Day 3 in Bali
We did not want to get up early but the alarm clock sounds at 7:30 am. We chose the pancake for breakfast. The truth is that there are a lot of cupcakes with different flavors and aromas. We contacted the travel agency and we went towards Lovina. We set course for Jatiluwih, where we would see the famous rice terraces declared World Heritage by Unesco.
We ate great babi guling in a warung that came recommended in the Lonely Planet on the road that runs through the rice fields! From here the road to Batukaru was horrifying. Finally, we arrive at Pura Batukaru, a temple in the middle of the mountain, little frequented, all green and full of moss, which emanated spirituality and peace. This is one of the sites that are less known, less visited but perhaps more authentic than the most famous.
In Besakih, we had also seen many people praying, but the proportion of tourists and believers was much higher there. Pictures cannot capture the atmosphere of peace that was breathed there. In this temple, we saw a sign in the entrance with restrictions on who could enter and who could not. We found it exaggerated, bordering on the absurd since apart from the typical visitors without sarong or menstruating women there were others like aged people or women whose children still do not have teeth.
From Batukaru on the way, we stop at NungNung waterfalls. We go in the morning to not catch anyone. We parked in front of a warung, and we went down a few steps between the jungle! We passed a small bridge and we see it. It's incredible. There is no one. The rays of the sun creeping upwards bounce off the trees and make a beautiful play of light with the drops of water. It is one of the best surprises I found on this trip.
We spent a long time watching the waterfall. After taking photos begins the great climb! It took us about 20 min to get up. When we got up, there was already some people. We left in course to the first temple of the day located in the Bratan lake. It was the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple, possibly the most emblematic of Bali. It is a very beautiful temple, next to the lake dedicated to the goddess of water Dewi Danu.
We love it, especially because we had the opportunity to attend a ceremony. In this temple, because of what they have told us, it is quite common to find ceremonies that double the reason for visiting it. We spoke with one of the boys who were at the ceremony who spoke English and explained that what they were doing was holding a ritual to enter their new home.
The next stop was the botanical gardens of Bedugul. We were not sure if it was worth wasting time here, so we asked the driver. Since he did not know how to tell us anything, we decided to continue with the initial plan and enter. The most interesting was a small cactus greenhouse of all sizes and shapes.
The walks had opened our appetite so we went to eat. In this case, the driver took us to a restaurant with a terrace overlooking rice fields. The restaurant served a buffet that was quite rich, with the typical dishes like nasi goreng, and grilled meats. But the price as in all the tourist places seemed exaggerated. We paid more than double compared to dinner the day before.
With the stomach full we went up to the town of Kintamani, a beautiful mountainous village from where there is a beautiful view of the Batur volcano and its lake. We arrive at Kedisan, the village that is on the lake. As in all the tourist places, there are enough people in the viewpoint trying to sell everything. Finally, we are going to eat! In this case, we ate in a buffet with incredible views of Batur volcano.
The price of these restaurants is quite higher than in the rest of the country, but it is something to really pay for. We made a small stop in a temple more modest and smaller than Tirta Empul but very similar. We continue our way in the direction of the Munduk waterfall. We leave the car on the road and we go down some stairs that are approaching the jungle.
The descent lasts about 10 minutes and you end up at an access point. The truth is that we went at a very good time so as not to be squared with almost tourists and to be able to enjoy the beautiful waterfall. We climbed the car and returned along the same road we climbed. Here I started to see the Bali that I wanted so much, all very green full of rice fields. We stopped to see a few things.
We also took advantage of the trip to make stops along the way, so we arrived at Lovina in the middle of the afternoon. We stroll along Lovina beach. We were told that there was a boat trip to spot dolphins. I do not remember how much we paid at the hotel for the tour but then walking along the beach we were offered a fish less than half full. There were dozens of boats full of tourists harassing the poor dolphins and we did not leave with a good taste in our mouths.
Our driver picked us up with whom we enjoyed a lot and we started a new route. He told us a thousand things about his religion and Balinese weddings that made us cry with laughter. We begin with the Kroya Falls. There are very little touristy but beautiful. In the end, we dive into a large pool of water where we swim a little.
When we finished bathing in the falls we went to the Lovina market. The market is without tourists and it is a fantastic place to see the different fruits and to get a little bit of the noble art of bargaining. There we tried some of the richest fruits we have eaten. We had been seeing them every day but as we did not know what they were we had not decided to buy.
When we went with our driver he talked to the vendors to give them to try. We bought some of the ones we liked the most, such as the snake fruit that has snakeskin, the rambutan which is a kind of size of a plum and the Dorian, which is a delicious fruit but that smells bad.
As it was time for lunch, the driver took us to an area of very authentic and local restaurants. The truth that it was all very cheap and very good. But the really amazing thing was about to happen. When we were finishing eating with our driver suddenly the cook comes screaming in pain with her hand raised. Our driver gets up and begins to massage her hand. Imagine our face! The driver returns with the cook and puts her rings and necklaces.
After half an hour he tells us that we can leave. We see the cook still a little bad and we tell her that we do not mind waiting a while longer until she gets better. She tells us that she is fine and we can go. When we left we asked him what happened and he told us that she had possessed an evil spirit for not going to pray to the temple.
Now our jaw was dislocated! He is the shaman so he left her half cured. Now what he needs to do is go to the temple to pray at the speed of lightning! This kind of things is incredible in Bali. That's why it is such a different and special island in Indonesia. Its culture, traditions, and beliefs are incredible.
After this kind of movie that we just live, we go to one of the most loved visits in Bali. We see a very small and humble villa in the Lovina Mountains where its inhabitants live on bamboo. It's called Tigawasa Village. The inhabitants of Tigawasa are considered the original and oldest of the island of Bali.
They make their own interpretation of the religion and even speak a language different from the normal Balinese. There we visited a local house that they are building with bamboo and we see some very nice women doing the typical Balinese bamboo baskets. Of course, we bring one for home. We love the visit and being able to help a little buying some souvenir from the locals.
We went north, as we passed through Pemuteran. We enjoyed the beach and we continued on our way to see from afar the Menjangan Island. It is very famous for snorkeling, diving, and its good beaches. We wanted to see the sunset at a famous Tanah temple so we took photos and continued.
In the afternoon we stopped by the road to have food with spaghetti, chicken, salads with delicious natural juices. We decided to stop at a typical surfing beach even though it was a bad day until it started to rain. Medewi beach was very cool.
After a couple of hours or more of traffic and a torrential rain, we arrived at the Tanah Lot temple. This temple is the most touristic in the country for its spectacularity. The part closest to the entrance has a temple in the rock that by the erosion produced by the sea has been shaped like a bridge. Tanah Lot is one of the prime tourist spots in Bali. It is full of people, since it is close to Kuta, and that spoils it a bit.
We paid the entry fee and enjoyed taking a walk. We see the waves break in the temples and the cliffs. We finally arrived at the panorama we had been waiting for. We had seen lots of photos but nothing like seeing live. It was a day with a lot of waves which made us more impressed to see how something constructed so long ago resisted the onslaught of the sea. We saw the sunset from the beach and then from above.
We went down with the rest of the people but we could not go to the temple because of the state of the sea and we headed to Ubud. When I got out of the car it was as if the magic was lost. Back in Ubud, we were quite tired. So we booked an appointment at 8 pm at the spa cum massage center that we had on the sidewalk in front of the hotel.
The spa had a pick-up service and although we were very close they came to pick us up. They received us with an infusion and gave us the choice of the oil that we liked the most for the massage. I gave myself a facial massage and foot reflexology. At the time we were blessed with a Balinese massage by an adorable lady. We then shower in a beautiful stone shower.
We left the spa and we are in a cloud. We do not know whether to go to sleep or dinner. We return to the pizzeria. This time we have a plate of spaghetti. After the massage and spaghetti, we crawled to the bungalow. It's early but tomorrow we have to get up early that we have a new stage!
The truth is that today's tour was well worth it. That night I slept fatally as the light went out of my room.