Spangmik Village. The village is very close to Tibetan border. 

Day 5

Pangong to Leh via Changla Pass

The morning was very cold. Last night there was raining because of which the temperature was dropped few degrees more. Somehow, we managed to get up from the bed. After breakfast and tea, we drove towards the shooting spot and leave for a walk to enjoy the beauty of lake on banks of the lake while appreciating the changing colors.

After spending about an hour, we started our journey towards Leh. On the way back to Leh we have seen a pair of Himalayan Marmots after about 25 kms from Pangong. We returned to Leh city in evening and stayed in a hotel. 

Day 6

Tibetan Food, Local sightseeing and Leh Market

Local sightseeing and shopping were planned this afternoon and evening. Being bong we both are food lovers and we search for a good local restaurant for our lunch.We found the busiest restaurant The Tibetan Kitchen in our vicinity. They serve the authentic foods of Ladakh. Being a dry day the non-veg items were not available, so we had to order veg food. Veg Cheese Sabagleb, Veg Thukpa with Tingmo. 

Shanti Stupa: Afternoon we visited to Shanti Stupa. Located on the hilltop at Changspa. The Stupa was constructed by a Japanese Buddhist organization, known as 'The Japanese for World Peace'.

Leh Palace: It was built in the 17th century as residential palace for the King Singge Namgyal.

Day 7

Leh to Kargil

We started early from Leh and drove to Kargil through Khalse, Lamayuru, Mulbekh.  On the way, we enjoyed the scenic beauty of Magnetic Hill, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib and Sangam view. In the afternoon, we visited Lamayuru monastery which is a unique and the oldest monastery in Ladakh. Mulbekh is where a Chamba statue has been carved out of a single rock about 44 meters high. 

After traversing fascinating formations of granite colored soil rocks, we drove down through kangaroo curves to Kargil. We stayed overnight at hotel Chutuk Heights, located on  the bank of Suru River.

Day 8

Kargil to Dras and Returned back to Leh

We drove towards Dras, the 2nd coldest inhabited place in the world and enjoyed a cup of hot tea. It is often called ''The Gateway to Ladakh''

On the way we visited Dras War Memorial built by Indian Army. It is located on the Srinagar-Leh National Highway. The memorial is in the memory of the soldiers and officers of the Indian Army who were martyred during the 1999 Kargil War. 

In evening we returned back to Leh City and did our shopping from Leh Market. 

Day 9

On 11th August morning, we boarded our return flight from Leh.

Despite being a difficult terrain, travel ban, curfew other administrative issues in Jammu and Kashmir and besides some terrible travel decisions which we made, in the end, the meandering roads, snow-capped mountains and the high-altitude cold deserts of Ladakh made this an awesome trip. It is one of the most spectacular places on earth. Once you have travelled to Ladakh, no other place appears to be possible able to match its stark and raw beauty.