(Part 1)
"Thakur, uth ja. Chal chaliye."( Thakur, wake up, let's go!)
It's was perhaps 4 am in the morning and that weekend would have been quite peaceful had I not gotten that adrenaline rush! That damned weekend!
It was first week of April and in Chandigarh, the mercury was already rising, close to 33-34°C. An insomniac night, and I was reading about off-beat places around Himachal to explore. The search results seemed quite monotonous until a picturesque Shiva Idol with blue sky and hills in the backdrop caught my eye. 'Tap-Tap'
Churdhar/Nauradhar/Shirgul temple were the related searches that started showing up. So it turned out to be some 'Lord Shiva Temple' and boy!! The first few images in search results were tempting enough to get me going. "Let's do this" said a devil in my head and I got up, started packing. I thought of doing it solo, but then, destiny was like, "Why should Siyal have all the 'fun'? You see, 'fun', with a pun!! :D
Vishal was sleeping on the opposite bed and I woke him up. Vishal was literally half asleep when we had this conversation.
Me- Thakur, chal chaliye.(Thakur, let's go)
Vishal- kithe( where)
Me - Churdhar
Vishal- aah kithe?( Where is it?)
Me- Himachal ch hai, Nauradhar kol. Monday wapis aa jawange.(Himachal,close to Nauradhar. We'll be back by Monday)
I obviously did not expect a vibrant acknowledgement to my incredibly amazing, instant plan, but it was rude of the fuc*er pulling up the sheet over his face and going back to sleep.
I pulled his sheet off and made him realise that I wasn't kidding. Half heartedly, he agreed. And it wasn't just his 'will to accompany' that was half-hearted, there were quite a lot of other 'halves' too. Like half planning (perhaps quarter), half clothes(coz I told you it was summers) and half brains(including his and mine)!!
So by early morning, may be 5-5.30 am, we were at Chandigarh's sector 43 Bus Stop, looked for the bus that would take us to Nauradhar, hopped on to it and the journey began!
HALF CHURDHAR
Part(2)
You guys noticed those tiny droplets on the front mirror? Yes, it began to drizzle. Soon, that drizzle turned to shower and progressed to a full fledged rainy thunderstorm as our journey continued. But it wasn't this rain, but a conversation with a man in the bus which dampened my hopes to conquer Churdhar. Out of curiosity, I thought of striking a conversation with localite and ask about the place and the whereabouts or anything. I asked this gentleman if the place is open for trek or if there are any risks involved.
"Bhaisaab aap pagal ho kya, iss mausam mei Churdhar ko aa gaye"(are you mad that you've come to trek in this weather).
Iss time pe waha 12-12 foot baraf hai, kaha chadhai karoge?(it's still covered with 12 feet snow, how are you going to make it?)
"Udhar toh janwar wagera bhi hain, Aur 18-20km mei khaana, rehna kuch bhi nhi milega."(Wild animals out there, and 18-20kms, no shops or anything).
"Yeh nhi hai mausam jaane ka"(This isn't the time to go there!)
Honestly, i wasn't quite convinced. It was 34-35°C in the plains already. No way there's so much of snow. I giggled and thanked him for the brief conversation. Luckily, Vishal did not over hear this conversation and had his earbuds plugged. I thought it was high time and I googled a little more than just pictures this time. So it turned out to be a sanctuary with all sorts of flora and fauna. But, the move couldn't be undone now as we finally reached Noradhar. And yes, by now, I was definitely a little worried, about my unprepared-ness. We quickly enquired about a room to stay. ₹ 200 for a night, quilts and food inclusive, attached bathroom with hot water, pretty cheap na? Even by standards of year 2015.
Oh! Did I tell you about our packing? Well, Vishal had no winter clothing, just a shirt and t-shirt. I had an upper, t-shirt and a pair of jeans, that's it!
After a quick brunch, we decided to go for a leisure walk. It was barely 3.30pm, quite windy and chilly. So much, that our hands started to freeze. It was overcast, yet the view was eye soothing. Soon the sun set, so did we, since we were tired. The 'Old Monk' generously drove us to sweet dreams, for a bigger day to follow!
HALF CHURDHAR
Part(3)
I wanted to start pretty early, but it had rained overnight and the morning was still gloomy. Nonetheless, by 7 am we got up, freshened up a bit, bags packed with a bread loaf, peanut butter, dry fruits and a packet of glucose AND 500ml of kerosene oil, all set to go. The owner of the place, where we stayed, asked us to be cautious coz he didn't think it was a right time to trek. But of course, I wasn't heading back without even trying. We gulped our breakfast and bid him goodbye.
So, we started our trek. The initial climb I tell you, was very steep and drained a lot of our energy. However, slowly and steadily, we kept treading on the trail, with clouds to accompany. Barely an hour or two into trek and to worsen things, it started to drizzle yet again. Luckily, we saw a small shed-like structure and hurried towards it to cover ourselves. The rain got heavier. With clouds above and gushing winds, it was damn cold. So much, that we had to frequently rub our hands to ensure they didn't go numb! Yet, we were determined to make it through. After almost an hour, the drizzle stopped and we started again.
By now we had entered the jungle and with huge trees around, it was dark. Fallen trees and leaves had blurred trails and it started becoming difficult, but no signs of snow yet. Then came a point, when we hit a dead end. Apparently, we had picked upon a wrong trail and when we looked back, everything was dark and confusing. We were lost for sure. We looked at each other and didn't know what to do. Moments later, we saw sunlight piercing through the trees above us, like the door of heaven. We could see a stone pavement at a good 40-50 meters above us. So I decided to climb up and see if that was the right trail. It was dead steep. And a slip would have thrown me into a gorge.
Luckily, I managed to climb and got a bird's-eye view of the trail we were on. I guided Vishal through it and in next 10-15 minutes, we were back together. And another half an hour it took us to reach a place, that looked like a camp site. Surprisingly, we saw humans there! Alive! And the first encounter with snow too!!
HALF CHURDHAR
Part(4)
With the dimmed, warm sunlight and a few people around, it was quite pleasent a feeling. They seemed like setting up a house or something. We walked up to them, greeted and sat with them for a chit chat. They were generous enough to offer us some tea and told us that the season is about to start and they're here to set the campsites. When we told them that we were heading towards the peak, they immediately warned us not to! According to them, we had hardly covered 1/3rd of the total trek, the next part wasn't easy coz it was snow covered, and it was already 4pm. They were quick to judge our preparedness and added that there aren't any shelters or shops ahead. And there's now way we would make it to the temple before sunset.
My heart sank, along with it, drowned the hopes to conquer Churdhar peak! Vishal was determined to not paying heed to my stupidity anymore. I still had the guts to walk a li'l further from the campsite and see for myself. As I left the campsite, the jungle became even more dark n dense. The ear deafening silence was nothing short of a horror movie plot. Every chirp/squeak of bird, sound of a rolling stone or a falling leaf had started to scare me. Snow covered trail to add to it. So this time, I was absolutely convinced that this wasn't a good idea to roam around in such hostile arena and immediately turned back to camp site.
Though we couldn't go ahead, I yet again convinced my buddy to stay here overnight. We even started collecting twigs and sticks to light up a fire. It was 5pm and those localites started to descend back to Noradhar. Before they left, they asked us if we had enough clothes or a tent and food to endure the night. The temperature would go below 0°C. And if the fire isn't lit, chances are that we'd freeze and wild animals roam around for food. Those words were the final nails in the coffin. We buckled up and decided to descend along. It took us almost 7 hours to be here but less than 3 hours back to base! Unfortunately, it was a failed attempt, yet a daring and adventurous outing. Next morning(6April,2015), we headed home with a heavy heart and a hope to be back soon.
In 2016,indeed I did.. ;)
HALF CHURDHAR
(Part 5)
Fast forward to November 2016, when I was back from Pune for a vacation. After a few days of stay in Amritsar, along with my cousin and Vishal(yet again), we were in Chandigarh just to roam around as a part of reunion. So that night, we were all 'house-partying' at a friend's place and were all high. Talks of our outings in Chandigarh and clubbing nights were on until one of them mentioned 'Churdhar'. I was startled at the mention of it! The flashbacks of the trip and a sudden urge to go back to that place again!
'Yaar mai swere challa Churdhar' (I'm leaving for Churdhar in the morning). Also asked if anybody would be interested in coming along.
They all looked at me as if I was saying (aaj plane tera bhai udaayega). Obviously, I wasn't taken seriously, until next morning. But just like the last time, I was determined enough to go. But unlinke last time, I had no company. And once again, I set myself up to finish what was left undone. As I reached Noradhar again, not much had changed. Except the tarriff for the room had risen to INR 250. And, the last time I was there, season hadn't started and this time, the season had ended! Luckily, the snowfall was delayed this year and I got to know that weather should be fairly good for the trek.
So after a good sleep, I got up to a bright sunny morning. This time, I was very early, and started my trek well before 7am. Since there wasn't any snow, it was a little easy for me to make it to the first campsite. From where we had returned the last time. However, there wasn't anyone around and no shacks opened. As I kept passing by that place, the flashbacks were coming exactly like what SRK got in the movie Karan Arjun! I took a break there for the first time here.
Ummm, ok. Spoiler alert. I wasn't alone on this trek. I did have a company this time too, but it wasn't Vishal! A friend of mine had dared to come along even after hearing my heroics of last attempt. And for the rest of the story, will be referred to as 'Jeet'. This trek too, wasn't smooth as I lost Jeet midway in woods..
HALF CHURDHAR
(Part 6)
Jeet was a little slow or perhaps I was a little too quick and driven by anxiety to complete the journey ASAP. So much that I started to walk faster and started pushing Jeet too. There was a time she started getting left behind and I lost sight of her. 'She must be coming' I thought and kept my bag aside and started waiting at the first campsite. 15 minutes passed by and no signs of her! Panic started to flow in. Where is she! I wondered and had no option but to pick my bag and trek back. The woods were silent and no signs of life around.
I started yelling her name at the top of my voice. Trust me, it wasn't funny anymore.! In the middle of a jungle, absolutely no one around, how am I going to find her. What if she's fallen off the cliff, or eaten by an animal? What am I going to answer. With all those thoughts running in my mind, I kept calling out Jeet but, all in vain. It was already 30-40 minutes and I started remembering all 'I shouldn't be alive' episodes that I've seen on discovery channel! I was literally on the verge of crying when I heard a feeble voice 'Bhaisaaab'. 'Oh Bhaisaaab' and the voice kept increasing until I saw a man running barefoot towards me!
'Woh maidam aapke sath hain?' he asked. (Is that woman with you).
'Haan!! Kidhar hain woh'(where is she)
'Chaliye, piche reh gaye the woh'(come along, she was left behind)
He told me that Jeet had taken a diverging trail and they saw her.
That man, along with another 50-60 male and female pilgrims were also on the way to Churdhar. A five minute walk and I could see Jeet amidst them, munching something and giggling! That was a sigh of relief!
We thanked them and carried on with the trek. This time, ensuring she wasn't left behind. Also, we now had pilgrims with us to accompany. They were with us for most of the time but eventually overtook and disappeared. The trail was quite straightforward and we managed to touch the temple premises a little after sunset. We even met and greeted the people we had earlier met enroute. Since the day had been tiring & eventful, we immediately slept in the dormitories post dinner!
HALF CHURDHAR
(Part 7)
Believe me when I say! I woke up to a few of the most-majestic views ever! The hills looked like containers filled with clouds brimming all over! The ringing bells and chimes of temple in the backdrop, made it serene. And that wasn't it. The main Churdhar Peak was still 2kms from temple premises. Jeet wasn't willing to climb as it was steeper but I wasted no time and climbed in just 45 minutes. The views were breath-taking. Churdhar is the highest peak in Sirmour district and also the highest peak in the outer Himalayas. There wasn't anyone, except a priest who probably stayed there. I stood there, still, letting the moment and views to sink in. Seemed to have conquered myself, and risen above from all worldly pleasures! A feeling I'd cherish forever! For those of you, who've seen 'Yeh Jawani Hai Deewani' can relate it to 'Bunny-Naina' making it to the top of 'Bhuta'. Just that my 'Naina' was long lost in college days!
Of course I couldn't have stayed there forever and had to descend. With handful of memories and pictures, I got down to the temple premises. I had told Jeet to be ready and she was! We started our journey back. Half knowledge is dangerous, and I knew a little about a shorter descending route and decided to try it! The descent was extremely steep and seemed never ending. It took us almost 5-6 hours to reach a deserted, dusty road. And wasn't sure whether to head right or left. While we were scratching our heads, we heard a jeep coming close. We stopped them and asked the way to Noradhar.
For some reason, he laughed and asked us to hop in and said he'll drop us to the road from where we'll need to board a sharing taxi! Something about his laugh was strange. But without giving it much of a thought, we jumped on the back. He took us to a small village Sarah, and pointed towards a taxi stand! We were told to board a taxi to Chopal highway from where we can get a bus to Shimla.
Shimla? Where did that come from?
HALF CHURDHAR
(Part 8)
For the first time in 2 days, my cellphone caught network and I thought I could use Google maps!
Bloody hell! The path we chose brought us to Chopal, which was in opposite direction of Noradhar and 130kms apart! Stunned at the realisation, we seemed to have only 1 option. That was, to baord a bus to Shimla. And from Shimla, board another bus to Chandigarh. We could not have risked heading to Noradhar owing to limited travel options and shortage of cash! So we were taken to the Chopal highway junction where me and Jeet were planning our journey back.
There was a localite who stopped by, seeing us troubled. We told him about our misfortune and he was generous enough to offer us INR 300 as a fare to Shimla since there wasn't any ATM nearby!
Soon the bus came and we were onboard, enroute Shimla. The localite who helped us with money was apparently a good friend of bus conductor and told something to the conductor while we were boarding. I don't know what he said, but as we neared Shimla bus stop, the conductor handed over the money back to me which I had given to him as a fare! With no more misfortunes or set backs or surprises, we finally made it back to Chandigarh!
As they say, it's not the destination that matters the most, but the journey! And in my case, there surely hasn't been a trek without these highs and lows of anxiety and adrenaline! So much that I have now become fond of unprepared-ness, just to see what could possibly go wrong!
As for me, Churdhar was completed in two half-prepared and half-thought attempts and would always be cherished as one of my most endearing adventures.
-----------------------------THE END-----------------------------
