One afternoon I had a leisurely lunch at the beloved winery and restaurant Skillogalee. I sat on the terrace under the shade of an olive tree facing the vines as swallows and butterflies careened by, and after placing my order I went into the stone farmhouse. In a narrow room with a stone floor and blazing fire, the staff generously had me taste every wine on off er (a dozen!), and I selected one to drink with my meal. The experience felt simple and sweet and deeply hospitable and—although both the food and the wine were delicious—that was the magic of the place.