The history of commercial cultivation of apple in Himachal owes much to Samuel Evans Stokes, an American Quaker business scion who gave up his inheritance to become a social worker in India. Stokes came to India in the early years of the 20th century to work in a leper colony in the Shimla Hills. Drawn deeply towards Hindu spiritual traditions, Stokes took a new name, Satyananda, and settled down in Kotgarh in the Shimla Hills, 75 kms. from Shimla, the summer capital of the British Empire. In 1916, he began cultivation of the Louisiana apple in his farm at Kotgarh, setting in motion a transformation which has made this area into one of the country’s largest and most prosperous apple growing regions in the present day.
What must also have captured Stokes' attention and influenced him to settle down in Kotgarh, was the beauty of the land. During my two-year stay in Shimla in 2016-18 as a Fellow at the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, I traveled several times to the Kotgarh area for weekend trips with my friends and colleagues. Not only was this convenient for us because Kotgarh is only a short distance from Shimla city but, more importantly, this area also offered excellent opportunities for relaxation due to its pleasant climate, walking possibilities, and rolling apple and cherry farms. This blog attempts to put together a trip idea taken from my experience of traveling in this region. I have put the date as 2017 because these travels were done near about this time and because the format of the blog requires it.
A three-day weekend trip from Shimla to this area makes for an ideal getaway. The end of March or early April, when the maximum and minimum temperatures hover around 10 and 25 degrees C respectively, is one of the best seasons for a journey to Kotgarh. The stray snowfall of mid-March is safely out of the way by this time and the air is clear and refreshing for walks and light treks.
Day 1
Our first stop, and night halt, is Narkanda, 60 kms. and 2 hrs. drive from Shimla on the old Hindustan-Tibet Road. This route goes via Kufri, Theog and Matiana, all small, picturesque towns with their own trekking possibilities if one was to contemplate stopping over for the night in any of them. Beyond these towns, Narkanda marks the beginning of the apple country and is home to the glorious Hatu Peak (2300 m), one of the highest in the Shimla district.
The Hatu Hotel of the Himachal Tourism Development Corporation in Narkanda, tucked away from the main, dusty highway in a small cove on the hillside, provides comfortable boarding and lodging in the town. If one can reach Narkanda (2708 m) by lunch time and get settled into the hotel straightaway, the 8 kms. trek up to Hatu Peak is the best way to spend the afternoon. This trek is along a narrow motor road to Hatu, so one has to watch out for traffic and dust. A quieter, dust-free and more adventurous trek can be done along a forest path from one side of the mountain. In both cases, a dense jungle of deodars, and occasional oak and maple trees, takes you into its embrace as you walk on. The cry of Himalayan fowls and the sweet scent of the coniferous vegetation guides you steadily up towards the peak even as you get glimpses of the hills and valleys in the distance.
I once walked 3 kms. up the motor road with my friends when it was covered in snow in early March. The following are a few pictures from that trip.
In any case, remember to wear good walking or snow shoes as required, don a pullover, and carry water, an umbrella and a snack. If you are not a professional, walking in snow can be tricky. But in early April, the road is clear and very easy to walk on.
On top of Hatu, you get an almost 360 degrees view of the horizon around, with a ring of snow-capped mountains looming above the clouds in the north, west and east sides. The Hatu Devi temple, a partly wooden and partly cement-brick structure, is located on one side of the gently undulating top. On a clear day, strong, but not harsh, gusts of wind blowing around the peak fill you with freshness and energy.
The trek up the peak, though immensely satisfying, tires you out. Hotel Hatu, with its green, extensive front lawns, and pretty views of the Narkanda Valley, offers you a restful evening to unwind.
Day 2
The next day, you can head for Kotgarh (1888 m), proper Stokes territory, which is about 15 kms. away from Narkanda. From the road, you get splendid views of the apple and cherry orchards on the interlocking slopes of the hills around. You will see white patches dotting these orchards. These are nets, used by the fruit growers to protect their crop from hail.
On the way to Kotgarh, around 10 kms. from Narkanda, is the Tani-Jubbar Lake, a small, fenced, oval-shaped pond surrounded by tall, coniferous trees, with a Nag Devta temple at one end. Like a sparkling gem, appearing suddenly in the middle of the plantations in the hills, it adds an unexpected twist to the tale.
About 5/6 kms. ahead is the village of Kotgarh. A small, quaint town, with one street, Kotgarh and the orchards in the vicinity are best explored on foot. In fact you can walk all the way to Kotgarh from Tani-Jubbar, past small houses, apple and cherry trees and friendly mountain dogs. There are sometimes abrupt and heavy showers so be ready with an umbrella. The rain hurries away as quickly as it comes. Carry some packed lunch from the hotel and you can stop anywhere along the road and find your own little scenic picnic spot!
Kotgarh served as an army camp for the colonial government during the Anglo-Gurkha wars in the early nineteenth century. St. Mary's Church, a pretty, yellow colored structure in Kotgarh, from where you get great views of the snow-capped mountains, dates back to 1872. The Gorton Mission School adjacent is from around the same time.
After walking your fill in this green paradise, and perhaps having tea at a dhaba in the Kotgarh market, head towards Grandma Stokes' B&B in Shathala village, 11 kms. ahead, via Thanedhar. This lovely boutique B&B, run by members of the Stokes family, overlooks the valley of Satluj on the other side, and is the best hotel in the area. Beautifully appointed, and not very crowded, you get a genuinely warm welcome at Grandma Stokes'. You will need to book in advance though as there are very few rooms and it has now been, deservingly, well and truly discovered by the discerning traveler!
You can spend the evening lazing in the central lounge at Grandma Stokes', looking out at the valley, river, hills and mountains neatly arrayed in front of you as if on command. The glass exterior of the lounge facing the valley offers uninterrupted viewing pleasure!
Day 3
This is the day to get up leisurely, and spend at least an hour or two sipping tea in the comfortable central lounge of the hotel, soaking in the spectacular views from the french windows.
The people at the hotel will show you around their apple and cherry orchard below. If you visit when the crop is ready, you can pluck these fruits but remember there will be more inside, generously laid out for you. The hotel also sells locally made and daintily packed apple and cherry preserves and chutneys. They usually have these on display in the lounge but ask if you don't see them.
You can do a short walk to the Shathala village before you head back for Shimla in the late afternoon following tea at the hotel. If you decide to stay another day, and the temptation will be irresistible, you can do a proper trek down towards the river.
Enjoy the apple blossoms as much as you can at the hotel's orchard, and as you drive back to Shimla. The sights and scents of this beautiful land will be with you forever.
Useful information
Travel: Sedan taxi, on hire from Shimla, 2500/- a day
Hatu Hotel: Rates not available at this time but should be around 2500-3500/- per night, double
Grandma Stokes' B&B: 5000/- per night, double, boarding included
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