If you are planning a trip to Georgia anytime soon, I am sure Kazbegi has already found its way into your itinerary. But, wait! You are only halfway there. Your visit to Kazbegi will take you through the picturesque Georgian Military Highway (the road that connects Georgia to Russia). That is not it. The highway also allows you to see some of the best places en route to Kazebegi through the breathtaking landscapes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Below are some of the best stopovers on the Georgian Military Highway.
Travel tips for the Georgian Military Highway
a. The Georgian Military Highway is open year-round. However, a few sections of the road are sometimes closed in winter due to avalanche risk or in spring due to landslides. Check ahead with a local or call the roads department before you travel.
b. To see all the stops listed below. I highly recommend hiring a car with a driver. GoTrip.ge is an affordable, reliable service that gives you complete flexibility. I think it is the best way to travel around Georgia.
c. The highway is a winding country road in many sections. If you suffer from motion sickness, do carry your prescribed medicines.
d. For international travelers planning to explore the beautiful regions connected by the Georgian Military Highway, securing the proper visa is crucial. Fortunately, Georgia offers an -visa system that simplifies the process of obtaining the necessary travel authorization. To learn more about how to apply for an e-visa, visit this comprehensive guide on Georgia e-visa. Having the right travel documents in advance will not only streamline your journey but also allow you to fully immerse yourself in the scenic beauty and historical significance of the Military Highway.
e. Utilizing a storage facility in Tbilisi can help you manage your luggage effectively, allowing you to enjoy your journey along the Georgian Military Highway without the hassle of carrying everything with you.
f. To ensure a smooth and worry-free trip along the Georgian Military Highway, don't forget to include travel insurance on your checklist. Having insurance can save you from unexpected costs and give you peace of mind.
g. Exploring the Georgian Military Highway requires good connectivity, whether for navigation or staying in touch. A universal sim card offers hassle-free mobile service throughout your trip. If you plan to buy a local sim, I recommend Magti for reliable coverage.
Stopovers on the Georgian Military Highway
If you travel from Tbilisi to Kazbegi, you can plan your route using the stopovers in the order below.
1. Ananuri
Travel time from Tbilsi - 1 hour
Stopover - 30 to 45 minutes
Ananuri, a medieval defensive fortress on the Georgian Military Road, is about 64 km from Tbilisi. The walled complex dates back to the 13th century when the region's leaders built two defensive castles on the bank of the Aragvi River. The main building, the silver-crowned Church of the Mother of God, was added in 1689.
Apart from the vintage vibes, one of the most interesting things to see at Ananuri is the stone carvings on the church facade. As you enter through the gates, you will see a massive stone wall dressed head to toe with the plump curls of the Georgian script. While hiking in the ruins, you will come across some beautiful carvings.
At the back of the complex, there is a stone tower that you can choose to climb. The stairs are quite unsafe, so be careful. I could reach only halfway, and the views from there were good. My driver told me that the views from the top were worth it, but I did not dare to step on the precarious stairs to the top.
Good to know: The church was closed when I visited the fortress. There are partially restored frescoes illuminated by votive candles inside.
Good to know: Near Zhinvali reservoir, 10-12 km before Ananuri, there are photo points with a heart-shaped structure, a swing that reads - "I love Georgia", etc. You can ask your driver to stop there for a few minutes. They charge about 3-5 GEL for clicking photos.
Zhinvali reservoir in itself, is a treat to stop by for a few minute.
2. Pasanauri (stopover - 45 to 60 minutes)
Travel time from Ananuri - 30 minutes
Stopover - 45 to 60 minutes
You have already traveled about 85 km from Tbilisi, and it is time for a meal break. Stop by at Pasanauri to treat yourself to khinkali. But, why Pasanauri? Well, because many people refer to Pasanauri as 'the home of khinkali'. So, yes, Pasanauri makes for the perfect stopover to have a meal.
You might find it overwhelming to choose which restaurants you should try as they all look equally welcoming. On my driver's recommendation, we visited a restaurant named Pasanauri. It was about 9:45 in the morning, and I could see the women busy preparing the dough, cleaning vegetables, etc. in the open kitchen.
I was surprised to see so many vegetarian options in Khinkali on the menu. I had heard only about mushrooms from most people. But, they also had potato, cottage cheese, and cheese khinkali, each for 1-1.5 GEL. You need to order a minimum of 6 pieces of one kind. So, I could order 6 pieces of mushroom in one order. On my request, the server sweetly took the order for 3-3 of two stuffings in a single portion. I tried mushroom, potato, and cheese khinkali.
The mushroom khinkali was juicy and tasty. The potato khinkali was bland but tasted great with Adjika (traditional Georgian spice), and the cheese khinkali, well, depends on your love for trying cheese in different parts of the world.
Good to know: The khinkali is primarily a steamed stuffed dumpling. So, you might find it a little bland depending on your food habits. Do request the server to get you some Adjika on the side.
Good to know: The service is a little slow, but you would not have any complaints if you chose the outdoor seating.
3. Gudauri
Travel time from Pasanauri - 1 hour
Stopover - I leave that to you
Welcome to the favorite part of my road trip to Kazbegi. Gudauri is primarily a winter destination, specifically popular for skiing. On the other hand, Kazbegi is a popular summer escape. Assuming you are taking this road trip to Kazbegi in the summer, you would most likely not plan for an overnight stay at Gudauri. So, what else could you do there?
Well, board a cable car from Gudauri to Kobi. Trust me, for a mere ticket price of 35 GEL, you are in for the ride of your life. Many people even claim that this is the single most memorable transportation experience in the entire Georgia.
The Kobi Gudauri cable car
The cable car route (9.5 km) forms an inverted V shape, traveling up, and then back down between two valleys. At its highest point, the cable car travels through the Jvari Pass, which reaches 2,900 meters above sea level. This is where I could touch the snow even in a summer month.
The cable car is a sequence of four separate but consecutive gondolas. The two bottom stations in New Gudauri and Kobi (forming the tip of "V") are accessible by road. So, you can ask your driver to drop you at the bottom station in Gudauri and meet you at the bottom station in Kobi. The other two middle stations are located in the high mountains allowing you to spend time between the stations at your convenience.
The ride was incredibly mesmerizing, and gave me goosebumps, especially when my eyes stared at the same level as Mount Kazbek, Georgia's third-highest peak at 5,054 meters above sea level. People say it is not easy to see Mount Kazbek as it remains surrounded by clouds. I could witness the beauty, thanks to the cable car ride.
Opening days: All days
Timings: 10 am to 5 pm
Good to know: The Kobi Gudauri cable car is a lift for skiers and snowboarders but primarily acts as a backup form of transportation when the Jvari Pass is closed during heavy snowfall.
Good to know: The cable cars go under maintenance twice or thrice every year. You can check the MTA Gudauri Facebook page for announcements.
Good to know: The distance between the stations is hardly a few meters, making walking convenient.
Good to know: Even if you commute only one way, you pay the return fare i.e. 35 GEL
Good to know: Considering how enjoyable the cable car ride was, I spent 2.5 hours between Gudauri and Kobi. Carry food and water accordingly.
Good to know: Do not let the weather at the first station deceive you. At the highest point, the wind (cold) speed can get a little unbearable. I regretted not carrying my ear bags.
4. Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)
Travel time from Kobi - 30 minutes
Stopover - at least for a night
More than 5 hours will already have flown by by the time you reach Kazbegi. So, I would recommend going for other stopovers while returning to Tbilisi. You could stay for a night or two in Kazbegi, and explore the townlet. I wonder why people take only a day trip to the breathtaking Kazbegi. A minimum of 2-3 days should be kept aside to visit Gergeti Church, Truso Valley (definitely a highlight), St. Elia's monastery, Gveleti waterfalls, Abano Monastery, etc.
Good to know: If you're looking for a place to stay in Kazbegi, Capra Hotel Kazbegi stands out for its unbeatable views and prime location.
5. Dariali Monastery and Terek Valley - one of the best stops on Georgian Militrary Highway
Travel time from Kazbegi - 20 minutes
Travel time from Kobi - 45 minutes
You can choose this stopover after Gudauri/ Kobi (if you are not tired) or while returning to Tbilisi, since Dariali Gorge is past Kazbegi.
As you drive to Kazbegi, the road narrows after Kazbegi. It created an illusion that you're clinging to the side of the cliff. As you approach the village of Tsdo, you pass through an unlit tunnel, which feels as raw as the nature surrounding it. As you cross the tunnel passage, you will emerge in breathtaking scenery.
The lookout point just after Tsdo offers amazing views over the rocky cleft that runs to the Russian border.
Dariali Monastery itself is interesting for a stroll. The monasteries in Georgia were unlike what I visit often. Firstly, Georgia is an Orthodox Christian, and thus the architecture is unique. Secondly, I can't admire the fresco paintings in churches and monasteries enough.
Good to know: You can have a meal at Cafe Monastery, a cute restaurant attached to the monastery. The food is delicious. You must try pizza and hot chocolate. They also have wine prepared by the monks on the menu. The prices were reasonable too. My driver later informed me that cafes at monasteries like these aim to provide high quality at relatively lower prices to the customer since their main motive is not to earn profits.
You can also see the Russia-Georgia border from the cafe's glass windows.
Good to know: The road leading to Dariali Monastery is usually filled with cars, as the border is right there, and many people drive to and cross the borders.
6. Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument
Travel time from Gudauri - 10 minutes
From Kazbegi - 40 minutes
From Dariali - 60 minutes
If you take the Kobi Gudauri cable car, you can stop to see the Russia Georgia monument while returning to Tbilisi. If it is otherwise, you can take the next stopover here after Guadauri.
I was fascinated by the monument the moment I stepped out of the car. Designed by Giorgi, the famous Georgian architect, it is, undoubtedly, the most iconic landmark on the Georgian Military Highway. It was built in 1983 to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk between Russia and Georgia, and the friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia.
The monument consists of a large round stone and concrete structure with 7 huge columns symbolizing the seven centuries of friendship between the Georgian and Russian people. This monument is divided into two parts - the left side features figures from Georgian history and mythology, the right side features Russian characters, and the center features a mother holding her child. The monument offers striking views of the Caucasus and the Devil's Valley. It gives Truso Valley a tough competition.
Good to know: The mosaics depict Georgian and Russian heroes, farmers, fairy tales, and Communist symbols.
Good to know: As you look down from the monument, you can see a tempting (for the swimmers) small pool-like pond. That is a water reservoir cut from the valley floor.
Other stops that you can choose to make on Georgian Military Highway
This is how I planned my Georgian Military Highway itinerary: Tbilisi→Ananuri→Pasanauri→Gudauri→Kazbegi (stayover)→Dariali Gorge→Russia Georgia Friendship Monument→Tbilisi
Alternative to above: Tbilisi→Ananuri→Pasanauri→Gudauri→Russia Georgia Friendship Monument→Dariali Gorge→Kazbegi (stayover)→Tbilisi
If you want to make more stopovers, then you can follow this (skip what does not interest you):
Tbilisi→Zhinvali Reservoir→Ananuri→Pasanauri→Vintage Car Graveyard→Travertine Mineral Springs→Gudauri→Russia Georgia Friendship Monument→Jvari Pass→Sno Giant Stone Heads→Dariali Gorge→Kazbegi (stayover)→Tbilisi
Georgian Military Highway FAQ
How long is the drive on Georgian Military Highway from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?
If you were to drive directly from Tbilisi to Kazbegi, the journey would take around 3-3.5 hours. If you make some (or all) stopovers mentioned in this post, you will need significantly more hours to do justice to the epic highway.
I left from Tbilisi at 6:45 in the morning and followed the trail - Tbilisi→Ananuri→Pasanauri→Gudauri (cable car ride)→Kazbegi. I could reach Kazbegi only at 2 pm. So, you could consider that a half-day trip (or full if you want to include more stopovers).
When planning your departure time, note that Ananuri Fortress opens at 9 am. I was fine not seeing the church from inside as I wanted to enjoy the early morning drive.
Do you need a 4×4 to drive to Kazbegi?
You do not need a 4×4 to drive on the Military Highway. However, there might be rough patches or unexpected road works, so a regular SUV should be okay.
Is the Georgian Military Highway safe to drive?
Firstly, you need an IDP (international driving permit) in Georgia. So, ensure you apply for one well in advance. Secondly, you could avoid self-driving on the military highway. The road is quite mountainous, and the hairpin bends can make the drive even more tricky. Sometimes, there can also be heavy traffic from freight lorries. For example, when I visited Dariali, an entire lane was blocked by parked trucks waiting to cross the border. I would not have been confident enough to drive through that while my driver did that so smoothly.
Moreover, there is always a risk of roadblocks in winter and landslides during summer. So, I recommend riding with a local driver who is well-versed in the road conditions.
That is all I had to share about the epic Georgian Military Highway road trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi. Just make sure you dedicate enough time making the most of the drive, I can bet you will return with some of the fondest memories.
I hope this post helped you. I have tried to make it as comprehensive as possible. Do you have any questions about the Georgian Military Highway? Please leave a comment below and I'll try my best to help out.
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