Kukke Subramanya - Karthikeya's abode as a refuge for serpents, Karnataka.

Kukke Subramanya is one of the most famous Karthikeya temples in India. It is popularly known for its beautiful landscape and as a place to pay penance to serpent gods. I was fortunate enough to visit this particular pilgrimage on one auspicious Friday in the monsoon month of June 2024. When I was in Mangalore for two months, I decided to cover all the sacred temples around the western coast of India. Living alone made me realise to feel the spiritual aura of a few religious places in and around Mangalore. Among them, Kukke was one of the spots that made me feel extremely disconnected from the outside world by making me connect with spirituality.

After visiting Udupi Krishna and Dharmasthala Manjunatha, I was determined to visit Kukke Subramanya, as this site is equally powerful. Kukke Subramanya is rich in history, mythology, and folklore, and it is home to the deity who is revered as the lord of serpents. According to myth, this is the location where the serpent gods, such as Vasuki and Seshanag, sought refuge when Garuda was searching for them to kill them. Both serpents prayed for safety at Kumara Parvata, the mountain where Karthikeya married the daughter of Indra. The celestial wedding of Skanda and Devasena took place here, attended by the triumvirate of gods and other deities like Ganesha.

Being an ardent believer and lover of Hindu mythology, I wanted to visit this place and offer my prayers to Subramanya. People who generally have Kalasarpa doshas or the sins committed from the past life towards snakes, perform Aslesha Bali and Sarpa samskara poojas at this place. Thousands and lakhs of devotees visit this place regularly from nooks and corners of the country. Some for the poojas and penances, some for checking out the beautiful landscape and scenic views. Indeed one of the reasons I visited this place which is 105 km away from Mangalore, was to explore nature.

This was one of the most spontaneous religious trips I have ever taken. Given the distance and the fact that I was alone, I initially thought it would be too far for me to reach, especially during the monsoon season. However, I suddenly decided to go for it. I took a bus from the Mangalore bus stand, boarding the KSRTC bus to Kukke Subramanya for 110 rupees at 11 a.m. The journey took about three hours. I had to plan my time carefully to coincide with the KSRTC bus schedule, as the last bus from Kukke to Mangalore was at 5 p.m. This only gave me three hours to spend at the temple, but I managed to complete my rituals and explore the area around the temple effectively.

When I arrived at Kukke after navigating several ghat roads and the forest range of the Western Ghats, it was 2 PM. The temple closes for two hours for bhog seva (offering of food) to the deities from 1 PM to 3 PM, which meant I had just one hour left for my darshan (viewing of the deity). As soon as I got off the bus, I walked toward the temple, passing through the pathways that connect various other temples and mandaps where poojas (rituals) take place. Upon reaching the main temple entrance, a sense of awe washed over me. Behind the temple, the majestic Kumara Parvata resembled Seshanaga, with its six-hooded snake head extending across the entire mountain range.

It was a monsoon day when I visited the temple in the afternoon, just after a refreshing rain shower. Everything looked wet and incredibly beautiful, with clouds settling on the mountains and passing above the temple. I was awestruck by the scenery. Upon arriving at the temple, I purchased a Seegra Darshan ticket for 200 rupees, which also included a laddoo prasadam. There was a separate queue for those who had opted for that seva. After waiting for a while in the temple premises, I was able to enter and join the line just in time for the doors of the sanctum sanctorum to reopen.

Opposite the main doors of the Subramanya temple's sanctorum, I discovered Subramanya Ashram, which was quite vacant, with only one priest reciting mantras inside. My curiosity led me to explore the interior of the ashram. I entered and admired nearly every corner of its vintage, spiritual aesthetic, characterized by open ceilings, stone floors, and idols of various gods and goddesses. There were small walls and narrow paths connecting various rooms designed for meditation. After exploring these areas, I made my way to the back, where I could see the Kumaradhara River flowing behind the temple, surrounded by tall trees.

I spent a good ten minutes listening to the sounds of nature, breathing deeply, and embracing the surroundings. Afterwards, I returned to the hall of the ashram where the Dasaavatara idols are arranged around the Hanuman sculpture. I meditated for approximately ten minutes before stepping out of the ashram, having received blessings from the pandits. I didn’t want to leave the temple complex, as it felt intensely peaceful and spiritual. After everything, I collected my laddu prasadam and made my way out of the outer premises of the temple.

I captured all the pictures and videos of the temple premises by the time I finished my darshan in the evening. By then, I was quite hungry since I had missed lunch due to travelling. I decided to explore a few restaurants along the temple paths. After freshening up a bit, I enjoyed dosas and coffee. Later, I wandered through some stalls and stores at the temple. I bought a cute vel as a souvenir of Murugan to take home, along with a small photo of Kukke Subramanya.

As Karthikeya is the prime deity, Karthika Maasam attracts many devotees. Although the monsoon season isn't the best time to visit the temple due to the ghat roads and heavy rains, I decided to take advantage of this opportunity to explore in peace, even amid the harsh conditions. Fortunately, with His blessings, I didn't feel uncomfortable at all during my visit.