There’s a peculiar pull the Himalayas have on me—a deep sense of belongingness that the plains fail to offer. Every visit feels like reconnecting with an old friend, and this time, it was the Northeast side of India that called to me. On a trusted Royal Enfield Himalayan, I embarked on a journey that would gift me experiences I’d cherish forever.
This time, my journey took me to Arunachal Pradesh, often referred to as the "Land of the Dawn-Lit Mountains." Nestled in the northeastern corner of India, it’s a state that seems to exist in a timeless embrace of nature and culture. Home to over 25 tribes, Arunachal is as much about its warm-hearted people as it is about its snow-capped peaks, dense forests, and crystal-clear rivers. The state is a paradise for adventurers and seekers alike, with its monasteries, vibrant festivals, and roads that test both your spirit and your skills.
The Journey Begins
The Himalayan range, with its towering peaks and serene valleys, greeted me once again. There’s a unique kind of peace in the mountains—a silence that speaks louder than words and a sense of belonging that I never seem to find in the plains.
Riding alongside a tranquil water stream flowing into the Kameng River, I caught a sunset so breathtaking it felt like nature had painted it just for me. Moments like these remind me why I choose the mountains time and again.
Every turn of the road here brings something new—perhaps a hidden waterfall, a distant monastery perched precariously on a hill, or a meadow where cattle graze under a sky that seems to stretch forever. Arunachal Pradesh feels like a world untouched, where the simplicity of life meets the grandeur of the Himalayas. It’s not just a destination—it’s a feeling, a connection to something far greater than oneself.
I had planned to reach Dirang, but as the Northeast skies darkened early around 4:30 PM, I found myself stopping at a quaint little village called Tippi near the Assam-Arunachal border. This unplanned halt gave me a chance to experience village life—a peaceful interlude before heading deeper into the mountains.
I discovered a beautiful, peaceful spot by the river and decided to set up my tent there. The sound of the flowing water was so calming, and the view of the mountains in the distance made it feel like I was in a postcard. As I unpacked, I noticed a group of adorable little puppies playing nearby. They were so full of energy, running around and wagging their tiny tails, instantly lifting my mood.
For dinner, I had packed some daal and rice in Tejpur, but because of the cold, it had turned rock-solid by the time I was ready to eat. Undeterred, I lit a small stove, warmed the food, and enjoyed my meal sitting by the river under the starry sky. The cold breeze made every bite feel extra comforting. Afterward, I washed my utensils in the icy-cold river water, which sent shivers up my spine but added to the adventure of the moment.
The wind picked up as the night went on, becoming super chilly and intense. The puppies, still playful and curious, stayed close to me as I prepared for bed. I couldn’t leave them outside in such freezing weather, so I brought them into the tent with me. They snuggled up beside me, their tiny bodies radiating warmth. It felt like we were a little family, finding comfort in each other on this cold, windy night.
That night, I fell asleep listening to the gentle sound of the river, the wind brushing against the tent, and the soft breathing of the puppies by my side. It’s moments like these that make me feel truly alive and connected to the world around me.
Journey Through Hidden Gems and Scenic Wonders
The journey from Tippi to Dirang is a traveler's dream, filled with breathtaking views and serene landscapes. Starting from Tippi, a small town known for its Orchidarium, you can take a moment to admire the vibrant collection of orchids and feel closer to nature. As you move forward, the road takes you through lush green forests, misty hills, and flowing rivers.
On the way, make a stop at Sessa Orchid Sanctuary, a hidden gem offering a peaceful escape with stunning views of the valley. The drive is dotted with small villages, where you can interact with the locals and learn about their unique culture and traditions.
I was riding through the countryside when hunger struck, so I stopped near a small village and looked around for food. There was a tiny tea stall by the roadside, run by a kind couple in their 40s. They didn’t usually serve food, but when I asked a few questions about where I could eat, they smiled warmly and offered to prepare a simple meal for me.
The aroma of fresh spices and wood fire made the moment even more magical.
While the food was being cooked, I sat on a wooden stool next to their young child by the fireplace. The child was curious about my bike and my journey.
The kid was refusing to eat, and his mom looked very worried. I sat down with him, talked to him, and made him feel comfortable.
Slowly, he started eating while sitting next to me. Seeing the smile of relief on his mom’s face and the kid finally enjoying his meal made my day. Moments like these remind me that a little kindness can make a big difference, even when you're traveling.
Once the meal was ready, they served me a plate filled with love, and every bite tasted better than any restaurant food I’d ever had. It wasn’t just the food—it was their hospitality and warmth that made it special. I thanked them with all my heart, took a final look at the glowing fireplace, and left with a full stomach and an even fuller heart.
As you approach Dirang, the scenery transforms into terraced fields and majestic mountains. Don’t miss Dirang Dzong, an ancient fort, and the soothing Dirang Hot Water Spring. This journey is not just a ride but a beautiful experience of nature and culture.
As the sun began to set, I wandered around the peaceful local monasteries, taking in the calm atmosphere.
I set up my tent at a hilltop campsite run by two kind brothers. They offered me a spot for a small fee, and I couldn't have asked for a better view. That night, I shared a warm meal by the campfire, and the sky above was filled with countless stars, making it feel like the world had slowed down just for me.
Discovering Dirang
It was a peaceful day, exploring the beautiful landscapes of Dirang and the serene Sangti Valley, I immersed myself in the peaceful surroundings. From visiting ancient religious sites to wandering through the quiet valleys, each place offered a sense of calm and connection with nature.
I came across a place called Maratha Chowk. It was a beautiful spot, and what caught my attention was the majestic statue of Shivaji Maharaj, standing proudly on the main road. The sight was truly inspiring, especially because it was surrounded by the peaceful and scenic beauty of the hills.
The statue of Shivaji Maharaj, a symbol of strength and leadership, added a unique touch to this serene place. It was an unforgettable experience to stand there, feeling connected to both history and nature. This little gem of a location made my trip even more special, reminding me how much history can blend seamlessly with the beauty of nature.
Some warned me about the weather at Sela Pass, making me think twice, but the beauty of the mountains kept calling me forward.
Conquering Sela Pass
Crossing the mighty Sela Pass at an altitude of 13,700 feet was an experience that left me both thrilled and humbled.
For those who haven't been, Sela Pass is a gateway to Tawang, a region known for its ancient monasteries, pristine lakes, and mesmerizing landscapes. The journey through Sela Pass is not just about reaching a destination; it’s about experiencing the raw beauty and challenges of the Himalayas.
As I reached the top, the temperature plunged to a chilling -3°C, and the frozen lake at the pass was a breathtaking sight, almost like something from a dream. The mountains around me were covered in snow, creating a serene yet awe-inspiring landscape. Despite the cold, I didn’t get to witness the snowfall I had hoped for, but the beauty of the surroundings made up for it.
Entry to Sela Gate is like stepping into a magical world. The gate marks the start of the route to Tawang. After that you’ll find the serene Sela Lake, also known as Paradise Lake, reflecting the sky like a giant mirror.
The roads are narrow and winding, with sharp turns and tricky sections that make riding a challenge. Along the way, you'll encounter huge trucks that seem to take up all the available space, leaving little room to pass through. The roads are rough and bumpy, adding to the thrill of the ride.
I was riding through a stunning pine forest that stretched endlessly along the road. The fresh, crisp air carried the soothing scent of pine, and the soft rustling of the trees added a peaceful melody to the ride. Beside me, a crystal-clear river flowed gracefully, its gentle ripples sparkling in the sunlight.
To make it even more enchanting, patches of snow lay scattered on the ground, shimmering like white jewels against the dark green forest. It felt like stepping into a picture-perfect winter postcard.
The amount of snow around kept increasing, as I was moving close to Tawang.
After navigating the pass and tricky roads, I finally made my way down to the picturesque town of Tawang. Arriving by 4 PM, I began looking for a place to set up camp. However, the locals advised against it due to the extreme cold at night, with temperatures dropping to -6°C to -10°C. Sometimes, it’s best to listen to the wisdom of those who know the area well.
So I booked a government cottage which was budget friendly, costing me only INR 600 for a night.
The day ended with an exciting yet reflective experience as I applied for a permit to visit Bum La. This border area is not just a strategic point, but also a place rich in stories of peace, struggle, and the connection between India and China. Standing on the edge of the pass, you can almost feel the weight of history in the air.
Exploring Tawang
Tawang, nestled in the northeastern corner of India, welcomed me with its rich culture and deep history. As soon as I arrived, I was enchanted by the peaceful atmosphere and stunning landscapes. My first stop was the majestic Tawang Monastery, Asia’s second-largest monastery. Standing tall, it offered breathtaking panoramic views of the town, surrounded by the towering Himalayan mountains. The monastery's architecture was beautiful, and the calmness of the place made me feel at peace.
Next, I visited the War Memorial, a place that left me truly emotional. As I stood there, I read about the brave soldiers who sacrificed their lives during the 1962 Indo-China war. Their courage and devotion to protecting the country touched my heart deeply.
Tawang is not just a place; it’s a journey into the past and a connection with the present. The people, the culture, and the stories left an indelible mark on my heart. If you ever get the chance to visit, Tawang will offer you much more than just scenic beauty—it’s an experience that will stay with you forever.
The Road to Bum La and Beyond
I started my day early, as the weather around Bum La can change unpredictably. As I rode through breathtaking landscapes, I passed over more than 15 frozen lakes, each one glistening under the sun. Finally, I reached Bum La at an altitude of 15,200 ft.
The place, perched on the India-China border, was silent and untouched, with rugged terrain and an air of peaceful solitude that made me feel small in the vastness of nature.
At the border, I had an unexpected encounter—a Chinese soldier stood just 15-20 feet away, capturing photographs. The moment felt surreal, as if the boundary between us was not just physical but also a reminder of our shared humanity, fleeting and fragile. It was a humbling experience, one that made me reflect on the meaning of borders and the people who live alongside them.
I took an incredible photo standing next to a frozen waterfall, using a tripod and a remote camera. It was such a wild experience! The cold air hit my face, and the waterfall, frozen solid, looked like something out of a fairytale. I couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of it all.
I’m sure people in their warm cars, with heaters blasting, must have thought I was crazy standing out there in the freezing cold. But there was something so peaceful and awe-inspiring about being surrounded by ice and snow, listening to the silence of nature. The frozen waterfall in front of me, with the water still flowing beneath the ice, created a beautiful contrast between stillness and movement.
It’s one of those rare moments where you just have to step out of your comfort zone to appreciate the raw beauty of the world.
When I was planning my trip to Arunachal Pradesh, I came across a fascinating place during my research—a Gurudwara located right in the middle of Bum La Pass and Madhuri Lake.
The Gurudwara stood out to me because it wasn’t just any ordinary place of worship—it was surrounded by legends and stories that I couldn’t wait to uncover.
When I finally reached the base of the Gurudwara, I was struck by its unique location. It’s nestled right in the middle of towering mountains, and it felt as if the mountain itself had made space to protect and embrace this sacred site. The path leading up to the Gurudwara was steep, but it was surrounded by breathtaking views of the snow-capped peaks. As I started my climb, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of calm and curiosity.
The climb took me about 50 minutes, and although it was tiring, every step was worth it. When I reached the top, the sight of the Gurudwara was absolutely mesmerizing.
The place felt sacred and timeless, as if it held stories of generations past. I spent 30 to 40 minutes there, soaking in the tranquility. I even sat down to meditate for a while, letting the silence and beauty of the mountains fill me with a sense of gratitude and peace.
After my time at the Gurudwara, I made my way back to the base. That’s when I had another wonderful experience. The Indian Army has a langar there, where they serve food to visitors as part of their devotion and tradition. The warmth and kindness of the soldiers touched my heart. Sitting there, eating the simple yet delicious meal, I felt incredibly blessed. It was as if the place not only fed my body but also my soul.
If you ever visit Arunachal Pradesh, I highly recommend adding this to your itinerary. It’s not just a destination; it’s a memory that will stay with you forever.
I visited the beautiful Sungester Lake, also known as Madhuri Lake. The lake is surrounded by tall snow-capped mountains, making it feel like a scene straight out of a dream. When I reached there, it was almost 60% frozen, creating a magical sight with icy reflections.
There is a small army canteen by the lake, where I stopped for a quick tea break. The warm cup of tea was perfect in the chilly weather. I had the chance to chat with a few Indian soldiers stationed there, who were from Maharashtra. It was heartwarming to meet them so far from home, and they were equally excited to meet someone who had traveled all the way on a motorcycle. They shared stories about their life in the mountains and how much they miss their families and home in harsh conditions.
The lake itself has an interesting history—it was formed after an earthquake in the area, and its beauty has even earned it a place in Bollywood, being featured in the movie Koyla. The surrounding area is peaceful and untouched, with prayer flags fluttering in the wind, adding a spiritual vibe to the whole experience.
But I wasn’t done yet. I decided to take a detour to Zemithang, a quiet village that holds significant historical value. The 40 km ride was along deserted mountain roads, where I felt like I was traveling back in time. Surrounded by untouched nature and ancient stories, Zemithang left me with a deep sense of awe and appreciation for the rich history and beauty of this remote corner of the world.
Whispers of Zemithang: A Quiet Day in the Shadows of History
Zemithang is close to the border with China. This little town holds a significant place in history, as it was one of the areas where the Chinese forces crossed into India during the 1962 war. Walking through the narrow lanes, you can almost feel the weight of history, with stories of bravery and struggle whispered by the wind.
One of the most unforgettable moments while riding towards Zemithang, as I was navigating the winding mountain roads, I stumbled upon a site that left me speechless. Perched on the edge of the mountain, I saw old bunkers, their weathered walls whispering tales of history.
Curious, I stopped to explore and happened to meet a few soldiers patrolling the area. After a friendly conversation, they shared an incredible story with me. These bunkers were built during the Indo-China war of 1962, a time of intense conflict. They were constructed as a line of defense to protect our borders from the Chinese army. Even today, these bunkers stand as a reminder of the sacrifices made during that time.
What struck me the most was the bravery of our soldiers who still serve in this remote, challenging terrain. I had the rare opportunity to step inside one of the bunkers, and it was both frightening and awe-inspiring. Imagine standing in a place where history was made, where brave souls once fought to protect our country. I had goosebumps all over my body.
If you ever get a chance to cross this area, take a moment to reflect on the sacrifices made here. Pause, look around, and if you meet any soldiers, don’t hesitate to thank them. They put their lives on the line to ensure our safety and freedom. It's a humbling experience, and it reminded me of how much we owe to these unsung heroes.
When I arrived, I was surprised to find that there weren’t any hotels to stay in. The only option I had was to camp outside the PWD guest house because it was at a good height and offered beautiful views. The cold night air made everything feel even more isolated. I had only two bananas left with me, and I knew I would need more to survive the night. I asked a kind local if he could suggest some place for food, and though I don't usually eat eggs, he offered me an omelette. In that moment, I was grateful for whatever I could get. I also had a small cheese cubes with me, so I grated them over the omelette to make it more filling.
With my belly finally full, I returned to my tent. The stars were clearer than ever in the cold, crisp night. The stillness of the town and the vastness of the mountains around me felt surreal, like I had stepped into a different world. Despite the challenges, I couldn’t help but feel connected to the place—its history, its people, and the beautiful simplicity of life there.
Finding Peace at TLD Monastery
I started my journey a bit late in the morning. The cold wind was harsh, biting through my layers, making it tough to step out of the comfort of my sleeping bag. My body, still aching from the previous day’s ride, begged for rest, but the road was calling, and the thrill of exploration kept me going.
There are two ways to reach Dirang. The first route retraced the same path I had taken earlier. But riding the same roads again? That’s not my style.
I’m always drawn to the unknown, so I decided to take a new, adventurous route: Zemithang – Dung – Shakti – Gipsu – Lumla – Tawang – Sela Pass – Dirang.
The stretch between Zemithang and Shakti was especially magical.
Hardly 10-15 vehicles passed me along the way, leaving me alone with the quiet wilderness. The road snaked through serene valleys, where nature seemed untouched by time. Villages appeared like whispers, their simplicity speaking volumes. The occasional prayer flags fluttering in the wind reminded me of the deep spirituality of this land.
While riding through the rugged terrain of Dung, I came across an Indian Army base bustling with energy. Hundreds of soldiers were fully immersed in their daily routines – from intense drills and workouts to cleaning and maintaining their base. It was both inspiring and humbling to witness their dedication up close, especially in such a remote and challenging area.
As I continued my journey, I suddenly heard the distant sound of water crashing from a great height. The sound was so captivating that I couldn’t ignore it. My curiosity took over, and I decided to find the source of this mysterious sound. I parked my motorcycle by the roadside and began walking toward the unknown. The trail was tricky, with slippery rocks and uneven paths, but the thrill of discovery kept me going.
After a 15-minute hike, I found myself standing at the foot of a breathtaking waterfall. It was majestic, powerful, and alive with energy. The water cascaded from such a height that it created a misty spray all around, soaking me in seconds. The roar of the waterfall echoed through the valley, making me feel small yet deeply connected to nature’s raw power.
Although I couldn’t get close to where the water fell due to the sheer force of the flow, the experience was magical. Standing there alone, surrounded by the beauty of the wild.
This hidden gem was a reminder of why I love exploring the unknown. Dung may be a small, remote area, but it holds surprises that can leave you awestruck if you’re willing to wander off the beaten path.
Crossing Sela Pass once again was an unforgettable adventure. The weather was wild—thick fog blanketed the entire pass, and I could barely see anything beyond 5 to 10 meters. The crosswinds were relentless, pushing against me with icy force, and the biting cold seeped through every layer I was wearing. The roads were slippery, making every turn a cautious battle to stay balanced.
By the time I reached Dirang, the day had been long and tiring. I found refuge at the TLD Monastery, where a kind monk welcomed me and allowed me to pitch my tent on their serene premises. That night, under a canopy of stars, the peaceful hum of the monastery lulled me to sleep.
The Emotional Farewell
The next morning, I woke early to join the monks for their morning prayers. The chants echoed through the monastery, carrying a deep sense of tranquility and grounding. For a moment, I felt at one with the world, reminded of life’s simple joys—like the warmth of a smile or the sound of the wind rustling through trees.
From Dirang, I rode toward Mandala Top, a series of 108 buddhist stupa that have been built in a circle, on the top of mountain. Its panoramic views stretched endlessly, revealing layers of hills, clouds, and distant snow-capped peaks. The rain added a ghostly charm, wrapping the landscape in mist and making the ride even more difficult.
By evening, I reached Bhairabkunda, where the landscape and weather shifted dramatically. From the freezing cold of the higher altitudes, I was greeted by a balmy 30°C—a welcome change. This place, where Bhutan, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh meet, was alive with its unique blend of cultures and natural beauty.
Every turn on this journey brought something new—a breathtaking view, an unexpected challenge, or a quiet moment of reflection. The road, as always, was my greatest teacher, showing me the beauty of the world and the resilience within myself.
As much as I wanted to keep exploring, it was time to head back. My heart was heavy, yet it brimmed with gratitude for the memories I had collected—the kindness of strangers, the awe of nature, and the sense of freedom that only the mountains offer.
Reflections
The Northeast Himalayas are more than just a destination; they’re an experience that touches your soul. From the warmth of the locals to the rugged beauty of the terrain, every moment was a reminder of life’s raw and unfiltered beauty.
If there’s one takeaway from this journey, it’s this: the road might be uncertain, but it’s always worth taking. As I unpack my memories and prepare for the next adventure, I know the Himalayas will call me back again. Until then, I’ll carry their spirit with me—a sense of belonging, freedom, and endless wonder.
This journey was about more than just travel—it was about reconnecting with myself. The Himalayas have a way of doing that, don’t they? ❤️
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