We could not make it to Chittorgarh, our target for the second day. Instead, we took a pit stop at Hotel Ajanta Palace in Ratlam, the city in Madhya Pradesh well-known for its sweet and spicy namkeens. Reaching late worked out in our favor because we had an unwelcome guest with us, neatly tucked in her travel crate, making her seem like nothing more than an extra bag - a bag that would stir and bark when neglected. Azal took her for a walk later so that she could relieve her bowels before getting cozy in bed. The next morning, we bought some Ratlami Sev from one of the shops near the railway station before heading out to the highway. Sammy's stardom first evidenced when we stopped for breakfast that morning. She attracted admirers wherever she went with her large emotive eyes sparkling with awe and her painfully wrinkled face radiating an innocence mankind has long forfeited.