Sandakphu – Phalut trek is a must do trek in the mind of nature lovers. Its considered a moderate to difficult trek due to its altitude. The summit was at 11,930 ft.
One need to be physically and mentally prepared for such treks and these are conducted by various trek organisers and we went through #IndiaHikes who organized the whole trek professionally.
It was a 6 day trek that included a day’s stay at the base camp which is located at the Sepi Village.
The whole trail goes around Singalila National Park, that spreads over West Bengal and Sikkim. The trail also passes through Nepal at various intersections, so we need to submit over 6 sets of our ID proofs and some day camps were close to Army Camps, so one need to ensure that the regulations are met to avoid unnecessary troubles.
This time it was Sudar and Myself planned it together and as usual he did the maximum planning and bookings and I only focused on the fitness criteria so that we qualify for the trek.
Taking a 10 day break(including travel) from family and work causes anxiety, but the reality is that everything runs even without us. Best part of the trek I would say was no network/ range in most of the camps.
We took the flight to Bagdogra from Chennai and the base camp was atleast 7-8 hrs from Bagdogra. We landed at 3 pm a day before, as it was recommended not to travel late on the hills, hence we decided to stay close to Airport for the night and stayed at a functional lodge in a place called Bihar More. More in Bengali means Market/ Junction, there were so many Mores on our way.
Having the evening with us, we decided to go and explore #Siliguri, called the Chicken neck of India, which all of us would have drawn during our earlier geography classes, the literal mode of connectivity to the North east states.
It was a populated town and we went to Hongkong market, apparently lot of trades used to happen earlier with HK and hence this name, dint see a relevance now. It’s a large market for clothes, accessories and road side eateries. Gives a good prelude to West Bengal.
Did some Bengal cotton saree shopping and caught up with the golgappe and parathas. We couldn’t try the Machi ka jhol due to strictly veg food due to the fast for Sudar’s Sabarimala visit.
Our pick up next morning was around 8 am and we finished our breakfast close to the stay and set out to the base camp Sepi.
We met few members of the group and it was a good mix of experienced trekkers and school kids joining after their board exams.
Enroute was scenic and we passed through a local hill station called Mirik(Paradise for couples) and also crossed Pasupathi, which was an entry and border to Nepal. One can get through the border with a copy of Aadhar Card and is permitted to stay for a week’s time to shop and explore local food and culture.
We continued our journey and reached a location called Mane Bajang, which is a mid-point for various treks. It was the lunch point savoring us with Thupka and some local veg and greens.
We shifted into another vehicle to reach Sepi, all these transports were through Tata Sumo/ Mahindra Bolero. It was another steep drive through narrow roads. The locals here starts driving at young age as this is their primary job. The one who drove us to Sepi was like a wire and occupied only one third of the driver’s seat, he was quite skillful and most of them are good singers.
We crossed Rimbick, which was the last market of India. It had traditional market between Nepal and India, mainly on the yields of mountain by villagers. Sepi was a 10 min drive from Rimbick and we reached our base camp Sepi.
That evening we had rounds of introduction, briefing and rules of the trek. The trek leader was quite a passionate trekker from our God’s own country and was accompanied by skilled local Trekkers in his team.
We closed the day with good dinner and sleep to start the trek next morning.
Reuse and Recycling concept was practically enbibed in the agenda, so that was a good learning experience.
Day 1 – Trek from Sepi to Samadhan.
The trek leader gave update on the trek route and also taught the basics of adjusting backpacks, holding trek poles and adjusting shoe knots. We started the trek around 8.30 am and crossed Srikola Bridge, which is considered sacred and is believed to be protecting floods for the mountain. Buddhist flags were tried all around the bridge. The trek started with ascend after the bridge and was a motorable road connecting few other villages, the valley was steep on the right. The trek leaders kept saying stay to the mountain side as Mules were passing by.
After a while, the trail entered the dense forest with tall oak trees and pine trees. It was a moist forest with fresh ferns and small water stream across. Got the first view of Rhododendrons pink, red, white. Very few were blooming at the levels we were at. Trek Lead was saying there were around 18 species found in the mountain range and also was mentioning that the bright colours are used for jams, wines etc and white colours were refrained from cooking as it wasn’t edible. There were clusters of pine and oak nuts spread on the grounds of forest. Beautiful sight and environment to walk around.
We stopped for lunch in a homestay at Rambam enroute and they were an excellent host, the hot food served in the weather was divine. Baingan ka barta was delicious, they also had some local make pickles, but the spice levels were not suitable for outsiders.
Post lunch trek was at a slow pace and after sometime, we stopped over a river that was separating Sikkim from West Bengal. We all dipped our foot in the freezing water and it was so refreshing, fresh stream with water gushing across was quite a view to remember.
The ascend after this was very steep and the path was very narrow, after a long walk, we ` the base for the night. The village name was Samadhan, and in local language it means “Golden Plate”. The reason for the name is that it was a circular flat land between the mountains, which when viewed from higher altitudes looks like a golden plate when the sun rays fall. It was a small village with less than 100 families, only accessible on foot and was beautiful. The locals are hardworking and have managed to cultivate various crops like potato, peas and when the harvest happens, they carry the loads on the back and trek this hard route to reach closed motorable area which is minimum few hours of walk. Life is not easy for them in our eyes, but they are full of happy and content people.
There was a iconic stone that was decorated with garlands with a myth that even the strongest men cannot pull it out. Everyone had their hand on it, but nothing moved an inch. Later that evening the trek leader told the story that the Humans and Yeti had a war as Yeti was believed to take away their livestocks and harm them. So they had put a mark through that stone saying, until that stone exist, Yeti will not come in to their village. The village also has control that they will not roast meat in the mountain, as the smell can call out Yeti.
The stay was functional and was like dorms, good food was served and the hosts were very kind.
As the first day trek was promising and tiring, dint focus much on the water intake and some small snack breaks. As an outcome, I freaked out on the pakoras they had prepared for the evening.
There is general say that digestion is always difficult in mountains, I had my learnings for over eating pakoras. Had a terrible night and due to indigestion, puked out twice in the morning, that made me very weak for the trek on day 2.
Day 2 – Samadhan to Molley
The hosts were very kind and gave us a see off the traditional way of garlanding us with the Buddhist colourful cloths.
We all had a morning warm up and started the trek around 9 am. Started the trek with a week mind and body, found it hard to pull the distance. Was sipping ORS now and then.
Sudar gave me company and he also slowed down and was feeling tired, may be feeling sick was also contagious.
We were the last to move around, the peers were great people and kept cheering us.
This trail was different from day 1, in between pine forest, there were beautiful bamboo trails and huge trees of Pink Rhododendron fully bloom. It was so heartening, the breeze, the fragrance, the quietness, still reverberating. We saw a cute Rufous Bellied Niltava, quietly perching on a small stump in front of us. It was so graceful flying around not disturbed by our presence.
We had packed lunch for that day and the trek leader took us to a nice picnic spot and flat land encircled by Bamboos. It was lovely place and I used that opportunity to catch up a 15 min power nap. That helped very much to get back on track.
Around 3.30 pm, we were nearing the last mile of the camp and the clouds were turning gray with loud thunder. We were not sure if it’s a warning or its going to pour. The rear trek guide asked us to pull out the ponchos quickly. By the time, we pulled out the ponchos, we had a good shower from the sky.
Rain in the mountains was a special experience, the whole place changed in a moment. Safety was a concern as the trail become slippery, we got a little aware and stayed focused to reach the camp and safety was the priority at that point.
We reached the camp crossing a military camp, life is not easy for those Jawans, great respect for the men out there.
The place was extremely cold and we added layers and relished the hot tea and momos served on the mountain. That was luxury to us.
The tents were cosy and the bio toilets was functional and easy to use. Had a good sleep that night.
We were to watch the sun rise next day and had to wake up at 3.30 am.
Day 3 - Molley to Sabargram - Phalut
We left the camp site at 4.30 am and trekked a small distance to a meadow where we saw the alpines glowing gold with the first rays of Sun falling on them.
It was an enticing sight one could behold in lifetime.
We reached the Sabargram site and left the backpack and carried a daypack from there to reach Phalut.
Phalut is an important place to get a good view of the sleeping Buddha and was a good 13 KM trek from Sabargram.
The trail was again very different, this was the first time I experienced something called Ridge.
Ridge are the huge opening between the mountains where the wind intensity is very high and can easily push you out of the path.
The trek leader gave instructions on the trail and also asked us to layer very well.
This is where we saw the mountain in pink. Thousands of Rhododendron trees fully boom and in between there were meadows and ridges.
The trek was flat with little ascends, compared to the ascends we had in the trek.
Really enjoyed this trail, crossing the ridges gave jittery feeling.
We had a short stop before the final ascend to the summit. It was so windy and literally testing our will. It was rewarding the reach the top and get the first glimpse of the sleeping Buddha. The weather was so favorable and the view we got was stunning.
After a brief stay, we descended back to Sabargram. It was very tiring because of the wind.
The tents were laid well and we got to rest for a while. The wind was so loud and the trek leader gave a briefing, not to worried about the tent being carried away by wind. If he had not given that comfort, I wouldn’t have entered the tent. Cant explain the wind intensity there.
The kids on the trek were doing star gazing at night and we joined them. Wow, one cannot compare this to the smoke blanketed sky we see in the urban cities. What clarity, sharpness, simply brilliant and yes we saw shooting stars left, right and center.
Had a good sleep that night after the hectic trek.
Day 4 – Sabargram – Aal
Started around 8 from the camp, it was a long trek. The trail was very similar to Phalut, meadows and ridges.
Rhodo was full boom on this route as well. All through, the trail was cris cross between India – Nepal border.
We stopped for lunch at a place called Thokkum. This is a motorable place and attracts tourists, we found interesting Land rover vintage jeeps that was actually Mahindra jeep covered by LR exterior.
Post lunch, it was again a long walk mostly on a motorable road before we reached the camping place called Aal.
It was a beautiful village with Yaks grazing around. The place was so windy and cold, we saw the beautiful sunset right there. I had my cheat meal Maggi for first time on the trek. The homestay was cosy, I still cant believe how the houses are still holding grounds for the intensity of cold wind. The eolian sound was absolutely crazy.
Had a great sleep at night after the long rewarding trek.
Day 5 – Aal to Gurudom.
We were right at India Nepal border, where the Mt Everest and Sleeping Buddha view was at its best.
After a short 2 km trek from the camp, we reached Sandakphu, the destination and we did a summit there as well on a small hillock.
After this, the descend started. The distance we covered in 4 days has to be descended in 2 days.
The trek leader warned us, how we need to be cautious about descend and how it can cause injuries. It was quite different experience, but we had so much fun finding partners, chatting on out of the blue topics.
We stopped for lunch at a place which looked like a valley, it was a real picture perfect location of a highland. It was place called Dhuphatar.
A group of team reached early and that’s the place we played frisbee. That was one of the best moments of the trek.
As we started descending, weather was warming up and we had to remove layers.
After a brief trek, we reached Gurudom. This was more like a homestay for a vacation.
Very comfortable stay and food. The host savored us with hot Samosas.
Crashed early and had a good sleep.
Day 6- Gurudom to Sepi (Base camp).
In the morning, saw a beautiful sunrise at nicely placed between the mountains. There was a small souvenir shop at the homestay and we all shopped in possible means and left for the base camp.
In between there was a beautiful water body and lot people dared to take a dip in that.
In another 2 hours we reached the base camp. Couldn’t believe we did a 75Km trek and made a circle to reach back to the camp.
Everyone felt accomplished and thanked, greeted each other and also departed.
Recalled the phrase the trek leader told on day 1.
“You don’t choose mountains, the mountains choose you”
True and wise words
Comes another phrase which resonates.
“Mountain keeps calling you back”
Yes we are planning 😊
