‘How organic is organic enough for you’? - have you ever given this a thought!
As Hippocrates had once stated “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food” – a philosophy followed to the “T” by this farm stay which is just 2-hr drive from Borivali.
Dedicated to serving food with naturally grown vegetables and fruits, welcome to Aatmann Dahanu – that stays very true to its tagline “From Nature With Nature”!
I came across this farm stay due to an official collaboration and found their dedication towards this project so endearing that I decided to give them a visit. Once our availability aligned, I was off to Dahanu for the second time in 10 days!
Although I was looking forward to the stay (with its all-organic, minimum use of cement), I wasn’t sure of what to expect over there apart from an elaborte farm tour. But again, how big can the farm be?
Now that I am writing about it, I am not ashamed to accept that I was in for a surprise and that too a pleasant one! And here I am going to share why!!
The Property
Tugged away right on the main road with the name on a board and nothing else, you can easily miss and drive past it (even with the map on!). As you make your way through the first gate, drive for a km before you get to the second gate and “your destination is here”.
Placed strategically at the centre, which is also the highest point of the farm, the stay is spread over 3 acres. Sectioned into two parts – one that houses the family and deluxe rooms and the other that accommodates the cottages, plunge pool, treehouse, gazebo and cafeteria.
About The Host Who Has Traveled The World
A well-travelled man who has covered more than 80 countries and wants to spread the word of “real organic” Mr. Ajay Baphna is a 6th generation farmer who has put his mind and soul into creating Aatmann Dahanu. His elder son Sampann Baphna, currently studying in Australia is equally dedicated and motivated to take up after his father.
The labour of three months in naming the property and eventually Sampann came up with “Aatmaan” that portrays the perfect blend of “Aatmaa” meaning “soul” (the ‘aatmaa’ of Punamchandji Dhanrajji Baphna, Ajayji’s grandfather who had immensely inspired him with his sustainable and organic means of living) and “Mann” meaning “mind” (Ajayji’s). A tribute of a dedicated grandchild to his grandfather’s dream – this clarity of thought coming from a 23-year is such a rarity but goes on to show the depth of love and respect that he carries for his family.
What once was famously quoted by William Skakespeare, which literally questions the whole existence of a name needs a reality check because a “name “is what we identify the place with, as well as the ideologies and moralities it stands for. And this place is a testament to that.
The Abode of The Mind & Soul
Just speaking about “the stay” is not adequate to describe the essence of this place.
Although there are three options that include cottages, deluxe rooms, and family rooms but the cottages steal the show. The three cottages are named Ketaki or Maa Saraswati, Hazara or Maa Laxmi and Aparajita or Maa Parvati. Personal attention has been extended to every part of every cottage, ensuring that every piece brought together compliments each other.
Made of teakwood with “zero” cement and plywood, pillows infused with neem leaves, mattresses made out of long-staple organic cotton mat near the footboard of the bed made with coir, jute and cotton rope to provide acupressure (each of which took nearly 5-6 months to complete the weave) – this place lives and breathes organic lifestyle. And the floor crafted not from the usual tile but solid bricks that aren’t slippery and can accommodate easy strides.
Many farmstays use asbestos roofing sheets which traps heat leading to increased temperature inside making it unbearable to stay indoors. Unlike them, the cottages have terracotta rooves that do not trap heat, keeping the interiors cool.
The hand sanitizer, room freshener and even the mosquito repellent is concocted in-house.
The cherry on top is the toiletries that they offer – shampoos, hair oil, face wash, hair cleaner is all made with herbs and every item is labeled with ingredients.
What this farmstay has been mindful about and what you tend to miss in almost all properties is a ramp for the handicapped. It has been thoughtfully crafted and not just a replaceable one. They have built it as a part of the structure.
Evaluating The Organic Authenticity of This Space
And the organic authenticity of his space has not been certified by any Indian Company. He called upon Geneva Organic Trade Society and bore expenses from his pocket mounting to around 33 lakhs where he accommodated the experts for a tenure of three months. Why? For the authentic certification!
Ajayji invited Pius Floris, an internationally renowned agricultural soil consultant (also known as “soil doctor”) to check the soil health of his farm. In order for the soil to be in the “pinkest of health”, it should have the right amounts of minerals and microbes which was tested and accordingly certified by the soil doctor!
The Nuances of The Place That Will Blow Your Mind
• The 135-year old piano where the keys are made of ivory that belonged to Ajayji’s great grandfather remains intact and he proudly flaunts it.
• There were curtains made with the local seashells of Dahanu. Unfortunately, they were completely damaged by some guests (kindly respect the property of the owners and do not damage their assets).
• Their heirlooms at every corner.
• Local handicraft.
The Sprawling Farm
This boundless acre of farmland not only generates a variety of fruits but also grows vegetables for their daily to serve freshly prepared food. The farm also has 2 humongous wells.
This expansive farm has a collection of more than 70 fruits!! And of course a lot of vegetables and spices too.
1. 23 varieties of banana of which 9 varieties are of elaichi bananas.
2. Cherries
3. Queen pineapples – unlike the long form that are hybrid, these are the stout ones which are very hard to find these days.
4. Coconuts
5. Starfruit
6. Karwanda
7. Custard apple
8. Italian lemons – which are seedless
9. Papaya
10. Phalsa – juice is very healthy – antioxidant
11. 56 varities of mangoes – Kesar mangoes are 400 gms each
12. Amla
13. Jackfruits
14. Kanistan
15. Lady finger/ Okra
16. Chickoo
17. Raini or khirni from Bengal but found in the jungles of Dahanu too
18. Lichees
19. Gunda or lesuda
20. Yellow watermelon – eaten mostly by Adivasi
21. Fresh honey harvested – 12 litres one comb
22. Haldi made at home
23. Star apple – from Fiji
24. Butter fruit
25. Pomelo
26. Egg fruit – from Mexico
27. White onion
28. Pink Custard apple
29. Anota seeds which they used to colour jalebis – a lakh a kg
30. Kala jamun
31. White and pink jamun
32. Sham Tulsi
33. Bay leaf – the pink leaf ones have the best nutritional value and used in herbal juices that are prepared in the morning, just 2 leaves for one jar of juice.
34. Vicks plant
35. Mulberry
36. Bilambi – this is the natural Amla which has been prevalent since the days of Mahabharata. The round Amla that everyone is informed about is the hybrid variety.
37. Cucumber
38. Turmeric
38. Bottle gourd
39. Bitter gourd
40. Snake gourd
41. Sweet potato - Do you know you can even cook the leaves?
42. Tomato
A shed where one can rest if one gets tired of walking around the farm.
The Cafeteria With The Modern & Traditional Mix
The first thing one sees when you enter the main property is the cafeteria. Tastefully decorated with tribal-style hangings, chairs made from tissues derived from banana, papaya and bamboo and not the customary polyester weave. Exquisitely designed Mandala’s by Ajayji’s wife remains proudly displayed around the cafeteria.
The Pinteresty Gazebo
Where they serve high-tea and morning digestive herbal juice. And a library where avid readers can sit for hours at end.
The Treehouse Which Brings Out The Child in You
My first encounter with the concept of one was in the fifth grade while reading The Swiss Family Robinson where they constructed a treehouse.
And the one at Aatmann took me back to my childhood days. The one here actually looks and feels like one unlike all other places where living chambers are constructed and loses the charm of an actual treehouse. And there’s a slide on one side to put your legs to rest and slide down the chute!
The Outdoor Pool With A Jacuzzi – Open Your Chakras with Resplendence
Sampann’s brainchild which took months of planning and detailing of every corner. which has vents on the pool floor to open all the chakras of one’s body.
And that’s not all! There’s a jacuzzi too!
If you ask me, I had no intention of leaving the pool. With the jacuzzi placed wisely placed at lengths that would massage the back and calves (every persons’ pain points), sitting inside the pool with the sea of stars looking down upon me – it was bliss (I wish all lights were off so that I could just float and watch the stars shooting across the dark sky)!
The Rainwater Harvesting Pond
Earlier the pond was ploughed to a depth of 9 feet deep which was later dug deeper to 14-feet to meet the steady supply of water. The water from the pond is recycled and goes to the filtration pump and used. It also adds to the aesthetic allure of the property with pretty lotus growing across the pond.
The Much-Needed Organic Detox
When we speak of detox it essentially refers to internal ones that includes food items that would cleanse your body of impurities and Ajayji, his mom and family have taken great care to deliver that.
Food
Wherever I go, food has always been my priority. And when I say I love food – I genuinely mean it. Being a Bengali, flavours rule my palate and that remains my forever concern.
But if I may, food here is indeed the USP of this place. I have been to places which boasted of serving “local food” and then I found “paneer lababdar, butter chicken and naan” on my plate!
But what they offer here is authentic to Dahanu – locally produced (of course in their farm or procured from Adivasis) and prepared in the customary way that has been followed through generations.
What blew my mind was Ajayji’s knowledge of what is to be served to the guests – be it breakfast, lunch or dinner. Not only is he well-informed of the list of dishes that are going to be served to the guests but also the elements that go into preparing the dishes.
No white sugar or white salt is used. As a substitute of sugar, jaggery is used and rock salt is used instead of white-grain salt. And they use a lot of Tulsi (basil) in their food items.
The menu keeps changing daily. Some of the food items that were served during my stay are:
Breakfast
• Starts with a herbal juice that builds immunity and appetite and then comes the variety.
• Dry fruits, chawanprash (homemade), honey (Ahimsa-honey – extracted without causing any harm to the bees. Only when the bees leave the hive, is the honey collected and NOT by burning or smoking the hive).
• Home-made cookies.
• Ussal & Vada – removed pao, they do serve bread but that’s made in-house with jowari, bajri, wheat and 7 seeds. They don’t use flour in anything. Even to raise it (called leavening) oats and curd are used. Pasta and noodles are made with millets.
• Darpe local (local) – Unlike the usual poha that is made with potatoes and takes around 5 minutes to cook, Darpe poha is approximately a three-hour affair where the poha, after washing with water is spread to over a cloth and dried, post which grated coconut is added to it and mixed well with fried cashews and nuts.
• Mithi Bhakri (I was completely blown by it!).
• Khatti Bhakri.
• Cupcakes at times.
• Fruits are also served.
What you see in the picture is not even a quarter of what they actually serve. I was focused on eating so I did not engage much in taking pictures!
Lunch
• Four types of salads
• Varieties of vegetable items
• Roti/Rice
• Papad
• Four types of pickle
• Khandvi
High tea
• Juice
• Coffee (their coffee does not contain white sugar)
• Sandwiches
Dinner
• Soups – They had prepared lemon coriander soup and drumstick soup when I had visit and they were yummy.
• Noodles – Though it takes time to prepare millet noodles and pasta but its good for the health of the people.
• Lemon rice – not made with lemon powder (made this way in most places) but with actual lemon.
• Paneer item (not lababdar!!)
• Mouth-watering desserts and it is difficult to fathom that these are made without sugar!!
Aatmann believes in “zero wastage”. No food goes to the bin. The food that is left over goes to the staff. Usually nothing is leftover because food is cooked according to the number of guests and staff. You can even check the dustbins, you won’t find any food thrown away.
“Food” for Thought - How much produce may be wasted in India? Have you ever given this a thought? It is around 40%! As per United Nations report food wastage in India is around INR 92,000 crores per annum but the irony is 190 million still remain undernourished. So, think before you waste!
How do You Know That The Food Served Is Organic
Ajayji has had guests who are cancer-survivors to whom any adulterated food would cause mouth ulcers but here they have consumed food without any such incident. The reason for this is because, after chemo even a tiny speck of chemical consumption would cause ulcers in their mouth.
Things to Remember During Your Stay
• Enjoy exclusively vegetarian and organic cuisine during your stay – Please note non-vegetarian dishes are not served here so respect it and do not order non-veg meals from outside too.
• Strict Policy to be followed – The premises maintain a strict no-smoking, no-gambling, and no-alcohol policy.
• Meal timings – Meals are served at fixed timings, ensuring freshly cooked dishes with maximum nutrition.
• Organic toiletries – To preserve the ecological system, they do not provide conventional toiletries, but offer necessary organic alternatives.
• Respect for wildlife – Embrace the local wildlife, including insects, reptiles, and other creatures, and your cooperation and tolerance towards them is requested. Show kindness to the natural flora and fauna around the property, helping to preserve the environment.
• Do Not Waste Food – Food wastage is discouraged, recognizing the time and effort it takes to grow the ingredients.
• Experience the embrace of nature, as you enter a place that prioritizes the environment over commercialization.
• Outside food not allowed - Please refrain from bringing outside food onto the Aatmann Dahanu premises to maintain their eco-friendly standards.
• Respect the eco-system & landscape – Their location is an eco-fragile zone, and they take great care not to disturb the surrounding wildlife. So, respect the same.
• The purest organic ingredients for both cooking and daily living.
• The Aatmann Dahanu team holds the rights of admission and expulsion to protect our precious environment. Your cooperation is greatly appreciated.
The Seminars Organised By Aatmann Dahanu
They organize seminars 6 times a year where they invite dignitaries and farmers and Aatmann works on it where the complete expenses of the dignitaries are borne by Aatmann and meals are provided to all 200 people. That’s their NGO’s work. They are trying to create awareness to stay away from chemicals and pesticides.
In a world where people are gifting cancer through chemically induced food, fruits and vegetables, Aatmann wants to spread the word of growing food the natural way without the addition of even an ounce of chemical.
Organic Items That You Can Buy From There
Ajayji’s mother runs an NGO that also prepares a lot of products that one can buy which includes millet noodles, cookies, ghee, and I did purchase quite a few items from them.
Best Time to Visit
Anytime of the year.
You may feel summers will be smoldering. It is but people visit even during those times to enjoy the freshness of the summer fruits.
Considering a drop in temperature, monsoons and winters are ideal for a visit.
How to Reach
By Road:
From Borivali the farmstay is 110 km away which is a 2-hr drive.
By Air:
Nearest airport is Mumbai Airport which is around 127 kms from the farmstay, which is a little over a 3-hr drive.
By Train:
This is the easiest and most affordable way to travel to Dahanu. There are a lot of local trains to travel to Dahanu. Download the app called m-indicator and check for the train timings.
Booking Contact:
Aatmann Dahanu has a heart!
It is not often that you get to stay at a place where the owner takes immense pleasure in taking personal care of his guests - where each item has been handpicked by the owners, where each corner speaks of the compassion with which it has been thoughtfully designed and where the owner sits and speaks to the guests and looks after their needs. Its astonishing!
I have immense respect for those who stay true to their roots and are steadfast in their principles. During my conversations with Ajayji what struck the most was his passion for his land and in no way he he ready to compromise on the quality of food or amenities just to meet the demands of the market. And he enjoys the process of helping people become aware of the benefits of organic living.
In case you are someone who wants to enjoy the process of detoxing, solitude and bliss away from the cacophony of Mumbai, then head to this place.
But if you plan on partying and drinking, this is NOT the place for you.
With your positivity and kindness, leave behind an impression that will serve as a reminder of your conscious efforts to maintain the sanctity of this space!
This article was previously published on my travel site - wanderalone.
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