Have you ever wondered which is the holiest city in India? "Mahadev ki Nagri" or "Banaras". I remember visiting Banaras every summer or winter vacation (during my school days) at my Nani place. People get stuck in big cities in their career and personal goals, that they tend to forget the charm and beauty of the small cities. After 8 long years, I made a visit to Banaras. I visited again with my parents and this time, the experience was completely different. I never considered Banaras as a place where one can enjoy or have a soulful experience. In my memories, it was more of a summer vacation spot for me and my brother. But this time, it was different. Having heard stories of the historical significance of the holy city from my mother, and her wish to go to Banaras for a short vacation rather than beaches or hill stations, I decided to take my parents to the holy city for a short yet impactful 3 days trip to Banaras. Though not as a summer/winter vacation but to explore the city.
Our train arrived at 8am in Deen Dayal Upadhyay Junction (formerly known as Mughalsarai Junction), post which we started our journey towards the spiritual capital of India- Banaras. It was a day before the Maha Shivratri and the atmosphere here was lively. We stayed at Jaipuria Dharamshala near the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. The first thing that came into my mind was "Malaiyo", the speciality sweet dish which one would find only in Banaras, and that too only during winters. Recalled those childhood days when we used to enjoy the dish whenever we visited the city during winters.
We were able to get the darshan on the first day itself. We knew there would be no place to stand near the temple on the next day, which was Maha Shivratri. Due to strict security measures, no one is allowed to take cameras or mobile phones inside the grand temple. Though some people did bypass the rules and were able to enter with mobile phones and cameras. We were the abiding ones. It took us an hour to get the darshan, which was quite intense but overall was a pleasant experience.
Our next stop was Banaras Hindu University (BHU) campus. The campus is quite serene and if someone wants to spend peaceful time with the nature in Banaras, this is the place to go. We headed straight to the Vishwanath temple, which is right inside the BHU campus. Of course, it draws inspiration from the Kashi Vishwanath temple but it is beautiful in its own.
Next stop in our temple hopping day was the "Tulsi Manas" Mandir. One of the important temples of Banaras, it is dedicated to Lord Ram. It is said that the entire Ramayana was re-written here for the future generations to understand the Epic better. The entire Ram Charitramanas is inscribed on the inner walls of the temple. And of course, accompanied by quite serene and a peaceful surrounding.
Next stop was Sankat Mochan temple. This temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Another important temple of Banaras which has a historical significance, is sacred, where Tulsidas Ji wrote the Hanuman Chalisa. Notable thing about the temple is the quality of prasad (laddu) inside the temple, its lip smacking to say the least. Cameras and mobile phones are not allowed inside the temple. Was also expecting loads of monkeys here but strangely could not find even one.
Last temple on our radar was Maa Durga mandir also known as Durga Kund Mandir. It was almost 6 pm by the time our temple hopping was done.
Last but not the least, we headed to Assi ghat for the Ganga Arti. Witnessing the Ganga arti in Banaras is truly mesmerizing. The crowd and atmosphere was enough to get you involved completely in the religious ceremony. Your mind, body and soul, all three gets completely relaxed after witnessing such a spectacular event. Having witnessed the Ganga arti in Rishikesh and Haridwar, the one at Banaras is a bit different but nothing less.
The day started with loads of temple hopping and ended with a soulful experience on the banks of river Ganga.
Maha Shivratri
Woke up early at 5am to witness the 'bheed' near Kashi Vishwanath temple and of course, for the sunrise at Dasaswamedh ghat. And could see a line 5 kms from the temple entrance. Went ahead for the sunrise at Dasaswamedh ghat, pilgrims were bathing and making their way towards the temple. It was such a beautiful morning at Banaras.
After witnessing the sunrise on the banks of Ganga, I went back and got myself ready for the Maha Shivratri puja. All the temples were beautifully decorated with flowers and what not. Pilgrims were offering prayers in large numbers.
After offering prayers, we enjoyed the "Malaiyo" and the famous "Kachori Sabzi" of Banaras. In the late afternoon, we visited the "Kaal Bhairav" Mandir, another historically significant temple.
Since it was Maha Shivratri, the devotees recreated the wedding scene of Shiva and Parvati in the evening. They emulated the look of different holy gods from the our Hindu culture. The procession ("Baraat") was carried on during the whole of evening, devotees were dancing in loud music, "bhaang", and engulfed in the devotion of Lord Shiva.
The last day in the holy city. It started with a quick darshan at Kashi Vishwanath temple in the early morning.
Later during the day, we visited NaMo ghat, which has become a latest tourist spot for the pilgrims. It has a floating CNG station for CNG boats to make Ganga pollution free. Few parts (an open air theatre as well..wooh) of the ghat was still under development, but what caught my attention was the cleanliness of the ghat. It was a well maintained one. Hoping to visit this place again once its fully developed.
The last part of the trip was the boat ride in Ganga. This is a must when you visit Banaras. Exploring different ghats while boating is a mesmerizing experience, which one cannot afford to miss, when in Banaras. We started from "Gaay" ghat, went all the way through "Manikarnika" and Dasaswamedh ghats. Those 1-1.5 hour boat ride, travelling through various ghats and the guide making you aware of the historical significance of each ghat is so pleasing, that you just end up being in love with the place altogether.
It was the end of our short yet impactful trip. There is more to this place, it has its culture in place, it has its own charm, which no other city can match. Will make sure the following pointers on my next visit:
1. To explore various ghats on foot
2. To explore the local culture and city on foot (not just temple hopping)
3. To spend sometime on each ghat and just observing the beauty of Ganga
4. Sarnath
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