Has planning for your dream Ladakh road trip left you confused? Here’s a guide to help you

Winter: October to March

October marks the beginning of winter, the temperature scale dips to negative and accommodation options become slim. Both, the Manali-Leh and Srinagar-Leh highways close by November. Ladakh is only accessible by air. Trekking is the best way to explore Ladakh in winter (Chadar trek anyone?). Winter is also the best time for people who want to see the snow leopards as they descend in search of food.

What’s the ideal duration?

You need to spend anywhere between 6-8 days in Ladakh to ensure the trip is not rushed and have an immersive experience. Anything more is a bonus, provided you can afford to. This however doesn’t include to & fro Ladakh. Goes without saying if you are on road trip, you need additional 4-6 days depending on where you start your trip from.

I had done a full ‘circuit’ entering via Srinagar route and exiting via Manali with my start & end point being Delhi. This took me 16 days including the travel between Bangalore and Delhi.

Which Route is the best?

Honestly, there are a dozen routes to follow. The route you finally decide upon is dependent on the time you can afford. So instead, I have listed below the top three that most people would end up choosing from, on a road trip. Again, you can always modify each of them to suit your preferences.

Route 1: Manali – Leh – Manali

This is the most widely taken route by bikers and others on a road trip to Leh. Almost all of these include people who rent motorcycles/taxis in Manali.

Route Map

Manali – Sarchu – Leh – Nubra – Thang – Nubra – Panamik – Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh – Tso Moriri – Sarchu – Manali

You can obviously modify this to your liking. You could directly travel to Pangong from Panamik and skip Leh. Probably, you may not even visit Panamik and instead head to Pangong from Nubra directly, which is something I did.

Route 2: Delhi – Leh – Delhi (Full circuit)

This is the route I took and is famous amongst people who ride to Ladakh on their own motorcycles.

Route Map

Delhi – Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil – Leh – Nubra – Thang – Nubra – Panamik – Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh – Tso Moriri – Sarchu – Manali – Shimla – Delhi

Route 3: Delhi – Leh – Delhi (via Srinagar)

Route Map

Delhi – Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil – Leh – Nubra – Thang – Nubra – Panamik – Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh – Tso Moriri – Leh – Kargil – Srinagar – Delhi

This route makes more sense in May and early June when the Manali-Leh highway is closed.

I have shared a Ladakh route map below, which helped me a lot and hope it helps you as well.

Caution

I feel this is important to call out right away that some of the routes mentioned above can be tricky on a motorcycle, especially solo.

Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri (via Chushul-Nyoma)

This is a completely deserted stretch of gravel until you reach Mahe village, 40km off Tso Moriri which is when you encounter the first hint of an actual road. There is little in way of civilization or tourists across the entire route barring a few villages and it can be extremely risky if you or your motorcycle encountered a problem. This could be scary if you aren’t used to solo rides and I would recommend going via Leh if you plan to visit Tso Moriri as well (which you must).

Manali – Sarchu

This route is home to the two worst passes you would encounter on your trip: Rohtang La and Baralacha La. Both of them are notorious for being highly unpredictable. It could get tricky if you are alone with the sheer number of river crossings on the route. However, tourists are a plenty and there’s little to worry. I myself had encountered a problem here and was fortunate enough to find fellow bikers spring to my help.

Do we need any permits?

Considering the proximity of Ladakh to both the LOC and LAC, it is required to have a permit to travel anywhere within the region. However, the process of applying for permit is fairly straightforward and is possible online. Indians need to apply for ILP (Inner Line Permit) while foreign nationals need to apply for PAP (Protected Area Permit). There is no separate permit needed for your motorcycle/car.

You don’t need any permit for traveling on Manali – Leh highway or Srinagar – Leh highway as well as Zanskar valley.The permits can be applied and paid for online at Leh administration’s official website: www.lahdclehpermit.in

However, you still need to get a stamp on the permits at the Leh DC office. The DC office is closed on Sundays, so you plan your visit to Leh accordingly. The official timings are between 10am and 5pm and it’s best to visit early morning if you want the permit on the same day.

Couple of important points:

1. You need photocopies of your Identity proofs. Aadhar, PAN and driving license are the best options. Keep 5 copies of each with you, better if attested

2. Identity proofs are required for each person applying for the permit, if applying in a group. It’s best to apply individually, although you can submit the forms as a group

3. It’s not mandatory for the applicant to be present while applying for the permit, as long as you have already provided signed forms. Hotels in Leh provide a service to apply on your behalf (I had opted for it, where my hotel manager got me the permits)

4. Besides permit application form, you may need to write an application letter addressing DC of Leh – Ladakh district for the approval of your permits

5. Take about 10 photocopies of the stamped approved permit. You are needed to submit one copy at each of the check posts you would encounter on your tip

6. The ILP is valid for 3 weeks whereas the PAP is valid for 1 week. There is no limit on the number of times you can enter a certain region during the validity period.

Hanle & Chushul

You need to apply for permit specifically if you want to visit Hanle beyond Loma check post. The same is applicable for traveling from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly via Chushul. This route passes through the villages of Man & Merak. Both these permits can only be applied for in person. Your permit would have an additional stamp for each of these routes.

Marsimik La

What if I told you that Khardunga La isn’t the highest motorable road? It’s not even 2nd on the list. That spot goes to Marsimik La. It is about 20km from Pangong Tso and you need to head to Phobrang village to climb up the pass. Permit needs to be obtained separately at the Leh DC office.

Umling La

This is the highest motorable pass in the world at a height of 19300 feet above the sea level. You don’t need a special permit to access this but definitely need a permit for Hanle. You can either enter from Photi La or Ukdungle. However, civilians are not allowed to descend Umling La on the other end towards the Demchok village.

How much would the trip cost?

Budget is one of the most important factors in a trip planning. A lot of people assume a tour of Ladakh would be expensive, but it hardly is unless you a book one of the luxury family packages.

The trip cost primarily depends on the following factors:

1. Mode of transport

2. No of days

3. Type of accommodation

Before I dwell into the numbers, I have listed the assumptions I made and some other points to consider which directly impact the calculations:

1. Trip duration of 10 days with the Manali – Leh – Manali route

2. Travel cost is calculated per vehicle

3. Budget accommodation is considered and the cost is per room

Note:

1. A motorcycle/car/taxi rented outside of Ladakh is not allowed within Ladakh except Leh

a. Avoid renting a car/motorcycle in Delhi as much as possible

b. A taxi/motorcycle rented in Manali is only permitted till Leh. You would need to rent another in Leh for sightseeing in Ladakh

The best way to do a motorcycle trip in Ladakh is either on your own motorcycle or renting one directly in Leh. I have provided the taxi rental costs from Leh as well below.

What about accommodation?

Irrespective of your choice of accommodation type, there are now a dozen apps available that help you book. That’s no different when it comes to Leh, Kargil and Hunder/Diskit.

The challenge arises when you want to stay in the more remote locations like Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Hanle, Sarchu etc. There are a couple of luxury accommodation options available at each of these locations which you could book online but I would recommend staying in homestays.

These homestays are operated by locals, often as a side-business to help earn some extra income. The hospitality shown is unparalleled and the food will remind you of your Mom’s home cooked dishes. I stayed in homestays in both Korzok (Tso Moriri) and Merak (Pangong Tso) and my experience was amazing. I was provided with a cozy room at a rate of INR 1000 including meals. If you are traveling solo or in a group of 4-5, homestays work out well. For bigger groups, you would rather stay in the luxury tents and they offer group discounts as well.

Note that there is no online booking available for the homestays. You need to operate the traditional way.

Coming to Kargil, Leh & Hunder, although online booking is fairly easy, I have provided a contact below. He operates hotels & guest houses in Ladakh and I stayed in his properties in all the 3 mentioned places. He even helped me get the permits in Leh.

Mr. Atul Jaiswal : +919855085962

Which motorcycle is the best for a Ladakh trip?

Considering the challenging road conditions in Ladakh: Light, powerful, easy to handle, good ground clearance, tank range and tubeless tyres; Also, a motorcycle that needs no maintenance is better than the one that’s easy to service but more prone to breakdown, considering there are barely any mechanic shops aside in Leh & Hunder.

However most of the rental services in Ladakh, Manali and Srinagar mainly offer Royal Enfields that tick barely any of the above boxes. So it all comes down to careful inspection of the motorcycles before renting them. Following are a couple of points to remember before renting one:

1. Avoid booking a motorcycle in advance unless it’s the peak season of June

2. Test ride the motorcycle before renting it

3. Pay specific attention to the engine sound and overall balance

4. Always prefer a motorcycle with a smaller number on the Odometer

5. Check the condition of the chain & sprocket to see if its worn out or rusted

6. Check the condition of tyres. You don’t want to ride in Ladakh on worn out tyres

7. Check the starting condition of the motorcycle. Be it electric or kick start, the engine should start roaring in two attempts at the maximum

8. Check the engine for any signs of oil leakage

9. Check the suspensions for any potential damage. A suspension failure is a sure-shot end to your journey

10. Check if all the electricals are working fine (headlight, taillights, turn indicators, horn, dashboard)

11. Check the condition of brake pads if the motorcycle has disc brakes. Else you would need to make a judgement based on your test ride

12. If there are options aside the Royal Enfields, give them a preference. I was riding my Duke 390 and had absolutely no issues with it throughout, but my friends ended up having a nightmare of a trip on their rented REs

13. Check the terms and conditions of the rental agreement before you sign it. A lot of rental agencies would try to charge you for a motorcycle failure, by confiscating the deposit amount (yes, there is one!)

14. Do not deposit the original of your Aadhar or any other ID at the agency even if they insist. Photocopies are legally acceptable

A trip to Ladakh is always more fun on your motorcycle or vehicle considering you fully know and understand your machine. If you own one, just ride it even if it means an additional hassle of transporting it. Overall, it’s still cheaper than renting a motorcycle.

If you are planning on renting a car, please avoid it. It’s incredibly expensive and not worth it considering you wouldn’t even be allowed to drive it in Ladakh. I would highly recommend directly flying to Leh and hire a tax instead.

What should I carry along?

I have shared a sheet below that lists all the items that you would need to carry on a motorcycle road trip to Ladakh. A lot of items would stay common even if you aren’t riding/driving yourself.

Stuff to carry

One major tip especially if you are on a motorcycle is keeping the luggage to a minimum. Only carry the absolute essentials and pack your clothes as if you are going on a 3 day trip. The roads in Ladakh are challenging and you don’t want to be bogged down by the luggage.

How’s the mobile network in Ladakh?

Network strength in Ladakh is extremely poor. Aside Leh and Hunder, you would be as lucky as seeing a unicorn to find network. Also, BSNL postpaid is the best option. Airtel may work, but the reliability is questionable. Activation of BSNL sim takes about 2 days, so plan your buy accordingly.

How to prepare your motorcycle for the trip?

A trip to Ladakh puts a lot of stress on the motorcycle, so you need to prepare it thoroughly before the trip. You will have to pay attention to every detail or risk your motorcycle breaking down in the middle of nowhere.

Service

Get your motorcycle serviced at a trusted mechanic. Check if any component feels dicey and get it replaced straightaway. Components you need to get thoroughly checked:

1. Throttle & Clutch cable

2. Brake pads

3. Tyres

4. Wheel alignment

5. Engine & Brake oil

6. Chain & Sprocket

7. Electricals

8. Suspensions

9. Clutch plate

Luggage rack

I recommend installing a rack for carrying your luggage. Moreover, you would need extra fuel/jerry cans which could be mounted to the rack as well. You can check my motorcycle photographs to get an idea on how to go about it.

One important tip is to learn how to mend a punctured tyre. One of the most common issues that riders face is punctured tyres and it helps to know to sort one out, especially with tubeless tyres.

How to transport your motorcycle?

This is valid if you plan on riding from Delhi. Best way to transport your motorcycle is via Indian Railways. Although there are private agencies that offer road transport options, they are expensive and there’s no guarantee on the transport duration.

There are two ways of transporting your motorcycle via railways:

1. Luggage: If you are traveling in a train between Delhi and your home city, you can carry the motorcycle in the same train as luggage. You will receive your motorcycle when you reach your destination.

2. Parcel: If you are traveling via air, you can transport your motorcycle as parcel. The only disadvantage is you would need to ‘pack & submit’ your motorcycle well in advance (about a week before the trip start) to ensure it’s already at the destination (Delhi) by the time you reach.

For more details, you can read the following article.

Note: Parcel booking isn’t available from Delhi, for the return journey. You can only transport your motorcycle as luggage if you are traveling in the same train.

How to deal with Mountain sickness?

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is one of the conditions a lot of people suffer during a trip to any high altitude region. The information I present here is purely from experience and common knowledge. I would highly recommend consulting a Doctor for detailed information.

AMS by itself is not a very serious condition and is very common. Some of the symptoms include headache, fever, dizziness, fatigue, loss of apetite, vomiting, shortness of breath and difficulty in breathing. It is caused by a dip in the oxygen level at higher altitudes. Usually, our body needs a couple of days to acclimatize to the altitude but it varies from person to person. A sudden change in altitude can induce AMS, like climbing up Khardung La. However, a lot of times even the modest 10,000ft altitude of Leh is enough for most people. So, what are the ways to deal with AMS?

1. Acclimatization: Allow your body enough days to get used to the altitude. When you reach Leh, stay there for 2 days before heading to the next destination

2. Slow altitude gain: The biggest cause of AMS is sudden gain of altitude in a short time. If you are riding from Manali, it is advisable to take an overnight halt in Jispa before continuing towards Leh. I wouldn’t recommend traveling till Sarchu considering you need to pass Baralacha La first, which could very easily induce AMS.

If you are on a circuit trip, best start your journey from Srinagar side, as being the longer route, the height gain is gradual

3. Habits: Avoid smoking and drinking as much as possible. Also ensure you don’t sleep during the day. If you feel the symptoms of AMS kicking in when you reach a certain place, don’t continue forward. It would be best to even roll back to a more comfortable altitude rather than spending the night at a location where you felt the symptoms the first time

4. Exercise: Avoid exercise or any other kind of exertion unless you are confident you have acclimatized completely

5. Medicines: Diamox is commonly used in the treatment or prevention of AMS. It is usually recommended to start a dose 1-2 days in advance before reaching a certain altitude. It’s not very effective if you already have started seeing symptoms of AMS. However, CONSULT A DOCTOR BEFORE FOR DOSE RECOMMENDATIONS BEFORE THE TRIP

Caution

1. If you suffer from any heart or breathing condition, kindly consult your doctor before planning the trip

2. Avoid traveling with kids, especially if they are below 5 years old. Ladakh is a region with highly unpredictable weather. This means if lady luck isn’t on your side, you could be stranded at a high altitude region for hours or worse, days. An adult may be able to survive it with, kids may not. During my trip, us tourists were stranded at Khardung La for 6 hours due to landslides. One boy, presumably 6-8 years old ended up getting critical and had to be ventilated owing to prolonged scarcity of oxygen. Be selfish and leave your kids home

3. If you are travelling with an elder, again consult with your doctor to check if it’s safe for them.

Responsible Travel

Ladakh is a region with a very fragile ecology and the sudden burst of tourists over the last decade is slowly destroying it. Take a look at this beautiful article by Shivya Nath that mirrors many of my thoughts on this topic.

https://the-shooting-star.com/simple-ways-to-travel-more-responsibly-in-ladakh/

Also, I would plead you to avoid planning you travel during winter. It’s the only time the region gets to heal from tourists. Kindly let it…

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Finally, we reach the end of the article. You might be overwhelmed at the amount of preparation and planning that goes into a trip to Ladakh. However, trust me when I say that it’s worth it. It’s a one of a kind experience and you will end up with memories for a lifetime. Irrespective of what your goals to visit Ladakh are, it would never disappoint. If you have any doubts or worries, don’t push them aside. Clear them out and embark on your journey.

Godspeed!

You can read about my trip experience on this blog.