Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru)

Tripoto
11th May 2018

Link of Part 1.

Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-1. (Ahmedabad to Sonamarg)

So finally on 13/05/2018 at 1600, We were at Sonamarg.

We entered Sonamarg village.

Situated at an altitude of 2730 m, Sonamarg is a mesmerizing hill station in the Ganderbal district of Jammu and Kashmir. Sonamarg literally means ‘the meadow of gold’ and with snow-capped mountains set against a spectacular blue sky, it is as close to heaven as it can get. It is also the take-off station for the drive to Ladakh across Zojila.

Day 3

Sonamarg.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Indian Army Welcomed us.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

JKTDC, Sonamarg

Photo of Jammu Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation JKTDC Office, Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

JKTDC, Sonamarg

Photo of Jammu Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation JKTDC Office, Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Beautiful Sonamarg.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Playing with River.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Playing with River.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Playing with XUV.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Getting in Football Ground.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Approaching Army CP.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Sonmarg to Leh.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Enjoying Mountains. Yours Truly.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Not that Gentle.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Being Gentle.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Some Village.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

On Sonamarg -Leh highway.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Our ride.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Parking space at JKTDC, Sonamarg.

Photo of Jammu Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation JKTDC Office, Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

10 beds Dormitory at JKTDC.

Photo of Jammu Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation JKTDC Office, Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Sonamarg.

Photo of Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan
Day 4

Morning at JKTDC, Sonamarg.

Photo of Jammu Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation JKTDC Office, Sonamarg by Shreyas Macwan

Ice walls.

Photo of Baltal by Shreyas Macwan

Talking with Trucks.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

Checking the Ice.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

Having fun.

Photo of Baltal by Shreyas Macwan

Playing with Ice walls.

Photo of Baltal by Shreyas Macwan

It started Raining.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

To Zoji La.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

Rain Rain go Away.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

Come out.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

Join me.

Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Srinagar - Leh Highway, Karapura Pain, Kashmir Golf Course, Rainawari, Srinagar by Shreyas Macwan

One Last turn.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

A rare pic of all four in one Frame.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Zoji La pass.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Talking with Mountain.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Welcome to Zoji La.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Zoji La pass.

Photo of Zojila Pass, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Maggi and tea.

Photo of Zoji La, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Zoji La top.

Photo of Zojila Pass, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan
Day 5

That Famous Board.

Photo of Zojila Pass, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan

Zoji La top.

Photo of Zojila Pass, Forest Block by Shreyas Macwan
Day 4

Getting down from Zoji La.

Photo of Gumri by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Gumri by Shreyas Macwan

Entry done.

Photo of Cafe Gumri, Srinagar - Ladakh Road, Gumri by Shreyas Macwan

Let's go.

Photo of Cafe Gumri, Srinagar - Ladakh Road, Gumri by Shreyas Macwan

Taking rest

Photo of Matayen by Shreyas Macwan

Joy with the river.

Photo of Matayen by Shreyas Macwan

At Drass Village.

Photo of Dras by Shreyas Macwan

Approaching Drass.

Photo of Dras by Shreyas Macwan

Drass War Memorial

Photo of Kargil War Memorial, National Highway 1D by Shreyas Macwan

Drass War Memorial

Photo of Kargil War Memorial, National Highway 1D by Shreyas Macwan

Back in Game.

Photo of Kharbu by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Kharbu by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Kargil by Shreyas Macwan

A stop.

Photo of Kargil by Shreyas Macwan

Mutton Momo.

Photo of Kargil by Shreyas Macwan

Samosa.

Photo of Kargil by Shreyas Macwan

Brave Family.

Photo of Mulbekh by Shreyas Macwan

Statue of Maitreya Buddha.

Photo of Mulbekh by Shreyas Macwan

Praying wheel.

Photo of Mulbekh by Shreyas Macwan

The monastery at Mulbekh.

Photo of Mulbekh by Shreyas Macwan

With Yellow Board of Namika La.

Photo of Namika La by Shreyas Macwan

Our Ride.

Photo of Namika La by Shreyas Macwan

With Green Board of Namika La.

Photo of Namika La by Shreyas Macwan

Dilesh with Green Board.

Photo of Fotu La by Shreyas Macwan

Approaching Fotu LA.

Photo of Fotu La by Shreyas Macwan

It was 1600, we approached Lamayuru.

It was 14km away from Fotu La.

At Fotu La.

Photo of Fotu La by Shreyas Macwan
Photo of Fotu La by Shreyas Macwan

Approaching Lamayuru.

Photo of Fotu La by Shreyas Macwan

At Lamayuru.

Photo of Lamayuru by Shreyas Macwan

Search for a night stay.

Photo of Lamayuru by Shreyas Macwan

Greenland GuestHouse.

Photo of Lamayuru by Shreyas Macwan

Greenland GuestHouse.

Photo of Lamayuru by Shreyas Macwan

We booked dormitory stay at JKTDC, Sonamarg and paid in advance. We reached JKTDC resort and approached caretaker.

He asked 2500 more apart from 800(200/- per bed). As per him, our booking was for a dormitory stay which is situated 4 km far from Sonamarg and only reachable by a horse. I knew that caretaker was lying but we didn't have any other way to talk to him. I convinced him at 2000/ - extra, paid it and asked for a receipt. He denied giving any receipt. We checked in at Dormitory room which had total 10 beds and a dirty attached bathroom.

We checked in and finished our lunch.

We were tired but equally excited.

We just got out of our hotel and started exploring Sonamarg village.

While we were playing with the river, I found some plastic bottles and plastic wrappers in it. I got one polythene bag and collected the plastic scrape in it.

Cleaning the river

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

After Cleaning the river, we moved ahead. There was a beautiful ground.

We turned a slight right and entered in that ground. Some locals were playing football on that ground, some of the tourists were enjoying the mountains. We spent some time playing with our vehicle and clicking photographs.

My main reason for getting out and exploring Sonamarg was Army and Police CPs at Sonamarg.

I wanted to visit Army and Police CP at Sonamarg. I wanted to know, is there any timing restriction for approaching Zoji la in the morning.

We went to Army CP. Army guys informed us that they would allow vehicles to Zoji la pass after 0900. I requested them to allow us to cross at 0700.

They smiled and said... "thick hai, jaldi nikal jana" (ok, you can leave early).

We got oral permission to cross Sonamarg CP at 0700 next morning. I wrote down the name of the person who was going to be posted at Army CP.

We were about to get back and I got an idea, why not to have some taste of Sonamarg - Leh highway. We crossed that CP and drove for two more Kms.

At 1900, We reached JKTDC resort and got in our room. I got in the bed and slept. I don't remember we eat or not. A warm bed was calling us and we took the call.

Day 4 (14/05/2018): Sonamarg to Lamayuru

We sept like kids. It rained at night.

We woke up at 0630 and got ready to move. We were going to drive till Lamayuru Village, which was 225km. We had an entire day at our disposal. I was not thinking much about distance and time sheet. I knew we were going to stop at each an every glacier and have long photography sessions. Our only target was to reach Lamayuru before the night

We started from JKTDC at 0700. After half hour of a drive, we stopped at first glacier.

first Glacier.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

We played with those Ice walls, talked with some truck drivers and clicked hundred of photographs. I had a hard time to convince Dilesh, Vicky and joy that we "ll have many ice walls and glaciers on our upward journey.

We were approaching Zoji la.

We were 10km far from the Zoji La top and it started raining. Visibility was decreasing, it was tough to drive on those curvy roads with low visibility. However, we carried on.

Rain couldn't stop us.

We stopped at some more Ice walls. It was raining. However, I got out and asked others to join the fun. All of them got out and we had a riot of snowballs.

We were stopping at each and every ice walls.

We were having fun.

Our distance vs time sheet was lying somewhere in the luggage room(boot space) of the car. I took a mental note to reach as soon as at Zoji La top but not to compromise with our fun.

Some more Ice walls.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

And some more.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

It's my turn.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

Never Postpone Joy.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

Let's walk

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

We were approaching Zoji La.

After a while, we were on the block paved road. It meant we were at Zoji la top. We parked our XUV at one of the Maggi stalls and started playing with snow.

We started at 0700 without any breakfast or tea from Sonamarg.

We were hungry.

We ordered Maggi and tea at one of the Maggi stalls.

It was one of the tastiest Maggi of our life.

We finished our breakfast and rushed to Zoji La top board.

We stopped there and as per ritual clicked some photographs.

We got down from Zoji La.

Road was in bad shape, so we kept our camera aside and concentrated on driving. We reached Gumari check post. We registered ourselves and continued our onward journey.

We were excited. We crossed Zoji la, played with snow and had photo sessions.

I forgot my fever and heavy cough due to this excitement and activities. At Gumari CP, my cough and fever reappeared. We had to stop just after Gumari CP. Other guys went to have some fun with the river. I remained with the car for some rest.

We were approaching Drass.

I wanted to consult a doctor for my cough or at least a medical store to get some cough syrup.

We reached Drass. We didn't find any doctor or Medical store.

We reached Drass War Memorial.

I remembered the name of Commanding officer of Drass war Memorial. During my last trip, I had a brief conversation with CO Sir.

Some Extract from my Last trip's Travelogue.

We asked that Army Man what to do. He advised us to meet their CO (Commanding Officer). We approached their CO. CO was a nice cooperative person.

He advised us not to spend the night at Drass. He told us to keep driving, cross Zoji La and reach Sonmarg.

We told him...

“For that, we have to cross mighty Zoji La in pitch dark”.

He said...

“yes you’ll have to but that's the only way out. You can't cross Srinagar during the day. It is very risky”.

He insisted us to reach Sonamarg and wait for two or three hours and cross Srinagar after 2330. He also told us that things were not good even in Drass.

I approached CO Sir,

he immediately recognised me and said with a smile...

" kya Shreyas fir se aa gaya, nai?" (Shreyas, you came again?).

He remembered my name. He invited me into his cabin. He noticed my condition and called their medical personnel. The medical guy checked my throat and told me that I have a serious throat infection. He gave me some medicines and asked me to consult a proper doctor in Kargil or Leh.

I shared tea with CO Sir, thanked him and went to see Drass War Memorial.

Drass War Memorial

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

We left Drass War Memorial and kept moving.

Army medicine did a miracle on me. I was back in my original mood. We stopped again at some bridge and spent some amazing time.

We reached Kargil, crossed it and stopped for a while to have a bird-eye view of Kargil town.

It was 1400, all of us were starving. We didn't have anything with us to eat in our car. That was a mistake.

At the outskirts of Kargil, there was only one small dhaba kind of food joint. That dhaba had only two things available, mutton momos and Samosa. If we want proper food, we had to go back to Kargil. No...a Big No ! We ordered whatever was available and finished it.

On 14/05/2018 at 14.30, we were at Kargil.

I checked my distance vs time sheet. We were perfectly on time. As per our plan, we were going to stay for a night at Lamayuru, a small village on Srinagar Leh highway.

We were 102 km far from Lamayuru.

After our lunch of Momos and Samosa, we started again. We all were relaxed and refreshed. After a while, we reached Mulbekh village. Mulbekh is situated 45 km from Kargil and 260 km from Leh in Ladakh region. Mulbekh is famous for its two gompas and the nine-meter tall statue of Maitreya Buddha.

We stopped for a while at Maitreya Buddha statue and played/prayed at praying wheel. Personally, I found nothing impressive at Mulbekh. At Mulbekh, We spotted one brave cycling family.

We moved ahead from Mulbekh.

We started climbing up.

We were approaching one more pass named Namika la.

Within no time, we reached Namika La pass.

There was no getting down from Namika La.

We kept moving ahead. We were enjoying beautiful views and tarred road.

Getting down from Namik La.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

Humour.

Photo of Ladakh: Four Idiots & One XUV500: Part-2. (Sonamarg to Lamayuru) by Shreyas Macwan

We kept moving.

One more pass was waiting for us.

Fotu la is actually the highest point between Srinagar and Leh. However, Zoji La takes all the glamour and credit due to its strategic location.

At 1630, We reached Lamayuru.

Lamayuru is a small village in Ladakh, midway between Kargil and Leh on NH1-D, the Srinagar-Leh highway. Lamayuru is home to one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh, dating back to the 10th century. Local legend has it that the place was once a lake that dried up. The village has around 100 houses scattered around the Lamayuru Monastery.

We stopped at one of the crossings, parked our car, made two teams of two persons and started searching for a hotel/guesthouse/ homestay for our night stay. We were early, most of the stay options didn't even start functioning.

Finally, we found a decent guesthouse.

Greenland Guesthouse on the main road.

We got a nice deal, 1200/- per room (twin sharing) including dinner and breakfast. It means 600 per head. That was an excellent deal. We got running hot water and wifi, what else one needs?