Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days)

Tripoto
1st Nov 2024
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Among all the destinations in India, we realized we had yet to explore the northeastern region. This year, we decided to plan a trip to Meghalaya, often referred to as the "Scotland of India." In this post, we share our experiences, treasured memories, and lessons learned during our 12-day family trip with four members (two adults and two kids), so fellow traveler's can benefit from our journey.

Day 1

Day 1: Mumbai to Guwahati

We flew from Mumbai to Guwahati, landing at 10:40 p.m. Although we had the option of taking a morning flight and heading straight to Kaziranga, we felt it would involve too much travel in a single day. Instead, we chose an evening flight and stayed close to the airport to minimize travel fatigue.

To simplify logistics, we had pre-booked a car for the entire trip, ensuring we didn’t need to arrange pickups and drop-offs each time. Our car was ready and waiting for us to pick up at Guwahati Airport. For the night, we stayed at Nehu Guest House, located less than a kilometer from the airport, and took the opportunity to rest and recharge.

Day 2

Day 1: Guwahati to Kaziranga National Park

Our first stop was Kaziranga National Park, a 5-hour drive from Guwahati. We began our day at 7:00 a.m., planning for the kids to nap during the journey and stop midway for breakfast. Along the way, we were thrilled to catch our first glimpse of the famous one-horned rhinoceros, the pride of Kaziranga. There are several viewpoints en route where you can pause to observe rhinos, buffaloes, and elephants in their natural habitat.

We arrived at Aranya Lodge at noon, a property managed by the Assam Tourism Development Corporation. While it is a government-run lodge, we found the rooms clean and the garden beautifully maintained. We had booked one of their garden cottages—there are only four such cottages on the property. The lodge is conveniently located near the Bagori Gate, which is the entrance to the park's Western Range.

Our first jeep safari was scheduled for the afternoon slot, from 1:30 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. Unlike safaris in some other parts of India, at Kaziranga, you can start at any time within your allotted slot and enjoy up to two hours of exploration. The jeep officer picked us up directly from the lodge and dropped us off after the safari, making the experience seamless and enjoyable.

Jeep safaris at Kaziranga National Park allow up to six people per vehicle. Children under 5 years old can ride for free, but those aged 5 and above are charged the full adult fare. There is no official website for online safari bookings, so we made our reservations through Aranya Lodge, the government-run property where we stayed.

Tip: While booking, we noticed that our safari permit mentioned a website (www.kazirangasafari.in). Although we haven’t personally used it, this might be the official platform for safari reservations.

We paid ₹3,000 for our jeep safari for three people (two adults and one child), as our younger son, being under 5, was not charged. This fee covered the safari permit, jeep charges, and camera cost. Our first safari was an amazing experience! We spotted several rhinos shortly after entering the park—Kaziranga is home to a large population of rhinos, and many can be seen up close from the jeep. They are safe to observe as long as their habitat is not disturbed. We also saw elephants and wild buffaloes, though we didn’t catch a glimpse of the elusive tiger.

Mistake #1: Since our trip was right after the monsoon season, some parts of the park were still waterlogged and inaccessible. If you want to explore the entire park, consider visiting between January and March, when all zones are open.

During the safari, the jeep made a brief stop near a machan (watchtower) overlooking the river, providing a scenic and peaceful view. By 5:00 p.m., the jeep dropped us back at the lodge. We had dinner and called it a day, feeling content with our first safari experience.

Wild buffaloes

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Rhinos - Kaziranga National Park

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Rhinos family

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 3

Day 3: Kaziranga National Park to Shillong

We noticed that sunrise in this part of the country is quite early, around 5:30 a.m. For our next adventure, we had booked an elephant safari, with the specific timeslot assigned by the forest department a day in advance. Our slot was scheduled for 6:00 a.m., and the safari lasted an hour. Traveling in our own vehicle, we reached the Central Zone for the elephant safari. Each elephant accommodates up to four adults. The experience was truly unforgettable as we rode through dense forests shrouded in misty winter fog, witnessing wildlife up close as they started their day. The proximity to the animals and the serene ambiance of the forest made this a special moment for us. We paid ₹1,000 per person for the elephant safari for three members (two adults and one child).

Our second jeep safari for the day was booked in the Kohora range, with a timeslot from 7:30 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. After returning to the lodge for a quick breakfast, we set off again. The jeep driver picked us up from the lodge and dropped us back afterward, making the process seamless. We began the safari at 8:30 a.m. and enjoyed spotting wild buffaloes and rhinos. A highlight of the jeep safari was stopping at a machan (watchtower), which provided breathtaking panoramic views of the forest from above.

After completing the safari, we got ready to continue our journey to Shillong, our next destination, which was a 6-hour drive away. We arrived in Shillong around 7:00 p.m. and had dinner at Jiva South in Police Bazar, where we relished some delicious South Indian cuisine. We ended the day by checking into Ken & Twill Guest House for a much-needed rest.

Elephant safari - Kaziranga National Park

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Elephant family

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Crested Serpent Eagle

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 4

Day 4: Shillong

We began our day with breakfast at Ken & Twill Guest House and then set out to explore Shillong's popular attractions. Our first stop was Shillong Peak, located within the Air Force area. To reach the viewpoint, a separate vehicle is required, and there is an entry fee of ₹100 per person. The peak offers stunning panoramic views of Shillong.

Next, we visited the beautiful Elephant Falls, known for its three cascading layers of waterfalls. The entry fee here is ₹50 per person. After taking in the natural beauty, we stopped for lunch at ML 05 Café, a spot renowned for its music, cozy seating, and scenic location.

Our sightseeing continued with a visit to the Air Force Museum, which showcases various aircrafts and has an entry fee of ₹40 per person. We then explored Lady Hydari Park, a well-maintained and clean garden with an entry fee of ₹50. We also visited the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, a striking blue church with a unique structure and expansive premises.

Mistake #2: Unfortunately, we missed visiting Wards Lake, which is closed on Tuesdays. This is one of Shillong's iconic attractions, especially known for its cherry blossom trees during the blooming season. Despite missing Wards Lake, the day was packed with memorable experiences and beautiful sights.

Elephant Falls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 5

Day 5: Shillong to Cherrapunji

After breakfast, we checked out from Shillong and headed to our next destination, Cherrapunji. Knowing that sunset occurs early, around 4:30 p.m., we started our journey early to maximize our sightseeing, as there’s little to explore after sunset.

Our first stop was Laitlum Canyon, where the parking fee is ₹50.

Tip: There’s a separate section of the canyon marked as private property, requiring an additional entry fee of ₹10 per person. It’s well worth visiting for breathtaking views. This area also has slides for kids and offers horse riding for an extra activity.

Next, we visited Duwan Sing Syiem Viewpoint, which has an entry fee of ₹30. To reach the waterfall here, we paid ₹100 per person and walked down 100–150 steps. The crystal-clear water and observation deck provide an excellent spot for photography. Ziplining is also available for ₹1,000 per person. Unfortunately, due to a lunch break from 1:00 p.m. to 2:00 p.m., we missed this activity. Our driver suggested we could try ziplining in Shnongpdeng later during the trip.

At Wah Kaba Falls, we paid an entry fee of ₹20 per person. A walk of 200–250 steps takes you to the top of the waterfall, offering a spectacular view.

Our last stop for the day was the famous Nohkalikai Waterfall, where the entry fee is ₹100, and parking costs ₹30. This is an iconic location to watch the sunset while enjoying the magnificent waterfall. There’s also a trekking path to the waterfall, but we decided to skip it as it takes 2–3 hours.

We had dinner at Orange Roots, a nearby pure vegetarian restaurant offering delicious meals, before heading to Sa-i-Mika Resort, our stay for the night in Cherrapunji. The day was packed with stunning views and memorable experiences!

Laitlum Canyon

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Wah Kaba Falls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Nohkalikai Waterfall

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Nohkalikai Waterfall

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Sunset at Nohkalikai Waterfall

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 6

Day 6: Cherrapunji

Our stay at Sa-i-Mika Resort was a delightful experience, nestled in the heart of nature. We stayed in a stream-view cottage, which offered a serene ambiance. Early in the morning, we went for a refreshing trek, immersing ourselves in the tranquil surroundings before planning our day.

Our first stop was Arwah Caves, with an entry fee of ₹50 per person. These caves are moderately challenging compared to the more difficult Mawsmai Caves. The exploration offered fascinating views of stalactites, stalagmites, and fossils.

Next, we visited the Umstew Viewpoint, which provides a stunning vantage point for Wah-Kaba Waterfalls. Located conveniently off the highway, this spot offers panoramic views of the valley. The entry fee is ₹20 per person.

Our exploration continued at the Garden of Caves, a serene location featuring waterfalls, caves, a bamboo bridge, natural rock formations, healing springs, vibrant flowers, and ancient trees. The entry fee is ₹100 per person, and it’s a must-visit for nature enthusiasts.

We then headed to Lyngksiar Falls, one of the cleanest and most beautiful waterfalls we visited. Visitors can swim here using life jackets, available for ₹100 per person. The area is peaceful and perfect for spending a couple of hours amidst nature.

As the day drew to a close, we returned to enjoy snacks at Orange Roots before heading back to our resort. We had a delicious dinner at Sa-i-Mika Resort and ended the day on a relaxing note, soaking in the natural beauty of Cherrapunji.

Sa-i-Mika Resort - Stream view cottage

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Arwah Caves

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Garden of Caves

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Lyngksiar Falls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Lyngksiar Falls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 7

Day 7: Cherrapunji

We knew this would be a challenging day, as we had dedicated it entirely to trekking to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge. It took us about 30 minutes in our vehicle to reach Tyrna village, the starting point of the trek. Guides are available from the parking area for ₹1,000, and you can also rent walking sticks for ₹60, which are returnable at the end of the trek.

A living root bridge is a natural suspension bridge formed from the roots of rubber trees. To reach the Single Decker Bridge, we descended about 2,500 feet through lush greenery and dense forest, covering a distance of roughly 3 km. From there, an additional climb of 1,000 stairs led us to the Double Decker Bridge, making it a total of approximately 3,500 steps one way.

Tip: Don’t be discouraged by the number of steps—the route is absolutely breathtaking! Along the way, you’ll pass clean villages, waterfalls, colorful butterflies, and several small and large bridges. The stunning scenery keeps the trek enjoyable and engaging throughout.

Upon reaching the Double Decker Bridge, we relaxed by dipping our feet in the stream, enjoying a natural fish pedicure. For those seeking more adventure, you can trek another 30 minutes to the Rainbow Waterfall, where you can take a refreshing dip.

The trek took us about 6 hours, considering we had kids with us. We were incredibly proud that our younger one completed the trek on his own! After returning to the resort, we spent the evening unwinding, enjoying the sunset from the seating area outside our room with a cup of coffee. Dinner at the resort was a lively affair, with live music featuring a mix of Khasi and Bollywood songs.

Tip: The trek to the Double Decker Bridge and back takes the entire day. Start early and plan nothing else for the day except to relax afterward.

Double Decker Living Root Bridge

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 8

Day 8: Cherrapunji - Mawlynnong Village - Dawki - Shnongpdeng Village

After having breakfast, we checked out from the resort and set out for Mawlynnong Village, a 2.5-hour drive away. Often referred to as the "Cleanest Village in Asia," Mawlynnong offers several attractions to explore, including the Single Root Bridge, Bamboo Bridge, Balancing Rock, and the Bangladesh Viewpoint. Each spot has a nominal entry fee.

For lunch, we stopped at Shangyiar Food Corner, located at the entrance of the village. Despite the limited food options, the vegetarian thali we tried was delicious, reasonably priced, and satisfying.

From Mawlynnong, we headed to the Dawki River, stopping briefly at Borhill Waterfalls, which is conveniently located by the roadside.

Mistake #3: Our driver stopped near Dawki, and local boys offered to facilitate boating for ₹1,200 at the counter. In hindsight, we realized this likely included their commission. It’s better to go directly to the counter without assistance from locals who may approach you.

The boat ride on the Dawki River was serene. The ride took us to the Bangladesh border, where we saw groups of people enjoying picnics. During the ride, we observed locals fishing, tiny water trails flowing down the rocks, and the tranquil beauty of the surroundings. However, contrary to popular belief, November is not the ideal month to see the river in its crystal-clear state.

Our next destination, Shnongpdeng Village, turned out to be a far better option for experiencing crystal-clear water. It’s a 45-minute drive from Dawki and offers a more picturesque setting. We decided to stay overnight at Aurelia Homestay, which provided comfortable accommodations with attached washrooms—an essential factor considering the winter climate.

Tip: If you’re short on time, you may skip Dawki river boating and head straight to Shnongpdeng. To enter the village, there’s an entry fee of ₹100, and car parking costs ₹100. While there are options for staying in tents along the riverbank, we chose the homestay for added comfort. Shnongpdeng proved to be a peaceful and enchanting retreat for the night.

Mawlynnong Village

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Mawlynnong Village - Church

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Borhill Waterfalls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Dawki river

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Bangladesh border viewpoint

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 9

Day 9: Shnongpdeng village to Phe Phe falls

Start your day early at 5:30 a.m. to experience a peaceful sunrise at Shnongpdeng. A walk along the Shnongpdeng bridge during the early morning hours is serene and crowd-free, offering a perfect start to the day. After breakfast provided by the homestay, we headed for a boat ride at 9:00 a.m. The crystal-clear water of the river allowed us to see underwater fishes, making the experience magical. The boat ride takes you to a waterfall, where the boat makes a U-turn and stops at a cliff for cliff jumping. The ride cost ₹600, significantly cheaper and more enjoyable compared to Dawki River.

We also tried kayaking, priced at ₹500 per kayak for two people, and the kids enjoyed ziplining, which cost ₹700 per person. The ziplining experience was thrilling as it crosses the river and returns to the base, making it a must-do activity.

Next, we moved to Krang Suri Waterfall, which has an entry fee of ₹100. The walk to the waterfall takes about 30-45 minutes, and the scenic beauty along the way is captivating. At the site, music was playing, and life jackets were available for those who wanted to swim near the falls.

After spending time at the waterfall, we decided to head to our resort, Loomkyntoor Resort, where we had booked a cottage with a private pool. The resort is surrounded by majestic mountains, and swimming in the private pool amidst this natural setting was an unforgettable experience. As the night set in, the temperature dropped significantly due to the mountainous surroundings, making it the perfect end to a fulfilling day. One can also enjoy bonfire in the winter climate.

Shnongpdeng bridge

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Krang Suri Waterfall

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 10

Day 10: Phe Phe falls to Umiam Lake (Shillong)

Early in the morning at 5:30 a.m., I went for a peaceful walk from the backyard of the resort. This private trail led to a small waterfall and a tranquil seating area where the soothing sound of chirping birds added to the serenity. After breakfast, we checked out of the resort and headed to Phe Phe Falls, located just a short drive away. The route to the falls winds through scenic mountain roads. From the parking area, it’s a 30-minute walk to reach one of the most stunning waterfalls in Meghalaya. The entry fee is ₹50 per person, and life jackets are available for ₹100. We swam in the blue lagoon and under the waterfall, and the refreshing experience washed away all our fatigue. Changing room facility is also available. Afterward, we trekked back to the parking area.

Next, we traveled to Umiam Lake, near Shillong, to enjoy the sunset. The entry fee is ₹100 per person, and we opted for a short speedboat ride costing ₹200 per person for a 3-minute ride. Watching the sun set over the calm waters of Umiam Lake was a serene and picturesque experience.

For our overnight stay, we chose Sylvan Horizon Resort, which offers villas and rooms with stunning views of a swimming pool.

Tip: For those with more time, you can also visit Tyshri Falls and Larang Viewpoint in Jowai. However, we prioritized experiencing the sunset at Umiam Lake and skipped these spots.

Phe Phe Falls

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela

Umiam Lake

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 11

Day 11: Umiam Lake to Guwahati

After enjoying breakfast and an early morning swim in the private pool, we set off for Guwahati from Umiam Lake, a journey of about three hours. Once we arrived, we stopped for a quick meal at McDonald’s in Guwahati.

In the afternoon, we decided to visit the Guwahati Zoo. The last entry during winters is at 4:00 p.m., and the ticket price is ₹ 31 per person, with a parking fee of ₹ 50. The zoo also offers battery-operated vehicles for convenient transportation around the premises. We spent about two hours exploring the zoo, observing a variety of animals, including deer that were freely roaming along some pathways. It was a pleasant and informative experience, especially for the kids.

In the evening, you can explore the local malls, as Guwahati is a bustling city with plenty of shopping and entertainment options to enjoy before concluding your trip.

Guwahati Zoo

Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Photo of Memories and Mistakes – Meghalaya trip (12 days) by Ameet Kela
Day 12

Day 12: Guwahati

On the day of our departure back to Mumbai, we decided to visit the ISKCON Temple before heading to the airport. After a serene visit, we reached Guwahati Airport at 2:00 p.m. for our return flight.

Reflecting on the journey, I must admit that Meghalaya truly exceeded all expectations. Its serene peace, breathtaking waterfalls, misty landscapes, intriguing caves, vibrant cherry blossom flowers, adventurous trekking trails, diverse wildlife, and the unmatched cleanliness of its villages and rivers made it a complete package. Meghalaya offered everything one could ask for in a perfect trip, leaving us with memories to cherish forever.

You can check out some of the pictures and videos from this incredible trip on my Instagram account: @ameetkela