The Bengal Chapter 'K'andid Kurseong

Chapter 1: The Planning

Well honestly speaking visiting Kurseong on a leisure trip doesn't require much deliberation especially for a Bangali or Bong like me who has managed to fix his "Shoshur Bari" or In Laws place at Siliguri. However, the duration and the strength of the team will definitely be the guiding factors in case you are planning a proper trip. In my case though, Kurseong was just an hour away as I was planning the tour from my in-laws' place at Siliguri.

Tour without planning seems like attending a wedding where you don't know anybody, there's no pre discussions and hence there's no pre excitement. So, to spice it up a bit, self and better half had always made it a point to indulge ourselves in planning no matter how small a trip may be. So, even the ultra short tour to Kurseong was cherished through planning with a cup of hot tea after busy dais in offices. Being hard core Bongs, we were looking for a homestay with option of Bengali cuisine which would produce that homely aroma to tickle our appetite, and to our luck we could get in touch with the Dew Drop Homestay owned by Mr Mukherjee. And as we all say "Subhasya Shigram", we booked the Homestay for a night without giving it a second thought. Our Booking was for the Night of 07 December and checkout was on 08 Dec 2024 by 11 AM. Details of expenditure will be shared at the end of this blog.

Chapter 2: Journey Begins

We started post lunch at around 0330 PM since we had our own commitments at offices and could not leave early morning which is generally the norm we follow. For the Uphill journey we had booked a Cab (Swift Dezire) which charged us around Rs.2000 from our home till the homestay. Interested readers can put in a comment and I will be happy to share the contact no of the driver.

Our tour starts immediately from the time the tyres start rolling, swaying down a wave of excitement through our spine and igniting us to look through the windows to start capturing the moments either in the silicon chips we carry or to get it etched permanently in the organic brain cells. Siliguri is a busy town (Cosmopolitan) with a population of approximately 11 lac (Google). While navigating the busy traffic and the congested roads, one finds it hard to believe that a lush green world filled with diverse flora and fauna awaits with all its grandeur just minutes away from the hustle & bustle of the fast city life. Our first stop for a tea break was at Timboor on the Trail, a beautiful cafe astride Rohini road. The sip on the first flush with the aroma of the exotic tea spreading all around with the chilly breeze makes the experience more surreal and enjoyable.

Chapter 3: Dew Drop Homestay

As we were negotiating the heights and the night fell in, the Cold was getting bitter and penetrating. We both were staring through the closed glass windows of the cab at the darkness sprinkled with dwindling lights hundreds of feet below and thinking how warm & cozy the set up would be inside the room at our homestay. Time was around 6 PM and we finally reached our abode for the night. Dew Drop Homestay is situated in a domicile surrounded with local residences and local populace. But the USP of the Homestay is the open roof attached with the rooms which gives a panoramic view of the Himalayan Range standing with all its might and glory. The rooms were cozy with all basic amenities required in winters which included adequate blankets, sleepers, electric kettle, thermos flask etc. The maid or I personally prefer to call her Auntie, was the only one looking after the property as Mr Mukherjee was out of town with his wife for some commitments. The only thing which I missed was the concept of "Running Servant"- a concept from the maestro himself, Oscar Winning Writer & Director Mr Satyajit Ray (For all those who have watched Joy Baba Felunath infinite times like me). After initial settling in, I didn't waste any time in enjoying the hot cup of Darjeeling tea sitting on the open terrace attached with the room. The majestic view of the dark bluish mountain range sprinkled with flickering lights resembled our vast galaxy with millions of stars. The calmness all around with sudden howling of dogs shattering the silence, sounds of distant talks of locals returning to their homes and the whispering cold wind brushing against our faces were altogether making the place intoxicatingly exciting. I had to perforce order one more cup of tea to relish the offerings of Mother Nature in a platter.

Now for those who wish to savor some snacks with hot or cold drinks, he/she needs to give a call to the local restaurant (Kureseong diaries/ Amarjeet Hotel) for delivery at the homestay. There is no provision of snacks at the homestay as the Auntie is the only cook and she keeps busy preparing the dinner. We had ordered a plate each of wai-wai chat and crispy corn with pepper and the order was delivered within 20 minutes. Post tea, the lull was unbearable and the mind was vehemently asking for some hot snacks to fight the temperature which came down to single digit by 0730 PM. One can carry their own liquor if they wish to as the local shops are near the station itself and are often closed early by 0830 PM.

The Dinner was served by 9 PM with hot plate of rice, daal, begun bhaja (brinjal fries), Aloo bhaja (Potato fries), chicken curry and chutney. Taste was as we wanted- Absolutely Homely. Before diving deep inside the blankets and calling it a day, I took the pain (though joyous) of taking a few more shots of the mystic night views from the terrace.

Chapter 4: Good Morning Kurseong

The rise was late as we both were dead tired and needed a long and sound sleep. However, mother nature did not let us down and gifted us a misty morning and we felt proud being a pseudo early riser. At 0830 AM we cherished our bed tea. With lot of inertia I struggled to get out of my bed and wrapped myself head to toe with the blanket itself and ventured to get out to get some morning landscapes clicked. However, Kanchenjunga was still shying away beneath the thick clouds.

Chapter 5: A walk to Eagle Crag

We did not take breakfast in the homestay as we had planned to have it at Margaret's Deck. So, after a quick tea and munching few biscuits we started our quick walk to Eagle Crag - A popular tourist spot of Kurseong. Travelling has multiple facets. It can be purely a leisure activity, photography oriented or knowing the place and the local cultures. I in most cases belong to the second category with a pinch of the third sprinkled in each of my travel stories. While walking upslope from our homestay towards Eagle Crag, we experienced a local wedding ritual wherein the groom was setting off his journey to sacrifice his bachelorhood and then we witnessed the maze of water pipelines which seemed that those were screaming out the lines "Save Water, Save Each Drop Traversing Me". After a short climb, we found out the lush green tea garden on our right and the gigantic Kurseong tower standing tall as a witness to the constant changes happening to his dear "Kharsang"- The Lepcha word which means "The land of the White Orchid" . The tea plants were blooming with flowers and we had to use the google lens to get the original name of the flower that is 'Camelia Sinesis'. As the clouds touched our hands and passed silently we realised that we had reached the gate of Eagle Crag, a beautiful park decorated with all the required amenities to attract both the young and the old. Due to paucity of time we did not venture inside the park but walked our way back to the homestay after a few clicks.

After returning back from the morning trail, it was time to check out and head to Margaret's Deck for a slow a sumptuous breakfast. Before leaving we took a final few shots of the beautiful Dew Drop Homestay.

Kurseong Station is a 5 min walk from the homestay. So, we decided to walk till the main road and book a cab for our next destination. It is important to mention here that booking a cab is a matter of bargain in any Hill station. Kurseong is not an exception. The first overwhelming rate for Kurseong- Margaret's Deck- Dow Hill- Kurseong was about Rs.2500/- So, we decided to walk towards the bus route from the main stand with a hope of catching a trekker or a Sumo enroute. However, after walking for 10 mins we decided to take a halt in front of a small roadside tea stall to savor some hot tea as it was quite windy and chilly with no signs of sunlight even at 11 AM in the morning. While sipping on the hot cup of thick milk tea, we started chit chatting with the shop owner who hails from Bihar, but has been running the shop for past 15 odd years. He is the one who then took the initiative and called his friend for a car and we could hire a Maruti Omni for the entire route for just Rs.1200/-

Chapter 6: The Margaret's Deck

Amidst the whispers of the Himalayan breeze, Margaret's Deck stands as a serene haven in Kurseong. The misty veil of the mountains gently caresses this charming spot, as if nature herself were bestowing a blessing. The wooden deck, weathered to perfection, stretches out like a gentle hand, inviting all to bask in the tranquility of the surroundings. It took around 30 mins to reach the most waited breakfast destination and we could not wait to rush inside to get hold of our favorite balcony table.

Once you are at Margaret's Deck, the air seems to be alive with the sweet scent of blooming flowers – rhododendrons, orchids, and wild roses – and the soft chirping of birds, weaving a melodic tapestry that soothes the soul and calms the mind. The gentle rustle of leaves, the soft whisper of the wind and the distant whistle of the toy train, all blend together in a symphony of sounds that is at once calming and invigorating. Sharing a few captures.

For those who capturing the moments, Margaret's Deck is going to keep you busy as every nook and corner provides the most precious frame which is hard to compromise on. With a lot of restraint from the photographer inside me, I decided to take the most needed break to enjoy the hot breakfast that was laid for us by the well dressed waitress. The weather outside was cold with the strong winds making it all the more difficult to sit. So, we had decided to enjoy our meal inside the cafe which provided us a nice and cozy corner with the heater on. The menu was lavish: Bread Toast with jam & Butter, Masala Omlette, Red Sauce Pasta, hot Pancakes served with Honey and one more round of Darjeeling Tea. The bill was within Rs.1000/- which I felt was quite reasonable seeing the ambience that you get to enjoy and the quality of food that you are served with it. After enjoying a sumptuous meal we clicked few more photographs to save on as many memories as we could before starting our journey towards India's one of the most Haunted Destination that is Dow Hill.

Chapter 7: Dow Hill

So, what strikes your mind the first when we talk about Dow Hill? The general thought would be one of the most haunted location of India right? Spontaneous imaginations of the hauntings of the headless young boy running around in the woods, silent footsteps following you stealthily, the occasional screams of unknown women or may be the screeching sounds from distances will play around your mind immediately. But how much of those tales are true is a matter of argument or a matter of perception of how you describe the place: Heavenly or Spooky! For me as a traveler, local folklores are matters to be respected and not to be argued upon. However, when it comes to my personal opinion, Dow Hill is nothing short of a small piece of paradise lying about 30 kilometers from Darjeeling.

Dow Hill, a small hill station is known for its beautiful vistas, orchid gardens, forested hills and tea plantations. One can explore the sounds of nature – the chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves and the gentle hum of insects – creating a soothing melody, punctuated by the occasional chime of the school's historic bell tower. The scenic vistas that unfold from every corner of the picturesque hill station are nothing short of breathtaking – the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, the lush green forests and the rolling hills, all blending together in a kaleidoscope of colors and textures. Whether one is hiking through the surrounding forests or simply basking in the warmth of the sun-drenched meadows , Dow Hill is a place where time stands still and the beauty of nature reigns supreme.

After zig zagging the NH 110 for about 30 minutes, our omni took a halt infront of the famous Dow Hill Girls School. I hopped down to take a few shots as below.

After strolling for a few minutes around the school we went to explore a small stretch of road between the Dow Hill and the Forest office in Kurseong that has been named as the ‘death road’ by the locals. While sipping a cup of hot tea with crunchy wai wai we had a little chat with the shop owner. The shopkeeper himself had never faced anything weird but had heard stories like we all did. We also came to know that the present DFO is carrying out lot of developmental activities along with the locals to promote tourism in the small hilly hamlet. After paying the bill at the tea stall we started our trek through the mysterious pine forest. Before entering the death road you will find a Gate Saying "Beware- Downhill Forest", the reason unknown to all. After walking 20 meters upslope, you will witness one more board on your right saying "Mystic Forest Trekking", adding to the mysteries and the silent aura of that place.

We had spent a good about 20 mins on that mystic stretch, took a few photographs and decided to return as we had to go back to Siliguri the same day. But I would definitely recommend all to trek the complete stretch of approximate 800 meters to reach the forest office atop. Sharing a few picture of whatever we could experience.

While returning we had stopped briefly in front of Victoria Boys High School. The funny part was I witnessed a few budding youtubers from Kolkata (not naming the channels) mostly famous for their horror podcasts had gathered at the same place, right in front of the main gate of the school . I quietly observed them for few minutes to understand what they are cooking for their audience. One of them was shooting a clip where in I over heard him saying in an ominous tone "I can feel someone's presence around me, I just spoke with a local who cautioned me not to venture in this place and that he too had also been a witness to many hauntings". Then there was a cut in the shoot, as the videographer had mistakenly put his finger bang on the lens! A sudden burst of laughter pierced my ears and I turned back to see a gang of young girls and boys were busy relishing ice creams and snapping those memories in the most jovial way they could. A few aged tourist standing as a group were complaining about their knee pain and the scarcity of water and refreshments they were facing at that moment. Amidst all the clamor and cacophony the horror podcasters were determined to pop out a ghost out of nowhere which I felt was becoming quite a struggle for them as well.

Chapter 8: Bidding Adieu

With infinite memories and GBs of photographs and videos we came to kurseong station. We took a small break to go stroll around the station which itself is an attraction for the tourists and had been the backbone of Tourism since time immemorial. After witnessing a Toy Train whistle by emitting a plume of steam in the misty air, we decided to call it a day and start our journey downhill to Siliguri. We booked two seats for ourselves in a shuttle from the taxi stand in the vicinity of the station which was quite pocket friendly with each seat costing Rs. 150/- only. Few minutes from when the wheel rolled on and the cold breeze touched our tired face, everything seemed blurry as we both got drowned into a deep slumber! We came back to our senses when the shuttle driver bellowed out the familiar name at the top of his voice "Siliguri... Siliguri... Siliguri......" assuring us that we have reached Home.

Fun Facts:

1. Kurseong is situated at an altitude of 4864 feet and in 26 degree- 53 minute North latitude and 88 degree- 17 minute East longitude.

2. The European and Anglo-Indian community are deeply indebted to the late Sir Ashley Eden for establishing the Dow Hill Girls' School and the Victoria Boys' School.

From "A Concise History of The Darjeeling District since 1835" by E C Dozey.

Expenditure:

1. Cab Siliguri to Kurseong: 2000/-

2. Dew Drop Homestay (Double bed room for one night) incl Dinner for two persons: 2260/-

3. Evening Snacks: 660/-

4. Kurseong local tour: 1300/-

5. Margaret's Deck: 800/-

6. Shuttle Kurseong to Siliguri: 300/-

7. Misc: 500/-

Total: 7820/-