KASHMIR
Kashmir mein ab hamara teesra din tha aur aaj hum Gulmarg jaa rahe the. Gulmarg ke baare mein jitna suna tha sab satya hone jaa raha tha. Jaise jaise Gulmarg paas aata jaa raha tha thand aur khoobsurti dono badhti jaa rahi thin. Gulmarg mein gondola chalte hain. Hum pahla gondola le seedhe pahunche phase I yani Kongdori. Gondola ka safar bahut khoobsurat tha. Chaaron taraf baraf, kuch chote chote ghar, man kar raha tha ye safar kabhi khatam hi na ho. Vahan bahut saari activities thi. Ek ek karke lagbhag sabhi mein haath aajmaye. Sledging ka apna maza hai aur skying ka apna. Halanki skying kabhi seekhi nahin hai pr fr thodi bahut unhone hi sikha di. Ab man banaya hai seekhne ka. Snow scooter vagarh karke jab thak gaye to khane baith gaye. Itni baraf mein maggi ka maza chaar guna ho jaata hai. Ek to khoobsurati aur itna maza, ye jagah dil aur dimag mein ghar kar gai thi. Parantu surprise to abhi baki tha. Jab phase II ka gondola leke Apharwat parwat pahunche to aankhe stabdh rah gain. Dimag jaise sunn pad gaya. Main tab bhi nishabd tha aur ab bhi nishabd hun. us khoobsurati ko likh paana mere liye asambhav hai. Mere paas uske liye koi bhi rupantar nahin hai. Ya ye kahun ki mere paas khoobsurati ki charam seema ke liye ab ek naya roopantar ho gaya tha- Apharwat parwat.
Kashmir- ye shabd sunte hi dimag mein kitne saare vichar aa jaate hain, Bharat-Pakistan se leke atankvaad tak, raajniti se leke algavvaad tak sab man mein chalne lagta hai, lekin sabse pahla vichar jo man mein aata hai vo hai “JANNAT”.
Akhtar shirani kehte hain-
Jannat ki goya tasveer dekho
Tasveer kaisi Kashmir dekho
To is baar sair karni thi isi Jannat ki aur saath tha parivaar ka. Holi se agle din hi Delhi se Srinagar ki flight pakdi aur dopahar tak Srinagar pahunch gaye. BSF ke guest house mein rukne ka intzaam kia tha. Vahan pahunch kar thoda araam kia aur nikal gaye Srinagar ghoomne.
Sabse pahle, sabse khoobsurat Srinagar ka mashhoor Tulip garden gaye. Garden bas ek din pahle hi khula tha. Alag alag rang ke tulips ne jaise sama baandh rakha tha. Aisa laga jaise saari duniya ek taraf aur ye khoobsurat phool ek taraf. Bharat vyas ka likha ek bahut purana gaana yaad aa gaya.
Ye kaun chitrakar hai, ye kaun chitrakar hai
Hari Bhari vasundhra par neela neela ye gagan
ki jispe baadlon ki palki uda raha pawan
dishayen dekho rang bhari, chamak rahi umang bhari
ye kisne phool phool pe kia shringar hai
Ye kaun chitrakar hai, ye kaun chitrakar hai
Kaafi der vahan ghoomne ke baad, Pari Mahal ke liye nikle. Mughal Raja Dara Shikoh ke liye banaya gaya ye mahal, behad khoobsurat raha hoga. Mahal se poori Dal lake dikhai deti hai. Shaam ki thandi hawa aur adbhut drishyon ke beech BSF vaalon ne vahan garam garam coffee ka bhi intzaam kar diya. Srinagar ke khoobsurat Golf Course bhi yahan se poora dikhai deta hai. Thodi der vahan baithne ke baad chashm-e-shahi pahunche. Ye ek baag hai jisme shuddh paani ka jharna behta hai. Kahte hain Shah Jahan dwara Dara Shikoh ke liye banaya gaye is jharne ka paani Bharat ke Pratham pradhanmantri Shri Jawahar Lal Nehru ke liye bhi jaaya karta tha.
Suryaast ka samay hone laga tha aur Kashmir aa kar agar Dal Lake mein shikare mein ghoomte huye surya ast nahin dekha to kya dekha. Dal Lake yani paani mein basi ek alag hi duniya. Koi aisi cheez shayad hi ho jo vahan basi nahin hai. Logon ke rahne ke liye ghar hain, khareedari ke liye meena bazaar hai, sabziyon ki kheti hai aur Nehru Park bhi hai. Humne shikare se hi sab ghooma. Paneer tikka bhi khaya aur Kashmir ka mashhoor Kahwa bhi piya. Surya ast hone ke pashchaat hum vapis guest house aa gaye.
Doosra din bhi Srinagar ki khoobsurti ke liye hi rakha tha. Sabse pahle Shankracharya mandir pahunche. Mandir tak pahunchne ke liye lagbhag 250 seedhi hain, pr oopar pahunch ke ek ajeeb si shaanti ka anubhav hota hai. Bhagwan Shiv ko samarpit is mandir mein kabhi Shri Adi shankracharya Ji padhare the, tabhi se ye Shankracharya mandir ke naam se jaana jaata hai. Yahan se bhi poora Srinagar dikkh raha tha, aur BSF vaalon ne kaafi swadisht kahwa bhi pilwaya tha. Vahan se Srinagar ka mashhoor Nishat Bagh dekhne gaye. Vibhinn prakar ke pedon, fuulon, jharno se sushobit ye bagh dekhte hi banta hai. Kaafi der tak vahan tehlate rahe, kahin bilkul safed ped to kahin bilkul gulabi, qudrat ne saare gul jaise isi gulistaan mein laake bikher diye hon. Dopahar ka khana khaya aur seedhe pahunche Hazratbal Dargah. Is Dargah mein Hazrat Muhammad sahab ka moi-e-muqqaddas, ek baal maujood hai isiliye ise doosra Mecca bhi kaha jaata hai. Pavitra baal ke darshan to saal mein kuch hi din hote hain so humne us paak jagah ke darshan kiye aur vahan se Shalimar Bagh ke liye nikal gaye. Ye bag bhi atyant khoobsurat tha. Shaam dhalne lagi thi isliye vahan se jald hi dobara Dal lake ke liye nikle. Iss baar lake BSF ke steamers mein ghoomi. Sabse pahle lake ke beech mein maujood 4 cheenar ke ped dekhe aur fr kaafi der tak lake mein hi ghoomte rahe. Guest house aakar araam kiya.
Kashmir mein ab hamara teesra din tha aur aaj hum Gulmarg jaa rahe the. Gulmarg ke baare mein jitna suna tha sab satya hone jaa raha tha. Jaise jaise Gulmarg paas aata jaa raha tha thand aur khoobsurti dono badhti jaa rahi thin. Gulmarg mein gondola chalte hain. Hum pahla gondola le seedhe pahunche phase I yani Kongdori. Gondola ka safar bahut khoobsurat tha. Chaaron taraf baraf, kuch chote chote ghar, man kar raha tha ye safar kabhi khatam hi na ho. Vahan bahut saari activities thi. Ek ek karke lagbhag sabhi mein haath aajmaye. Sledging ka apna maza hai aur skying ka apna. Halanki skying kabhi seekhi nahin hai pr fr thodi bahut unhone hi sikha di. Ab man banaya hai seekhne ka. Snow scooter vagarh karke jab thak gaye to khane baith gaye. Itni baraf mein maggi ka maza chaar guna ho jaata hai. Ek to khoobsurati aur itna maza, ye jagah dil aur dimag mein ghar kar gai thi. Parantu surprise to abhi baki tha. Jab phase II ka gondola leke Apharwat parwat pahunche to aankhe stabdh rah gain. Dimag jaise sunn pad gaya. Main tab bhi nishabd tha aur ab bhi nishabd hun. us khoobsurati ko likh paana mere liye asambhav hai. Mere paas uske liye koi bhi rupantar nahin hai. Ya ye kahun ki mere paas khoobsurati ki charam seema ke liye ab ek naya roopantar ho gaya tha- Apharwat parwat.
Kisi ka sher hai na
Agar Firdaus bar-ru-e-zamin ast
hamin ast o hamin ast o hamin ast
Ye sach sabit ho raha tha. Zindagi vahin thaher gai thi. Kuch der aise hi baitha raha. Maine suna tha vahan se kuch door ki trek ke baad alpathar lake hai pr vahan jaane ka rasta abhi band tha. Gondola band hone ka samay ho gaya tha, to vahan awaaz lagi to aisa laga jaise kisi sapne se abhi abhi utha hun. Neeche aakar kuch karne ka man hi nahin hua. Seedhe guest house mein aa kar late gaya. Vo sundarta mere andar abhi tak samaay jaa rahi thi. Kuch der araam karne ke baad hum fr Gulmarg ghoomne nikal gaye. Vahan ek bada sa maidan tha poora barf se dhaka, jaise jaise sooraj dhalne laga aur Aakash rang badalne laga vaise vaise vo maidan aur khoobsurat hota jaa raha tha. Beech beech mein paani ke jaise talab se hon. Jab suraj poori tarah raat mein kho gaya to vahan se bazaar ghoomne chale gaye.
Agle din kuch shooting points dekhe, lunch kia aur vaapis Srinagar ke liye nikal gaye. Raaste se hi ek detour liya Wular lake ke liye. Wular lake yani Asia ki doosri sabse badi fresh water lake. Kaafi lambi lake hone ke karan usi ke saath saath chalte rahe. Ek park bana hua tha jahan baith kar lake dekhi. Itni shaant lake dekh ke sher hua ki
Teri aankho se seekha hoga isne shaant rehna bhi
Teri Zulfon se seekha hoga dheere dheere behna bhi.
Vahan se paas hi humare driver ka ghar tha. Usne zid ki to uske yahan shaam ki chai ka programme banaya gaya. Uske ghar ka rasta ya uska ghar kisi Kashmir movie se kam na tha. Jharne ke oopar bana lakdi ka toota hua pul kisi tarah se paar kar uske ghar pahunche. Chai, nashta, akhrot sab laga hua tha. Aap kitna bhi ghoom le pr jab tak gaon jaa kar us jagah ke logon ke saath unka khana nahin khaya tab tak aap asli mein vah jagah nahin ghoomen hain. Driver ka gaon dekh ke pata chala asli Kashmiri rahen sahen aur unki takleefe. Unke bachcho ne utsah mein humare saath kuch selfiyan li aur hum vaapis Srinagar aa gaye. Agle din pahelgaon jaana tha.
Subah jaldi hi pahalgaon ke liye nikal gaye. Srinagar se nikle to pahle raste se hi bat khareede. Yahan vishv prasiddh Kashmir willow ke bat milte hain. Halanki ye raasta kesar ki kheti ke liye mashhoor hai pr is samay sarso bhi kaafi khoobsurat lag rahi thi. Sarso ki kheti bhi gazab hi hai, maidanon mein alag sundarta bikherti hai aur pahadon mein alag. Pahlagam pahunch kar naashta kia aur seedhe ghodon pr baith gaye. Kaafi saare view points dekhe. Jaise pahalgaon valley, denno valley, dabyan, kangmarg. Sabse khoobsurat shayad Baisaran hi tha. Ek bada maidan aur charon taraf baraf se dhake oonche pahad. Log isko mini Switzerland kahte hain par main isko Kashmir hi kahunga. Yahan chai, pakaude khane ka maza hi alag tha. In saare view points se zyada khoobsurat magar ghodon ka rasta tha. Deodar aur cheed ke ghane jangal aur anginat jharne. Na jaane koi movie chal rahi thi ya scenery yahi samajh nahin aa raha tha. Sab dekh kar vaapis aaye, lunch kia aur fr Aru valley gaye. Khoobsurati vahan bhi barabar ki hi thi. Yahin rah jaane ka man kar raha tha. Roz subah isi drishya ke saamne aankh khule to zindagi kitni haseen ho jaayegi na? vahan se nikle betaab valley ke liye. Ye vo drishya the jo dimag se jaane ka naam hi nahin lete hain. Raat tak Srinagar vaapis aa gaye.
Aaj Srinagar mein aakhiri din tha. Araam se uthe, Lunch karne Hotel Lalit gaye. Shaam ko Srinagar ka lal Chawk, Polo view bazar ghoomen.
Kashmir chodne ka bilkul man nahin kar raha tha. Subah jaldi uth kar main BSF Campus mein cycle chalata raha. Kashmir aisa tha jaise bachpan mein khela ghar ghar ya jaise kisi apne bahut kareebi ke paas aa jaana. Kahin se bhi lautna bahut bhaari hota hai. Kashmir se bhi main laut to raha tha pr aisa lag raha tha ki mera ek hissa jaise vahin choot raha hai. Main apne saath apne dil mein poora Kashmir le aaya tha, Jannat shabd ka sahi arth samjh aa gaya tha. Apni is ghazal ke saath maine vaapis lautne ki flight pakdi
Ruk ruk ke mil rahi hai ye kis jahan ki sair
saare jahan ki sair hai hindustaan ki sair
Aisa laga ki jaise tere kooche se gujre
karne jab hum gaye the us gulistan ki sair
Ye ghoomavdar raste oopar se baraf aur
karke aa rahe ho jaise rakeeb ke makan ki sair
Ye jharne, ye jheelen, ye nadiyan, ye pahad
ye zameen ki sair hai ya aasman ki sair
Har ek jagah milegi nai suabah nai shaam
karle yahan ki sair ya karle vahan ki sair
In haseen vadiyon mein Jannat naseeb hai
gam nahin, ho bhi jaye jo kabristan ki sair
Yar yahan se bhi chale jayenge hum aaj
jaane kab milegi ab naye jahan ki sair
