This Fortified Hamlet of Monpa Tribe in Western Arunachal is No Less Than a Timeless Wonder

How it'd feel to spend some delightful daydreaming moments in a living Dzong, situated at an elevation of little higher than two thousand meters. Being surrounded with coppice of white and red Rhododendron, charming cherry blossom and deep, silent woods, Thembang village looks like straight coming from chinese fairytale. It is 20 Km away from Dirang valley in Arunachal Pradesh. As our vehicle started driving uphill, we left Dirang valley dotted with colorful orange and apple orchards at bottom. The cheerful Dirang river snaked along the way for a while and then it disappeared from our sight mysteriously. After a fifty minutes uphill drive, the eerie silence of mountain was occasionally interrupted with buzzing of crickets and chirping birds.

When we were about to reach Thembang, we stumbled upon a vibrant monastery on the way. I couldn't spot any monk, local or tourist there. Rows of fluttering prayer flags stretched out from centre to different directions and looked like a colorful umbrella overhead.

Our vehicle stopped at the base and we climbed up the narrow, uneven road upto the northern entrance gate of dzong. From outside it exactly looked like a fort. This dzong was built in traditional Monpa constructional style that includes composite stone masonry and wood architecture. Stone walls with prayers engraved on them, traditional wood carvings, paintings, manuscripts and graphitti along the houses made their strong presence all over the village. It is believed that Thambang Dzong was constructed before 1100 CE. Due to the richness of heritage structure, it is now declared as a UNESCO heritage site.

There are forty two households in the village and population around two fifty. This dzong was inhabited by Monpa tribe for many generations. They are ethnic group known for their distinct cultural practices, craftsmanship and traditional attire. As we ventured further into the heart of the village, small stone huts with asbestos and thatch roofs were scattered all across. A few houses had small shops attached to their front yard, selling biscuits, chocolates, tea and other grocery items. Local monpa people led a slow paced life, going about their daily chores with an unhurried rhythm.

I met two lovely ladies sitting at their shop. Their curious gaze met with mine and swiftly transformed into shy yet warm smile. I took the opportunity to click them in their spontaneous demeanor. From the next house an elderly lady came out with little baby tucked in her back. Though initially she was hesitant for photograph, but slowly I convinced her to pose for me. She kindly granted my wish.

As I approached towards the southern zone of the village, a handsome man in her sixties or seventies with a cowboy hat confidently approached us. We all were excited to capture the moments with him, thrilled by how radiant and revitalized he looked even at this age.

Few demanded to take their photo only with him. We girl gang literally hijacked him and took group photos. With broken hindi he informed us that that he holds a recognised and honorable position in the village as he served in Indian army for many years.

On the southernmost edge of the village there is one more stone gate, used for emergency exit purpose. On the other side of the gate there is a school and huge playground. The day I visited, classes were not on and kids were playing. The little boys seemed least concerned and continued their game. But as I approached three little school girls, they interacted in friendly manner and spent a fun time with us.

The Thembang monastery was perched on lofty vantage on the eastern side of village. Locals suggested us to visit the monastery before leaving. It was a steep climb through narrow dirt trail. We walked through small colonies of monpa houses, admiring their unperturbed lifestyle. The cattles were grazing near the farm, radiating the twinkling sound of metal bells tied around their necks.

A lady was washing clothes sitting by a narrow channel of water. We passed by a few small cabbage and cauliflower fields in the backyard of the houses. A group of boys aged in between ten to fourteen felt quite overwhelmed by seeing us and couldn't figure out how to respond. They were sitting on the foyer of house and chatting. I sensed a mix of resistance and eagerness in their body language. A little girl from a hanging wooden balcony was curiously noticing us from upstair. When I tried to click a picture, she laughed and ran inside.

We continued to climb up. At a point the dirt road ended and wide stairs led the path to the entrance of monastery. It was getting tiresome. I stopped for a while and looked below. From that place the whole valley unfolded beneath like a living canvas. An unbroken horizon stretched endlessly.

I again resumed my hike. A beautiful white stupa at the entrance and lined up giant white prayer flags offered a sense of elevation. The air was crisp. The monastery was already closed when we reached there. I was tired after the hike, I sat under shade of a huge tree and absorbed the serenity, silence and peace floating in the air.

Finally it was time to say goodbye. We climbed all the way down. On my way back, the picturesque village wandered through my memory. Each path, corner, the cute little houses, the lovely people, scuttling kids everything etched in my mind. Few hours spent in Thembang village, cherishing the stone wall architecture, the hypnotizing prayer chanting, bells and drums from faraway monastery felt like no less than living in a Tibetan folk tale.