Day 1 – 30.09.2022
My wife and I took the Qatar Airways flight from Delhi to Doha and connecting to Zagreb. We reached Zagreb at 01:35 pm and took a private transfer to the hotel. We used the services of Welcome Pickups (225 kn for private transfer) and they were very professional and gave on-time service. If you are on a budget, then the other good option is Uber taxi which would cost about 10-15 Kn depending upon your destinations. A more cost effective option is taking Bus No. 290 (12 kn per person) from the airport to the city from where you’ll have to move to a Tram (6 Kn per person) to reach your destination. Bus/Tram tickets can be bought directly from the driver or at any convenience store. Do not get on board without buying ticket else they are very prompt with fines.
We used this app called Moovit which helped with all the bus/tram/walking routes. This was a really helpful app and I strongly recommend using it. Taxis are a bit expensive so your mode of travel depends on your budget.
We stayed at Hilton Garden Inn Radnicka for one night. It’s a business hotel and had all the basic amenities. Please note that water is not provided for free at the hotel so you can buy one either at the hotel or at a supermarket although it is claimed that the tap water is safe to drink.
We went for Lunch to a Japanese Restaurant called Tekka. It was recommended but we did not find the sushi to be very good. It was average.
Thereafter we took the Tram to the centre square (Ban Jelačić Square) where we spent the good part of the evening just strolling and soaking in the city. It was raining on this day and luckily we had umbrellas with us. The streets are filled with eateries and so you can choose where to sit according to your liking. The menus are displayed on the outside so you can select the place on that basis.
We called it a night early as we were very tired from the long travel from India.
Day 2 – 01.10.2022
Next day morning we walked to the bus station (it was walkable from our hotel else take Uber) and took the 09:30 am bus to travel to Plitvice (pronounced Plit-Vit-Seh). We chose bus as a mode of transport (99 Kn each). We used the site www.getbybus.com to do the bookings. The site is authentic and absolutely convenient.
The first stop of the bus is at Entrance 1 of the Park. If your hotel is closer to Entrance 1 or if you are on a day trip from Zagreb or Split, then get off at this stop. We got down at Entrance 2 at 11:50 am as our booking was at Hotel Plitvice which is one of the three hotels within the park area (the other two being Hotel Jezero and Belleveue Hotel). The hotel is a short 5 min walk from the bus stop. Hotel Plitvice is a decent budget-friendly option. Otherwise, Hotel Jezero is more plush and has better amenities.
After checking in, we freshened up, changed into comfortable clothes and shoes for hiking in the lakes. We bought tickets online from this website which is the official site. We had booked tickets (80 Kn each) for day 1 and covered the upper lakes. To cover the upper lakes there are several trail options to choose from. However, we recommend taking Trail E as it is covers all the highlights of the upper lakes and is also fairly comfortable.
We entered the park at 1:45 and followed Trail E which took us about 2 1/2 hours to cover. When you reach at Entrance 2, walk down to Pier-1 and take the short boat ride to Pier-2. There is a cafe at P-1 from where you can pack something for the way or take a leak. Don’t forget to buy water/food as there is nothing on way until Station-3. Please keep in mind that the cafe only accepts card so keep a card handy.
After soaking in the views of the lakes, we reached Station-3 from where a bus operates to take you to Station-2 which is the starting point of Entrance 2. There is no extra charge for this bus ride as it’s included in the ticket cost. We ended our day and went back to the hotel for some relaxation.
Later in the night we headed to a restaurant called Lička Kuča (near Entrance 1) which serves traditional veal/lamb “under the bell” along with lika potatoes. This is a must have if you are a non-vegetarian. Please note that prior reservation is a must for getting a spot at this much sought after restaurant.
Day 3 – 02.02.2022
We had also booked tickets for the next day morning hike to the lower lakes from Entrance 1. However, our hotel receptionist informed us that the previous days’ ticket can be extended by the hotel for no extra charge. So this was something we learnt new that if you are staying in any of the hotels within the park area, this advantage can be had. As we had already bought the tickets online for day-2, we had no other choice but to use the same.
On day 2 we covered the lower lakes via Trail B along with the big falls and completed the hike in about 2 hours. After the hike of the lower lakes, you reach Pier 3 where we took the ferry to Pier 1. It is a serene 15 minutes ride through the middle of the park which is worth spending time on and soaking in the beauty of the calmness that the park has to offer. All the ferries and bus rides through the various spots of the park are included in the ticket price and makes the experience very convenient. At each station/pier there are toilets and eateries where you can grab a coffee or beer or a quick bite or just simply sit and catch your breath. Again, no cash is accepted anywhere in the park; so do carry a card.
For people who are very enthusiastic and looking for several secluded spots, they can choose to take Trail K which is the longest trail and covers woods of the park along with the lakes.
PS: If you are only on a day trip and not staying at the lakes then enter from entrance 1, use trail B and reach Pier-3. Take a boat (included in ticket cost) to Pier 2 and continue with Trail E to reach Station-3. It may be a little challenging to cover both the upper and lower lakes in one day but it is totally worth it. Take the bus to Station-1 and exit the park.
After spending the first half of the day in the park, we checked out of our hotel and hopped in next door to Hotel Jezero (5 min walk) for a sumptuous lunch. The risotto there is highly recommended. We had a local beer there called ‘Velebitsko’ and it was yum.
Soon thereafter, we reached the bus stop to catch the 15:15 bus to Split. The drive from Plitvice to Split is scenic and the bus took us via Zadar.
The bus ride lasted about 4 1/2 hours and dropped us at Split (near the harbour and old town) at about 19:50. Our hotel booking was with Hotel Luxe which is very conveniently located close to the old town, the harbour and the bus station all within 5-10 mins walking distance.
Given that it was late by the time we arrived at Split coupled with the fact that we were very tired, we could only manage to freshen up and have simple dinner at a thai joint (not very great). At night we just walked around the promenade soaking in the vibe and enjoying some nice gelato.
Day 4 – 03.10.2022
The next day we again went into the old town area and joined a group for walking tour of the Diocletian Palace. The tour can also be booked through websites like www.viator.com or www.getyourguide.com. However since we had not booked in advance, we decided to join an existing group. The guide was kind enough to allow us to join and so we covered the entire old town area and the palace in two hours time.
Since we got over with the walking tour at 12 pm, we decided to head to Trogir which is a small town about 45 min bus ride from Split. We took Bus No 37 (13 kn each) to Trogir. Soon after reaching Trogir, we took an Uber (60kn) to Quad Adventures for a 2 hour quad bike adventure ride along the coast. Our guide was good and well versed with the route. It was not a difficult terrain but required some skill and strength to handle the quad bike. We took only one bike and it cost us 650 kn for the entire tour. We met a friendly couple at the tour who were kind enough to give us a ride back to the town.
We grabbed a bite to eat on the go and visited the promenade which is dotted with several eateries and boats. There is a fortress at the end of the promenade which can be visited to take good pictures from the top. The entry was 30kn per head.
In the evening we caught Bus No 37 back to Split.
We headed to the promenade (old town area) for drinks and dinner. The hotel receptionist had suggested us to try ‘Portofino’ and that we did without any regret. The restaurant is cozy and serves delectable food. Just a heads-up, this restaurant did not have very many vegetarian options.
All restaurants across Croatia have their menu displayed on the outside, so do check the menu before taking a seat in. Also most of the good restaurants have the system of reservation and if you do not reserve in time there is a high possibility that no seats would be available. Find the number on Google and call them ahead for reservation.
We called it a night early as the next day was the main highlight of the trip : the 5-island tour.
Day 5 – 04.10.2022
We had booked the 5-island tour online through www.viator.com. The name of the tour operator was Mayer Charter. The other one that operates is Providenca Charter.
The speed boat was to leave from Matajurska Port which was a 15 min walk from our hotel. We reached there by 07:15 am and got to witness the beautiful sunrise over Split. We were greeted at the port by Nina (guide) and Tony (skipper) who got us on the 10 seater speed boat.
The speed boat ride is quite thrilling and bumpy. So if you are sea sick or have a bad back or are pregnant, then this tour is a big NO. The first leg of the boat ride was 1 hr 20 min and brought us to the island of Vis. We got off at the main village called Komiza which has some lovely cafes and breakfast joints. For the movie buffs – Mamma Mia was shot here.
We had breakfast at Fabrika. They served very good French Toast, sunny side up and coffee. We then walked around the town a bit and took some photos.
The next stop took us to Pakleni Island where we got to witness the Stiniva Beach which resembled a hole in the mountain. The tour then took us to the Blue Lagoon on Budikovac Island where we got about an hour to swim and enjoy the azure blue adriatic waters. Sitting on the beach was free but the sun beds cost 100 kn each. There is a bar just above the beach area which serves beer and other drinks on self service basis. Toilets are also available here.
Our next stop was the beautiful island of Hvar where we got about 3 hours to spend. The boat drops you at the main promenade which is filled with cafes and eateries. We had lunch at Dalmantino where we got to taste amazing carob liquer. It’s a must try. After some good lunch (we tried the black gnochi and tuna steak; the steak was good but the gnochi was quite average), we hiked to the Spanish Fortress which offers brilliant views of the town and the harbour. We did not enter the fortress but just lingered on the outside to take in the views and pictures.
Rest of the time we just walked around the town and bought some lavender oil (native to the island). Our ride back to Split was about an hour on the choppy waters. The tour included a trip to the blue caves but the visit to the blue caves is subject to adequate weather conditions and unfortunately for us it was a windy day so the caves were closed for entry.
PS - The trip to the blue caves is a part of the tour but the entrance to the caves is charged in extra and not included in the tour cost. A separate boat takes you inside the caves and they accept only cash (kuna). Another pro tip is that the beaches in Croatia are mostly rocky and thus it is advisable to have beach shoes on (they are easily available in decathlon in India and at several vendors in and around Split old town).
We got back to the hotel and showered up only to head back to the old town area again. Our dinner reservation was at Bokeria which, although was highly recommended, but was disappointing to us. Next to Bokeria is an Italian gelateria called Emiliana which serves out of the world gelato. We had the cheesecake, hazelnut and chocolate. It was yum and must give it a try.
Day 6 – 05.10.2022
The next day we had an early morning bus at 8 am to Dubrovnik. Upon reaching Dubrovnik at about 1 pm, we checked in to the hotel, Hotel Lero. This is a new property and reasonably close to the old city. The hotel advised us to buy the Dubrovnik Pass which costs 250 kn for a one-day and 300 kn for a three day pass. Since we were going to be in Dubrovnik for about 3 days, it made sense to pick up the three-day pass.
The advantage of buying the pass is that it not only gives you access to the walls of the old city which itself costs 250 kn pp but also entitles you to six bus rides. Apart from access to all museums inside the old city, it additionally gives you free access to Lovrijenac Castle which is right next to the old city and also gets you 20% discount on the Lokrum ferry. So it is worth it to buy. The pass can be bought either at your hotel or online or at Libertas Booth at Pile (pronounced as Pee-lay) Gate. After you buy the pass, don’t forget to pick up the bus tickets from the Libertas booth which is right next to the Amerling Fountain at Pile gate.
All the walking tours start at Pile gate so head down there for the start. It gets really hot in the summer months (about 35-40 degrees) so don’t forget sunscreen and a hat. Keep water handy although one can fill water from the nearby fountains which is perfectly safe to drink. Since we travelled in October, the weather was much pleasant (about 22 degrees) with cool wind in the hair.
We researched online and found a 4 pm sunset tour of the old city walls. The tour in evening is recommended as the sun is not blaring and you can witness a nice sunset.
The tour was starting at Pile gate and we, like before, joined an existing group. It cost us 150 kn each. The guide, Desa, was Croatian and was very well versed with the history of the city. She took us around the walls and explained in detail the finer nuances of the old city. The tour lasted for 2 hours including ample time for photographs. The traffic on the walls is one-way only (anti-clockwise) and gets crowded depending on the time of year of your visit. We got relatively less crowd so we were able to enjoy the walk without the shoulder to shoulder rush.
Once you get on to the walls, there is a nice big cafe where you can sit and enjoy the sunset else get off the walls and take a stroll on the main street called Stradun. This main street connects the Pile Gate with the Polče (pronounced Pol-che) gate. Explore the old city and it alleys which is dotted with restaurants and cafes. Gianni is a must try gelateria.
Day 7 – 06.10.2022
The next morning, we joined another group from the same spot for the Games of thrones tour. This tour cost us 27 euro each. Our guide was Davor who was also Croatian and was extremely funny. He took us through all the spots where games of thrones was shot in and around the city. The last leg of the tour was at Lokrum Island and we had to go by a 15-min boat ride. The entire trip lasted us about 3 hours. The Iron Throne (from Games of Thrones) is on this Island so do have the time to pics on the throne. We stayed back at the island and soaked in the sea and wind. There are many spots for swimming so you may want to carry your swim wear for a good dip. The last ferry from the island leaves at 6 so be on time.
PS: there are also kayaks available at Dubrovnik old town area which can be hired for the day. The adventurous ones can kayak till Lokrum Island.
We came back to the old town with ferry and had a quick lunch at Tutto bene. Their burgers and doner kababs are big thumbs up. We hung around the old town for a bit and then headed back to the hotel for some rest. In the evening, just before sunset, we went to Buza Bar (Buzz in Croatian means 'hole in the wall') and had the views of the most beautiful sunset. This is must visit place and do take the time to go here.
Later in the evening, we went to an Asian restaurant called Trinity. This was near the Hotel Palace so we took a bus. The whole of Dubrovnik is only 15 min from one side to the other, so no matter which part of the city you are in, just get a hang of the bus routes.
Day 8 – 07.10.2022
We had heard a lot about this city called Cavtat (pronounced as Saav-Taat). So the next day we checked out from the hotel in the morning and reached Cavtat by 11. We used a taxi (200 kn) as we had big luggage but there is also a ferry boat from Dubrovnik to Cavtat (13 kn). If you arrive at the bus station, there is a left-luggage room right next to the tourist info booth where you can leave you stuff (20 kn per piece) and enjoy the time at Cavtat.
We were in Cavtat for about 3 hours but this place is so good that an entire day would be less. This is a cheaper and a quieter version of Dubrovnik.
Take a walk around the coastal pathway, hire a boat or a kayak and spend your day here. It’s more peaceful here than Dubrovnik and has some wonderful beaches. We had lunch at this small hamlet by the name Rokotin. The food was reasonably priced and very sumptuous.
Like all good things, our trip also came to an end with the flight back to Zagreb and connecting to Delhi.