Caves, Waterfalls, and Jungles in Meghalaya - A 8D/7N Itinerary for perfect Summer [2024]

On 15th May, we caught morning 8:30 am flight from Bangalore to Guwahati reaching around noon. We had not booked anything for this day, and had kept option of Brahmaputra River Cruise (only online option, others require phone/in-person booking) in the evening and the local city sightseeing (e.g. Srimanta Sankardev Kalakshetra, State Zoo, Umananda Temple, Ropeway) as the time permits.

However, closer to the departure date, we found out that there is Rajasthan vs Punjab IPL-2024 match in the Guwahati on the same evening, for which tickets were available even then at somewhat reasonable prices. So, we decided to add that to our experience, for the sake of my younger cricket enthusiastic son. Our stay was pre-booked at Rains Inn (4/5).

After taking pre-paid taxi from the airport to the hotel (850/-) and having the lunch at the hotel itself (3/5), we checked-in for a nap. We went to ACA stadium at evening 5 pm and returned post mid-night. Dinner was had at Ethnic Taste (5/5) closer to stadium gate-3 around 6 pm before the game started.

Next day, we left for Shillong after breakfast. Enroute, we visited the famous Kamakhya temple. To our dismay, the temple had a huge queue with wait time anywhere from 4-6 hours (so we were told). However, there is another way for darshan where you get to see the deity without going to garbh-griha, which was shorter. Many local touts offered to take us there for a small fee, but you don't need their services and can just ask around and get in. You can get in and out in under an hour if you like, though we spent another hour just sitting. Since animal sacrifice is offered at this temple, there were many goats roaming (no blood/carcasses when we visited, but could have been), which we found difficult to explain to young kids.

On the way to Shillong, we stopped by Umiam Lake. One can do boating (something like 1200/- for 10 passengers for 5 min motorboat, jet-ski also available) or spend time walking around experiencing open air breeze and natural jungle. When we reached around 2:30 pm, ticket counter was closed with no notice of its opening, and weather turned cloudy and rainy. We didn't bother for boat ride and instead enjoyed the lake water and walk along the jogging track. Since we had to go to Shillong the same day, we departed in 2 hours though one can spend 3-4 hours here leisurely enjoying the nature.

Next morning, after sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, we went for Lady Hydari Park (3/5), though this is skippable. It's a small park with kids' play area and attached mini zoo. We were informed that many animals were now shifted out, but we could still see a few bears, eagle, monkey, ducks, birds, etc. Cages were smaller than what we felt desirable, specially for the monkey and the bears.

Next, we departed for Mawphlang Sacred Forest (4/5). Full trail in the forest (800/-) was closed when we visited, and we did half-kilometer half trail (450/-). I personally didn't find the "sacred" part of story convincing except perhaps that it is myth perpetuated to preserve the forest. Overall, it was nice jungle walk. Guide isn't needed but is compulsorily charged. Since there is one guide per group of upto ten tourists, shorter groups had to pay more. Beside forest, you have a large open grassland where you can do picnics or enjoy the peace. Khasi Heritage Village (3/5) nearby is another attraction, though name is misnomer since you cannot experience village ambience except model (closed) huts. Consider it another nature/jungle walk and place for pictures beside huts. There is a small snack shop outside, which also had rice meals, and juice/tea shop inside. My younger one had fun time climbing on rickety furnitures of all the huts.

I had planned Shillong Peak thereafter, but we got done by 4 pm which was late as peak had closed by then. It was a planning miss from my part, for sure. Instead, we went to Elephant Falls (4/5). It's a nice three-tier fall, with last one fairly magnificent but not tall fall. You can get into the water here but not bath.

Our itinerary of the day was to reach Dawki via Jowai, covering few falls, temples, and viewpoints along the way. We left by around 11 am for the first spot of Laitlum Canyons (4/5) which are large deep canyons. One gets to enjoy breathtaking views and scary depths wandering on very large grassland with clouds in the face. Local vendors had the usual snacks/soda/chips/fruits, and there were 2-3 village restaurants. Views on the way are breathtaking as well. Given the amount of time we spent here today, and yesterday on forest, it seems just open natural land is what pleases our family a lot.

We skipped Nartiang Monoliths in the interest of time and went straight to Phe Phe Falls (3/5). There are two ways to reach the falls, and the way Google Maps shows has the shorter trek, but our driver dropped us at the beginning of the longer way. We had to take a boat ride (50/- for 50 feet crossing), walk for 2.5 kilometers, and trek for another thousand steps (20 minutes) before we reached the falls. It was getting dark in the evening so we hurried, though landscape is beautiful walking beside trickles of what would be Phe Phe fall later. Trek is tiring and not suitable for those with knee problems. Fall itself isn't beautiful but the pool beneath is; and one can swim as well. This is the part which I love, and I can swim in natural fresh cool water for hours. There were renting life jackets (100/-) which are advisable so you can go deep into, including under the real fall.

We reached Dawki by night 9 pm. It's a small village even in the day so pretty much everything was closed by then. Thankfully, we found a small eatery (Food Planet, 3/5) open for dinner. After a vegetarian thali (150/-) we checked in for the night at The Dawki View Guest House (4/5).

First thing next morning we did, after breakfast, after skipping bath, was to go to Shnonpdeng for watersports. In reviews read during preparation and in our imaginations, this was the area which had crystal clear waters so clean that one could see pebbles on river bed and fishes. As can perhaps be guessed by my preface, that was not to be. Locals told us that Nov-Dec period is when such clear water can be seen, and May isn't right time due to rainy season, but I am not sure if that is reality or just marketing spiel!

After this, we went to visit the India-Bangladesh border. It's always interesting to see international borders even if there is nothing particular there. Gates on Bangladesh side was closed but India side open. There was a Border Security Force (BSF) checkpoint with three guards casually sitting but nothing particularly 'security' worthy. We are told that there are hundreds of CCTVs there, though.

Consequence of this was that when we reached Mawlynnong, it was late in the afternoon. Further, as the most shops and restaurants were closed on Sunday, as local region is heavily Christianity dominated, we were left on mercy of two open restaurants for lunch, who effectively leveraged this opportunity to charge 200/- for least palatable food one could have eaten anywhere in the world. We had luxury of enjoying watery dal, fried spice-less flavour-less sabji, and barely cooked rice at Beth Hotel (1/5).

After another ticket to village for entry, we wandered around to see what was once claimed to be the Asia's Cleanest Village, with suspect origins of the aforementioned claim, as source is no longer found (at least on internet search), but has effectively milked that distinction to attract tourist since the last 20 years. Yes, it's clean alright. But it is not a village in any usual sense of the word. There are no fields, or cattle, or even shops there (at least in the area open to tourists). Every house is a (paid) guesthouse for tourists. We didn't find any other activity or sign of life beside tourism. Entry to village is gated with no thoroughfare. Sure, it is clean, but then it is more of a gated community than a public village.

Next was a trek to the living root bridge (4/5). After another half-hour trek, we reached a picturesque area with root bridge and flowing water, where one can happily spend some time amidst sounds of nature. While village tour can be skipped, this was definitely interesting experience to have.

After breakfast, we stopped by Seven-Sister falls (3/5), which was one of the few falls where one haa to just see from afar without having to trek down, though that also meant that we didn't spend more than 15 minutes there. Isn't it ironic that what irks in a tiring trek is also what makes that experience memorable? Pleasure easily obtained isn't regarded as highly.

Lunch was planned at Jiva Grill (5/5), which is highly recommended for fine-dining experience for service, ambience, menu and taste altogether. Apart from the restaurant, it is also a beautiful resort, so your stop here will be well enjoyed.

Next was a short stop-over at Nohkalikai Falls (3/5), which is considered one of the tallest fall, but because you just see from far it's not that interesting.

It was late afternoon by the time we finished, and since most attractions close by evening 6-ish pm, our driver suggested adding Eco Park (4/5) as the last stop of the day, and thank God he did. During my planning reviews based on pictures, I had categorized this nothing more than simple city park, but it turned out to be much more. Park adjoins a deep ravine, similar to Laitlum canyons, and is crossed by a very shallow stream which culminates in the fall in that ravine. Stream is barely few inches deep so one could walk all the way soaking the sun, wind, water, sound and feeling of being one with nature. Kids could do little playing and running around - so that was added plus.

On seventh and the last day of trip, we visited Ramakrishna Mission ashram & school, primarily to pay respect and make a modest donation, but also found small but interesting tribal museum (4/5) there.

Next stop was the Garden of Caves (5/5), which can be perhaps better called the garden of falls, since it is mostly collection of multiple small waterfalls. While there are eleven attractions in theory, only 4-5 are really interesting. In all, one can spend 2 hours at this place.

There are multiple falls nearby in that part of Cherrapunji i.e. Wah Kaba Falls, Wei Sawdong, and Prut Falls, and we had to pick one and we did Lyngsiar Falls (4/5). Again, fall wasn't huge or noisy, but trek was relatively easy, and water was cool & blue and perfect for swimming. Path of the fall was also amazing (including caves, we didn't visit since we were running late) too. Recommended to rent life jackets (50/-) since water is deep but you get to go to under the fall!

In the evening, we visited Arwah Caves (3/5). Online reviews had us convinced that this was longer but less pretty version of caves compared to Mawsmai caves, so we were fairly disappointed when we found that caves were just 300 meters deep. Detailed read for both is linked here. In the search for way further, we crawled into crevices and pitch dark tunnels encountering bats and horror movie like fears, making the experience very memorable! The path to caves is also abutting deep canyons and very picturesque. Many websites recommended taking the guide - we didn't find when we visited by evening 5 pm though - but they are not needed as per our experience.

We wanted another fine-dining experience on penultimate day at Polo Orchids (1/5). While we paid more than that at Jiva or Vivanta, experience was very pathetic for all the dishes, both in taste and portion sizes. I can give a points for ambience but that cannot be saviour for the restaurant. Absolutely not recommended. Roadside Maggie will taste the same at one-tenth the cost.

One of the unique experiences at Cherrapunji is 3 hour one-way trek to Double Decker Root bridge, and then further to Blue Lagoon & Rainbow Falls. One day should be allocated to this as overall duration may be 8-9 hours depending on time spent enjoying the fall. Early start in the morning before 8 am is recommended to return by sunset. We didn't do this, of course, but wished we had.

Many waterfalls in Cherrapunji area are bathing-friendly and you should definitely plan accordingly to really experience the unique opportunity. Water was chilling cold, but tolerable, even in May, though. Of course, this meant that we carried quite many backpacks every day for wet clothes, dry clothes, towels, and post bath jackets.