There lies a certain joy in being a traveller. A traveller undertakes journeys to steal experiences and gather stories. A traveller learns to expect the unexpected, fears not to tread unforeseen paths and overcomes challenges on the way with a smile on her lips and a willing heart.
Hence, when clouds burst over Sonmarg in Kashmir making travel impossible and weather conditions suggested it wouldn’t be safe to trek up the Himalayas, I heaved my bag and myself on to a goods carrier and took off to explore the ‘real’ Kashmir that lies beyond its touristy façade.
Day One: Sonmarg to Nichnai
My first stop was a green meadow overlooking Sonmarg valley. I realised that the only way ahead was going to be up the mountains.
The next stop was my campsite for the night.
Day Two: Nichnai to Vishnusar Campsite
First morning in the mountains, it dawned upon me that for the next few days I would wake up in the lap of the mountains, each night spent at a different campsite.
I crossed the treacherous Nichnai Pass, walking at the edge of a mountain that had no path for humans to pass. I walked through meadows accompanied by shepherds and their grazing sheep.
Snow fields and melting glaciers greeted me as I left the green hills and valley behind.
The Vishnusar campsite completely bowled me over. The last rays of the sun breathed some warmth before it set behind the mountains.
Day Three: Vishnusar towards Gadsar
Waking up, I thought, “I could get used to this!”
The twin lakes of Vishnusar and Kishansar shone like a mirror in the early morning light.
I then began my climb up the extremely narrow and steep mountain path towards Gadsar Pass.
The other side of the pass was snowy white. To make the descent faster, I didn’t run; I plonked my backside on the freezing snow and glided down.
The sun had set on the campsite. The tall mountains surrounding the modest campsite had curtained the last of the sun’s rays. Campsites on high mountains are bereft of humans. There is only the abundant presence of animals, of the wild forces of nature, of green, white and brown.
Day Four: To Gadsar Lake
Treading past valley of flowers, I felt rejuvenated. The entire mountainside was covered in a green blanket and finely dotted with flowers. An abundance of tiny lakes and mountain streams greeted me from time to time.
A fog-covered campsite came to sight that evening. It meant that I wouldn’t be able to trek to the much-acclaimed Gadsar Lake that evening.
But the gods were merciful; the dark clouds dispersed for just about enough time for me to live this once-in-a-lifetime moment next to one of the most mesmerising, magical lakes of Kashmir.
Day Five: Towards Gangbal and Nandkol Lakes
I began the day navigating through boulders.
I reached gentle green hills with a valley in between whispering to me that the tall snow-clad mountains had said goodbye.
I stood on the Jaj pass from where the descent would begin. Clouds floated above me, teasing me with glimpses of the Gangbal and Nandkol lakes below and Mount Harmukh in front of me.
Day Six: To Naranag and End of Trek
On the climb down towards Naranag, I passed by towering trees, their shade and beauty taking away some of the melancholy I felt in my heart.
An open valley and view of the mountains put that smile back on my lips. I knew I was going to miss the snow-clad beasts till I returned.
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