Making it to Losar was a great feeling altogether. Right before the entrance, there was a huge arch painted forest green with traditional floral patterns that read "Welcome to Spiti Valley" that made us all thank the God we never had and cheer in excitement. Losar was a small village with bright blue mountains, red trees, green meadows and brightly painted yellow houses. It was the perfect picture that looked like something Sargent would have painted. We passed several restaurants and wandered into the village that was down below looking for more beauty and some tea. Sadly, the homestay there did not have a steward so we headed back on to the commercial area for refreshments. It was 2PM and we had roughly 60kms ahead of us. The roads did not look much better so far but we had big expectations. We ordered some noodles and tea while I borrowed a phone from the shop owner. There was full cell reception in the area for BSNL(A government run telecommunications company) which you wouldn't opt for in cities where we had Vodafone, Airtel etc. But Spiti Valley only had BSNL and nothing else so borrowing phones from locality was the only option. We spoke to our families one by one as we finished our lunch and decided to take a quick 20 minute nap sitting there. Bob couldn't sleep so he woke me up and told me how he would like to head back immediately. I stared at him for some time without showing any immediate shock. He had mentioned going back since we left Chandratal one or two times on the bike but I did not take it seriously. He told me that his back hurts due to the poor suspension of the bike and suspected that he is falling sick due to the cold and the elevation. I wanted to say so much to him but all that came out of my mouth was :"Okay"We prepped again to hit the road at 3PM. I tried my best to go as slow as possible to keep Bob from slipping a disc or two as I watched Hari fly ahead. Soon the roads started getting better, so did our speeds. We watched the mountains flatten down as we crossed a number of small villages on the way. It looked like we were heading back to the civilisation, although different from anything we had ever seen. The paths were clean and soon our bikes started gripping themselves on the small patches of tarmac that were becoming apparent by now. I must have yelled out in excitement whenever I hit a good patch because I could feel Damini revving about in joy with me. It took us a couple more kms to finally shift to the third gear. Bob and his back were beyond happy, maybe more than me and Damini at this point. Soon the roads turned into perfectly laid tarmac and the plain spread out like a playground. We could see the the stretch of the path for kilometers. We pumped our throttle and flew through another 40kms until we reached a small bridge where the path split. We took the one with a signboard pointing towards Kaza near it.