On way up from Gairoli Patal, the vegetation becomes scarce and soon the tree line disappears. The views are awesome all through the walk and clouds will pass through you frequently covering you in mist. Bedni Bugyal is a fine camping site with vast meadows around.They have even got a net for volleyball. Also, it is the best site if you want to do some photography.
Day 3: Bedni Bugyal - 11,700ft.This day comprised of all the lazying around at Bedni campsite. Which includes dog cuddling, soup sipping, skygazing and a small hike to Bedni top.
The day started at 5:30 am. We began our morning routine of packing & getting ready. The sun slowly came up & the clouds gave way to one of the most beautiful sights I have seen till date - the mighty Mt. Trishul peeking out from the layers of mountains & Mt. Nandaghunti standing besides it. The sun rays hit the two peaks & we saw the Himalayan giants shining in all their glory. No picture does this sight any justice, you have to experience it yourself because waking up to this picturesque frame hits you like a wave of hope & exuberance. It takes you a minute to take in the magnitude of the moment all the while realizing how insignificant you are in front of nature. As we turned left we were greeted by more peaks - the Neelkanth & the Chaukhamba. Chaukhmba happens to be a collection of 4 peaks as the name suggests & interesting enough is visible from my home in Almora on a clear day.So, after a brief existential crisis we headed to the tea shop to begin the negotiations for the mule for the coming day. We spent close to an hour finding the man for the job & then we finally did. We paid 900 for all three bags today.While having our ready to eat breakfast we talked about the coming journey. The destination today was Bhagubasa. A 12 km trek which would take us to a height of 14500 ft. The first 6 km till Patar Nachuni was a straight path but after that it was a steep 5 km hike to Kalu Vinayaka & then an eventual straight road to Bhagubasa.We started at 8:15 am today. We needed to climb up for roughly 400 mts & then we would hit the straight path. We crossed Bednikund which is a small pond right outside the Bedni campsite. You can see the reflection of Mt. Trishul & Nandaghunti in the kund & it is a sight to behold. The 400 mt climb proved to be challenge in itself. Once we hit the straight road I started feeling the effects of altitude as breathing became a problem. I stopped after a few kms and consulted a local guide. Just by looking at me he concluded that I wasn't drinking sufficient water & suggested consuming at least 5 liters a day which is problematic since water is not abundant on this trek. He also got Raghu to check our oxygen levels with an oximeter & clearly told us if our oxygen saturation was below 75 we would have to head back down. We waited for a very tensed minute to get the result & thanked our lucky stars that it was around 85 for all three of us. Another piece of advise he gave me was to stay away from any medication & let the body adjust on its own. Lastly, his final advise I think saved me from facing AMS (acute mountain sickness). He advised me to breath deeply, inhaling from the nose & exhaling through the mouth & I kid you not, I did that for the next two days without break & I really think that helped my body tremendously to adjust to the environment. After trekking a few hours we reached Patar Nachuni & had the first item of food that we hadn't cooked ourselves - bun omelette. It was like having a food orgasm. Here we braced ourselves for the steep climb. We started again & as we gained altitude it got colder & colder. We left the alpine grounds behind & the rocky path started. Past Kalu Vinayaka it was simple enough walk to Bhagubasa which is covered in rocks. Here it was a task to find a non rocky surface to camp but finally we managed to find one. We reached Bhagubasa at 2:30 & at 3:30 just when we were setting up the tent it stared hailing. We channeled our inner Speedy Gonzalez & pitched the tent in flat 5 minutes, an activity that usually took us 15 minutes, at least, under normal conditions. We got into the tent and warmed ourselves. Bhagubasa was a tough campsite as the temperature dipped down to single digits & the lack of oxygen made us lethargic. My mates dozed off as did I. I woke up after an hour & got a chance to catch a glimpse of Trishul & Nandaghunti since they were covered under fog till then. The sight was quite short as the sun quickly went down. I headed to the tea stall & had bun butter which turned out to be the dinner for the day as we were in no shape to cook. I went back to the tent & dozed off while my mates headed for the shop for their dinner. We all slept pretty early as we were to wake up at 3:00 am the next morning for the actual summit. No Rum tonight.
This day we go for an acclimatization walk to Bedni top. Acclimatization typically means to get used to a changed environment, in our case high altitude and changing weather. Before heading over to Bedni top, the Indiahikes team introduced us to their Green Trails Initiative ( for more details check out their website ) and assigned us a task to pick up any sort of garbage lying around Bedni. Everybody heartily did it, after all we are the ones who should be saving our mountains because it is some of us who choose to destroy them. Anyway, after the task we head over to Bedni top.
We wake up and find ourselves in a dilemma. Till last night we had comfortable bathrooms with us, but today we didn't even have a bathroom. I am not going to describe the whole bathroom process here, but just so you know, it ain't a pretty sight. After we freshen up and have our breakfast, we set off to trek. Everyone was pretty excited today because we were going to be trekking in lush green meadows half the time. So everybody was pumped up while trekking, which ultimately helped us finish the forest part of the trek pretty soon. Today I was among the first ones to come out of the forest. That sight, oh that beautiful sight of the meadows is non-describable. It is pretty, it's beautiful, it's windy, but moreover it's soothing. We went a little further to reach Ali Bugyal. Here 'Ali' is the 'name of the meadow' and 'Bugyal' means 'Meadow'. The view from over here is something I cannot put in words. I can show you pictures but even that won't give you the feel it would give if you were actually there.