Prelude
We hiked to Phuktal Monastery, Zanskar (Also called Phugtal Monastery) during September - October, 2017. We were a group of 4 people. We stayed overnight at Phuktal. And started our return journey, roughly around 9AM.
The following incident happened, while we were hiking back from Phuktal Monastery.
Cha Village was still roughly 2-2.5 kilometers away. The group had split into two. Deepti and Roopam were walking ahead, and Pooja and I were trailing some 100 meters behind.
And while walking, I heard a sound. I paused for a moment. It was no ordinary sound.
Pooja immediately turned around and asked me, “Did you hear that sound?”
I nodded.
She asked, “Is that a…….”
I cut her in between and said, “Yup” while nodding again.
I hadn’t finished nodding and we heard the same sound again.
It was a howl. A wolf’s howl. A wolf howls to communicate to others that it’s their territory. They howl to tell others to stay away. They also howl to find their pack.
I looked upwards. Towards the source of the sound. But the brown mountains are a perfect camouflage for the creatures that belong there. Even if I wasn’t able to them, I was sure they are watching every step we are taking.
I saw a sense of fear tingling in Pooja.
The best possible thing to do was to move together in a group. But both of them were at least a 100 meters ahead of us. Calling them would have meant shouting, which the wolf (or the wolves) could also take as a challenge. But, there was no other way out. I shouted and asked the others to halt. I knew the wolves are listening to as well.
We hurried towards the other two, told them about what we heard. Needless to say, I could sense a little fear in them as well. We started moving faster towards the village.
Our formation was like that of the wolf pack. At least the most commonly believed notion about them.
For those who do not know, a wolf pack has the eldest and the weakest member at the front, leading the pack. It is him (or her) that decides the pace of the pack. Otherwise, he/she would be left behind.
He/she is followed by the stronger wolves that form the front line. Behind them are the remaining ones, followed by another set of stronger ones. Last one to follow the pack, keeping an eye on and protecting everyone, is the Alpha.
Though our pack wasn’t as huge as a wolf pack, but we had the eldest one at the front, and the only male, following the group, not only keeping an eye on the group, but on everything else around us.
For every 4 steps I walked ahead, I used to turn around and walk backwards (in the direction of the group) for 10 steps. While I may not have been a match to the pack that’s watching us, but mentally I was prepared to take on at least one of them, if they happened to attack us. Guess, fighting was the only way out then.
With careful eyes, and steps we kept proceeding ahead. While the other 3 were looking ahead, I had grown eyes on all parts of my head. And then, I saw a creature. Just a glimpse. Was it a mirage? Was it an animal. I wasn't sure. The same happened a few steps later too. But the third time, I was sure what I saw. It was a wolf. There was no pack to be seen. But they were surely around. Either the wolf was finding them. Or they had planned on attacking us. Running, hiding, fearing was not an option.
I looked at him eye to eye. He reciprocated. My heart was beating faster. I am no Sherlock, but in my mind, I had played a fight, if it happened to attack us. I was ready. That's when it struck my mind. To immortalise this moment on the camera too, than just have it in my mind. I slowly took out my phone, and took a few shots, while being very cautious about what would be his move.
His next move, was a good one. He decided to walk away. There was a sense of relief, but wolves are known to be clever. They hunt with a plan. We slowly started walking towards the village. And throughout that 2-2.5 kilometer distance, till we reached the village, I kept on living the fight with the creature in my head.
Sometimes, I still do.
If you have any questions about Zanskar or Phuktal Monastery, feel free to connect with me on my social media. Am the most active on Instagram .