What do I write about Ujjain? Everytime I close my eyes to think about Ujjain and the time spent there, it reinforces the special feeling my heart and mind have come to associate with this place. What do I say about "the Lord of Ujjain - Sri Mahakaleshwar"? No songs of glory can do justice. "The Lord of Ujjain is humbling and loving and mysterious all at the same time"
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I had been imagining about going to ujjain some five six months before the opportunity presented itself in the most auspicious way of Satsang with my favorite person in the entire world in the week of Shivratri. So we were all set to go.
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Ujjain City:
It is an ancient city on the banks of river Shipra which also finds mentions in Puranas by the names of Avanti, Ujjaiyani, Avantika. The city is bustling with cramped streets and thriving market places. People are always flowing in and out of this city like a constant undulation spinning together a story of an immortal faith.
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As you parade through the streets of Ujjain you'll see innumerable small souvenir shops juxtaposed together to present an inviting colorful picture of vendors selling trinkets, jewellery, idols and pooja samagri, dhoop and agarbatti made from recycled flowers from the temple, some selling balloons and some offering to paint your forehead with a chandan calligraph of Mahakal. And when parading around makes you hungry, every corner of Ujjain has ample eateries and small food joints where you can have anything ranging from the famous indori poha, kachori, gajar ka halwa, akhrot ka halwa, panipuri with five type of flavored water, rabdi, tikki chat, dal bafla, indori namkeen, marvadi thali, indori and north indian thali, dosa and various other small bites.
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When you look at Ujjain through its tapestry of social, cultural, religious and spiritual fabric from the eye of intuition, your heart will undoubtedly swell with reverence, hope, faith and love.
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Sri Mahakaleshwar Mandir and Bhasmarti:
This is ofcourse the primary reason for anyone visiting Ujjain. Sri Mahakaleshwar Mandir is one of the 12 jyotirlingas and is the only south facing jyotirlinga. South is considered as the direction of death. Lingam at Mahakal is a Swaymbhu (born of itself and derives shakti from within itself without any consecration). Sri Mahakaleshwar is known to be King of Ujjain and it is believed that no king/ minister/ high government official spends a night in Ujjain since Mahakaleshwar is the only King here. It is the only temple in the world where Bhasmarti takes place. In the older days, this was actual Bhasm brought from cremation grounds but these days Bhasm is made from the cow dung.
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Camera is not allowed inside the temple. Nonetheless, you'll remember the King of Ujjain not only as an image but a certain living force.
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Bhasmarti takes place everyday at 4.30 A.M. in the morning but the people start forming queues from 12.00 A.M. itself. It is advised to come early to get a good spot. The entire crowd is made to enter a waiting hall after 2.00 A.M. approx. The waiting area is made up of barricaded lanes like the ones that we see as entryways to temples. All the visitors are made to sit in between these barricaded lanes of entryway till the Bhasmarti starts at 4.00 A.M. Now, this is a testing time for some of us who let the impatience get the better of us. The immense crowd, a cramped up place to sit and being towards last in the queue may dampen some of our spirits as it did for me ( I was guilty of having the nitpicker in me come out at the long wait). But as soon as the gates open, the queue starts moving and you don't even come to know when are you pushed along with the crowd in to the mandapam from where you can watch the Bhasmarti. Nandi mandapam is the closest to Garbha Griha but it is mostly reserved for the VIPs and officials. Then there is Ganesh Mandapam and Kartikeya Mandapam. All these Mandapam are made in the form of staircase so that everyone can see. Although the middle seats are better since the corner seats won't get a direct view of Garbha Griha. We were at the Kartikeya Mandapam but we got a good seat at the middle from where Garbha Griha was directly in our line of vision. There are two large screens also where Bhasmarti from Garbha Griha is telecasted. Initially, the Pujaris will do the abhishek of the jyotirlinga with water and milk and other things. Then the Lord will be adorned with the sprinkling of Bhasm all over. As the Shringar takes place, the faceless and benevolent Shivlinga is transformed into a very powerful looking face of the King of Ujjain. To witness this transformation will humble you as it humbled me and the nitpicker will settle down and bow to the omnipresent energy of Sri Mahakaleshwar. The lights in Garbha Griha will be turned off and Mahakal will shine through the lights of Pooja Thali. A face you'll never forget - The face of Sri Mahakal. The sounds of damru and temple bell will waft through the entire atmosphere and you'll forget everything except the lord. All your pride will be swallowed by the face of Mahakal. You will not want the aarti to end but it'll end. Then you'll be headed out. You can then offer prayers in the numerous small temples in the parisar.
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The sound of 'Om' will constantly keep playing from inside the temple premise and be it day or night, the swarm of devotees will always be floating in queues to reach the altar of Mahakaleshwar temple
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All the information related to the history, Aarti, Darshan can be found on the official websites
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Other places to visit:
Gadhkalika temple: One of the most ancient temples dedicated to Goddess Kali; some say it dates back to the days of Mahabharat and some even say that the idol here dates back to Satyug.
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Kal Bhairav temple: Kal Bhairav is believed to be the guarding deity of Ujjain. There is a tradition of offering liquor to the lord here.
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Ram Ghat: This is the bank of river Shipra where Aarti takes place in the evening. The entire Ram Ghat area is beautifully illumined at night and conveniently located from Sri Mahakaleshwar and Mata Harsidhi temple.
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Mata Harsidhi Mandir: It is one of the 51 shaktipeeths where elbow of Mata Sati had fallen. There are two large pillar posts where lamps are lit during evening making the entire compound lit beautifully. There is Sri Yantra enshrined on the roof of the main temple. The temple is beautiful and very close to Sri Mahakaleshwar temple.
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Bada Ganesh temple: It is very close by to the Mahakaleshwar temple and houses a large idol of Ganesha.
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Bharat Mata temple: It is also near to Mahakaleshwar temple and dedicated to the nation as a mother.
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Bharitrihari Caves and Navnath temple: It is the place where the great yogi Bharitrihari did his Sadhna. Bharitrihari was also the brother of great king Vikramaditya. There is a temple dedicated to navnath. The place is very auspicious in itself since many yogis of nath sampradaya have been here.
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Sandipani Ashram: It is the place where Krishna and Sudama got their education. The place is beautiful with lovely greens surrounding the place.
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Mangalnath temple: This is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and the only temple where a sheep is the vehicle of lord. It is the place where Griharaj Mangal was born from the sweat of Lord Shiva according to legends.
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Gopal Mandir: It is also one of the beautiful temples dedicated to lord Krishna. We happened to partake the vibe of the morning Aarti just while going back to indore to catch the flight.
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All the above places can be easily visited by taking an auto.
Om jai Sri Mahakal🙏🏻
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