The pretty lake town of Rewalsar, in central Himachal's Mandi district, lies 142 km and 5 hrs-drive away from Shimla. Though I had explored a large part of this hill state during my 2-year long stint (2016-18) as a Research Fellow at the Indian Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, the lake town of Rewalsar, primarily a religious hub, had long escaped my interest. So it was only belatedly - toward the last few months of my tenure - that a group of us decided to visit Rewalsar. It was March (2018), and not yet warm in Rewalsar. In comparison to Shimla, Rewalsar, due to its somewhat lower altitude of 1360 m, has a higher average range of temperature.
Day 1
The highway to Rewalsar from Shimla goes via Totu/Tutu (on the outskirts of Shimla), Barmana and Sundernagar. You have to go off the highway on to a smaller road after Sundernagar, from where Rewalsar is at a distance of 25 km. You will begin to ascend from Sundernagar, climbing deep into the hills, until you enter the valley of Rewalsar. Set in a bowl-like depression amidst a cradle of hills, you get many early glimpses of the lake town from many points on the road as you descend into the valley; and the lake shimmers brightly in the sunlight, inviting you to its shores.
Rewalsar, also called Tso-Pema or 'lotus-lake' in Tibetan, is a legendary place in Tibetan Buddhism. One of Tibetan Buddhism's earliest masters, the 8th Century CE tantric teacher Padmasambhava (meaning 'born in a lotus'), is supposed to have undergone a trial by fire here. Sought to be burnt to death by the angry raja of Mandi for having taught his daughter the secrets of tantra, Padmasambhava caused the fire to be doused by a lake-full of water, from within which he emerged unscathed, seated on a lotus. Called Rinpoche, or guru, a second Buddha to the Tibetans, he now sits at one end of the lake in the form of a massive 37.5 m gilded statue. Built in 2012 and consecrated by the Dalai Lama, Padmasambhava surveys all before him, providing a towering reference point to the lake-town. Joining the monks in their meditative kora or circumambulation along the 735 m shoreline of the lake, I marveled at the myriad wonderful frames and moods to which the gigantic statue lent itself. There is a railing-lined pathway that allows you to walk gently around the mostly placid lake.
A good place to stay is the HPTDC hotel Tourist Inn. Conveniently somewhat secluded from the busy lake and market areas, it still gives you easy acess to them and has a good view of the lake. The tariff is about Rs. 2100-2500/- for a double room. There are however other hotels both closer to and further away from the lake, most of them inexpensive in comparison to the HPTDC hotel but also not so well appointed.
If you reach before it gets dark, you can just walk around the lake, and take in the sights and sounds of this rather atmospheric town of monasteries and temples. The chic Cafe Emaho, by the lakeside, offers a range of coffee and lip-smacking confectionery. The hotel has a restaurant which serves all meals but you might want to stroll along the lake-side market and sample Tibetan food in the small eateries dotting it.
Day 2
If the day is not very sunny, head out for the walk up to Naina Devi, a temple located about 4 km by road, high up in the hills that ring Rewalsar. But instead of walking or driving on the road, cut through the thicket on the slope, straight up from the Padmasambhava statue and the Buddhist temple behind it, and you will find yourself on a proper trekking trail!
This trail, and the road, will keep crisscrossing each other as the former goes straight up and the latter, in serpentine loops, in the same direction. If you want adventure and exertion, climb the rough path. If you want an easier journey, you could alternate between the road and the hill path. More than the temple area, which is very crowded, it is the trail that is enjoyable as it goes through quaint hamlets, terraced fields and pine forest. Wear good walking shoes, and carry a light sweater, a cap, an umbrella, a bottle of water and a snack.
There are 7 small lakes in this area but you will not find them on the trail. You need to follow the road instead. What one could do is to go up via the trail and come down by the road, that way one could have the thrill of a challenging climb as well as enjoy the serenity of the lakes. These lakes are named after the Pandavas of the epic Mahabharata who, according to local lore, wandered around in this area either after escaping from the burning of their palace or during their exile. In this lush green area, there are many possibilities for walking. There are also small home stays that rent out rooms at reasonable rates for those wanting, ironically, a quieter, meditative environment away from the Rewalsar town. As mentioned earlier, the temple area is crowded, but the view from there is gorgeous, as the mountains to the north create a horizon of snow-capped peaks in a 180 degree spread!
Day 3
You should keep one full day for the monasteries, temples and the lone, but important, gurudwara in Rerwalsar, for in a unique feat, this lake town is a pilgrimage for three religions: Buddhism, Hinduism and Sikkhism. For the believer of course, there is much to do, but even for someone like me, who is more interested in history and culture, there is a lot to explore in these places of worship. There are two main monasteries, the Nyingmapa Gompa and the Drikung Gompa, and both are worth a visit. The latter is located close to the lake, has a stately-looking main building which is colored a rare purple. It offers rooms to tourists and runs the Emaho Cafe.
The Nyingmapa Gompa, located higher on the same side, is brilliantly decorated.
Very close by is Gurudwara Rewalsar Sahib, built by the Raja of Mandi in the 1930s. This was done rather belatedly to commemorate the visit of Gobind Singh, the Sikh Guru, in the 17th Century, when he had traveled to Rewalsar to rally the hills kingdoms of this area to his side in his struggle against the Mughals.
Closer to the lake is the temple of the legendary sage Lomas/Lomash of the Purana tradition, who is supposed to have settled near the lake to partake of its peaceful and nurturing environment, and carry out his spiritual exercises. This temple is more modest but some of the smaller attendant shrines have interesting structures.
Day 4
We started back for Shimla on the fourth day after lunch. But like we did, you can spend the first part of the day lazing around in the main lake area, immersing yourself in the rhythms of this unique place, perhaps shopping for Tibetan curios that are sold by scores of shops in the vicinity.
Despite being a melange of religions and a popular pilgrimage for all of them, Rewalsar sits lightly on the visitor. Perhaps it is because of the unhurried, complementary spirituality of its people, something we can all learn from!
Useful Tips
Season: February-March (daily mean temp. 15-18 degree C), October-November (same)
Distance: 142 km from Shimla, 5-6 hrs; 428 km, 10-11 hrs
Mode of travel: Taxi from Shimla (Rs. 2500/- per day), HRT bus; Volvo AC bus from Delhi
Where to stay: Tourist Inn (HPTDC), approx. Rs. 2500/- double room; there are many other hotels also, and the monasteries and the gurudwara have accommodation too