The mellow aroma of shiuli flowers floating in the breeze, the fervour of dhunuchi naach, and the delight of nolen gurer nadu - if you're a Bengali, you can relate to this!
Pujo season is near, and we can already sense the excitement. A festive spirit pervades the land as different parts of India prepare for their own celebrations of the Goddess Durga. Durga Puja in Bengal is a five-day extravaganza of splendour and joy.
In Kolkata, the festivities are tinged with a pinch of nostalgia as they unfold in the majestic halls and courtyards of the old aristocratic mansions A.K.A. bonedi baris. These Bonedi Bari Durga Pujas are like living museums, preserving their rituals that have outlived centuries and standing still as a true testament to the test of time.
Every year, these bonedi baris open their hearts to everyone during the five days of extravaganza, inviting visitors to experience their timeless traditions.
So, here we've narrowed down a list of some of the historic Bonedi Bari Pujas in Kolkata that you can't miss if you're in the city this October!
1. Jorasanko Daw Bari
The Shibkrishna Daw house in Jorasanko, North Kolkata, with its splendid 'thakur dalan' (public courtyard) and columns, has been a backdrop for many movie scenes. Its customary Durga Puja celebration was initiated by the father of Shibkrishna Daw, a businessman, in 1840 but only became a famous festival under his son.
Address: 12, Shib Krishna Daw Ln, Raja Katra, Singhi Bagan, Jorasanko, Kolkata, West Bengal 700007
2. Sovabazar Raj Bari
One of the oldest Durga Pujas in North Kolkata, the Sovabazar Raj Bari dazzles the visitors every year with its splendid display. The first celebration goes back to more than 200 years ago, when Raja Nabkrishna Deb, the founder of the present Deb Family, celebrated the victory of the English East India Company in the Battle of Plassey in 1757. It is said that he even invited Robert Clive to join him. A unique feature of this bonedi bari puja is that it shows Durga's vahana (vehicle) as a horse, instead of a lion.
Address: Raja Nabakrishna St, Raja Nabakrishna Street, Sovabazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700004
3. Atchala Bari
Did you know that Kolkata was born after the East India Company bought the villages of Gobindapur, Sutanati and Kalikata in 1698? They were sold by the zamindar Sabarna Roy Choudhury family, who started their Durga Puja celebration in their Barisha home in 1610, before the city came into being. Today, eight different pujas are held by various branches of the family. But the Atchala Durga Puja, at the original family site, is the most famous.
Address: F8J4+2JP, Sakher Bazar, Sabarna Para Rd, Subodh Pally, Paschim Barisha, Kolkata, West Bengal 700008
4. Laha Bari
You may have glimpsed Laha Bari in Piku, Parineeta and Love Aaj Kal. The ancestral nest of the Laha family, its historic Durga Puja celebrations sprouted over 140 years ago by the patriarch, Bhabani Charan Laha. A painter himself, he (and later his descendants) morphed into admirers of priceless art (like that of Hemen Mukherjee) and jewels, which adorn the bonedi bari’s royal walls.
Address: Laha Bari, 167/4/1, Bidhan Sarani Rd, Manicktala, Darjipara, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006
5. Rani Rashmoni Bhawan
A celebrated benefactor, social reformer and the founder of Dakshineshwar Temple, Rani Rashmoni made a lasting impression on Bengal’s history. The Durga Puja that’s held in her residence in Janbazar, near Esplanade, is equally glorious and is entering its 233rd year. After she departed in 1861, her daughters resolved to continue the tradition and celebrate the festival in their two distinct mansions.
Address: H964+X4Q, SN Banerjee Road, Esplanade, Janbazar, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700013
So, what are you thinking? Add these historic Bonedi Baris to your itinerary right now if you're in town and want to have the best Kolkata experience ever!
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