At the end of 2012, I lived for three months in Mérida, a small city in the region of Extremadura, Spain, teaching English. It’s a place I’d never heard of before getting a job offer there through various teaching contacts, though I had heard of its much bigger namesake in Mexico. Mérida in Extremadura, of course, is the original (there’s actually also a Mérida in Venezuela and the Philippines).
Mérida lies on the Vía de la Plata, a pilgrimage route from Seville to Santiago de Compostela, and is for many a highlight of the month-long trek from Andalucia to Galicia. It is also approximately half way between Madrid and Lisbon, making it an excellent stop over point on a tour of the Iberian peninsula.
The main reason to visit this city of 57,000 people is for its Roman ruins, which are very accessible and many of which are right in the centre of the town, something which is not easy to find in Spain.
Day Trips
Proserpina
Proserpina is a Roman built reservoir, approximately 9km north of the city which used to serve as the city’s main source of water. Nowadays, the main activities that happen here are fishing, swimming, pedal boating and walking. One side of the lake is quite developed, with holiday homes and a few restaurants, while the other side is much more rugged. Walking around the lake takes about one hour, and it’s a lovely place to cool down outside of the city on a hot sunny day.
Alange
Another, but much more recently built and much bigger reservoir is at Alange, approximately 25km south of Mérida. There is a small town with some places to eat, sleep and in summer time, a thermal bath. The reservoir itself is enormous and in summer, is a popular place to go windsurfing, swimming or lying on the artificial beach. Above the lake is a hill with a ruined castle on top, which can be reached in an easy 30 minute walk from the town, and is worth it for the wonderful views over the lake, especially at sunset.
Zafra
60km south of Mérida, also on the Vía de la Plata is the pleasant town of Zafra. The old, historical centre is built around the 15th century castle, which is now a upscale hotel, and also serves as one of the main tourist information points. Wandering around the old town is a nice way to spend an afternoon, and there are plenty of cafés lining the many pedestrian only squares to stop for a drink.
Cáceres
If you’re craving a bit of the big city lights, Cáceres is the closest thing you’ll find to it in Extremadura. As the biggest city in the region with 95,000 people, it’s the place to come for shopping, nightlife and anything you can’t find in Mérida. The charming old town is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets, intimate squares, gothic and baroque churches and cute cafés.
Monfragüe
180km northeast of Mérida is Monfragüe national park, a great place for spotting some regional wildlife such as vultures, eagles, deer and foxes. The deer are especially friendly and curious and may even approach you if it seems that you have food for them. From the main road through the park, there are several well marked circular walking paths of different levels of difficulty. There is one town in the park, Villareal de San Carlos with a few shops and a hotel, but you can easily make the trip from Mérida as a day trip.
Mérida is well connected by public transport to major cities in Spain to the north and south, as well as to Madrid in the east and to Portugal in the west. Other, smaller destinations require your own transport. Mérida has both a bus and a train station, and while there are several trains to Cáceres, Madrid and Seville, they are usually slower and more expensive than buses.
The train station is on Calle Carderos, just behind Calle Marquesa de Pinares.
The bus station is on Avenida Libertad, just across Lusitania bridge from the old town.
The closest international airports to Mérida are Seville San Pablo (195km), LisbonPortela (290km) and Madrid Barajas (360km).
There is one airport in Extremadura, Badajoz Airport (50km west of Mérida), which has domestic flights to Madrid, Málaga, Barcelona and in the high season, to the Balearic islands.