23.10.2023, Today was the day....
'We can and We Will' cried out the group probably for the fourth last time. It was their slogan for this tough journey.
Motivational speech from trip leader fueled their energy higher, off they left to conquer this dream trek. Everest Base Camp rock flashed with every stepping ascend.
Every year, over 30,000 people trek to catch a glimpse of the most famous mountain on Earth. This year, I joined them.
Let's rewind back the memories and go back to the day I booked this trek with Firgun Travels, after brief discussions with trip leader Anany Shukla.
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"Everest Base Camp trek is a reminder that the journey itself is the destination, an adventure that transcends the boundaries of ordinary travel, introduces you to the spirit of mountains, and immerses you in deep valleys of the Himalayas." is how I could wrap this experience in short.
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Day-1 : Reached Kathmandu airport in afternoon, bought NCell sim card for 1000 NPR (25GB for 28 Days). The network is good in Katmandu upto Tengboche. (24hr network voucher are available further)
Most of the trek gears are available in Kathmandu market, trekking poles, hydration bag, thermal accessories like caps, neck warmers, gloves, socks are best to shop locally.
We carried our day bag weighing around 5-6 kg which included hydrating bladder of 2-3 litre water, fleece, raincoat, medicine kit, snacks, trek pole and personal electronic gadgets. Our stay luggage weighing ~10-12 kg were carried by Sherpa's in duffle bags provided by trekking company.
A overnight 4-5 hours journey from Kathmandu to Ramechhap.
We had morning 'propeller plane - that seat only 15 to 19 passengers' from Ramechhap to Lukla.
Tensing-Hillary airport, known as the World's most dangerous airport due to its high altitude low pressure and short runway, a runway surrounded by mountain terrain and its incline landing ending directly at wall while take-off has steep drop into the valley.
Due to all of these dangers, even slight poor weather causes flight cancellations, which are common. When we reached the airport it was clear weather and plane were operating, but previous 3 days no planes flew due to weather conditions, so that whole day the backlog was cleared postponing our travel.
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Day-2 : We spent the whole day there finger's crossed but no luck. We strolled around Manthali village, heard about Tamokshi river, asked the locals for direction and reached this peaceful place, the relaxed time sunset view made us smile away the delay mood.
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Day-3 : Luckily next morning we could fly early, the 20 min plane ride was picturistic.
We had our breakfast in Lukla hotel and prepared ourselves for the much awaited trek.
Passing through Lukla market we passed by many shops perfect for buying last minute gears.
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Day-3 : Lukla (2826 m) >>> Phakding (3643 m)
We entered through 'Phasang Lhamu Gate' known as starting point of the trek.
There is a document check-post for validating entry and received individual trek cards.
Today's trek was ~9 km.
Weather was good and with single layer clothing throughout the day.
Passed through lovely village's and cafe's, shaded path due to dense greenery, crossed first bridge from one peak to another. Lunch break and further walk we reached Phakding in evening. Weather was slightly chilly by now.
Sitting in warm tea house was going to be everday scene now.
Post relaxing, we played group games and sang songs until dinner time, had dinner and settled in room which consists of 2 beds with good warm bedding, washrooms and bathrooms are common.
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Day-4 :Phakding (2623 m) >>> Namche Bazar (3440 m)
Today's trek was ~12 km.
It was a long day ahead of us, tough terrain and ascend were indeed tiring.
Entered 'Sagarmatha National Park' another round of document check along with bagpacks.
It was a hot sun morning but post lunch the weather drastically changed and it started pouring. Mountain weather as heard. We wore our raincoats and were back on trail so as to reach before before sun-down.
We went over the well known Hillary Suspension Brigde, named after the legendary mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary. The bridge sways gently over the roaring Dudh Koshi River below, giving us a thrilling taste of the adventure that lies ahead.
We reach Namche Bazar and this beautiful Sherpa village greeted us with shimmering lights through its step layout all over the mountain.
After freshening and relaxing we strolled around this town discovering lovely cafe's and market lanes. Due to development, now you come across night club's, eat-out's and brand outlets like North Face.
Had dinner and got to rooms for much needed sleep.
Today was supposed to be our acclimatization day here but since our plane to Lukla got late by a day, we skipped the acclimatization day and trekked ahead.
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Day-5 : Namche Bazar (3440 m) >>> Tengboche (3876 m)
Today's trek was ~10 km.
What a day it was! We finally saw the Mighty Mt Everest, first view was very very special.
Standing at the view point, we saw the peaks of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kusum Kanguru. The world seemed so huge.
Walking ahead we reached Tengboche. It is reported that only five families permanently live in the Tengboche village. The Tengboche monastery has around 50 monks.
This place provides a grandstand beyond comparison for the finest mountain scenery ever seen.
In evening, we visited the Tengboche Monastery a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attended the recitation of prayers which was a blissful meditation and calmness during this journey.
We slept off early that night just to wake-up at 5 am and witness the amazing sunrise and golden peaks of Mt Everest and others. It was breath-taking sight indeed. The cold morning making us go back indoor and the sunrise sight wanting us to stay back little longer.
After breakfast and preparations, we headed to Dingboche.
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Day-6 : Tengboche (3876 m) >>> Dingboche (4410 m)
Today's trek was ~12 km.
It was a lovely trail through valley then ascend looking around those awe views.
Quite serious altitude gains had started and we were introduced to concept of 'Nepali flat'.
So, there are 2 sorts of terrain in Nepal, both difficult !!
Steps - go up or down a steep hill purely in Stairmaster Mode.
Nepali Flat - go up or down a moderately steep hill with no steps involved, just a dirt path.
Reached Dingboche, this rest point offers trekkers a chance to catch their breath, indulge in exhilarating adventures, and immerse themselves in the raw beauty of the Himalayas.
So, there are no 'rest days' on the EBC trek – they are actually 'acclimatization days' where you hike higher and sleep lower.
Another concept introduced : You go Hiking during a Trek!!
Day-7 : Next morning after breakfast, we got ready for our to hike to Nagarjuna peak (also read Nangkartshang Peak, or Nangkartshang Peak, or Nagarjoong, etc.) is a spectacular destination through a very difficult hike. This hike was around 600 m ascend which took 3 hours.
At this altitude, every uphill step takes a toll on your body.
By now, we all had the dust induced cough (“Khumbu Cough” as they say it on the trek) along with running nose due to the cold.
We came back late afternoon, had lunch at beautiful cafe.
Treated ourselves with much needed hot shower which wasn't possible daily, medical body wipes did the work.
Evening was total rest and reset in the warm tea room until dinner.
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Day-8 : Dingboche (4410 m) >>> Lobuche (4940 m)
Today's walk was ~ 10 km.
Going at higher elevation we witness changes in the landscape with less trees and progressively becoming barren. The trails are more rugged and less maintained. It's getting cold and windy. We all started using our extra layers, gloves, neck warmers, and beanies throughout the day.
We were about to enter two digit negative temperature zone.
Toughest ascend when low oxygen was felt, which led us to Thukla pass.
We stopped at the Everest memorial at Chukpi Lhara near the village of Pheriche.
Dotted with stone piles and plaques with prayer flags dedicated to the fallen climbers. More than 330 souls have lost life during Everest summit.
Felt a deep sense of emotions here, came across many known mountaineers and Sherpa's like Scott Fischer, Babu Chiri Sherpa and others.
After having our everyday lunch of 'Dal-Bhat' we headed towards Lobuche.
We shared our path with caravans of woolly yaks and horses.
When reaching Lobuche we got the news that many trekkers had to stay back due to bad health, so we have to allot some of our rooms to them and adjust within our limited ones.
It was the first time we all used sleeping bags as the blankets were less, some of us even slept in the dining room. As the night approched the chillness rolled in, probably -13°C as noted.
It was difficult to sleep in such conditions, experiencing everything together certainly made us believe why its known as challenging trek.
We had to have our energy regained and restored for the long day ahead tommorow.
Day-9 : Lobuche (4940 m) >>> Gorakshep (5164 m)
Going back to the start of this blog, Today was the day…
We began our final day of ascend peak morning.
By now, the altitude was becoming more challenging as the trail headed for the village of Gorakshep, a small temporary settlement and last stop of guest houses/lodges.
We reached Gorakshep around afternoon, had our lunch.
We then layered up in warmest gears. With limited carry like hydration bladder, medicine box and torch, headed off towards the pinnacle of our trek: the base camp itself.
Day-10 : Gorakshep (5164 m) >>> Everest Base Camp (5364 m)
The trail to EBC didn't seem difficult but was definitely challenging due to altitude, low oxygen, very low temperature, and rocky terrain. Every step here required 50 times the effort of the whole journey.
Our first glimpse of the yellow tents of base camp came as we rounded a spur in the valley. Our pace immediately quickened with excitement.
The irony of the whole trek is that the closer to Everest Base Camp you get, the less of Mt. Everest you actually get to see.
Finally, we are at the Mt. Everest Base Camp!
It’s moments like these that emotions flood in, and while you are ecstatic about the achievement you are also humbled by the experience.
I stood there on a rock admiring this magical place.
The summit of Everest – along with the distinct and unmistakable features of the surrounding massif – Lhotse, Nuptse, the West Shoulder and the South Col – appeared before us.
Hugs and whoops of delight filled the air.
Everytime I share this trek experience I tell more about the journey than being in this place. The base camp experience is very very personal and cannot be put in words. I think every soul reaching here has their own story to tell.
After staying there for aroung 45 mins, we headed back to Gorakshep.
Day-10 : Everest Base Camp (5364 m) >>> Gorakshep (5164 m)
The sunset that evening over snow-dusted mountains was utterly stunning, revealing yet another side of this magnificent part of the world. We paused a few times to look back and admire the views.
It was pitch dark on the way back, the mouth tube of hydration bladder had frozen, torches were ON, we were instructed not to wait for more than a minute on the trail as the chill would rolled-in the warm body, making if difficult to walk.
It was a quiet calm night at the stay, every soul absorbing and syncing the summit.
It’s day 11 of our trek to Everest Base Camp. We’ve been there. Now we just need to get back.
Sounds easy breezy until you remember you have came ~65 km in 7 days and you need to walk back those within 3 days.
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Day-11 : Gorakshep (5164 m) >>> Pangboche (3985 m)
We began our Everest base camp trek descent peak morning to reach within daylight dropping altitude at rate.
It was a gloriously clear and warm day and the views were the most sensational of the trip.
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Day-12 : Pangboche (3985 m) >>> Namche Bazar (3440 m)
Today was our second day heading down to the thicker air of lower elevations.
This morning the trail climbed to Tengboche, then descended to cross the river at lunch and back up the other side.
We got to see several mountain goats. The traverse back to Namche was filled with beautiful mountain vistas at every turn. We enjoyed the increased oxygen walking around Namche sipping coffee and munching pastries.
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Day-13 : Namche Bazar (3440 m) >>> Lukla (2826 m)
Today's descend was called the 'final difficult walk' with 1200 m descend with 600 m ascend!!
Also, full of emotions as we got the last glimpse of Mighty Everest.
Farewell Himalayas; you’ve been… intriguingly ambiguous.
Reaching back at the Lukla gate had us teary eyed.
Day-14 : Lukla >>> Ramechhap >>> Kathmandu
About 24 hours ago, we were seating in Lukla sharing our experiences throughout the trek and now we are back to hustle and bustle of Thamel. Walking on the Thamel street felt like my legs were mechanically moving without my involvement – very strange!
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Summary:
Everything we saw, ate had to be carried up the mountains on either an animal or by person. Consume wisely, avoid wasting.
We trekked in glorious sunshine, rain, and snow.
We brushed teeth n freshened up with ice cold water every single day, it would take minutes to get back finger sensation.
We chewed Diamox and antibiotics daily.
We purified and drank water, water, water.
We got breathless climbing, experienced trapped feel in sleeping bags.
We saw the real effects of AMS hitting us some or other way.
We experienced all sorts of emotions throughout these 15 days.
The first introduction session to the final briefing session, the trek seemed over but stories we would tell had just begun.
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No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.
-Bohemian Soul