Kuari Pass trek | And the scenic Khullara campsite

Although Kuari Pass is an all-season trek, each season brings its own unique charm. Among its many highlights, Khullara campsite stands out as one of the most picturesque spots, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayas.

This article is the continuation from Part 1 of Kuari Pass trek, where I share experiences from my personal diary in hopes of bringing you along on this incredible journey. Let us begin!

Day 3: 01/10/24 | The Challenge – Gulling to Khullara

After a cold, cocoon-like night in our sleeping bags, I woke up at 6 AM to a breathtaking morning. Though the night’s chill still lingered, the sky had lightened, and we were just waiting for the sun's first rays to reach the campsite and bless us with a little warmth.

The day began with a comforting cup of hot lemon tea. Braving the ice-cold water from a nearby stream, I somehow managed to wash up, my hands tingling with the sharp bite of the cold. Breakfast was a hearty spread of sandwiches and milk, fueling us for the day ahead.

Oh, and a little side note—if you’ve ever experienced the adventure of using a toilet tent, you’ll know it’s not for the faint-hearted!

After packing our trek bags and wrestling our sleeping bags into their cases, we set out for the day’s destination: Khullara campsite. I'd heard a lot about this place—its serenity, its beauty—that I couldn’t wait to see it for myself. We hit the trail at around 8 AM, ready for the 5 km trek through dense forests, which, as it turned out, was the most challenging climb of the entire 30 km trek.

Why? Two main reasons: the trail was steep, with no clear path, and the wet, slushy ground made every step a bit more strenuous. The golden rules of trekking became our mantra: move at a steady, slow pace, and keep hydrating and snacking. That was our survival guide for the day.

Remember Pandu, the adorable black-and-white mountain dog I mentioned earlier? He was with us throughout, faithfully walking alongside us the whole way. Every time we stopped, he stopped. When we moved, he moved. For a dog lover like me, it was one of those moments that made the trek feel even more special.

The trail itself didn’t offer many scenic views, until we reached Khullara. The grasslands spread out like a natural canvas, framed by majestic mountains that left us speechless. It took a few minutes to truly absorb the beauty around us, the sheer vastness of it all.

Khullara is a common stop for most trekking groups, and with its wide open space, there was plenty of room for everyone. But the cherry on top was that our trek leader found a secluded spot higher up, so it felt like the entire place was ours. The view? Nothing short of spectacular—an unobstructed panorama of the Himalayas.

I was among the first half of the group to reach the campsite around 1 PM. We found some boulders nearby and spent the next hour just soaking in the moment, having some of those deep, life-changing conversations that seem to happen only when you’re in the middle of nowhere with strangers who become friends. That’s one of the things I love about trekking—when you hear stories you’ve never heard before, and share experiences you’ve never had, it shifts your perspective and leaves you reflecting on your own life.

By 2:30, when the rest of the group finally arrived, we had lunch. While some took a quick nap afterward, I returned to my spot on the boulders with my diary, looking for some quiet time to write. Time seemed to drift by without me noticing until someone called me for soup—apparently, evening had already arrived.

After sipping on some hot soup, Arnab, Nitin sir and I (along with Pandu) decided to explore the area. Ishita pulled out her sketchbook to draw the mountains, and Uma ma’am joined her. The short, scenic walk led us to a small hill where we sat for a while, taking in the incredible view of Mount Dronagiri. It stood tall, bathed in the soft, golden hues of the setting sun—so close it felt like we could almost touch it. Watching the last rays of sunlight caress the peak was nothing short of mesmerizing.

As the cold crept in after sunset, we headed back to camp. Before dinner, Nitin sir regaled us with more of his travel stories, and we found ourselves gazing up at the stars. Ishita finally figured out her phone’s pro mode and captured some amazing shots of the night sky, complete with the Milky Way stretching across the horizon.

The night was much colder than before, so instead of eating outside like we did in Gulling, we huddled inside the kitchen tent for dinner. TSS once again impressed us with a delicious meal—soybean curry, dal, and a sweet treat of phirni for dessert. Each meal seemed to outdo the last!

With bellies full and the chill setting in, we layered up in our warmest clothes and tucked ourselves into the sleeping bags for another night in the mountains. Tomorrow, the adventure continues. Good night!

That's it for now, stay tuned for the next read where we cover the summit :)

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