Dharmasthala, as the name suggests, is a place where Dharma rules and the presiding deity, Manjunath, ensures that only truth prevails in the end. Located in the deep forest ranges of Mangalore, Dharmasthala is one of the prominent holy shrines of Lord Shiva in South India. People in Karnataka especially believe ardently in him to guide them on the paths of righteousness. Visiting this place filled peace in my chaotic heart. It was one of the most unique Shiva Kshetras I have ever visited.
Partially belonging to Mangalore with my chosen and extended roots, the Kadri Manjunath temple always plays a vital role in my life, uplifting my belief system in Lord Shiva. It is from this temple that my spiritual enlightenment started. Everyone in my Mangalorean circle suggested I visit Dharmasthala Kshetra to experience a different yet intense spiritual vibe of Lord Manjunath. Therefore, I decided to pay a visit and pray to him at Dharmasthala in June. Those two summer months of 2024 in Mangalore became eye-opening for me regarding people, places, and passions. Visiting this particular temple made me realize how one can humble oneself, stay grounded, and lead a balanced worldly life simply.
I took a spontaneous trip to Dharmasthala on a fine Thursday. I woke up early in the morning and decided to explore the public transportation by catching a bus. I started my journey at 8:30 am and boarded the bus at 9 am. It took me around 2 hours to travel 73 km to Dharmasthala, and the bus fare was 70 rupees on a KSRTC bus. The lush greenery during the monsoon season from Mangalore to Dharmasthala filled me with positivity and peace. I arrived at the holy shrine of Manjunath around 11:30 am. The two-hour journey, passing through various bus stations and beautiful landscapes, made me feel humble. Traveling alone in a public bus with others who were also heading to visit the deity was an amazing experience, unlike traveling in a car with my companions.
The history, significance, festivities, and ritualistic traditions of Dharmasthala were previously covered by National Geographic in "The Mega Kitchens" documentaries. When I first watched it, I decided to visit the place one day, no matter what. Fortunately, this year I was able to make the trip after spending some time in Mangalore. The Hegde family and their close involvement in founding, developing, and running the temple management is inspiring, encouraging acts of charity and spreading devotion to humankind alongside worshiping the form of righteousness. As soon as I got off the bus, I walked towards the temple premises and saw a huge welcoming arch. It displayed the gateway of Dharmasthala, with the Hegde family name embellished on it, and Shiva standing with his trident, looking over the crowd that visits the temple premises.
After passing through the arch and walking towards the temple, I came across several buildings where devotees can stay for a few days to visit Dharmasthala and for various rituals. Continuing on for a few miles, I reached a large copper-coated sculpture of Shiva with his mount Nandi. It was truly impressive and spiritually captivating. Passing by several shops, vendors, and stalls, I eventually arrived at the main shrine, which had three entrances on three different sides. Upon reaching the main entrance paths, I caught sight of the landscape of Dharmasthala Manjunatha.
The temple was bustling with devotees, and as luck would have it, I arrived during bhog time, when the temple was closed for a few hours. Fortunately, I had booked the Seegra Darshan seva, which allowed devotees to quickly reach the sanctum and have a close-up view of the god, for a nominal fee of two hundred rupees. I had to wait in line for about an hour until the bhog time ended, but it was well worth it. While standing in the queue with thousands of other devotees, I had the opportunity to admire the beautiful architecture within the temple premises.
After waiting for an hour and a half, I finally entered the inner sanctum of Dharmasthala Manjunatha. There's a rule that every male devotee must remove their shirts or kurtas to be bare-chested when visiting inside the temple. This rule emphasizes shedding ego and submitting completely to the righteousness of Manjunatha. Everyone is treated equally, and every man must have darshan bare-chested. The spiritual aura inside the temple is indescribable. It heightens one's spiritual experience, especially for those who believe in the simplicity of Lord Shiva. Inside the sanctum, one can also have darshan of Goddess Parvati, Ganesha, Kumaraswamy, Kalarahu, Kalarakayi, and Kanyakumari.
The temple is unique because it blends various cultural roots and construction histories. It reflects Jainism traditions, and unlike other Shiva temples where Shaiva Brahmins perform rituals, in this temple, Madhwa Brahmins, who follow Vaishnavism, conduct the rituals for Shiva. The Heggades and Peragade family members of Dharmasthala still run and manage the temple.
When it comes to the temple management, Dharmasthala is well-known for the presence of Annapurna. After visiting the temple, I left after receiving the Manjunatha Prasaadam as part of the seva I had enrolled in. Once outside, I took some pictures of the temple surroundings and couldn't resist taking a photo of myself barechested after having a beautiful darshan. Then, I followed the paths that led to Annapurna, one of the Mega Kitchens that has even been featured on the National Geographic channel before.
Anna Daanam, the act of giving food to those in need, is considered a sacred and righteous practice. In Hinduism, the wife of Shiva, Parvati, is revered as Annapurna, the goddess of food and nourishment. Many people partake in meals provided in her name. Every day, this particular charitable food hall serves thousands and even hundreds of thousands of devotees. On the day I visited, there were many people like me who had come to enjoy the prasaadam, the blessed food offered to devotees after worship. The hall was spacious and well-lit, with large fans and long tables and chairs. As per South Indian tradition, the food was served on banana leaves. My meal consisted of rice, curry, gravy, sambar, and pickle, followed by a sweet prasaadam. I believe that everyone should experience the feeling of sharing a meal with thousands of other devotees to truly appreciate the value of food. This place has the power to humble and dispel anyone's ego.
The spiritual awareness here happens if someone opens up one's personality to change one's path towards the righteousness and feel the essence of Manjunatha-the one who personifies the truth. After my lunch, I have explored the premises in and around the temple once again and capture a few pictures and videos to fill the memories in my mind. I sat at one place right opposite to the temple's main entrance and filled the whole scenario in my eyes. I have roamed a bit here and there but I was already getting late to catch a bus that connects to Mangalore. So I couldn't explore the waterfalls and mountain range that connects with the exteriors of the temple premises. And then I walked along till the bus station to court the bus back to Mangalore.
I found public transportation to be the best option for me, as it cost me only five hundred rupees to visit the temple and cover my travel expenses. It's an affordable way to experience the greenery along the way. Visiting Dharmasthala during the monsoon season allowed me to witness the scenic beauty of the area amidst the rains, making it one of the most beautiful experiences I've had in Dakshina Kannada, Karnataka. If you ever find yourself in Mangalore and are a devout believer in Lord Shiva, I highly recommend visiting the Dharmasthala temple. There are accommodations available near the temple, and you can also explore nearby temples, such as the Kukke Subramanya Swamy temple, which is very close to Dharmasthala. I'll provide more information about it in my next blog. Until then, Har Har Mahadev.