While watching the Anushka Sharma produced, Anvita Dutt directed film Bulbbul, I was transported back in time to the village of Bawali, a nondescriptive village in South 24 Parganas, West Bengal, where this film seems to have been shot. The palatial Bawali Rajbari has been portrayed beautifully in the film with its impressive dalaan or courtyard and the hallways. From dawn to dusk, every aspect of the rajbari was portrayed beautifully through its breath-taking cinematography. Along with the Rajbari, the film also showed some glimpses of a temple near the premises which was dedicated to Goddess Kali.
While watching those scenes, I was reminded of my visit to the temples of Bawali which are now lying in a state of derelict and despair. The main temple shown in the movie dedicated to Goddess Kali is in reality the temple of Radha Gopinath Jiu. It is a navaratna (nine pinnacled) structure with a nat-mandir (open-hall) in front, whose roof had caved in. The towering structure stands out among all the other temples. The European columns leading to the temple and the intricate terracotta work on the walls give it a quite distinguished look.
This towering structure was built by the Mondal family, the zamindars of the village of Bawali in the 16th century. According to the locals, the Mondals were initially Roys with the founder being Basudev Roy. His grandson, Shovaram Roy, was given the title Mondal by the Raja of Hijli. Few years down the line, Shovaram's grandson, Raja Ram was awarded with a number of villages as a token for his bravery including the village of Bawali. The Mondals, thus, built their residence there and constructed many temples. The family flourished under the influence of the East India Company and forged many trade relationships. As a result, they became one of the influential zamindars of those times. They built many temples and converted the commonplace village into a temple-town. Today, most of these temples are lying in ruins. Some of them have been renovated, while the others require immediate repair.
Adjacent to the temple is a dilapidated Nat-Mandap and beyond which are other temples covered in vegetation and infested with snakes making it practically impossible to even get to them.
There are many other other interesting structures scattered around the temple including the remains of a jal tungi (water folly) which is in the middle of a pond and only accessible by boat.
If you are an architectural enthusiast and looking for a day trip from Kolkata, this might be the perfect option for you. Even if you are not into architecture or history but the aspect of going to places where films were shot excites you, then definitely visit this place before nature takes its toll on it. Although you can't enter the Rajbari premises unless you have a reservation because it is a private property, you can definitely visit the village and the temple complex without any cost.
GETTING THERE
Bawali is located 40 kms from Kolkata and is easily accessible by bus or by car.
By Bus: Hop on any bus heading towards Amtala and from there take a bus to Raypur. There are several trekkers which can then take you to the temple complex. The only direct bus going to Raypur that I am aware of is Bus no.75.
By Car: Drive towards Joka and Amtala. Continue on the Thakupukur-Bibirhat-Bakhrahat-Raypur road, turn right on KP Mondal road and drive towards the Bawali High School. The Radha Gopinath Jiu temple will be visible at a distance. I've attached the Google Maps coordinates here.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
- Bawali is ideal for a day trip unless you are planning to stay at Rajbari Bawali.
- For a comfortable trip, start early. The winter months would definitely make for a better experience.
- There is no restriction on photography in the temple premises.
- Wear proper shoes and be on the lookout for snakes.
- There are not many eateries in this area so you might want to carry some food along. There are some hotels in Amtala so you could make a pit-stop for lunch or snacks on the way.
- If you have time after visiting the temple complex, take a rickshaw to Burul Ghat which is 11 kms away from the Rajbari and you can take a boat-ride on the Hooghly.
To understand the parallels between the movie Bulbbul and the temples of Bawali, please read my blog post here.