Climbing upwards to the snow area again.
All the way at 4665m now.IMG_1349
And then the road turned completely shit, just before the border
This is the last photos I have from Tajikistan, I did take more, but long story short, the Tajik border guards deleted my photos and RIPED out my information page of my passport. Why? because I tried to take a photo of the couple I was traveling with near the border. They asked 200 USD to not delete the photo (that they had already deleted). We got stuck 8 hours in a TINY office with 3 aggressive and armed military guards. In the end they took my head torch and cooking stove, but that was after they ripped my passport off.
We finally arrived at the Kyrgyzstan border at about 2am, and long after the border had closed for the day. After A LOT of discussion and telling what happened on the Tajik border they let us trough. The Kyrgyzstan border guards were super friendly and they explained it was not the first time they have had foreign tourist arriving with a broken passport from the Tajik border.
The first settlement you reach in Kyrgyzstan is tiny place of Sary Tash.
Sary Tash is a major crossroad in this part of the world, head south and you reach Tajikistan, head east and you reach China and head north to Osh in Kyrgyzstan.
All within a few hours.
The major crossroad Sary Tash, probaly the village with the best view in the world? The Pamir Highway is just in the back.
The major crossroad Sary Tash, probably the village with the best view in the world? The Pamir Highway is just in the back.pamir_highway
Sary Tash is a village that offers no more than 4 (!) guesthouses. The Scenery surrounding the village don’t disappoint either. We ended up spending a day in Sary Tash since we were all tired after the Tajik border and the locals explained that a horrible snow storm was on the way. The storm lasted for two days, so for two days were we stuck inside drinking tea and just resting. But when the storm finally calmed down, the view was even more spectacular than before the storm.pamir_highwaypamir_highwaypamir_highway
The pass that you have to climb towards China.
Additional Information about the Pamir Highway.
Permit and Registration.
You will need to have a GBAO permit to travel trough the Wakhan Valley and later on the Pamir highway.
The permit was checked twice by local police while staying in Murghab and in one random checkpoint on the way to the border. The first thing the border guards also asked for was the permit.
There are NO ATMs on this part of the trip, the first ATM you will reach when heading north to Kyrgyzstan is in OSH, and Khorugh if heading west.
But there was people offering money changing from USD and Euro in Murghab. You can also pay the driver, guesthouses, and food in Murghab with Chinese money, USD and Euro.
There are at least 4 guesthouses, 2 hotels and even a few homestay in Murghab.
I paid 15USD for a guesthouse with HOT shower, breakfast, and dinner.
This blog was originally published on 'Unusual Traveler'