Preface : Throttle Chronicles
“Life is a journey, enjoy the ride.”
Rider Profile: KMA – aka Dr.K.Mohamed Ali MD., Phd.
“Herfunmola”—one word to describe KMA. A jack of all trades and surprisingly a king of many too. His writing prowess is evident in the way he paints vivid pictures of the roads, the scenic beauty, the surroundings, and the atmosphere, making you feel as if you’re right there on the bike, all geared up. His style of writing elevates the reader’s vision of riding from a mere thought to a crescendo where you almost experience the cliché “been there, done that.”
Every chapter will make you feel as if you’re riding alongside him, though certainly not as a pillion. He meticulously remembers all names, places, hotels, and sites, making the narrative authentic and substantiated with photographs. He orchestrated the entire trip from planning to execution with such precision that riders merely had to light the fire and burn the road—well, wasn’t that the ultimate aim?
All kudos to KMA for his foresight and intricate organisational and administrative skills. His demeanour throughout the trip was filled with pride, and his fun quotient was contagious, keeping everyone’s spirits high. His riding skill is another tale altogether. Always the last one to start (thanks to the headphones, goggles, gloves, and helmet), yet he joins the pack in no time. He makes quick, unexpected stopovers to capture nature’s beauty with his camera, then gives that cynical smile that says, “You missed that.”
A religious, God-fearing man who practices prayers diligently and had no qualms about mingling and participating in others’ faiths. A veteran rider who is definitely an asset to the Mile Munchers group. I wish him Godspeed and many more safe rides ahead. Insha Allah.
With best wishes
GP Capt D Sendhil Kumar (Retd), Indian Air Force / MIG 21 and Mig -27 fighter pilot Credentials: Has lots of friends Strength: Can pick 100 kgs in clean and jerk Weaknesses: Afraid of reptiles
Chapter 1 . Introduction
“Unpaved roads, untold stories
Where wheels meet wilderness
Two wheels, endless possibilities
New terrain conquered
Another milestone achieved for the Mile Munchers!”
Embarking on an adventure bike ride through the rugged terrains of Spiti Valley is not for the faint-hearted. Our group, the Mile Munchers, thrives on challenges, and this journey epitomized endurance and camaraderie. Over 8 days, 9 bikes, 5000 ft to 15000 ft, and 1000 kilometers, we traversed some of the most treacherous and breathtaking landscapes in India.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/fdNxgzbo5v8ULeGbA - Our route map
Our expedition began with a flight to Chandigarh from Chennai, followed by a scenic van ride to Manali, where our circular route would start and end. The journey took us through the picturesque towns of Jibhi, Sangla, Kalpa, Kaza, and Chandratal, with the majestic Atal Tunnel marking a significant milestone. Each day presented new obstacles: unpaved roads, landslides, unprotected deep cliffs, relentless rain, and slippery, thick, slushy mud that tested our off-roading skills to the limit.
The landscapes we encountered were nothing short of spectacular. Riding through Jibhi, we were greeted by lush green valleys and cascading waterfalls, a serene prelude to the challenges ahead. Sangla’s apple orchards and terraced fields painted a picture of rural tranquility, while Kalpa offered panoramic views of the snow-capped Kinnaur Kailash range, a sight that left us in awe.
As we ventured deeper into Spiti Valley, the terrain became more unforgiving. The barren, rocky, martian-like landscapes of Kaza, with its ancient monasteries perched precariously on cliffs, contrasted sharply with the vibrant blue skies. Chandratal, the Moon Lake, was a surreal oasis amidst the stark desert, its crystal-clear waters reflecting the surrounding peaks.
Despite the hardships, the spirit of adventure kept us going. The thrill of conquering rough terrains, the joy of riding through untouched landscapes, and the bond we shared as a group made every challenge worthwhile. This travelogue captures the essence of our journey, the beauty of Spiti Valley, and the indomitable spirit of the Mile Munchers.!
Spiti Valley - Riders’ Triumph
We’ve conquered it all – the good, the bad, and the downright challenging roads. We had many falls on the slippery and slushy no-roads, but our attitude and humor ensured we laughed it off at the end of the day. The Mile Munchers have done it again. Nine seasoned riders, united as one team, tackled everything from smooth highways to rugged trails. Riding our trusty Himalayans, we achieved a profound sense of accomplishment. Kudos to everyone for enduring the tough paths throughout the journey. Well done and safe travels. Happy riding again, Mile Munchers! Way to go!
I have tried my best to catalogue the unforgettable experience and adventure it offered, reminiscing the challenges and experiences it brought us. This is my second travelogue; the earlier one was about our trip to North East Arunachal and Assam in 2023.
Final Note to Readers: I hope you enjoy reading about our adventures as much as we enjoyed living them. May this travelogue inspire your own journeys and fill you with the same sense of wonder and excitement that we felt. Happy reading!
Chapter 2: Meet the Mile Munchers
Riding Together, Conquering Heights
Introducing the Mile Munchers, a group of nine passionate riders who embarked on an epic and arduous bike ride to Spiti Valley. As part of a larger community that annually tackles the challenging terrains of the Himalayas, we have completed a journey that will forever be etched in our memories.
A Journey of Fun, Joy, and Adrenaline
This adventure was brimming with fun, joy, and adrenaline. The immense efforts and skills displayed by our team were commendable. We extend our heartfelt thanks to all the riders for their patience and tolerance despite the many challenges we faced. Each one of you contributed to making this journey unforgettable.
Saluting Our Newest Member
A special shoutout to our new member, GP Capt. Sendhil Kumar, alias Diesel, a retired fighter pilot from the Indian Air Force. His exceptional character and skills were invaluable. Our salutes for his contributions and for capturing the entire trip on video.
Celebrating Our Veterans
Congratulations to Mr. Sunder from Chennai, Mr. Sukumar from Dubai, and Mr. Raju from Chennai, all successful businessmen, for completing a hat-trick of trips over the past three years. Kudos to Dr. Meghanathan, a Urologist from Thanjavur, Dr. G Senthil Kumar, an Onco Surgeon from Tiruchirapalli, Dr. Santhana Krishnan, a Neuro Surgeon, and Mr. Arvind Rajapalayam, a businessman from Madurai, who completed their second biking escapade with us. Your riding skills are truly impressive.
Truly Yours
A heartfelt salute to yours truly KMA—the grandmaster of glorious chaos—who, is me with ample time on hands planning for an awful experience , meticulously transformed every aspect of our trip into a delightful disaster. Fate was left to unravel the mess, but my relentless obsession ensured that everything ran like clockwork, much to everyone’s irritation. This forced the riders to enjoy the adventure despite our best efforts to the contrary. And let’s not forget the treacherous, non-motorable route I handpicked—a journey guaranteed to haunt the Mile Munchers for a lifetime!
Looking Ahead
Salute to all of you for the wonderful, fun-filled moments we shared. We look forward to continuing our journey next year with our other teammates in an even better location, facing more challenges and honing our skills!
The Orchestrators of Our Adventure
The Maestro Behind the Scenes Mr. Santanu Banerjee, the man behind XKMPH trips, orchestrated our biking extravaganza. His expertise in navigating these rugged terrains ensured our safety and amplified our thrill. For more about XKMPH trips, visit kMphtrips.com.
Our Road Captain
Alongside us was our road captain, Nano Malani, a veteran of rides in Spiti and the Himalayan ranges, who ensured our safety and comfort throughout the trip. We highly recommend this trip to anyone looking for an adventure of a lifetime!
Support Crew
Our team was backed up by a pickup to carry our luggage, and we were accompanied by a trained mechanic and helpers with basic spares, doubling as backup transport for riders and bikes if needed.
The Ultimate Ride: Royal Enfield Himalayan
Built for the Roughest Terrains The Royal Enfield Himalayan is packed with features that make it an excellent choice for adventure biking. With a 424 cc engine, high ground clearance, and front telescopic and rear mono shocks, this bike is ideal for off-roading, mountainous, and high-altitude rides. The bike’s half-duplex split cradle frame and spoked wheels provide better grip and stability on off-road terrain. The dual-purpose tyres offer good traction on both on-road and off-road surfaces. The bike’s scrambler-type design adds to its rugged look and feel. It took a great amount of beating on and off the road, but in the end, it was just flawless, grunting and yearning for more.
Chapter 3: The Spiti Valley Adventure Begins
Day 1: Arrival at Chandigarh and Manali from Chennai
"The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step." — Lao Tzu
Accommodation: Hotel Sandhya Palace, Manali
Our epic journey kicked off from Chennai airport at 11 am, and by 1:45 pm, we touched down at Chandigarh airport. From there, our organizers had arranged a Tempo Traveller to whisk us away to Manali. Despite the sweltering heat and a non-functional AC in the van (for reasons best known to the universe), we kept our spirits high, knowing the thrilling ride ahead would more than make up for it.
We made a pit stop at Haveli Dhaba for a delightful lunch, which was a much-needed break. Everyone loved the lassi—heartfelt! By the time we reached Kullu, it was around 9 pm. After a quick dinner, we continued our journey and finally arrived at Hotel Sandhya Palace in Manali at 10:30 pm. Exhausted but exhilarated, we hit the beds for a much-needed recharge.
The hotel was perfect for a comfortable stay, complete with a charming porch yard adorned with apple trees and a great restaurant. The staff was courteous and attentive, ensuring we felt right at home.
With a long day ahead, filled with the excitement and anticipation of our first bike ride to Jibhi, we couldn’t wait to get started. Our rider, GP Capt. Sendhil Kumar, suggested a detour to Hadimba Temple in Manali and Manikaran for a hot spring dip, so we decided to set off early the next morning. Stay tuned for more adventures as we delve deeper into the majestic Spiti Valley!
Chapter 4: Manali to Jibhi via Manikaran (190 Kms)
From Manali to Jibhi—The Thrill Begins
“Adventure is worthwhile in itself.” – Amelia Earhart
Day 2 . Part 1: Manali to Manikaran Hot Spring , Time : Around 8 hours drive .
Accomodation : Lato the Hut , Jibhi. Altitude : 1600 meters – 5250 feet
With sky-high spirits, we geared up for our maiden day ride. Our bikes were ready and waiting for us at the hotel. Riders selected their bikes by picking keys from a helmet—an ingenious, unbiased method devised by our “Herfunmola.” https://youtube.com/shorts/S-guUbpbj8I?si=YadTDcpYy_Eh_bjJ
After a short spin to get familiar with the bikes, our road captain and organizer briefed us on the trip, offering essential riding tips.To honor our journey, we were adorned with Himachal caps called Himachal TOPI or KULLU Topi , a thoughtful gesture that made us feel special. With great fanfare, our adventure kicked off.
We began by visiting the Hadimba Temple in Manali, a serene place enveloped by cedar forests. This ancient cave temple, dedicated to Getting spiritual fervor from the deity at Hadimba Temple! Hidimbi Devi from the Mahabharata, infused a spiritual tone into the start of our ride.
Prayers offered, we cautiously hit the Manali to Kullu highway, taking time to get accustomed to our bikes. When taking a new set of bikes, especially in mountainous and hilly areas, it’s crucial to familiarise ourselves with the handling and responsiveness of the bikes. This involves understanding the braking system, gear shifts, and the overall balance, which can be quite different from riding on flat terrain. The winding roads and varying elevations require extra attention to throttle control and braking to ensure safety and stability.
After reaching Kullu about 50 kms , we diverted towards Manikaran. The four-lane highway soon narrowed to a single road along the Parvati River, broken in several places. Rain added to the adventure, but we reached Manikaran safely, explored the hot springs, and enjoyed the local market.
Post-lunch, we set off for Jibhi, crossing the Aut Tunnel, one of India’s longest at 2.8 kilometers, with a refreshing tea break ahead of the tunnel.
Part 2: Kullu to Jibhi Ride
“The journey, not the arrival, matters.” – T.S. Eliot
The ride from Kullu to Jibhi was an exhilarating journey through a mix of single-lane broken and paved mountain roads. The route, approximately 60 kilometers long, took us through the heart of the Himalayas, offering breathtaking views of lush green valleys and towering peaks. The constant drizzle added a mystical charm to the landscape, with mist rising from the valleys and clinging to the mountainsides. As we navigated the winding roads, we passed through numerous quaint villages and bustling towns, each with its own unique character and charm.
The topography varied from steep climbs to gentle slopes, with the road often hugging the sides of the mountains, providing stunning vistas of the Spiti River below. The journey was not without its challenges. The rain made the already treacherous roads slippery, and we had to be extra cautious to avoid skidding. Landslides were a constant threat, with loose rocks occasionally tumbling onto the road. The unpaved sections were particularly tough, with mud and puddles slowing us down and testing our endurance.
The sheer unpredictability of the weather and terrain added to the adventure. One moment we were riding under clear blue skies, and the next, we were navigating through a sudden downpour or even snow. The camaraderie among riders was another highlight, with everyone looking out for each other and sharing tips.
Despite the challenging conditions, the journey was filled with moments of awe and wonder. The lush greenery, the sound of the river flowing below, and the sight of snow-capped peaks in the distance made every hardship worthwhile. We took frequent breaks to soak in the beauty around us not to mention the recharging tea cups and to capture the stunning scenery with our cameras.
We finally reached our destination, Hotel , Lato the Hut, a cozy retreat nestled in the serene surroundings of Jibhi. Since being night time we were unable to understand the nature of the surroundings and the ambience it offered , but wait we were in for a great surprise the next morning .
The evening was spent sharing stories of the day’s adventures, enjoying a hearty meal, and planning the next leg of our journey while relishing the rhythm of the gushing Tirthan river .
Chapter 5: Day 3 - Journey from Jibhi to Chitkul
From Tranquil Valleys to Majestic Peaks: The Road Less Traveled
“The journey not the arrival matters.” – T.S. Eliot
Distance: Approximately 220 kilometers , Route: Jibhi - Banjar - Jalori Pass - Ani - Rampur - Karcham - Sangla - Chitkul
Time: Around 10 hours drive. Altitude: 3450 meters – 11300 feet. Accomodation : Baspa Camp Sangla.
As dawn broke, we were greeted by a breathtaking panorama. The first rays of sunlight illuminated the lush valley, revealing a tapestry of vibrant colors. The serene beauty of the place was almost surreal. Lato the Hut is situated along the banks of the Tirthan River. This serene location, surrounded by tall deodar trees, offers a peaceful retreat amidst nature. Lato the hut perched along the banks of Thirthan offers an exotic stay for those nature lovers. !
The gentle murmur of the river, the crisp mountain air, and the sight of mist slowly lifting from the valley created a magical atmosphere. The surrounding peaks, now clearly visible, stood majestically against the clear blue sky.
We relished the beauty with the sound of the flowing river reverberating in our soul, as we hastily readied for the challenge ahead, unable to leave behind the beauty of its surroundings. After a simple breakfast and tea, it was a perfect start to our day, filling us with renewed energy and excitement for the adventures ahead.
Jibhi to Jalori Pass: The journey begins with a narrow, winding road that ascends steeply towards Jalori Pass. The road is flanked by dense forests of deodar and pine, creating a canopy of green. As you climb higher, the air becomes crisper, and the views more breathtaking. The road, though challenging with its sharp turns and occasional rough patches, rewards with panoramic vistas of the surrounding valleys and distant snow-capped peaks. We took a break to get a view of the valley and for a group photo. One could see Shimla ranges, Spiti ranges and the Kinnaur ranges with distinct landscape.
Jalori Pass to Ani:
Descending from Jalori Pass, the road continues to test your driving skills with its sharp bends and uneven surfaces. The landscape transitions from dense forests to more open areas, offering glimpses of terraced fields and quaint villages. The descent is steep, and the road can be rough in places, requiring careful navigation.
We were diverted to roads which were non existant , since there was a landslide on the way and our spines were refitted by the rough terrain and both man and machine took a heavy toll. Navigating through the landslide area was quite an adventure! The main road was completely blocked, so we had to take a detour onto some makeshift paths that were barely recognizable as roads. The terrain was extremely rough, filled with loose rocks and deep ruts, making it a real test for both our bikes and our riding skills.We had to proceed slowly and carefully, often getting off our bikes to scout the best path forward. At times, we even had to help each other push the bikes over particularly tricky section. The camaraderie among the group was crucial; everyone pitched in, whether it was offering a hand to steady a bike or sharing tips on the best way to tackle a difficult patch.
Despite the challenges, the spirit of adventure kept us going. Once we finally made it past the landslide area, we took a moment to refuel our bikes in Ani and ourselves, sharing a sense of accomplishment before continuing on our journey.
Ani to Rampur: As you approach Ani, the road conditions improve significantly. The route becomes wider and smoother, allowing for a more relaxed drive. The scenery is dominated by terraced fields, apple orchards, and small hamlets. The Sutlej River comes into view as you near Rampur, adding a serene backdrop to the journey.
Rampur to Karcham: Following the Sutlej River, the road meanders through a picturesque landscape of rugged mountains and deep gorges. The road is generally in good condition, but there are occasional rough patches. The river, with its powerful flow, provides a constant companion, and the sound of rushing water adds to the adventure.
https://youtube.com/shorts/1Ai-jXdGKtg?feature=share
Karcham to Sangla: The climb into the Sangla Valley begins at Karcham.
On your route from Jibhi to Chitkul, you will pass by the Karcham Dam. This dam is located near the confluence of the Sutlej and Baspa rivers and is a significant landmark in the region. The Karcham Dam is part of a major hydropower project and offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The road narrows after passing the dam and becomes more winding, with sharp turns and steep ascents. The landscape is stunning, with the Baspa River flowing alongside and the valley surrounded by towering peaks. The road can be challenging, but the beauty of the Sangla Valley makes it worthwhile.
Sangla to Chitkul: The final leg of the journey to Chitkul is perhaps the most scenic. The road narrows further, with sharp bends and steep climbs. The Baspa Valley unfolds in all its glory, with lush green meadows, apple orchards, and traditional wooden houses dotting the landscape. The road conditions can be rough, but the pristine beauty of Chitkul, the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibet border, is a fitting reward for the journey.
Throughout the journey, the environment transitions from dense forests and terraced fields to rugged mountains and serene river valleys. Each stretch of the road offers its own unique challenges and rewards, making the adventure from Jibhi to Chitkul a truly unforgettable experience. As the long day drew to a close, darkness began to envelop us, and our riders struggled with visibility. The helmet visors fogged up, and lifting them exposed our faces to the biting chill, like a thousand tiny thorns. These challenges and hardships are all part of the adventure, and our seasoned riders took them in stride !
After a grueling day of riding, we finally reached our destination, Hotel BASPA CAMP in Chitkul. Nestled alongside the serene Baspa River, the sight of the flowing water and the tranquil surroundings provided a much-needed respite from the day’s challenges. There was a small fireplace beside the kitchen, offering us cozy warmth to tackle the cold and chilly weather. Despite the hotel’s basic and crude accommodations, we managed to get a good night’s sleep, unwinding and reflecting on the day’s adventures.
The next morning, waking up to the sound of the river was an incredible experience. The gentle rush of water was both soothing and invigorating, providing the perfect start to another day of our epic journey. Enjoying a cup of tea by the riverside was more than a heavenly experience, adding a touch of serenity to our morning.
Chapter 6: Day 4 - Journey from Chitkul to Kalpa
From the Last Village to the Apple Orchards: A Ride Through Kinnaur
“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.” – Helen Keller
Distance: Approximately 140 kilometers, Route: Chitkul - Sangla - Karcham - Reckong Peo - Kalpa, Time: Around 6 hours drive. Stay : Hotel Kalpa
As we departed from Chitkul, the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibetan border, the crisp morning air filled our lungs with a sense of exhilaration. The journey ahead promised a blend of rugged terrains, serene landscapes, and the thrill of the open road.
Chitkul: Nestled in the picturesque Kinnaur Valley, Chitkul is renowned for its pristine beauty and cultural heritage. It is the last village on the old Hindustan-Tibet trade route, with civilian movement restricted beyond this point due to its proximity to the Indo-Tibetan border. The village is situated at an altitude of 3,450 meters, offering breathtaking views of the Baspa River and the surrounding snow-capped peaks. The air is crisp and fresh, and the serene environment provides a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
We visited the last civilian border post, a significant landmark that added a sense of adventure and history to our journey. The post, manned by the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, stands as a silent sentinel, marking the edge of civilian territory. We proudly posed for our lenses with a sense of pride in reaching the farthest place on the Indian border, feeling a deep connection to the land and its history.
A notable spot in Chitkul is the famous tea shop, often referred to as “Hindustan ka Aakhri Dhaba” (The Last Dhaba of Hindustan), where travelers can enjoy a warm cup of tea while soaking in the stunning vistas. The dhaba, with its rustic charm and welcoming atmosphere, serves as a cozy haven for weary travelers. Our team tasted the tea and took snaps in the picturesque café and also the signboards, capturing memories of this unique spot.
We had the delightful opportunity to meet a warm and courteous Gujarati family. They generously shared their snacks with us, including a delicious mini dried dosa-like treat (we’ll need to find out the exact name and it seems they were the manufacturers of this snack ). It was very delicate and crunchy ? with spices strewn over it . They were also more than happy to take some photos with us. Interestingly, we kept bumping into them at various points throughout our trip, and each time, they graciously offered us more of their tasty snacks. Out of guilt for the unrelenting love shown by them, we shared a plate of momos in a dhaba!
Chitkul to Sangla: The initial stretch from Chitkul to Sangla is a descent through winding roads that hug the mountainside. The Baspa River, with its crystal-clear waters, accompanies us, creating a soothing soundtrack to our ride. The road, though narrow and occasionally bumpy, offers stunning views of the valley below. As we rode through dense forests of pine and deodar, the morning sun filtered through the trees, casting a golden glow on the path ahead.
Sangla to Karcham: Leaving Sangla, we continued our journey towards Karcham. The road here is relatively smoother, allowing us to pick up some speed. The landscape transitions from dense forests to more open areas, revealing terraced fields and apple orchards. The sight of locals tending to their orchards and the occasional roadside stalls selling fresh apples added a touch of local flavor to our journey. We took a brief stop at the Karcham Dam, marveling at the engineering feat and the powerful flow of the Sutlej River.
Karcham to Reckong Peo: We had a good Lunch in the road side Dhaba there. The ride from Karcham to Reckong Peo is a mix of smooth stretches and challenging patches. The road meanders along the Sutlej River, offering breathtaking views of the river cutting through deep gorges. The towering peaks of the Kinnaur Kailash range loom in the distance, their snow-capped summits glistening in the sunlight. As we approached Reckong Peo, the administrative headquarters of Kinnaur district, the road condition improved significantly. We took a short break here to refuel our bikes and grab a quick snack.
Reckong Peo to Kalpa: The final leg of our journey took us from Reckong Peo to Kalpa, a picturesque village known for its apple orchards and panoramic views of the Kinnaur Kailash range. The road ascends gradually, offering increasingly spectacular views as we climbed higher. The air grew cooler, and the scent of apple blossoms filled the air. As we rode into Kalpa, the sight of traditional Kinnauri houses with their intricate woodwork and slate roofs welcomed us. The village, perched on a hillside, offers a stunning view of the Kinnaur Kailash range, with its peaks often shrouded in clouds.
Trip to Kinnaur Point: Before settling in Kalpa, we decided to visit Kinnaur Point, a popular viewpoint known for its breathtaking vistas infamously also called the ‘Suicide Point’. But the story we heard was of a homicide one !!
The journey to Kinnaur Point took us through winding roads lined with apple orchards and terraced fields. Upon reaching the viewpoint, we were greeted with a panoramic view of the Kinnaur Kailash range, the Sutlej River, and the lush green valleys below. The beauty of Kinnaur Point is truly mesmerizing, with the majestic peaks standing tall against the clear blue sky, creating a picture-perfect scene. The tranquility of the place, combined with the stunning natural beauty, made it a highlight of our journey. We clicked photos , spent quality time watching the sunset in tranquility !
Upon reaching Kalpa, we arrived at our stay, Hotel Kalpa. We parked our bikes and took a moment to soak in the serene beauty of the place. The area was surrounded by apple orchards, and there was a warning not to pluck the apples, which were temptingly within arm’s reach! It felt like the apples were mocking us, hanging there all juicy and delicious. Our stay was enriched by a cozy fireside, where we had the opportunity to relax in the warmth and swap stories with other guests. The journey from Chitkul to Kalpa had been a perfect blend of adventure and tranquility, leaving us with memories of breathtaking landscapes and the fellowship of the ride!
Chapter 7: Day 5 - Journey from Kalpa to Kaza
The Road Less Travelled
“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” – Lao Tzu
Distance: Approximately 200 kilometers. Elevation : 3,650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level. Route: Kalpa - Puh - Nako - Tabo – Kaza Accomodation : Hotel Old Monk Time: 8-10 hours
Route and Terrain
The journey from Kalpa to Kaza is a thrilling ride through some of the most rugged and breathtaking terrains in the Himalayas. Starting from Kalpa, the route takes you through the serene village of Puh, the picturesque Nako, and the ancient Tabo before reaching Kaza. The road is a mix of well-paved sections and challenging, rough patches, especially as you ascend higher into the Spiti Valley. The terrain is characterized by steep cliffs, winding roads, and dramatic landscapes that change from lush greenery to stark, barren mountains
Important Places to Visit Enroute
1. Puh: A serene village known for its apple orchards and stunning views of the Sutlej River.
2. Nako: A picturesque village with a beautiful lake and ancient monasteries. It’s a perfect spot for a peaceful break.
3. Gue Monastery: Home to the famous Mummy Monk, a 500-year-old naturally preserved mummy of a Buddhist monk.
4. Tabo Monastery: One of the oldest and most significant monasteries in the region, often referred to as the “Ajanta of the Himalayas” due to its ancient murals and frescoes. .
Environment
As you ride through this route, you’ll experience a dramatic shift in the environment. We ascend to an elevation of about 12000 ft . The lush greenery of Kalpa gradually gives way to the arid, high-altitude desert of Spiti Valley. The air becomes thinner and cooler, and the landscape more rugged and desolate. The Spiti River accompanies you for a significant part of the journey, adding to the scenic beauty with its turquoise waters cutting through the valley.
Ride Experience
The ride from Kalpa to Kaza is not for the faint-hearted. It demands skill, endurance, and a spirit of adventure. The narrow, winding roads with sharp turns and steep ascents test your riding abilities. However, the stunning vistas of snow-capped peaks, deep gorges, and ancient monasteries make every challenging moment worthwhile. The camaraderie among the riders, the shared experiences, and the sense of accomplishment as you navigate this treacherous route create unforgettable memories.
Distance: Covering approximately 210 kilometers, this leg of the journey takes about 8-10 hours, depending on road conditions and weather. Frequent stops to capture the stunning landscapes and to rest are essential, making the journey as much about the experience as it is about reaching the destination.
Chapter 8: Day 6 - Kaza Local sight seeing .
High-Altitude Wonders
“The higher you climb, the more breathtaking the view.”
Distance: Approximately 100 kms Elevation: 4,587 meters 15,000 ft . Route: Kaza - Langza - Hikkim - Komic - Key Monastery – Kaza Accomodation : Hotel Old Monk
Time: Full day
The day had been filled with high-altitude adventures as the group explored some of the world’s highest and most picturesque villages. Their journey took them to Langza, famous for its fossils , Komic, Asia’s highest inhabited village, Hikkim, home to the highest post office and Key Monastery before returning to Kaza for the night.
Energized and ready to uncover Kaza’s Gems !
It was a more relaxed day for the riders, with fewer kilometers to cover. After five days of intense driving, early starts, and long hours on the road, they enjoyed a well-deserved rest. The day began with refueling the Himalayans at the world’s highest oil pump – Indian Oil at 12,270 feet. Despite the challenging conditions and the heavy use of lower gears during climbs and off-roading, the bikes impressively averaged 30 km/l, a testament to their resilience and the riders’ skill.
Buddha Statue at Langza :
The journey to the Buddha Statue at Langza enroute had been a serene experience. Langza is known for its gigantic Buddha statue, which overlooks the village and the surrounding Spiti Valley. This statue is a prominent landmark and a popular spot for visitors to the region.The riders visited the nearby café and captured the tranquil beauty of the location in photos. Riders could feel the breathlessness due to high altitude . .
This was followed by a ride to Komic is one of the highest villages in the world connected by a motorable road, sitting at around 4,587 meters (15,050 feet) above sea level. The riders were awestruck by the stunning views and the unique charm of this high-altitude village. We visited Asia’s highest restaurant, Spiti Organic Kitchen, and enjoyed a meal with a spectacular view, making it a memorable dining experience. Our riders were treated to Hot Momos, noodles and Coffee.We could interact with many international travelers.
Just near by is the monastery in Komic is known as Tangyud Monastery. It is one of the highest monasteries in India and is associated with the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery is notable for its unique architecture, resembling a fortified castle, and its significant cultural and religious importance in the Spiti Valley. It gives a great view of the valley and riders cherished the place and views . We can view Hikkim village from here .
Hikkim – Highest post office in the world:
We proceeded to Hikkim where the Highest Post office in the world is located . The road is rugged and bumpy, typical of high-altitude mountain roads. It’s a narrow, winding path that requires careful driving . Hikkim, known for having the world’s highest post office, is slightly lower at around 4,400 meters (14,400 feet). The journey offers stunning views of the stark, rugged mountains of the Spiti Valley. Snow-capped peaks, deep gorges, and vast, barren landscapes dominate the scenery. There are several viewpoints along the way where you can stop to take in the panoramic views and capture some incredible photographs. At Hikkim, the highest post office in the world, the riders sent postcards to their loved ones as souvenirs. Most postcards were received within a week, bringing smiles to the recipients and remembrance of the hard drives for our riders.
![Photo of Hikkim Post Office [The World's Highest Post Office], Kaza by DR.MOHAMED ALI](https://cdn1.tripoto.com/media/filter/nl/img/2496971/Image/1730707058_image153.png)
Key Monastery (Ki Gompa)
The ride from Hikkim to Key Monastery is a breathtaking journey through the stunning landscapes of the Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh, India. Approximately 15 kilometers from Hikkim the drive typically takes around 40 minutes, depending on road conditions and weather. As you travel, you’ll be surrounded by the stark, rugged beauty of the Spiti Valley, with its dramatic landscapes, deep gorges, and high-altitude desert terrain. The roads are narrow and winding, often hugging the sides of steep cliffs. While the journey is thrilling, it requires careful driving, especially during the monsoon season when landslides can occur. Riders had their Lunch at Restaurant at Key Monastery offering Thuppa and other local cuisines and was mouthful.
Perched at an altitude of 4,166 meters (13,668 feet), Key Monastery is one of the most iconic structures in the Spiti Valley. The monastery has a unique fort-like design, builtto withstand invasions and natural calamities. It offers stunning views of the valley below. Founded in the 11th century, it is a vital center for Tibetan Buddhism and home to over 200 monks. Architecture is an unique blend of Indian and Tibetan styles with the beautiful Murals and Thangkas artwork that adorns the monastery walls Experience the Spiritual Atmosphere with peaceful and serene environment, perfect for meditation and reflection.
After dusk we had a photo session at the foot hills with a view of the monastery and returned to our rooms in Kaza to a well deserved Dinner and rest.
Chapter 9: Day 7 - Kaza to Chandratal
Journey to the Moon Lake
“The road less traveled often leads to the most breathtaking destinations.”
Distance: 150 kms Accommodation : Moon Lake tents Route: Kaza - Chicham Bridge - Khab Bridge - Losar - Kunzum Pass - Chandratal Time: 8 hours
Anticipating a long day ahead, we set off from Kaza with our minds and bodies fully recharged after a two-day stay. Kaza, a town where modern amenities blend seamlessly with traditional Tibetan culture, bustles with activity, offering various cafes, guesthouses, and shops. The serene Spiti River flows gently by, adding to the tranquil atmosphere. As we hit the road, we had a better view of the Key Monastery and made a brief stop for a photo session at its foothills.
Chicham Bridge (4,000 meters)
Our first major landmark was the Chicham Bridge, the highest bridge in Asia. This engineering marvel spans a deep gorge, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. It’s a perfect spot for a quick photo stop and to marvel at the sheer drop below. All the riders enjoyed the breathtaking views and didn’t miss the opportunity to capture the memories.
After this, the road began to ascend, leading us into a Martian-like landscape. We crossed over to the famous shooting spot of the Hindi movie “Kesari.” The area, resembling a deep ravine eroded by glacial waters, made us feel like we were on another planet altogether. Our riders were enthralled by the surrounding environment and our Capt Diesel gave a short video explaining the significance of the spot.
Kesari Movie spot in Spiti Valley . Narration by Grp Capt. D Sendil Kumar Rtd alias Diesel
Khab Bridge (3,600 meters)
Continuing on, we reached Khab Bridge, where the Spiti and Sutlej rivers meet. The confluence of these rivers creates a dramatic landscape, with the turquoise waters of the Spiti merging with the muddy Sutlej. The bridge itself is a testament to the rugged beauty of the region. We took a short break to relish the beauty and the heavy winds. A photo with the Himalayas and the bridge made for a great display picture! From here, the road started to broaden, and a highway is under construction. Though unpaved now, it promises a smoother ride in the future.
Candid Moments in the Khab Bridge !
Losar (4,079 meters)
We arrived in Losar just in time for lunch. This quaint village, the last in Spiti before ascending to Kunzum Pass, is a charming settlement with traditional houses and friendly locals. It’s the perfect place to take a break, refuel, and savor some local cuisine. The restaurants offer decent food, featuring local dishes and snacks. Surrounded by lush fields, Losar provides a glimpse into the rural life of Spiti. This is the last point of mobile contact, and our captain informed us that there would be no more mobile network until we reached the Atal Tunnel the next day. It’s a blessing in disguise, giving us a chance to rest our mobiles for 24 hours and experience life without them.
Kunzum Pass (4,551 meters)
From Losar, the ascent to Kunzum Pass is challenging but rewarding. At 4,551 meters, Kunzum Pass is one of the highest motorable passes in India. The pass is adorned with prayer flags and features a small temple dedicated to Kunzum Mata. From here, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Bara Shigri Glacier, one of the largest in the Himalayas and the second-longest glacier in the world.
Broken bridge near Kunzum Pass
The panoramic views from the top are breathtaking, with snow-capped peaks and glaciers stretching as far as the eye can see. The sight of the glacier, with its vast expanse of ice and snow, is truly awe-inspiring and adds to the majestic beauty of Kunzum Pass
Bikers reveling in the majestic vista of Bara Shigri Glacier, one of the most colossal glaciers in the Himalayas and the second-longest on the planet!
Our riders took a brief stop for prayers to the deity and photos of the glacier before we continued our journey towards Chandratal.
Chandratal (4,300 meters)
The detour from the main route to Manali to Chandratal is an unpaved, narrow road along cliffs and edges, intercepted by small waterways and crossings. This challenging and adventurous path tests the riders’ maneuvering skills. Our road captain expertly guided us through these difficult sections, ensuring everyone passed safely without any issues.
Finally, we arrived at Chandratal, also known as the Moon Lake, in the evening. Nestled at an altitude of 4,300 meters, Chandratal is a high-altitude lake surrounded by towering peaks. The crystal-clear waters reflect the sky and mountains, creating a surreal and tranquil setting. It was a heartwarming moment for all the riders to reach this destination. We took a short 15-minute trek to the lake, crossing a small stream. The serene beauty of the place was captivating, and we tasted the crystal-clear glacier water to our hearts’ content.
We reached our tent stay at Chandratal, which offered a unique experience in sub-zero temperatures. The fireplace in the kitchen was very warming equipped with a Bhukari , and we were served hot soup and tea upon arrival, lifting our spirits.We were joined by another team we had met at Kalpa and shared stories about our trips.
A Bhukhari stove is a traditional wood-burning stove commonly used in the Himalayan regions, including Spiti Valley, to provide essential heating during the harsh winters. Constructed typically from metal, it features a firebox for burning wood, a chimney to vent smoke outside, and adjustable air vents to control the fire’s intensity. Besides heating, the Bhukhari often serves as a cooking surface and a social hub where families gather for warmth and conversation. Its multifunctional design makes it indispensable in high-altitude homes, offering both practical and communal benefits.
Power was provided by a small generator at the site, and we had to complete all our tasks by 9 PM before hitting the bed. We needed all the layers of clothing and sheets to protect us from the chill and cold winds outside the tent. The water in the taps was freezing cold too.
We had hoped to watch the Milky Way at Chandratal, but inclement weather and rain had other plans, leaving us to admire it through Google images instead.
This chapter captures the essence of the journey from Kaza to Chandratal, highlighting the beauty, challenges, and unique experiences along the way.
Chapter 10: Day 8 – Chandratal to Manali and Proceed to Chandigarh
The Final Ascent
“The journey is the destination.”
Distance: 120 kms Accommodation: Hotel Kanchanikoot, Manali
Route: Batal, Chattru, Gramphoo, and the Atal Tunnel Time: 8 hours
The penultimate day of our journey marked the final leg of our exhilarating ride. As we prepared to leave Chandratal, a mix of emotions swept through our group. We felt a deep sadness that our challenging and breathtaking adventure was drawing to a close, yet there was also a sense of eagerness to return to the comforts of home.
The day began with a chill in the air, temperatures hovering in the lower single digits. At 7:15 am, we were greeted with steaming cups of hot tea, which provided a much-needed boost of energy. Despite the cold, we managed to complete our morning routines with the help of a bucket of hot water, heated by the solar water heaters.
Before setting off, we gathered for a group photo with the crew members who had supported us throughout our journey. With spirits high and a sense of anticipation for what lay ahead, we embarked on the day’s ride, unaware of the adventures and challenges that awaited us on the route through Batal, Chattru, Gramphoo, and the iconic Atal Tunnel.
Mile Munchers starting from tents in Chandratal in freezing temparatures
The ride was nothing short of an epic adventure. The rugged terrain tested our skills and endurance, with each twist and turn revealing new breathtaking vistas. The path from Batal to Chattru was particularly treacherous, with narrow roads carved into the mountainside and loose gravel threatening to unseat us at every turn. Yet, the camaraderie among us Mile Munchers kept our spirits high. We encouraged each other through the toughest stretches, sharing laughs and stories that made the journey even more memorable.
The road was blocked in many places due to landslides and construction work, and we had to wait patiently in the rain until the road was cleared. The rain added an extra layer of challenge, turning the already tricky paths into slippery tracks. Our bikes roared through the mud and water, each rider maneuvering with precision and grit. The thrill of navigating through such unpredictable conditions was unmatched, and every successful turn felt like a small victory.
We had to cross about 80 kms in about 5 hours, which will show the progress and the road condition. Once we reached the Manali Rohtang Pass highway, we sensed a feel of great relief, pride, and achievement. All of us took a victory snap at the road sign and started our onward journey to Manali on the beautiful paved highway at least an hour before schedule showcasing the riding skills of our riders as praised by the road captain.
ATAL TUNNEL : As we approached the Atal Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in the world, a sense of achievement washed over us. Riding through the tunnel was a surreal experience, the echo of our engines reverberating off the walls, marking the culmination of our journey through some of the most rugged terrains in the Himalayas. The Atal Tunnel, also known as the Rohtang Tunnel, is a remarkable engineering feat located in the eastern Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh, India. Spanning 9.02 kilometers, it is the longest highway single-tube tunnel above 10,000 feet. This all-weather tunnel, inaugurated on October 3, 2020, by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), connects Manali to the Lahaul-Spiti valley, significantly reducing travel distance by 46 kilometers and travel time by 3 to 4 hours. Situated at an altitude of around 3,100 meters, it ensures year-round connectivity, boosting tourism and providing strategic advantages.
Emerging from the tunnel, we were greeted by the lush greenery of Manali, a stark contrast to the barren landscapes we had traversed. The descent into Manali was a smooth ride, allowing us to finally relax and reflect on the incredible journey we had undertaken. The sense of accomplishment was palpable as we rode into the town, knowing that we had conquered one of the most challenging routes in the world.
Triumph in Manali: The End of an Epic Ride
Finally reaching Manali felt like a triumphant end to our ride, , but the journey wasn’t over yet. With heavy hearts, we handed over our Himalayans, our trusted soul mates who carried us and bore the abuse of our rides and bad roads, yet still managed to bring us back in one piece without a single breakdown or puncture. Kudos to the crew and the management for organizing a professional trip. We bid adieu to our crew with group photos and pleasantries to acknowledge their 24/7 service over the past seven days.
On the penultimate day, we decided to take a short break in Manali to freshen up and rest for a few hours before heading to Chandigarh by van. Our savior, Mr. Shantanu, came to our rescue once again, arranging decent accommodation with hot water on short notice. It was like a heavenly gift to our weary team, who had pushed their minds, bodies, and bikes to the limit. We also took the opportunity to clean our riding gear, boots, and repack according to the airline’s weight allowance. We arrived at 4 pm and left by 8 pm, feeling rejuvenated in body, mind, and soul. On our trip, we had dinner in Kullu and couldn't resist picking up some Kinnaur apples from a roadside stall as a tasty souvenir for our loved ones. Though advised to wait and buy them in Manali, our last stop, we held out for 8 days but finally caved in Kullu.
It was late, and despite being in apple heaven and sneaking bites here and there, we just had to get more. Beware of those cheeky roadside vendors though—we found out later that our apples were on an involuntary diet and less on the scales there were a few rotten ones mixed in!
We still had to make our way to Chandigarh, carrying with us the memories of an unforgettable adventure and the bonds we forged along the way. We got to Chandigarh airport around 3:30 am and caught our flight to Chennai at 7 am. One of our buddies, Mr. Sukumar, an NRI from Dubai, headed to Dubai via Delhi. We had some time to chat at the airport, joking about our trip memories, including the falls we had, which were all minor thanks to the grace of the Almighty! We snapped our last photos at Chandigarh and Chennai before everyone burst back into their daily routines.
We wrapped up our journey with no mishaps or health issues, and we’re already looking forward to our next trip in 2025 to Leh Ladakh and Umlingla! It’s a journey that all of us will cherish and relish to the core!
Embarking on an exhilarating journey through the rugged terrains of Spiti Valley, our group of nine riders, known as the “Mile Munchers,” faced the ultimate test of endurance and camaraderie. Each day presented a new challenge, from navigating treacherous mountain passes to braving unpredictable weather conditions. The breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas served as both a backdrop and a reward for our perseverance. The thrill of conquering new terrains was matched only by the deep bonds we forged along the way. Every twist and turn of the road brought us closer together, creating memories that will last a lifetime. This adventure was not just about the destination, but about the journey and the shared experiences that made it truly unforgettable.
Chapter 11: Epic Ride to Spiti Valley: Unforgettable Moments and Lessons Learned
"Adventure is worthwhile in itself." — Amelia Earhart
Our Spiti Valley journey was a kaleidoscope of exhilarating and unforgettable moments. From conquering the dizzying heights of Kunzum Pass to setting up camp by the serene Chandratal Lake, each experience etched a lasting memory. Navigating treacherous roads tested our skills and endurance, but the thrill of the challenge and the breathtaking landscapes were rewards in themselves. We explored ancient monasteries, each with its own rich history and peaceful ambiance, adding a spiritual layer to our adventure. Capturing our journey on video allowed us to relive the raw beauty of Spiti Valley, while celebrating milestones and sharing meals enriched our camaraderie. The final stretch of our ride brought a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration, culminating in a sense of immense accomplishment. Ultimately, the ever-changing scenery of Spiti Valley served as a reminder of nature's untamed beauty, making this ride a truly epic adventure.
Navigating the Toughest Sections:
Each vista was a reminder of the raw, untamed beauty of nature.
Preparation: Before hitting the rough patches, we ensured our bikes were in top condition, checking tire pressure, brakes, and fuel levels. We also carried essential tools and spare parts.
Pacing Ourselves: We took it slow and steady, especially on unpaved roads and steep inclines. Maintaining a manageable speed helped us navigate safely without losing control.
Reading the Terrain: Experienced riders led the way, using their knowledge to choose the best paths through tricky sections. We watched for loose gravel, deep mud, and potential landslide areas.
Supporting Each Other: Whenever someone faced a particularly tough spot, the group rallied around to offer assistance, whether it was helping to push a bike out of the mud or providing moral support.
Staying Focused: Concentration was crucial. We stayed alert and focused on the road ahead, anticipating challenges and reacting quickly to changes in the terrain.
Taking Breaks: Regular breaks allowed us to rest, hydrate, and regroup. This kept our energy levels up and prevented fatigue from setting in.
By combining these strategies, we were able to tackle even the most challenging sections of the Spiti Valley ride with confidence and camaraderie.
Adding one more feather to my cap :
Leh, Ladakh, Manali, Gurez Valley, Kashmir, Sikkim , Arunachal , Himachal Spiti Valley ..
Disclaimer:
Penned by our rider GP Capt. Sendhil Kumar, alias Diesel, a retired fighter pilot from the Indian Air Force.
While this travelogue is an attempt to bring up first hand experience of the entire trip, it is prudent also to understand that the trip was not all hunky dory. Like they say ship is safest in the harbour but then it is not made for that purpose. Likewise a motorbike is safest in your parking lot but then you haven't bought for that, isn't it? The trip had fair share of enthralling, exquisite moments. But we did have moments of despair, panic, risk, fall, injuries and many of those otherwise dreaded escaped which we keep hearing very often. Rain, chill blains, snow, slush, streams, and boulders you think of an obstacle and it is there. That we did not have near misses and had moments of truth staring right in front of our eyes with that skipped heart beat, will be a wrong statement.
That we faced all and came triumphed speaks volumes about the camaraderie, team spirit, trust, faith and above all individual psychomotor skills to navigate and negotiate all that the road had to offer as individuals and a team as a whole. No ways, does this disclaimer proclaims to be deterrent for all avid riders to stop undertaking future rides but being cautious and venture with previous knowledge is always beneficial.
God speed, happy and safe riding!
Indelible memories ..from the past …
Journeys of Gratitude
Traversing the roads of Spiti Valley is a profound communion with nature, a bold exploration of personal limits, and a captivating embrace of the Himalayan mystique. Each rider undergoes a transformation during this journey. The isolation, untouched wilderness, and absence of mainstream motorcycling make Spiti Valley an irresistible destination. Riding a motorcycle in Spiti, located in Himachal Pradesh, is an exhilarating adventure through stunning landscapes, challenging terrains, and cultural wonders.
I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to my late father , my mother, who both gave their blessings and encouragement for my trips. My brother, who handles my responsibilities and chores in my absence. My wife, who supports my travels, and my enthusiastic children.
To my co-riders, for their exceptional support, patience, and adaptability to the difficulties and challenges we encountered. I also want to thank our organizer, Mr. Santanu Banerjee, for orchestrating the tour, and our Road Captain, Mr. Nano Malani, and the crew for looking after us throughout the eight days.
Join me in future adventures as we weave more chapters, sharing more experiences where roads merge with memories, and the horizon calls us a new.
Yours truly,
Mohamed Ali
ABOUT THE AUTHOR :
Prof.Dr.K.Mohamed Ali MBBS.,MD.,MA.,DIH.,Phd.
lkbkma@gmail.com
http://www.youtube.com/@knightrider965
Dr. K. Mohamed Ali is a qualified physician and a specialist in Community Medicine. He has published many research studies in International Medical Journals and has occupied many positions in both government and private medical colleges.
He has co authored a book - a commerative biography titled "THE ROAD TO SUCCESS "A Legend Par Excellence" The Inspiring Life of Dr. L.K.B.
He has also penned travelogues NORTH EAST ARUNACHAL AND ASSAM BIKER’S SOJOURN 2023 and A Journey from Thanjavur to Karaikal via Needamangalam A Bitter sweet Tale of Progress & Nostalgia
He is a partner in LKB Associates, National Pharma Hospital and Research Institute, and group of companies. Dr. Ali is also a Professor in the Department of Community Medicine at Vinayaka Mission’s Medical College, Karaikal.
In addition to his medical profession, he is a bike enthusiast who drives a Suzuki Shogun 1994 model that he bought during his college days and still maintains in pristine condition in addition to his Royal Enfield Interceptor.
He has a passion for long drives and has recently embarked on a string of adventure rides in the Himalayas, visiting many exotic locations. Dr. Ali has worked hard to script this travelogue, painstakingly arranging the contents, scripting the travelogue, and arranging photos and videos.
Endorsement Disclaimer:
The views and opinions expressed in this travelogue are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any agency or organisation. The author is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by any of the companies, hotels, or individuals mentioned in this travelogue.
The author acknowledges and appreciates the services and assistance provided by them during the trip, but does not guarantee or warrant the quality, accuracy, or reliability of their products or services.
Any errors or omissions in this travelogue are not the responsibility of the author.
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