Heading north out of the Barossa the landscape shifts from vineyards to vast fields of wheat and canola, sheep and dairy farms, and Victorian villages of stone buildings with lacy ironwork. When the topography grows hilly and you see vines again, you know you’ve arrived in Clare. You could describe Clare as the Sonoma to Barossa’s Napa . It’s quieter, more agricultural in feel, and the conditions—steeper, cooler—lend themselves to doing things at a smaller scale. This is Riesling country, probably the best place to taste the Australian way with the grape: bone-dry, flinty wines with notes of citrus or green apple and a strong acid backbone.