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Yes they are, you can actually opt in for ordinary one as well as AC buses could be good option.
I traveled with ordinary one though.
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Ordinary HRTC buses to McLeodganj are safe for the most parts but won't be comfortable after they cross Una and the hilly terrain starts.
i would recommend going for a pvt bus and travelling during the day as then your sleep won't be hampered and you will enjoy the stay.
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