Udupi is one of the most popular and revered pilgrimage destinations for Krishna devotees, inspiring Krishna consciousness in all who visit. Located in the heart of Mangalore, Udupi is also well-known for its name, as many hotels in the area are famous for their vegetarian cuisine. During the Mahabharata, the kings of Dakshina Kannada provided food for the warriors fighting in Kurukshetra. However, more than these historical tales, the Krishna temple and math are the primary attractions. The temple is particularly noted for its inclusivity, welcoming individuals of all castes and creeds and allowing everyone to enter its premises.
According to the mythological history of the Udupi Sri Krishna temple, only individuals from the Brahmin, Kshatriya, and Vaishya castes were allowed to enter the temple, while Shudras were not even permitted to look at the idol of the Lord. An ardent devotee of Sri Krishna named Kanakanna Dasa would sing praises to the Lord and eagerly wait for a chance to have darshan at the temple. However, due to his lower caste, the temple priests consistently denied him access.
One day, determined to see Sri Krishna, Kanakanna Dasa began singing Krishna songs behind the temple. As he sang, the idol miraculously turned around, cracking the wall, and granted him darshan. The priests and onlookers were astonished, as the deity himself had bestowed this privilege upon Kanakanna, declaring him his dearest devotee.
Following this event, a special entry called "Kanakanna Kindi," meaning "Kanakanna's Window," was established, allowing devotees to witness Sri Krishna. This temple is unique in that it is the only one where Lord Krishna gives darshan to his devotees facing south, which is uncommon in other temples. As a result, the Udupi Sri Krishna temple is renowned for its diversity, historical significance, and unity.
I learned about this story through my Vedic classes but had never visited the temple until this May. One random summer evening, I decided to visit the temple to focus on my Sadhana of the Bhagavad Gita. It was a Friday evening, and I took public transportation from the Mangalore KSRTC bus stand. The ticket cost 70 rupees, and it took me about an hour and a half to reach the Udupi bus stand. The Krishna temple was very close to the bus stop, so I walked there.
Since it had rained a bit, the lanes of that busy street were wet, but the fragrance of Krishna's presence in the cows, small streets, fruits, flowers, and various vendors transported me to a vintage era.
The first thing I noticed upon arriving at the temple complex was the huge chariot standing proudly beside the temple. One of the first elements I saw was the Kanakanna Kindi. There were several pandits chanting, along with a few artists singing praises to Lord Krishna. People generally visit the Kanakanna Kindi before going to the main temple, so I followed the crowd of devotees, finding it quite accessible.
I peacefully removed my footwear, offered my prayers, and took a moment to reflect on where Krishna had appeared in front of his ardent devotees. I then moved a bit further to check out the free Darshan queue. Since it was a relatively quiet day with no overwhelming rush, I decided to join the free Darshan line.
In the evening, as the temple opened at 4 PM, the queue was steadily moving forward. Within half an hour, I had nearly reached the main sanctum sanctorum after traversing the narrow paths of the temple. Alongside a large lake, I saw many children happily playing while studying Vedic texts, accompanied by pandits who were taking dips in the water before commencing their rituals.
Once I stepped inside, I was captivated by the art and architecture that showcased the work of old Kannada artists. The sculptures were simply amazing because of their intricate carvings. After a few more minutes, I saw the little idols of Sri Krishna, completely covered and adorned with jewels, garlands, flowers, fruits, and many ornaments that suited one of his thousand names, Alankarapriya. The Darshan was peaceful, with no pushing or shoving. I had a full minute to admire him happily before moving forward to receive my prasaada.
After completing my Darshan, I joined a few elders who were listening to a pandit reciting Krishna Paarayana, explaining the various Leelas of Krishna. I stayed there for half an hour before stepping out of the temple.
Even in those exit paths, I could feel the architecture communicating with the devotees about Krishna and his history. Once I emerged completely, I noticed a path leading to Annapurna Hall, where they serve food. However, since it wasn't time for dinner, I decided to skip it and began exploring the stalls inside the main temple complex. I bought a few photo stands of Udupi Sri Krishna and some Laddu prasada for my friends and family. All the vendors were vibrant and colorful, and you could find everything related to pooja rituals.
The exterior paths of Udupi were vast and inviting. I stumbled upon a huge auditorium where a group of kids was singing hymns from the Yajur Veda. I paused to listen, as Vedic hymns always captured my attention. Afterwards, I continued to an extravagant hall where a prominent religious leader was speaking. I entered, sat down, and listened to his insights on the Bhagavad Gita for a while. Due to my hair bun and attire, one of the pandits mistook me for a member of their community. Despite the misunderstanding, we engaged in a meaningful conversation about Krishna and the spiritual paths related to Krishna's consciousness.
After I finished exploring the exteriors of the main temple, I began to visit the surrounding temples. I explored the Shiva temple, Ayyappa mandir, Narayana temple, Ganesha mandir, Subramanya Swamy temple, and many other smaller temples. I spent a lot of time appreciating their unique vintage aesthetics, which inspired my spiritual growth and encouraged me to embrace simplicity.
After visiting several temples, I decided to explore the exteriors of the temple complex, where the temple lanes are lined with various stalls, vendors, restaurants, and hotels. Among them, Mitra Samaj stands out as one of the most popular dining spots near Udupi Sri Krishna Matha. Almost every devotee, visitor, or traveller to Udupi makes a point to stop by for its authentic Mangalorean cuisine.
I visited in the evening and enjoyed a delicious plate of snacks along with a glass of filter coffee. I found a cosy little table where I spent a pleasant time, soaking in the atmosphere of the evening. Afterwards, I walked through the entire temple premises, exploring the lanes filled with various shops and stores.
The best part of my visit was when I was about to leave the temple and witnessed a beautiful Aarti ritual during the evening Sandhya Aarti at 6 PM. I stayed at the Kanakanna Kindi until 6:30 PM, fully appreciating the hymns, praises, songs, drums, trumpets, and all the devotional music. I could see Kanakanna's statue across from me, and that was the last place I visited before leaving the temple grounds. It was a one-of-a-kind experience that taught me that status, privilege, and money don't matter when it comes to pure devotion. In the end, God only sees the sincerity of devotion, not materialistic attainments.
Afterwards, I walked to the bus stop and caught a private bus back to Mangalore at Car Street in Udupi. By the time I reached home, it was 9:30 PM. That whole evening in Udupi left me feeling calm and peaceful. If you are on a soul-searching spiritual journey, I highly recommend visiting this place.