Motivation:
Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, Bhutan is a land of captivating beauty, rich cultural heritage, and a unique approach to measuring happiness. Known as the "Land of the Thunder Dragon,", due to its intense thunder and lightning storms that ancient people may have believed originated from a dragon. This small kingdom has managed to preserve its traditions and natural wonders, making it a truly enchanting destination.
My motivation to visit Bhutan is to explore Buddhism, experience local culture and royal heritage and soak in the carbon neutral air at the lap of mother nature.
Join me in this blog, as I explore the hidden gems and fascinating aspects of Bhutan.
Gross National Happiness (GNH): Bhutan's Unique Philosophy
Bhutan's commitment to measuring happiness sets it apart from other nations. Instead of focusing solely on economic growth, Bhutan prioritizes Gross National Happiness (GNH). This holistic approach assesses well-being through four pillars: sustainable development, preservation of cultural values, conservation of the environment, and good governance.
To measure GNH, Bhutan conducts regular surveys called the Gross National Happiness Index. These surveys involve collecting data from a representative sample of the population using questionnaires and interviews. The surveys assess various aspects of well-being and happiness, including physical and mental health, education, income, social connections, cultural vitality, and environmental conservation.
The collected data is then analyzed to generate a comprehensive understanding of the country's well-being and happiness levels. The results help policymakers and government officials make informed decisions and prioritize policies that promote the overall happiness and well-being of the Bhutanese people.
Sustainable tourism
Bhutan has adopted a ‘high-value, low-impact’ tourism strategy to minimize the environmental footprint of tourism as much as possible. This strategy includes the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF), which requires tourists to pay a charge of $100 per person to support Bhutan’s development and environmental conservation. Indian tourists are required to pay Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of INR 1,200/- per person per night. Children aged 5 years and below are exempted of SDF and children between the age of 6-12 years are given 50 % concession on SDF. Also, you need to stay in minimum 3-star hotels and have a local guide with you at all times.
ARRIVAL AT PARO AIRPORT AND TRANSFER TO THIMPHU
We took one way flight from Guwahati to Paro to experience one of the world's most dangerous airport. The Pilot has to make a sharp turn in between 2 mountains in order to reach the airport. Also, Runway is parallel to Paro River which looks alike in case of bad weather. Hence this is one of the dangerous airport in the world.
Once the aircraft enters the Paro valley, you can look down to see the first glimpse of the Paro Dzong on the hillside overlooking Paro Chu (river) with Ta Dzong (Museum). Our Guide Yadu Ram Basnet welcomed us in a Bhutanese style with Tashi Khada (white scarf) and guided us from the airport.
Later transfer to Thimphu and overnight stay at Thimphu at LemonTree hotel (50km - 1hr 20mins).
The stay at Lemon Tree was comfortable and good. Rooms are good and clean.
Food in Bhutan: In most of the restaurants Bhutanese, Indian and Chinese dishes are available. If you are going for A-la-carte, it is better to order 1 to 1.5hrs earlier with the help of guide because they start preparing food only after they get your order and serve you freshly prepared dish.
Must Try: I highly recommend not to miss Datshi. Kewa Datshi for example, literally meaning potatoes and cheese, is a traditional Bhutanese dish made with Chilles, garlic and potatoes. Chilies here have unique taste and are quite spicy. Other varieties of Datshi are Ema Datshi (Chilly) and Shamu Datshi (Mushroom).
Other non-veg dishes we tried are Jasha Maru, Chicken Paa which were also quite yummy. Red rice with yellow dal was also awesome combination.
THIMPHU LOCAL SIGHT SEEING
Entrance Fees : Rs 300
You will find the National animal of Bhutan “Takin” in this open zoo. Takin is one of the most endangered species of the World and it is available only in Bhutan. Bhutan Takin attracts attention due to their unusual appearance. It has a skull like a goat and skeleton like a cow.
This zoo remains closed on Monday and some other national holidays. We visited this preserve first thing in the morning, where Takins can be seen near the fence. Later in the afternoon they go far from fence it seems.
While driving down the valley, you can get an amazing picture-perfect view of calm Thimphu valley.
Entrance Fees : Rs 100
Institute for Zorig Chusum (commonly known as the Painting School) where students undergo a 6-year training course in Bhutan's 13 traditional arts and crafts.
We saw different art forms like wooden carvings, paintings, slate carvings etc
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
Thimphu also introduces visitors to the culture and heritage of Bhutan. The Royal Textile Museum at Norzin Lam is a site where you will get introduced to Bhutanese textiles, some of which date back to the 1600s. Only Natural colours are used in all different textiles. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside. We could get a good overview of textiles and weaving methods inside.
Entrance Fees: Rs 1000
Simply Bhutan is a unique and exciting project whose primary aim is to conserve the culture and tradition of the Bhutanese people while creating job opportunities. The structure of the museum itself is built reusing old timber, door and window frames and numerous other materials from demolished houses.
Simply Bhutan has so much to offer its visitors. Unlike numerous museums in Bhutan and all over the world where you aren’t allowed to touch the artefacts or take photographs, things are done differently here.
A great way to showcase to visitors about the daily living of local Bhutanese people. You are greeted with a cup of Ara, a fermented rice wine, followed by scenes of mud home building, archery and concluding with a Bhutanese dance.
Some of the most interactive experience in this museum includes the following:
- We were welcomed with the drink “ara”, a fermented drink made from rice, in the small circular welcoming area, on the walls of which hung the photographs of the kings. Those who had passed on to other realms had the white “kadar” draped below the photograph. Those still alive had it draped around the top of the photograph. This is a small white scarf which symbolizes purity and is used during all ceremonies. Before drinking Ara, we have to dip right ring finger and offer it to local deity by sprinkling it 3 times and say "Le Jaychey".
· opportunity to see how the traditional Bhutanese houses were constructed. We can also see how by singing they ask forgiveness to mother nature for unknowingly killing many worms and other living creatures while cutting trees for building houses.
We also saw their traditional kitchen, different musical instruments, weapons etc
You can also try a hand at the archery and the dart game that is locally known as Khuru.
Butter Tea or SuJa is a popular drink in Bhutan made from mixing black tea with cream and butter and is perfect for keeping warm. You can have it with roasted rice and corn.
After lunch, we visited below sites,
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
Thimphu Chorten is a site for evening prayer. This destination carries a vital significance as a place for daily worship. Local people whirl the prayer wheels, lit butter lamps and pray at a small shrine inside the gate. The chorten or stupa was built in the memory of the third king, continuously circumambulated by people, murmuring mantras and spinning their prayer wheels. Construction of this landmark was the idea of Bhutan's third king, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuk ("the father of modern Bhutan '') who wished to erect a monument to world peace and prosperity. Completed in 1974 after his untimely death, it serves both as a memorial to the Late King and as a monument to peace.
Our Guide Ramji explained in details many aspects of Buddhism here but I will not be able to reproduce it exactly as explained by him. It is the guide who bring life to these sculptures and monuments otherwise we wouldnt be able to enjoy the places.
But I found an interesting page which gives some details about this place. Check it out here,
https://dorji-wangchuk.com/2023/10/25/thimphu-memorial-chorten/
Another interesting fact to add: Guide told us that, In order not to confuse the mind, based on birth time and date, he got a mantra (each person is given a mantra) which he has to chant whole lifetime by fully surrendering to that single deity.
Entry Free.
On the top of Kuensel Phodrang hill sits the statue of Sakyamuni Buddha. The 51.5-meter long bronze statue would surely attract you and the uninterrupted view of the valley would leave you spellbound. The site is also known as Buddha View Point.
What to do here?
* Relax your inner self, after all, you are in the land of Buddha.
* Try your hands in meditating.
* Take a look at different forms of Buddha statues and his manifestations in paintings.
* Enjoy panoramic views of valley.
It was very windy when we reached
there in the evening. Since photography is prohibited, I describe what I saw inside the bronze statue below:
* The statue’s chamber is decorated with paintings of different deities, dragons, and others. There are bronze Buddha statues in different postures. In addition, the chamber has 125,000 small Buddha statues placed on the four walls, also made of bronze.
* The ceiling is decorated with intricate multi-color paintings.
* The central statue is a Buddha with four faces surrounded by eight Bodhisattva. (A bodhisattva is a Buddhist deity who has attained the highest level of enlightenment, but who delays their entry into Paradise in order to help the earthbound)
* There is also a statue of Guru Rinpoche and a few smaller Buddha sculptures at the center of the chamber.
Tonight also we stayed in lemon tree hotel in Thimphu.
THIMPHU TO PUNAKHA TRANSFER via DOCHULA PASS AND SIGHTSEEINGS OF PUNAKHA
After good breakfast at LemonTree hotel, we started our journey towards Punakha via Dochula Pass.
Punakha is much backward from the chaotic city life at an elevation of 1200 m, which makes this place quite warm in winter and hot during summer.
The valley is famous for Red and white rice farming along the Pho and Mo Chu river’s stretch.
On the way to Punakha, a popular stop over destination is Dochula Pass. It's a memorial to martyrs. It takes around 45 minutes drive from Thimphu to reach Dochula. A majestic circular collection of 108 chortens stands proud amidst the dense layer of Deodar, Juniper and Alpines in surrounding. This Stupa is built as a memorial for the soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the war against insurgents.
We got dumbstruck by the picturesque landscape. The clouds and mist rolled down the valley and cut my way. As we reached Dochula little early in morning, there wasn't much crowd of tourists. As I hiked upto the highest point, I could listen every little sounds that nature was sending through air. The whistling breeze made its way through fluttering flags, the tweeting mountain birds in distance, the buzzing insects in nearby bushes were my only companion. However, couldn't get any view of surrounding mountain peaks as this place was thickly covered with clouds.
There's a small cafeteria you can visit to munch some chocolates and cookies or sip hot tea/coffee. We had some tea and cake before heading to Punakha.
Our guide ordered our preferred A-la-Carte lunch at hotel Lobesa via call. Hence our lunch was ready at the time we reached Punakha. After having yummy lunch, we proceeded further for sightseeing.
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
Also known as “the palace of great happiness”, Punakha Dzong is located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers in the Punakha–Wangdue valley. This Dzong is the most picturesque of all Bhutan ancient fortresses and it joins the mainland by an arched wooden bridge that contains many precious relics from the days when successive kings reigned the Kingdom from this Punakha valley. My eyes got popped up to know that this majestic and impressive architecture was built without using any nails.
Punakha Dzong is divided into three sections. The first courtyard is for all administrative activities. There's a white chorten and a big Bodhi tree. The second one has monastic buildings, and the innermost courtyard has a temple of Buddha.
In the southernmost courtyard is the temple where the remains of the terton, Pema Lingpa, and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal are preserved. The Zhabdrung (Unifier of Bhutan) died in Punakha Dzong, and his body is still preserved in the Machey Lhakhang (machey means 'sacred embalmed body'), which was rebuilt in 1995. The casket is sealed and may not be opened. Other than two guardian lamas, only the king and Je Khenpo may enter this room. Both come to take blessings before they take up their offices.
History of Bhutan – Before Shabdrung Rinpoche’s arrival in Bhutan, numerous clans ruled in different valleys of Bhutan, having internecine war and quarrel among themselves and with Tibet. The arrival of Zhabdrung Nawang Namgyal in 1616 is considered as the most significant era in the history of Bhutan. At that time, Ngawang Namgyal had an auspicious dream of a raven flying towards the south. He saw that the raven in his dream was the representation of Mahakali, a guardian deity. In this vision, the chief guardian deities of Bhutan offered him a home.
Ngawang Namgyal left Tibet with the sacred relic, and took the long journey to establish a new base in western Bhutan. He soon founded Cheri Monastery in the Thimphu valley. In an effort to unify Bhutan he faced five Tibetan invasions and armed conflict from rulers of local Lam Kha Nga. In the famous Battle of Five Lamas, Ngawang Namgyal prevailed over the Tibetan army. In many other battles he successfully defeated the combined forces of Tibet, Mongolia and Lam Kha Nga. Zhabdrung successfully united the country under his rule, and established the Drukpa Kagyu lineage of Buddhism across Bhutan. Thus he was the first to unite Bhutan into a single country. Zhabdrung Rinpoche, meaning “at whose feet one submits”.
This hidden treasure in the Punakha Valley connects the rest of the valley to the old administrative center of Punakha Dzongkhag. The whole deck is covered with prayer flags and provides a perfect spot for bird watching and photography.
We walked to the other end of the suspension bridge enjoying the views. There is a small cafe at the end where we had some tea and maggi.
Since the fertility temple was getting closed at this time, we decided to visit the temple next day.
We checked in into our hotel Vara. This is the most beautiful hotel we have stayed in Bhutan. With spacious clean rooms and friendly staffs, the stay was most comfortable and relaxing. We also tried foot massage in order to prepare for Tigers nest trekking :)
After good dinner and playing cards, we called it a day.
PUNAKHA TO PARO TRANSFER AND SIGHTSEEINGS
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
After checking out from hotel, on the way to Paro we visited fertility temple.
Stationed at the top of a hillock, the Chimi Lhakhang is a site dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kuenley. Known as the ‘Divine Madman,’ Lama Drukpa Kuenley is said to use songs, humor, and outrageous behavior to preach his teachings. Chimi Lhakhang temple is believed to be the temple of fertility, and the Bhutanese hold a strong belief that childless couples are blessed by Lama Drukpa Kuenley if they visit the temple and pray for a child. The road to the temple follows a picturesque rural trail through the paddy field that takes visitors to the temple from the road, and after crossing the paddy field, you will find a tiny stream from where Chimi Lhakhang is just a short climb away.
From the beautiful valley, the next destination is the picturesque Paro town, located at an elevation of 2200 m.
Paro valley is the most extensive valley in entire Bhutan and is blessed with mesmerizing nature, fertile rice fields, deep valleys, and a crystalline river. The beautiful view of the mountains, clear sky, and dense coniferous forest with chirping birds can make you fall in love with its first glimpse. En-route enjoy Paro sightseeing.
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
National Museum of Bhutan: In 1968, The National Museum of Bhutan was built, which stands inside the ancient Ta-dzong building that showcases Bhutan culture and is stationed right above Rinpung Dzong in Paro.
The historic building of Paro Ta-dzong, which houses the National Museum of Bhutan, was built in 1649 by the First governor of Paro Vally, Ponlop Tenzin Drukdra who became the 2nd Druk Desi (Temporal Head of Bhutan) and ruled the country from 1656 to 1658. He was also the half-brother of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel.
Ta-Dzong was completed in 1651 and served as an outpost and watch tower for Tibetan invasion forces.
This museum is the house of beautiful specimens from Bhutanese art and culture, with main highlights are the paintings and bronze statues, which are placed in extensive galleries, from where you can get to know a lot about Bhutan art and culture.
Entrance Fees : Rs 500
Built by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1646, the first spiritual and temporal ruler of Bhutan,the Dzong houses the monastic body of Paro, the office of the Dzongda (district administrative head) and Thrimpon (judge) of Paro district. The approach to the Dzong is through a traditional covered bridge called Nemi Zam.
The Paro town is full of Dzongs (monasteries), where you can join the monks for prayers as they wrap themselves in red robes with priceless smiles or walk down to the bed of Paro Chu and dip your feet in the cold crystalline water.
From the Dzong, by walk we reached the town via this bridge.
“The Bridge with No Fish " is the bridge that connects Paro Town to Dzong. It is one of the finest specimens in Bhutan and locals believe if one sees a fish in the river, it is an ill omen. The earlier bridge which could be folded during the war was washed away by a flood in 1969.
Finally, it was time to wear Bhutanese traditional dress Gho and Kira. One of the things that make this nation stand out from other developing nations is their dress code behavior. The traditional attire for men and women known as Gho and Kira were introduced around the 17th century by the unifier of Bhutan as a nation-state, 'Ngawang Namgyal' to display their unique identity. It is very nice to see everyone wearing similar dress.
After enjoying the night view of beautiful Paro Dzong with its lights, we headed back to our hotel Gawaling. This hotel is river side hotel with good spacious rooms too. We tried few more Bhutanese dishes here for dinner and wrapped up for the day early since we have the most awaited Tiger's nest to be visited the next day.
PARO TO TAKTSANG MONASTERY
Entrance Fees : Rs 1000
Sitting precariously 3,000 metres above the Paro valley, the Paro Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest Monastery) was built in the late 17th century on the site of a cave set into the cliff. Although we call it the Tiger’s Nest in English, Taktsang more accurately translates to “tigress’ lair” and aptly gets its name from the legend of its founding.
According to that legend, the 8th-century Indian Buddhist master Guru Rinpoche was carried up the mountain on the back of a disciple who had transformed herself into a tigress. Once they arrived, Guru Rinpoche then spent 3 years, 3 months, 3 days and 3 hours meditating in the cave. After he had finished, it became a holy place and became known as Paro Taktsang.
As the sun rays touch the beautiful Paro valley, wake up in the middle of Mother Nature and relish the beautiful view of the river and mountains in a single frame.
Our breakfast was neatly packed since we started at 6am for trekking. Tigers nest base camp was around 45min drive from the hotel. We started on time.
We had our packed breakfast sandwiches at base camp. There are horses available until cafeteria but its strongly not advised by our guide. The reason is, since its hilly region, horses are risky. Hence, we decided to walk completely.
Taktsang Monastery: After covering 1200 meters on a fierce cliff, you will reach this sacred site known as the Tiger Nest. Once you climb to the top, take a deep breath of the fresh air and soothe the eyes and soul with the stunning view of the scenic surroundings and the valley lying underneath—the Taktsang Monastery, established by Sain Guru Rinpoche in 747 CE. Construction of the complex was completed in 1694. After 3 hours of some adventurous trek, discover the Tiger Nest monastery. While trekking, witness the glorious view of the Paro town, with its lush green valleys, sparkling river, clear blue sky, and moving clouds, in-short, enjoy nature at its best.
There are no food stalls available on the trek. So carry some chocolates/dry fruits and water bottles for trekking. Thanks to the guide who carried some of our backpacks and water bottles for us. There is a cafeteria mid-way where you can refresh and refuel for further trekking.
We had some tea/coffee before restarting the trek.
One of the best views of the hike is at the point where you overlook the monastery. This is where many people snap that iconic photo.
From here, it’s a short walk down a stone staircase. You cross a bridge covered in prayer flags, and then make a slightly strenuous climb up to the monastery.
Once at the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, our guide took us on a tour of the temples. Backpacks, photography equipment, and shoes are not allowed inside of the monastery. These will need to be left with security staff located just outside of the monastery walls.
After your tour of the Tiger’s Nest, you will hike back the way you came. Make sure you get all the photos you want…this is something you will want to look back on forever.
How fit do you need to be to do this hike? Anyone of average fitness can complete this hike. Take your time, it is not a race. You may want to bring hiking poles available for rent at base point to help out your knees on the descent.
In the evening, we experienced the Traditional Hot Stone Bath (Direct Payment Basis - around 1500Rs per person for 40mins): It is very nice to experience Bhutanese hot stone baths. It is the perfect way to relax and wind down after a long day of trekking, and it is considered for numerous health benefits. It admitted that the local herbs all combine to produce medicinal benefits for joint pains, hypertension, stomach disorders and arthritis.
The process of a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath is unique. It uses Menchu (medicinal water) which is nothing but fresh river water mixed with Artemisia leaves. The water is heated using river stones that are roasted on fire till they are glowing red. The temperature of the water can be increased by adding more heated stones into a wooden chamber via a chute.
We all enjoyed hot stone bath which was very much required after trekking.
PARO TO PHUENTSHOLING TRANSFER
After yummy breakfast, we started towards Phuentsholing which is the border town between Bhutan and India. Enroute we visited Paro airport view point.
This is the finest valley viewpoint to look after Paro Valley and Paro Airport. This
viewpoint overlooks the Paro River along with all the Dzongs and Monastery.
On the way, we enjoyed beautiful valleys, mountains, some waterfalls and beautiful nature of Bhutan. Mid - way at Gedu town we had our lunch where there are 8 stupas. If you are interested to know about 8 types, do read below article,
https://bayuel.com/attractions/the-eight-great-stupas
After reaching Phuentsholing, we had to exit Bhutan and reenter again. This is because permit is only taken till Phuentsholling. We dont have to take permit to stay in Phuentsholing for 24hrs.
Our last night stay at hotel Ga Me Ga was also good. We had early dinner since we have to start again at 6am in order to reach Bagdogra for our return flight back.
PHUENTSHOLING - BAGDOGRA AIRPORT
Post packing breakfast at the Hotel and C/Out from the Hotel and proceed towards Bagdogra Airport.
Bagdogra airport is very much improved now compared to few years back when we had travelled to Sikkim from here. Very happy to see Indias infrastructure developing.
As I prepare to depart from Bhutan, I carry with me not only souvenirs and photographs but also a deeper appreciation for the Bhutanese way of life, reminding me of the importance of simplicity, compassion and inner peace. Im filled with gratitude for opportunity to immerse myself in Bhutan amidst its mountains and valleys.
Thanks to nature wings tour operator for arranging wonderful Bhutan trip for us. Thank you again to our guide Ramji for helping us to experience this wonderful country and its people. It is inspiring to see our guide following their rituals strictly amidst tough travel schedules and amidst variety of tourist visiting the country.
I highly recommend a trip to Bhutan to experience mother nature at her best, rich culture and good people.
I conclude this blog with below quote:
Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world - Gustava Flaubert.