Kashmir in late winter: 'Sheen', meadows and cherished memories

DAY 1 – All things Srinagar and the (not-so) Dal Lake

Srinagar airport appeared dull and the weather did not help either. Only post-paid SIM cards work in Kashmir and so, there were people queued up outside to get one for themselves.

Our tour guide was waiting for me just outside the airport and along with two other fellow visitors, we then drove to the backpacker’s hostel where we were going to stay the night. It was a 35-minute drive from the airport, passing through dusty, under-construction roads, misty weather and the magnificent Dal Lake, which appears endless. I was left mesmerized at first sight of the massive lake, which is surrounded by snowy mountains.

After meeting other travelers (we were a group of 12) from all parts of the country, we set out to have a late lunch at a nearby restaurant. It was my first encounter with Kashmiri cuisine and I loved the dum aloo and long-grained rice. The rest of it was forgettable (read spicy and oily).

DAY 2 – Jungle ride on a sledge and healing properties of ‘sheen’

After a hearty breakfast of butter toast and jam, we left for Gulmarg (51 kms away) in a 12-seater tempo traveller, which was to be our ride for the rest of the trip. On reaching Tangmarg, we got into 4-wheel drive vehicles and set out on foggy, misty roads and surrounded by snow-covered hills, towards Gulmarg.

After disembarking, we walked 15 minutes to get to the boarding point for the Gondola ride. It is Asia’s second longest such ride and was crammed with tourists; the walls had paan stains and the washrooms were filthy. About 45 minutes later, came our turn to board the gondola and make our way to Kongdoori. Phase 1 of the ride takes you from Gulmarg to Kongdoori and Phase 2 is from Kongdoori to Apharwat. Since it had snowed heavily a few hours earlier, we could only go till Kongdoori, after passing some heavily snowed-in slopes.

At Kongdoori, we had some snacks – maggi, hot chocolate, coffee and biscuits. The cold weather was making everyone hungry and giving us a ravenous appetite. Coming down, we had two options. Go back the same way we came up – waiting in long queues – or take the jungle ride on wooden sledges. All of us opted for the sledge and we were so glad about it later.

It was a very exhilarating experience for me, on any snow slope, till date. Rizwan, my sledge co-rider, helped me every step of the way as we skidded, surfed and hurtled down tracks covered with snow at high speeds. Rizwan would ask me to hold on tight and follow his lead. There were times when I felt like Neytiri from the movie Avatar, riding my own version of a dragon, only on thick, sparkling snow.

I would have had the perfect sledge ride but for a bruise on the left knee which I got from banging into a wooden pole at high speed. When we saw the extent of the wound – some blood, mainly bruising – Rizwan did something special. He picked up a little snow and directly applied it to my left knee. “Ab theek ho jayega” (now, it will be alright). At that moment, I learnt of snow’s healing properties, known to those who spend most of their waking hours surrounded by its beauty and antiquity. Snow is called sheen in Kashmiri. Such a sweet name.

After a day of fun in the snow, we headed back to Tangmarg and checked into a partner hotel – a lovely wooden chalet-style accommodation. This one was spacious, well-lit and ventilated and with good aesthetics. After a hearty dinner, we gathered around a bonfire and exchanged reasons why we had chosen this particular trip at this specific time. All the reasons were interesting and made for good listening. The ice was officially broken and we were steadily progressing from being strangers to acquaintances to young friends.

DAY 3 – Overpriced artefacts and authentic saffron from Pampore

As we got ready for day three of the Kashmir trip, I set out on a little walk around the chalet and was surprised to find urbanization creeping up on natural features and improper waste management.

The entire day was spent shopping – for my co-travellers. I found it all overpriced and difficult to carry back. Plus, all the articles that were being sold – shawls, papier mache, dry fruits, carpets -- are now easily available across India. The only two things that got me excited were the kahwa and saffron, which we bought from a shop in Pampore. According to our guide, the world’s best saffron grows in a 4-sq-km area in Kashmir’s Pampore and that is why I just had to buy some in a cute glass case which made my wallet lighter by Rs 600.

On the way, we also stopped at the Awantipora temple ruins, which is magnificent even in disrepair and left me awestruck with its dimensions and the command it would have had on the spiritual aspect of people’s lives once.

The rest of Day 3 was spent travelling towards Pahalgam; it is 140 kms from Gulmarg. After a late lunch at a Punjabi dhaba, we had apple juice straight from an orchard. It was so fresh and delicious that most of us ordered a second round. It doesn’t get fresher than that…

We reached the Pahalgam hostel post 7.30 pm, well after dark. A late dinner was followed by an early retiring to bed. The time was 11:11 pm.

DAY 4 – Cool winds, coffee and a full moon night

We finally saw the stunning setting in which the Pahalgam property is nestled. Our trusted tempo traveler took us to the point from where the pony ride to Baisaran Valley starts. Some of us opted for the pony ride, three of us (including me) stayed behind. We spent a few hours in a park located right atop the Lidder river. The air was cool, crisp and refreshing, blowing in directly from the icy heights of snow-covered, craggy mountains surrounding us. The gentle warmth of the sun felt very soothing.

The two other trip-mates and I decided to spend the time waiting for the rest to come back from Baisaran Valley by buying overpriced coffee. We then had lunch at a south India restaurant. This felt a little surreal, since the fare was nearly authentic and tasted great.

Amid all this, I even witnessed a lovers’ tiff, right in the middle of the high street. I later spotted them playing it cool and acting normal in front of their parents and relatives.

All of us later drove to Aru Valley, a half-an-hour drive away. It was overcast and raining in Pahalgam and when we reached Aru Valley, that rain had turned into a minor hailstorm. It was breathtaking but obscured by clouds.

We then went back to our hostel, waited eagerly for dinner and then called it an early night. But not before looking up to see an alluring full moon – it was the night of ‘Holika Dahan’.

Three are types of cold in Kashmir – Chillai kalan, chillai khurd and chillai bach. Chillai Kalan (intense cold) is the local name given to the 40 day period of harsh winter in Kashmir. It is the coldest part of the winter, lasting from 21 December to January 29 every year. Chillai-Kalan is followed by the 20-day long Chillai Khurd (small cold) that occurs between January 30 and February 18 and a 10-day-long Chillai Bachh (baby cold), which lasts from February 19 to February 28.

Thankfully, by the time my visit began, the worst of the winter was over. Not that I did not miss it.

DAY 5 – Goodbye, Kashmir...

On the last day of the trip, we drove back to Srinagar. Along the way, we stopped for apple juice fresh from the orchard again but this time I skipped it. After reaching Dal Lake, we went on a shikara ride and spent around an hour on the lake. It had very peaceful vibes and I felt like falling asleep to the sound of the paddle gently caressing the water.

I spotted a floating post office and a police station on the lake as well. Quite novel!

After this, it was time to head up towards the Shankaracharya temple, which is situated atop a hill with 360 degree views of Srinagar. There are over 200 steps that lead to the temple, the structure of which is quite simple but no less impressive.

Time for lunch – instead of opting for the spicy fare, I settled for a plate of curd rice and felt so much lighter because of it.

The tulip garden beckoned and we used the opportunity to revel in the sights and colours of the kaleidoscopic site nestled in the lap of towering mountains. There were apricot, cherry and magnolia trees. There were tulips, daffodils and pansies. There was the distinct sound of joyous multitudes having stumbled upon something as pure and pristine as these flowers. Truly unforgettable!

We then reached the hostel, dropped our luggage and headed out towards Lal Chowk on our last night in Kashmir. Enroute, we stopped at Ahdoo’s restaurant and had kahwa and pastries. Lal Chowk was lit up brightly and it was hard to believe that this was the iconic destination that once stood witness to a tumultuous past.