The Great Houses or 'Bonedi Baris' of Bengal, which once housed the rich, British-influenced Indian gentry are an important but forgotten part of India's architectural history. These houses saw, in terms of architecture and design, the perfect syncretism of local sensibilities and English building nous, a style that V.S. Naipaul calls ‘Calcutta Corinthian’. These Zamindari destinations in Bengal are in fact, the only living proof of the once jubilance this region exhibited.
Amadpur, near Memari, in the Bardhaman District of West Bengal offers a peaceful getaway in the majestic ancestral home of the Chaudhuris. Though Amadpur is not a very well known tourist location in Bengal, it has a lot to offer.
In the late 1600s, the Chaudhuris settled in and around a small village in Bardhaman and established their Zamindari. Today, their property, spread across an area of 400 acres, consisting of a couple of mansions, lakes and several temples stand testimony to their glorious past.
Amadpur being a remote rural location does not have a large number of tourist accomodations, the only one suitable for an overnight stay being the Amadpur mansion itself.
The 'Boro Bari' or the Amadpur Baithakkhana is the residential wing of the mansion and hosts the visitors; it is characterized by high ceilings, expansive verandahs, four poster beds and antique furniture.
The 'Thakur Dalan' is an important component of most aristocratic households across Bengal. Adjacent to the Chaudhuri house is the 'Durga Dalan'- a public courtyard used for hosting various religious festivals, including Durga Puja. The celebrations pertaining to the Goddess' visit to her parental home is indeed one of the main attractions in Bonedi Baris across Bengal, and the Amadpur ancestral home is no exception.
There are four terracotta temples, claimed to be almost 500 years old, just outside the Boro Bari, within the palace grounds. Just like any other ancestral home, this house too has its own share of intriguing stories and myths, a lot of them surrounding these terracotta temples.
Among the other possessions of the Chaudhuris is a 'dighi' next to the palace, overlooking the temples and surrounded by mango orchards- a serene location, perfect for your evening retreat.
The Royal Cuisine
Amadpur Baithakkhana, being an age-old traditional home, secret recipes are naturally the root of the excellent food here. Authentic Bengali delicacies by the Chaudhuri family cook with five different thalis to choose from, will only enhance your stay in the palatial house.
Things to see in Amadpur
Apart from the heritage homestay, Amadpur has a number of attractions, among which, the Bagh Bari stands out. Once owned by the Mukherjees, this grand house is now a picture of neglect and is used for sheltering cattle. Visitors are not allowed inside the grounds, however, being accompanied by a local guide helped- a brief tête-à-tête with the caretakers, and we were let in without much hassle.
A pair of lions, caught mid roar, sculpted at the top of the pediment- decrepit, yet majestic against the pale evening light piqued our curiosity.
An interesting feature of the house is it's rainwater outlets- made of stone and ending in tiger-faced carvings, a detail easily missed. We would have loved to take a peek inside the main building, however the occupants firmly refused to allow us to venture beyond the grounds.
Amadpur is definitely the place for a perfect rustic experience. Photography enthusiasts will love walking around the village, with its 300 odd terracotta temples, heritage buildings, the ashrams and the lakes and orchards.
While most of Bengal's crumbling Zamindar baris are being turned into boutique hotels, the Amadpur Zamindari home has retained the essence of the past without falling into decay, owing to meticulous maintenance by the owners.
What's the best time to visit Amadpur?
In keeping with tradition, the Amadpur Zamindari palace celebrates Durga Puja followed by Kali Puja in the month of October. Kali Puja is celebrated in the most unique manner in Amadpur, the idol immersion ceremony being the main attraction during the month long celebration. The town is inhabited by four tribal communities who engage in the immersion ceremony with stick torches and tribal dances- something that you would definitely not want to miss.
How to reach Amadpur?
Amadpur is located 100 kilometres from Kolkata and can be reached both by road and train. One can take a Burdwan-bound local train from Howrah Station, and alight at the Memari station which is a 10 minute drive from the Chaudhuri House.