KINNAUR-SPITI MOTORCYCLE DIARIES

It all started on a good movie day, wind was very good and I was feeling the mountain breeze already. I wanted to watch a movie on Tibet for so long now. I had a glimpse of Tibet mountains when I visited changthang region in Ladakh. "Seven years in Tibet" gave me the exact push needed for kinnaur and spiti. I started doing itinerary preparations, routes and within one day I had a hand map drawn on paper. Next week spent in getting bike ready and after reading articles on DOW, my detailed itinerary was ready. In a week’s time, I was ready to leave for a solo ride in the toughest terrain of Himalayas.

I am writing this by listening to a Russian rock music band ‘Nautilus Pompilius”. This boy only got mountains, music and movies on his mind.

It feels so good to wear my touring jacket and gloves once again. On the first day, I rode straight to Bir, my recent favorite destination in lower himachal. Next day, I started towards Shoja in seraj valley. From here on, all the roads and places are new to me. Shoja has views similar to that of Pangi valley in chamba. Monsoon has just begun and made the weather very pleasant to ride. Tall mountains and lenticular clouds looks so close that one can feel them fully and it also gives a sense of satisfaction at the same time by being so grand in front of us. I am very happy now, I am surrounded by clouds and mountains. I am riding uphill for a very long time now and weather getting colder and views getting more elaborated. Soon I reached Jalori pass at an elevation of 3120 meters and climbed down slowly and unzipped my jacket to have a bit of romance with the wind.

I stayed at a Homestay, run by a couple. Both were into tourism together. She was a guide and he a tour organizer. We had lot of conversations about different motorbike routes. He has done lot of motor biking in Kashmir which I want to do in future especially after listening to his stories. In morning, I filled my water bottles with Jalori water as much as I can and started riding. It was raining heavily and still a bit dark. I had all the rain gear I needed, to cover myself and my luggage. I covered myself in all the polyester and started descending down. Traffic was zero and views were different, clouds playing hide and seek and framing the mountains perfectly. This is it, all alone on the road, light headed under my helmet, eyes filled with mountains and clouds, body in perfect posture, nothing on the back of my head, rain drops hitting into my eyes from opened visor. I am floating and bending on those beautiful mountain curves and I don’t remember anyone now.

Even after careful examination by many mechanics, my bike had a breakdown but luckily at the right time in Rampur. From here, risky ride to kinnaur starts. Eco system of kinnaur valley is very fragile. Many landslides and shooting stone zones. Rain was unstoppable that day. I have been riding in the rain for too long, my inner layers have started getting wet. Polyester have saved me enough but not anymore. This was going to be my longest ride in heavy rain. I have started around 7 in the morning and was riding and riding. I didn’t want to stop as this is the first rain of the monsoon and mountains will take their time to become lose and fragile, that was what I was thinking. I can spot many fallen stones on the road and stories start haunting.

I reached Karcham at six and met another solo rider from MP. It was only 35kms of ride left and rain has stopped. Enjoying the vistas, we ridded slowly on the dirt tracks and reached at twilight. At Rakchham views were mesmerizing, clouds have made the landscape heavenly. We took and absorbed the landscape for around 15 minutes and went straight to Zostel. It was a messy, tiring day with all the wet clothes and shoes.

I hardly care about accommodation at this point, just a bed and a well-ventilated room. We had a dinner and slept after chit chatting with our fellow gujju roommates. I was hearing a lot about Nepal. First spiti than I will think about Nepal. I sleep first and better think about mountains later. I am surrounded by mountains and more mountains are building inside my head from all the stories. Even after all the tiredness, sleep was not near to me. From head I remember lines from a movie "Naked", “Cos when ya are inside, yer still actually outside aren't ya. And then you can say when you're outside, you're inside because you're always inside yer head.” Mike Leigh said it right.

I came back to my room to get camera after a quick jog in the morning. After 3 days of long ride, I was at ease. From here on, I am going to be travelling at slow pace. There was a religious function in the village, people from other villages have gathered in their traditional customs. All were working together, some in kitchen, some in cleaning and some supervising. Few ladies saw camera in my hand and requested for picture in front of the temple. It was a pleasure photographing beautiful ladies of Sang-la.

Weather was sunny and body a bit lazy from yesterday ride. We started slowly without any destination goal. I got company today may be tomorrow also. We have crossed the last petrol pump already and was standing along a military truck. They had a breakdown, I was assisting them in providing tools. We went back for fuel fill up. After instructions from army man about careful riding in this stretch, we put our asses back to our motorbikes. There is a stream, few kms after crossing the last petrol pump, I love to have water from that stream again.

Now there is this turn to the right, and I couldn’t ride further. I haven’t seen a mountain more beautiful than this, may be in Zanskar but I don’t remember or may be art can’t be compared. I can feel the current in my chest moving and my composed breath. I was numb; mountain looked like a Godzilla sitting with his back towards me. From here on, landscape was changing after every few kms and I have never seen anything like it. So much beauty, that I can’t take it. I won’t be speaking today and will sleep with my eyes open. Best part was the roads, freshly constructed and shining in black.

We are standing at a bridge and on my right, clouds have covered the mountains. And after few minutes, I got the glimpse of the mountains behind the clouds, which has needle like formation and I was not expecting them there at all. How can that be. It was completely different from the other mountains I crossed. I am standing there and having different landscape on all of my sides. Beauty was hitting me from every angle. There is a dirt track going toward those mountains’ direction but I have no time now. I was stopping frequently to take pictures, as we climbed towards Nako, views keep on surprising us.

Nako village is the most beautiful village I have ever seen, surrounded 360 by sedimentary type mountains. They have impressions on them that some parts of the mountain look shady under the sun. Beauty is beyond words and pictures. As they say, some movies and music can only be experienced rather understood. We stayed at Rikpa homestay, a kind soul was serving us and was making us feel at home. Food was excellent and their traditional dinning area too. Next day was full of energy as we met more riders, doctors from Bengal. One more good thing about cold desert mountains is that the days are longer here. One can ride in daylight till 8.

Next day, we reached Tabo by noon; I must not mention hospitality given by Himachal people again and again because this always remains a constant. After a quick lunch, we started riding towards Dhankar. Landscape started opening up with wide angles views. We ascended the dhankar monastery in an hour. We put our luggage at a restaurant inside the monastery and started hiking towards Dhankar Lake, 90 minutes hike up and down. I had a very special moments of silence on my hike, moments of wilderness and solitude. Lake is situated at 4140m elevation, water was not much but views were captivating. After our return, we were late for Mud, it was already 06:30 in the evening and another off-roading for 50 kms. After crossing the bridge for Mud, dark started to settle in. This route is offbeat and we have to ride in the dark but we will take our chances. As it was supposed to happen, road was totally off road and no sign of humans and vehicles; not even a single source of light. The silence of the nature is frightening in the dark but as we kept on ascending, my energy was hitting its peak. I was riding fast, just like an off-riding should be done and left my fellow rider very far back. It was those moments of riding when everything is in good control and focus very high. By nine, we were in Mud. It’s a very small village with very few homes and accommodation only available are homestays. Two beautiful treks start from Mud; one goes to Pin Parvati pass and ends at Pārbati valley. Second, Bhaba pass trek which ends in kinnaur valley.

Next Morning, after exploring mud we were in kaza in no time. I keep on strolling the streets of kaza to find an accommodation. Riding in narrow streets is always fun. I settled in noon at Middle Land homestay, it was located down the road from the monastery. Run by two boys, one was from Langza where I will ride day after tomorrow. Homestay was made of mud in tradition style with low ceiling height to trap heat in winters. I had a continuous pain from the past one day in my thumb nail which goes up to my arm and it was not easy to accelerate with all the pain. My bike shocker was also gone because of careless riding yesterday evening. Two days of rest will do to take care of my bike and thumb nail pain. And now comes the most luxurious part of the trip, where I do nothing for the whole day. I wake up, go for a hike up the monastery, sometime takes mangoes along with me to eat at the top and then come down. I did this morning and evening for 3 full days. From top, you get a very good view of Kaza both old and new. After breakfast, I went exploring the market and later had lunch at Middle Land, after lunch we all sat together outside under the tree shades and it was very relaxing. Sitting under the tree shade, I was looking at the building and it was so simple and beautiful. Windows outlined by black paint from outside, single block going till first floor, they have lot of open space outside and 3-4 huge trees. Market is very easily accessible and homestay was located away from the crowds. A stream flowing adjacent to homestay and other side of the stream few homes and above Kaza-Batal road. In the evening I had my sea buckthorn juice at ecosphere and then a beer and then I hike again to monastery top. After reaching at top, I sat there till twilight having a mango and a snicker bar and return back at dusk. After dinner, we listened to music till midnight and then went back to our den.

I have rested enough now, I have to explore nearby. My bike got repaired and in the morning I left for Langza-Komik-hikkim circuit. I reached Langza in an hour, landscape has changed totally. I am surrounded by plateau shaped mountains and roads have been cut beautifully. Some mountains have very beautiful shades. It must be very beautiful in winters. This landscape is very similar to Tibet landscape. The name “Spiti” means “The middle land”, the land between Tibet and India.

From Langza, I reached komik which is the highest village of spiti at 4510m. On my return, my bike stopped picking acceleration, I tried changing carburetor setting and cleaned air filters but nothing. I was about to transport it down on Tempo But after doing one last setting with RPM, I was able to ride it down. By the evening, I was back to middle land. I had very good conversation with Tawang, how they handle winter cold, food storage and festivals in winters. Down the middle land, after crossing the bridge one hike towards the Kaza-Batal road, just above the houses and few meters ahead is Spiti souvenir shop. One of the best places to shop for stones and local handmade articles in kaza.

The pain in the thumb and arm kept on increasing. After Losar, I am going in for a big surprise. There are literally no roads and most of the time I will be riding on the river bed with n number of water crossings. I was ready for it and excited too. I reached Losar soon; roads have been constructed very well till Losar. I have found dirt tracks only on the offbeat locations, other than that roads are very well maintained by BRO. After crossing Losar, ascend starts for Kunzum pass which is at 4540m elevation connecting Spiti valley with Lahaul valley. The real riding skill starts from here. For 4 wheelers it is more challenging. I am trusting my Yamaha not to stop while ascending or when big stones come on the way. After a bumpy ride of 1 hour I was on the top, clicked few pictures and got down. Ride is not at all smooth all the way, it keeps on getting worse. After taking diversion for Chandra Taal, I have to cross a big nallah, its knee deep with loose stones underneath. It is the biggest water crossing in this stretch. All riders stopped and were helping each other crossing it. I saw many four wheelers returning in fear and getting stuck in water crossing. Even 4x4 was getting stuck. Water crossings are a matter of luck and driving, some drive small car easily and some gets stuck with their 4x4 also. After another big water crossing, I was at the check post by two. By three, I was at beautiful Chandra taal. Views are beautiful with snowcapped mountains. I walked along the lake periphery for an hour and by the evening, retuned back to our tents.

We all sat together after dinner and was talking about horrors of roads and water crossings. Next day, was more challenging with more pain in the ass roads and never-ending water crossings. My Yamaha has performed very well, many big heavy bikes were under performing in those conditions but 150cc Yamaha was unstoppable. Real test will be tomorrow.

I woke up at 7 and it was raining, no sign of sun and clouds allover. Making the already challenged route more haunting. I have to ride in rain wear again, I won’t be waiting for the rain to stop. There is a risk of going because I won’t be getting any help if I got stuck in any water crossing. I started riding at 7:30 and reached batal in no time. I easily crossed both the water crossings but my feet were all wet. One cannot avoid getting the feet wet while crossing the streams. My shoes were all soaked up in glacial water but every pain was hidden underneath the excitement. I stopped for breakfast at Chacha-Chachi dhabha. I sat near the heater to get dried a little but what’s the use, it was still raining. I was in high energy and I shouldn’t stop. Chacha-Chachi advised me to take rest and wait for the rain to stop. But I wanted to ride. I left after having my last snicker bar and an energy drink which never gave me energy but body needs some fluids. It was very difficult for me to accelerate as my pain wouldn’t let my thumb work. My riding gloves are all wet, this time polyester didn’t last long and water started going inside my layers. If I close the helmet visor, it was collecting fog and if I open it, rain was hitting my eyes. Roads have vanished very long back and now off roads have also vanished. Now comes the river bed, where suddenly you will escape one stone and another comes. And water is all over the road from the streams, sky and god knows from where. I was riding alongside Chenab which was almost on the same level of the road surface. I keep on calling it a road which is an insult, I couldn’t find a right word for that surface. Under all these conditions, one has to loosen his body and arms and ride steadily. No rigidity in arms, let the handle go where the jump from the stones land you. In life too, rigidity is of no use.

As again, I was all alone on the road. I hardly saw any vehicle, only few four wheelers. All the way I was talking to myself inside my helmet space, this adventure is unbeatable. This is my longest off-roading ever and its pretty fucking awesome. All I am hearing is sound of the rain and river flowing alongside me and all I can see is water crossings, clouds, rain drops and river bed on which I am riding. So many times, my foot was in deep glacial waters, I can not feel my foot anymore and my hands were going numb too. My energy was still high but there comes a point when you say no more water crossings please, I have enough. But they don’t go away and in few crossings, water is so dirty that one cannot judge the depth at all. I have changed my socks thrice but again a crossing comes. Time has come to rest, I was feeling very cold and couldn’t concentrate. After crossing chhatru, there is a dhabha on the left, I stopped, removed all of my rainwear and went straight to the stove. I removed all of my wet clothes and shoes and put them near the heat. I rested there for around 45 minutes and after my lunch I began riding again. It shouldn’t take this much time but rain has spoiled the roads, making difficult to ride under these circumstances. I changed my socks again but lady told that last water crossing is still left which is the most problematic and called Pagal Nallah. Lady took good care of me.

Sun started to come out and rain was stopped. Pagal Nallah is very long with big uneven stones; water was not that much deep as BRO just putted a pipeline to make water cross underneath the road. Many four wheelers return back from this nallah itself. Still few kms of off-roading and then I will be on the highway. I will see the road after 2 days. I will still call Sach pass ascent toughest but this is equally challenging and lengthy. There is no height danger involved here, only pain in the ass roads and never-ending water crossings. It was a roller coaster ride. By the evening, I was in old Manali. Next day, I rode to my friends’ home in jari, kullu. My thumb had swollen from all the sides, it was badly infected. I had a pleasant time at my friend's home, I had an urge of going to waichin valley but the rain never stopped.

Next day, I left for Bir and I have to go see a doctor. At Tibetan hospital, I was screaming with pain when they were using needles on my swollen thumb and taking the pus out. I should have seen a doctor a week before. I was exhausted from all the pain and came to room and slept. I stayed in bir for 2 days and came to Patiala on the third day. Last day ride is always the longest and hardest. Now hard part is acclimatizing again to low altitudes. I will be dreaming of mounatins for many weeks until I go back again. This is my life. Plan a trip, ride, segregate pictures, write trip stories and then plan again.

I have written last day of my ride in Lahaul-spiti valley in a single stretch and I felt the same quench that I got at that time. I hope you got that quench too. Cheers!